Results 1 to 22 of 22
  1. #1
    Active Member RTman10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Nottingham UK
    Posts
    100
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default THEY ALL. CLUNK BUT WHY

    So far as I know and definately my 17 RT Limited all make a loud clunk when engaging first or reverse from neutral. I had hoped after years of this on a BMW I would have it no more. But what is it. Is it the gearbox, the drive chain or even the clutch. If I knew I could teach myself to forget it, maybe.

  2. #2
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Australia; Sth Aust, Adelaide Hills
    Posts
    9,650
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    It's just that the engine side components are spinning & the wheel/trans side components are stopped, so when you 'engage' them via the clutch, they clunk! If the oil is cold & not fully circulating yet, the clunk will be louder & heavier than it will if you warm things up for a bit longer first, but it's still gonna have some clunk there regardless!

    To a greater or lesser degree, exactly the same thing applies to your car, any other motorcycle or motor vehicle with a clutch & transmission, & pretty much anything where moving or rotating machinery on one side hasta engage with stationary machinery on the other side.... they all clunk, some loudly &/or heavily, some quietly or gently, & some isolate the driver/passengers from said clunk better, but they still ALL do it! Would you be prepared to add another couple of thousand $$ cost & some more pounds of fuel & power sapping weight for BRP to attempt to engineer it out?? No vehicle manufacturer has managed to do that completely yet, but I guess eventually someone's gotta be first!

    Me, I know the clunk isn't hurting anything, in fact, it's hardly there if I warm things up for a few minutes before engaging a gear, and besides, it's significantly less than some of the clunks I've hadta live with on some of the vehicles (& boats) I've driven over the years, and I'm really not prepared to pay any more $$ for what is in the end, such a meaningless gain! So I'll live with it!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-18-2017 at 03:49 AM.

  3. #3
    Active Member RTman10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Nottingham UK
    Posts
    100
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    So really it's a combination of everything that's not spinning engaging with them that are. Obvious when you think about it. Will just have to be a little more patient first thing in the morning.

  4. #4
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Australia; Sth Aust, Adelaide Hills
    Posts
    9,650
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RTman10 View Post
    So really it's a combination of everything that's not spinning engaging with them that are. .....
    That's it! But do remember, while warming everything up properly reduces the clunk, it's still gonna be there to some degree, & you are always going to have some clunk.... hopefully not too much that it makes you want to take an axe to it!!

    I do recall driving one (former) workboat that I got to use a fair bit that clunked so much on engaging the prop EVERY bloody time that it really drove me mad.... Sadly, it eventually had a slight accident & sunk - but you didn't hear that here!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-18-2017 at 08:09 AM.

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Buckeye Bleau's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Canton, Ohio
    Posts
    1,143
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Me, I know the clunk isn't hurting anything, in fact, it's hardly there if I warm things up for a few minutes before engaging a gear, and besides, it's significantly less than some of the clunks I've hadta live with on some of the vehicles (& boats) I've driven over the years, and I'm really not prepared to pay any more $$ for what is in the end, such a meaningless gain! So I'll live with it! [/QUOTE]

    Oh you are such a funny person! People on here have hissy fits because they have to wait 10 seconds after turning on the key to start the Byke, now you want them to wait 2 minutes in order to minimize the clunk? That is rich very rich, my friend!

    Joe
    U.S. Army Viet Nam Era Vet
    2013 Spyder RT-L, Black Currant
    Trunk mount dual SS flag holder
    TricLed foam hand grips (awesome)
    Chromed Soaring Eagle License Holder
    Utopia Deluxe driver backrest
    LED fender lighting
    Fast Flash LED brake light
    Spyder Pops LED/skid plate

  6. #6
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Not Here
    Posts
    92,464
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    If you can't accept the "mechanical experience": you always have your car...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  7. #7
    Active Member RTman10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Nottingham UK
    Posts
    100
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Hope I haven't started a war. I promise just to bang it in and zoom off.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Not Here
    Posts
    92,464
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    That's how it's done!
    Just think of it as a chance to knock all of the rust off of the gears!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  9. #9
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    San Diego, CA.
    Posts
    31,097
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default Try this....

    There you have it but.....Leave the spyder in gear when you shut it off. Then start it up in gear ( pull in the clutch and start on the SM and apply the brake and start the SE) and you will avoid the clunking...but now you can not idle to warm up or do much other than ryde off. It does seem to be more noticeable in the big twins and singles but you get used to it and all other gears are smooth. Do any of you remember un-syncronized gear boxes...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  10. #10
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    North Central Florida
    Posts
    2,486
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RTman10 View Post
    So really it's a combination of everything that's not spinning engaging with them that are. Obvious when you think about it. Will just have to be a little more patient first thing in the morning.
    The situation is aggravated by the fluid coupling effect in a wet clutch.......which is more pronounced when the oil is cold.

  11. #11
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    North Central Florida
    Posts
    2,486
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    Do any of you remember un-syncronized gear boxes...
    Most all motorcycles have "un-syncronized", constant mesh gears.
    From this discussion, I assume that applies to the Spyders too.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Fort Mill, SC
    Posts
    1,951
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Video

    Here's a video explaining how the constant mess works. Simple and to the point.
    2011 RTS (Sold to a very nice lady)
    1998 Honda Valkyrie
    2006 Mustang GT. Varooooom!
    US Navy Veteran
    SC Law Enforcement Boat Captain
    CNC Machine Service Technician
    President: Rolling Thunder SC1
    Member: Disabled American Veterans, Rock Hill, SC
    Member: American Legion
    Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it!

