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  1. #51
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    Question Sprockets.....

    Last post got me to thinking about sprockets.
    Wondering why it's not feasible to just drop a tooth on the front.

    Speedo not effected.
    Rev limiter controlled by RPM's.
    Wheel slip presumably measured/compared via 3 sensors on each tire & an accelerometer.
    Only difference I would presume is slightly higher automatic downshifting on the SE.

    Anyone tried this? Why wouldn't this work?
    🏁🏁 "Live Free Or Die" 🏁🏁

  2. #52
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    I've got a new 2017 F3-S Daytona and I can't get the rear wheel to break loose for anything on dry pavement. This factory tire is stiiiiicky. It isn't under powered, 0-100% throttle causes a rocket like take off. But that tire just won't give. If I get some lateral forces on it, I can get it to swing out left or right, but going in a straight line it just hunkers down and grips.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willt View Post
    I've got a new 2017 F3-S Daytona and I can't get the rear wheel to break loose for anything on dry pavement. This factory tire is stiiiiicky. It isn't under powered, 0-100% throttle causes a rocket like take off. But that tire just won't give. If I get some lateral forces on it, I can get it to swing out left or right, but going in a straight line it just hunkers down and grips.
    Assuming it's an SE (paddle shift) like mine?
    Sending mine out for ECU reprogramming. Because on the few occasions I'd like the tire to slip and it doesn't.... Result is inside wheel coming up off ground. More dangerous than slip IMO. (I'm not into wasting tires, but once in a while, being able to reliably get a little counter-steering during full acceleration from stop into a corner [like the ads show] would be fun. ) ~ Sometimes I think I should have gone with the clutch version.
    Last edited by TRLBLZR1; 09-11-2017 at 02:35 PM.
    🏁🏁 "Live Free Or Die" 🏁🏁

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRLBLZR1 View Post
    Assuming it's an SE (paddle shift) like mine?
    Sending mine out for ECU reprogramming. Because on the few occasions I'd like the tire to slip and it doesn't.... Result is inside wheel coming up off ground. More dangerous than slip IMO. (I'm not into wasting tires, but once in a while, being able to reliably get a little counter-steering during full acceleration from stop into a corner [like the ads show] would be fun. ) ~ Sometimes I think I should have gone with the clutch version.
    Correct, SE. Mine will slip around a corner, just zero slip in a straight line. As soon as lateral forces are involved the rear will slide out about a foot or so. First time it did it, it felt like the rear end was on casters and was very odd. Now I come to expect it. This is all with "sport mode" off, all the nannies engaged. I've only had a front wheel lift once so far, and that was a rolling (no throttle) 90 degree turn at about 20 MPH. Inside tire lifted just enough to have no contact and see a little bit of sunlight under the rubber, then I applied a lot of throttle, the rear shifted an inch or so, front came down, and off I went.

    My last Spyder was a 2010 RSS and this new F3 is way more enjoyable to ride and the nannies are way better tuned for actual street riding. The 2010 nannies would constantly get in the way causing power dropouts at the most annoying of times. More often actually making certain situations a little more dangerous because not only was I dealing with the situation, I was dealing with the bike handling unpredictably.
    Last edited by Willt; 09-12-2017 at 10:03 AM.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willt View Post
    Correct, SE. Mine will slip around a corner, just zero slip in a straight line. As soon as lateral forces are involved the rear will slide out about a foot or so. First time it did it, it felt like the rear end was on casters and was very odd. Now I come to expect it. This is all with "sport mode" off, all the nannies engaged. I've only had a front wheel lift once so far, and that was a rolling (no throttle) 90 degree turn at about 20 MPH. Inside tire lifted just enough to have no contact and see a little bit of sunlight under the rubber, then I applied a lot of throttle, the rear shifted an inch or so, front came down, and off I went.

    My last Spyder was a 2010 RSS and this new F3 is way more enjoyable to ride and the nannies are way better tuned for actual street riding. The 2010 nannies would constantly get in the way causing power dropouts at the most annoying of times. More often actually making certain situations a little more dangerous because not only was I dealing with the situation, I was dealing with the bike handling unpredictably.
    I can't rely on any spin from stop on even on turn (nanny on or off)..... (Maybe with damp/wet tire, but that's about it.) More dangerous IMO when it won't spin on turn/hard acceleration from dead stop and you expect it to. Result is: Instead of rear tire slide at , you end up with inside front wheel lift instead and backing off the throttle. (instead of being able to counter-steer) Hate when that happens and others are watching... (I know what they're thinking lol.)
    🏁🏁 "Live Free Or Die" 🏁🏁

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