2017 F3 (SE) Nanny OFF performance?

[Wildrice]

With nanny mode engaged, I cannot spin tire on F3-S SE (Daytona 500) regardless of how much throttle I give it off the line. (Straight line or otherwise.) ~ Are you implying spinning requires disengagement of nanny?
(And not that I want to smoke a tire or anything. Just looking for more acceleration and as it stands now, tires never slip noticeably, not even a chirp lol.)

I've noticed that if I'm on blacktop I can spin the rear tire with ease. If I'm on sold clean concrete I don't spin either. I've never checked the concrete spot--I usually judge the spinning via the tire squealing sound. Maybe it spun a little but I didn't hear or feel it. 2015 F3's.
Darrell
Check the air pressure in the rear tire--if it's low--traction will occur.

[SpyDerSts]

2016 F3S SE. already put a new rear tire on mine @ 4300 miles since I keep grinnin an spinnin!!! I've managed to figure out how to spin the tire on 120*degree curves doin better than 15mph or more over the limit for the curves....GRINNIN AN SPINNIN I can do some serious (S) curve hole shots too if I hit the gas at the appropriate times. These sumbeetchez are sure fun as hell if ya know how to handle em

[TRLBLZR1]

Mine won't spin the rear tire either. I'll be doing one of the computer upgrades once we get a few real reviews.

Good to know I"m not the only one. On that note:
Anyone have a quick-fix solution to disable the passenger seat sensor?

I have a Corbin seat pack on the back. Not much weight, but it's securely attached and pushing down/tight against second/rear seat. (I think there may be enough downward pressure so that it's triggering the safety over-ride.) Also wondering what effect unplugging the sensor would have on system.

~I may start another thread about this for better visibility.

[Firefly]

Good to know I"m not the only one. On that note:
Anyone have a quick-fix solution to disable the passenger seat sensor?

I have a Corbin seat pack on the back. Not much weight, but it's securely attached and pushing down/tight against second/rear seat. (I think there may be enough downward pressure so that it's triggering the safety over-ride.) Also wondering what effect unplugging the sensor would have on system.

~I may start another thread about this for better visibility.

YES... that pack on the rear seat can make all the difference in the world. You can simply unplug the seat switch to disable it.

[TRLBLZR1]

YES... that pack on the rear seat can make all the difference in the world. You can simply unplug the seat switch to disable it.

Thank you!.... Will be trying that later this week. (Was concerned whether disconnecting could produce adverse consequences like error codes etc.)

I have to get a photo of the pack on this bike. It's a FANTASTIC setup that looks like it was designed for this machine. OEM should be branding and selling this pack. It's that good!

OOPS: Not Corbin, its a CorTech: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009RIG4UQ
I don't use the underneath pad, and also modified how I use the straps to connect pack. Have to get some photos up here for others. Quick connects/detaches like it was made for this machine.

71NpZzGw9PL._SL1001_.jpg

[Peter Aawen]

Why not just try it out by taking the seat pack off before trying to disable the switch?

I reckon I recall someone having 'limp home' issues or at least warnings & codes from leaving the passenger seat unplugged, & don't those bobber kits have a special attachment to use in order to bypass that switch?

So surely it's gonna be a whole lot easier & quicker (& cheaper too?!?) just to take the seat pack off & make sure that IS your issue before you spend any time or effort (or $$) on trying to bypass something that may not even be involved?!?

[TRLBLZR1]

Why not just try it out by taking the seat pack off before trying to disable the switch?

I reckon I recall someone having 'limp home' issues or at least warnings & codes from leaving the passenger seat unplugged, & don't those bobber kits have a special attachment to use in order to bypass that switch?

So surely it's gonna be a whole lot easier & quicker (& cheaper too?!?) just to take the seat pack off & make sure that IS your issue before you spend any time or effort (or $$) on trying to bypass something that may not even be involved?!?

Good point. ~ Never thought to look at the bobber kit schematics. I do know that with the Cortech securely attached, the seat sits flush. It does not sit flush otherwise.

[TRLBLZR1]

Haven't pulled the seat (pack) yet to see if pack has enough downward pressure to effect passenger seat safety switch. Been busy @ work, however just an update on F3-S SE performance:
Seems to be temps that have a huge effect on this machine in stock form. Surprised at how much difference there is on a 75 degree dry day vs. a 85+ degree humid day. Night and day difference! (Tire gets a bit loose and machine is a completely different animal in cooler dryer air. ~ Knew this would be the case, just didn't expect such a dramatic difference @ low rpm's when accelerating from a stop!

[monkeyboymorton]

The switch does only activate at a certain weight. My Oxford bag doesn't activate it and that has a fair bit of weight in at times. The shop manual doesn't specify a weight and the only way to tell would be with BUDS connected as it will show in the software.

If it is activating why not just put a fairly strong empty tin can (tuna maybe) over it and then fit the seat? unless the weight on the seat can deform the can the switch won't get depressed. Also a good way to see if your pack is putting sufficient weight on the seat to cause it to activate. May need some adaption of the tin!!

My gut instinct is it's not being activated by your pack.

[Bob Denman]

...Or remove the switch from it's intended location, and place it where nothing can bump the actuator?

[Firefly]

The switch does only activate at a certain weight. My Oxford bag doesn't activate it and that has a fair bit of weight in at times. The shop manual doesn't specify a weight and the only way to tell would be with BUDS connected as it will show in the software.

If it is activating why not just put a fairly strong empty tin can (tuna maybe) over it and then fit the seat? unless the weight on the seat can deform the can the switch won't get depressed. Also a good way to see if your pack is putting sufficient weight on the seat to cause it to activate. May need some adaption of the tin!!

My gut instinct is it's not being activated by your pack.

You can pop the rear seat off and unplug the sensor in 30 seconds... that's all that is needed to disable it.

[TRLBLZR1]

You can pop the rear seat off and unplug the sensor in 30 seconds... that's all that is needed to disable it.

And no ECM error codes to worry about unplugged?

[Firefly]

And no ECM error codes to worry about unplugged?

Nope.. seems the switch is NO (normally open).

[TRLBLZR1]

Nope.. seems the switch is NO (normally open).

Fabulous. Been nearly a week since I've been on a "Spida-Spin." Next time I get a few hours off, that connector is getting pulled.

[Bob Denman]

We'll be watching for "Tire Smoke & Wide Grins!"

[TRLBLZR1]

We'll be watching for "Tire Smoke & Wide Grins!"

(No real interest in burning up tires though. Just too expensive and PITA to replace.) Plus, I was always worried about the machine getting away from me. Was the wheelie thing (and the twisties) that I was into
(Had one accident in all my years on sportbikes/GSXR's, and that accident was the result of a 1100cc 100 mph wheelie that "went bad" due to circumstances beyond my control.)

Was riding with someone who did something really stupid/unexpected. We both paid the price..... "Live & Learn." ~ One reason I'm now on 3 wheels. Wheelie days are long gone by and I don't want to be tempted.
(Don't want to be tempted to wear off the edges of my shoes in the high speed s-curves either.) Just want to have a little extra fun now and then.

[TRLBLZR1]

Well, pulling the plug didn't really work..... If it did, mine is a slug.....

Here's what happened with sensor disconnected:
Constant warning on dash (big letters scrolling) that passenger seat switch is defective. (when unplugged)
And the yellow warning traction/slip indicator lamp was always on & solidly lit.

Think I need to either build a "cup" to keep seat from hitting switch. (Or cut the nipple off the underside of the seat which hits the big button-switch.) Anybody know the part number for the bypass switch used for the "bobtail kit?'

[Peter Aawen]

Is there anywhere under the seat where you can tuck the (taken off the seat base) switch arrangement so it can't be activated?!?

My RT has a little space under the seat where I can upend the switch thingie once it's dosconnected from the seat, and that way avoid any chance of the switch activating altho it still remains connected & (theoretically) operational.....

Cheers

[TRLBLZR1]

Is there anywhere under the seat where you can tuck the (taken off the seat base) switch arrangement so it can't be activated?!?

My RT has a little space under the seat where I can upend the switch thingie once it's dosconnected from the seat, and that way avoid any chance of the switch activating altho it still remains connected & (theoretically) operational.....

Cheers

Hi Peter;

Was thinking about that. And It may be possible to flip switch upside down or possibly mount the switch so that the mount is beneath the plastic (instead of on top) thus lowering it's profile. For the time being, I rolled up a sponge and tucked it under the seat thus applying more upward pressure. That extra pressure did seem to make a difference on my way home from work this evening lol. Have to watch gauges closely next time with sponge in place. ~ Because I don't recall seeing the anti-slip flashing when accelerating out of a corner with tire getting a touch loose. (Maybe I just didn't see it flashing. Also, the cooler evening air definitely makes a difference in power delivery.)

As for the switch: I'm surprised that it's got such a weak spring..... Way too light for an engineering/design standpoint. About 6oz. in a soda can (placed on top of it) would be enough to activate it.

I'd bet that one of the 3 wires could be disconnected from the switch thus achieving a bypass. The question is, which one? I think the 3 colors were red, blue & green. Have to take another peek.
Anyone know?????

[TRLBLZR1]

Finally got nanny anti-slip to remain disengaged, but doesn't quite give the expected results.
(LCD indicator remains on and so does the anti-slip yellow indicator on speedo. So far, so good.....)

Tires on F3-S possibly a bit too sticky for wheel slip, tire pressure just right, or maybe gearing/ECM programming?.... Tires still don't want to break loose. Instead, what I'm able to achieve (even hanging off side of seat/bars with full-on throttle from dead stop & handlebars turned a little) is: Inside front wheel comes off ground a few inches without nanny kicking in, BUT seldom is there any tire spin/slip. ~ Just like carbide picks/sticky track & carbide runners on a snowmobile. She accelerates hard, but the rear tire sticks like glue. I think I'd prefer another tooth (or two) on the rear sprocket! (I'm sure I'd have no problems spinning rear with a manual clutch, but not on this SE.)

People speak poorly of the stock tires. But the ones on this bike are very GOOD imo. (Or is it the suspension IDK?)
That being said: A little predictable tire-slip would kick the rear out a bit and keep front inner tire/wheel down. (Once in a while it would be fun to counter-steer. ~ @ 200 lbs., I just can't typically achieve this with the stock setup on this Daytona SE.)

FWIW: With traction control off, I have a Spyder that does "Spawheelies" instead of breaking traction & counter-steering lol.
I refuse to hold brake & throttle at same time to build power at a stop. (No interest in abusing the machine like that. Although maybe that's what it takes on the 2017 SE?)

[Pirate looks at --]

My machine (Daytona 500 F3-S SE) is supposed to have 115 hp. The BRP videos show it "smoking" tires on the track during counter-steering maneuvers. Really? LOL!
(If I really tried/wanted to, I think I could make more noise with the tires using the brakes than the throttle lol/col.)

It does. By turning off the Nanny I assume that you meant putting it in sport mode, as that does not turn off the Nanny it just sedated her a bit. If in sport mode, you can't spin the tire, then you need to get it to a dealer, there is something wrong with your machine, or yiour definition of "full throttle". This is a no brained and with a full rapid twist of the throttle you can burn a hole in that rear tire. I have done it on the Daytone numerous times.

[TRLBLZR1]

It does. By turning off the Nanny I assume that you meant putting it in sport mode, as that does not turn off the Nanny it just sedated her a bit. If in sport mode, you can't spin the tire, then you need to get it to a dealer, there is something wrong with your machine, or yiour definition of "full throttle". This is a no brained and with a full rapid twist of the throttle you can burn a hole in that rear tire. I have done it on the Daytone numerous times.

That's what I keep thinking (back to dealer thing)..... Full stop and crack throttle to 100%.... Takes off, but won't spin rear. Once in a while when turning onto side road etc. I can get some (only a little) wheel slip when going to full throttle in apex of turn. (1'st gear) Other than that, she feels like she's a bit restricted. (Only at lower rpm's and that's why I thought maybe gearing.)

Note: On HOT pavement on COOL/DRY days, she's more likely to spin/chirp a little, but even then not predictably. (And at ~200 lbs. I don't see it being a "mass" issue.)

[Thrashb12]

Just got my 2015 F3s SM6 but my problem is not spinning the tire on spirited acceleration.

Mike in NH

[pauly1]

Road way surface does affect wheel spun ability. My '15 F3S will spin at will. I demo rode a '17 F3 LTD with the RT-sized sprocket and it was noticeably poorer in acceleration. Check your rear sprocket: it should be nearly the same size as the rim. The switch under the rear seat activated very easily: it is not an engineering thing as you implied. BRP staff was very deliberate in the design. And finally, weight matters: more weight changes the grab of the rear tire. And I call vouch for Blueknight RT wheel spin although he doesn't run stock tires.

Wayne

P.s.: my wife's ST LTD will lay a longer strip than my F3S.

[Dennis in Lodi]

My Flashed 2016 F3L has the larger 89 tooth sprocket and shares the same get up and go as the F3S. With the ECU flash the nanny is tamed even more than it was stock as I can lay down 30' to 50' of rubber with just a little power up. Once these Spyders get loose the free spin gets kind of excessive with not much forward motion. Thin line between excessive and a chirp on take off. Takes a little practice.

Road way surface does affect wheel spun ability. My '15 F3S will spin at will. I demo rode a '17 F3 LTD with the RT-sized sprocket and it was noticeably poorer in acceleration. Check your rear sprocket: it should be nearly the same size as the rim. The switch under the rear seat activated very easily: it is not an engineering thing as you implied. BRP staff was very deliberate in the design. And finally, weight matters: more weight changes the grab of the rear tire. And I call vouch for Blueknight RT wheel spin although he doesn't run stock tires.

Wayne

P.s.: my wife's ST LTD will lay a longer strip than my F3S.