  13. #13
    Active Member Tyris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    262
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aawen View Post
    It's just that the engine side components are spinning & the wheel/trans side components are stopped, so when you 'engage' them via the clutch, they clunk! If the oil is cold & not fully circulating yet, the clunk will be louder & heavier than it will if you warm things up for a bit longer first, but it's still gonna have some clunk there regardless!

    To a greater or lesser degree, exactly the same thing applies to your car, any other motorcycle or motor vehicle with a clutch & transmission, & pretty much anything where moving or rotating machinery on one side hasta engage with stationary machinery on the other side.... they all clunk, some loudly &/or heavily, some quietly or gently, & some isolate the driver/passengers from said clunk better, but they still ALL do it! Would you be prepared to add another couple of thousand $$ cost & some more pounds of fuel & power sapping weight for BRP to attempt to engineer it out?? No vehicle manufacturer has managed to do that completely yet, but I guess eventually someone's gotta be first!

    Me, I know the clunk isn't hurting anything, in fact, it's hardly there if I warm things up for a few minutes before engaging a gear, and besides, it's significantly less than some of the clunks I've hadta live with on some of the vehicles (& boats) I've driven over the years, and I'm really not prepared to pay any more $$ for what is in the end, such a meaningless gain! So I'll live with it!

    Should actually let engine run a bit before engaging reverse?
    2016 RT Limited , Black

  14. #14
    Invalid Emails
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    957
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aawen View Post
    To a greater or lesser degree, exactly the same thing applies to your car, any other motorcycle or motor vehicle with a clutch & transmission, & pretty much anything where moving or rotating machinery on one side hasta engage with stationary machinery on the other side.... they all clunk, some loudly &/or heavily, some quietly or gently, & some isolate the driver/passengers from said clunk better, but they still ALL do it!
    I disagree. Neither my '99 F-150 (manual) nor my wifey's 2016 Hyundai Accent 'clunk'. They shift in and out of gear silently and easily. Most cars and light trucks have synchro gears that match the speed of the two gears involved. That usually stops the clunking unless you shift too quickly. Motorcycles tend to have straight-cut gears instead of helical-cut gears and that adds to the clunk you hear as they do not engage as easily. And not all transmissions have synchros on every gear. Typically, first and reverse do not which may be why the clunk is loudest on those two.

  15. #15
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    North Central Florida
    Posts
    2,486
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RinconRyder View Post
    Motorcycles tend to have straight-cut gears instead of helical-cut gears and that adds to the clunk you hear as they do not engage as easily.
    Sure they do. The gears are "engaged" all the time.
    See above post about "constant mesh" transmissions.

  16. #16
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    North Central Florida
    Posts
    2,486
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tyris View Post
    Should actually let engine run a bit before engaging reverse?
    Depends on what you mean by "a bit".

    It is good to let things warm up for a minute or so but beyond that you are just wasting gas.

  17. #17
    Active Member Dmetcalf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    451
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default The clunk my Spyder has is nothing compared to my H-D

    My Harley had a difinate and pronounced "clunk" when dropping it in gear. I would allow it to warm up then even pull in the clutch and count to 5 (sometimes 3) and it would clunk ..!

  18. #18
    Active Member RTman10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Nottingham UK
    Posts
    100
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I would allow it to warm up then even pull in the clutch and count to 5 (sometimes 3) and it would clunk ..!

    Pull in the clutch (lever). Now that's a blast from the past. Don't want one of them again.

  19. #19
    Invalid Emails
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    957
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RTman10 View Post
    I would allow it to warm up then even pull in the clutch and count to 5 (sometimes 3) and it would clunk ..!

    Pull in the clutch (lever). Now that's a blast from the past. Don't want one of them again.
    Back in the old Goldwing days we had one, and only one, Hardley rider. More than once one of the Wings would ride beside her (yes, a little bitty female) when she shifted and the very loud CLUNK would make the Winger think his bike had broken.

  20. #20
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Hampton Roads, VA
    Posts
    436
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Leave in Neutral when you shut down

    In neutral the oil circulates through better (according to a BRP release). Warm up in neutral lessens the thud. BRP says there is no damage being done by the clunk.

  21. #21
    Very Active Member Fat Baxter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Central Alabama
    Posts
    527
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I too came over from BMW, so I was used to the same initial clunk.

    What I do not miss was the chattering upshift into third gear on my R1100RT ("they all do that"). Didn't do it on the downshift, though. I put up with that for the 73K miles I put on that bike. Always wondering if/when the tranny was going to drop out. But, "they all do that." And there never were any metallic bits in the tranny oil.

    I'm also used to different bits of Tupperware resonating at different revs and speeds, so the Spyder's drive belt harmonics didn't bother me. In fact, until someone mentioned it here in one of the threads, I didn't notice it at all.
    Last edited by Fat Baxter; 07-18-2017 at 11:24 PM.

  22. #22
    Active Member RTman10's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Nottingham UK
    Posts
    100
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Baxter View Post
    I too came over from BMW, so I was used to the same initial clunk.

    What I do not miss was the chattering upshift into third gear on my R1100RT ("they all do that"). Didn't do it on the downshift, though. I put up with that for the 73K miles I put on that bike. Always wondering if/when the tranny was going to drop out. But, "they all do that." And there never were any metallic bits in the tranny oil.

    I'm also used to different bits of Tupperware resonating at different revs and speeds, so the Spyder's drive belt harmonics didn't bother me. In fact, until someone mentioned it here in one of the threads, I didn't notice it at all.
    In fact, until someone mentioned it here in one of the threads, I didn't notice it at all.Thats done it, neither had I until NOW. Might help me forget about the clunk though.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •