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Another BajaRon Swaybar Question....
Still mulling over adding the BJR swaybar to my 2016 F3-T. I asked this question in another thread, but I think that it may have been buried, so I'm repeating it here:
Given the same radius turn, taken at the same speed, under the same circumstances, would a Spyder with the BajaRon sway bar installed require less leaning into the turn by the rider, than a "stock" Spyder without the BajaRon sway bar would (because the Spyder will dip/roll less to the outside)?
If so, would that mean that you could theoretically take the turn at a higher speed with the BajaRon sway bar, if you lean into the turn the same amount as without the swaybar? (I hope that my meaning is clear....)
Thanks!
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leaning is optional. I notice some people lean and others don't. As most have stated the BaJa Swaybar improves handling over all and most noticeable in the turns. I tend to say the BaJa swaybar helps you maintain your line in the tight twisties like you are on a rail. I have put the Baja swaybar on both my Spyders (RS and then my F3s). As mods go, it is pretty cheap and probably the best thing to do for ride quality. If you feel your Spyder is a little squirrely in the turns, then go for it.
I am contemplating trading up from a F3S to an F3T and I thought the T hand better shocks that the upgraded swaybar was not needed. I was hoping that I would not have to add one. But it sounds like you still need it.
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Active Member
I had 2 spyders a rts and a sts with Ron's swaybar. Don't really think I need it on my 2016 f3t
Paul
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by greybeard
I had 2 spyders a rts and a sts with Ron's swaybar. Don't really think I need it on my 2016 f3t
Paul
The NEED may not be as great but the improvement is still there. The F3 does handle far better stock but improvements are still available. The bar works very well on an F3.
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Very Active Member
Do it! Do it!! Do it!!! A couple weeks ago, I returned from a trip to the CO Rockies with my stock F3S. Had a blast and the machine worked just fine. I came back to SD to find the Deadwood Rally in progress, so I took my bike in to have Harvey install the new sway bar. Just 5 minutes, on the way home, and I could tell the difference. Stock, in a tight turn, if you needed a little more turn, the bike would start to dish out and nanny would "start to help". With the new sway bar, if you need a little more, you just TAKE IT and the bike responds! To me, it is more fun and SAFER. I'd recommend it to anyone. Just my $.02!
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Active Member
Can't Answer leaning question but....
Originally Posted by newbert
Still mulling over adding the BJR swaybar to my 2016 F3-T. I asked this question in another thread, but I think that it may have been buried, so I'm repeating it here:
Given the same radius turn, taken at the same speed, under the same circumstances, would a Spyder with the BajaRon sway bar installed require less leaning into the turn by the rider, than a "stock" Spyder without the BajaRon sway bar would (because the Spyder will dip/roll less to the outside)?
If so, would that mean that you could theoretically take the turn at a higher speed with the BajaRon sway bar, if you lean into the turn the same amount as without the swaybar? (I hope that my meaning is clear....)
Thanks!
I also wonder if I need a BajaRon sway bar....
We rode home from upstate NY Satutday, 500 plus miles and the first 300 was in in light to moderately heavy rain. The F3 handled superbly as did the wife's 2015 RT-S.
I have many question for F3 owners that I will be asking but first an observation on the handling of the F3.
With our 2013 RTL and our 2015 RTS we installed the BajaRon Sway Bar and had a laser alignment done and used JT'S Dual Fill to overcome the "squirrelly" handling of these Spyders. I found my F3T to track straight and true right out of the dealers door I had none of "squirrelyyness" of the RTs and this was over 500 miles of rain high winds and lots of tractor trailer backwash, is this common to all F3s or do I have an exceptional one?
Living Life, Loving Life
2017 F3T - Monolith Black Satin
2015 RTS - Intense Red Pearl
2013 RTL - Lava Bronze - Retired
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by greybeard
I had 2 spyders a rts and a sts with Ron's swaybar. Don't really think I need it on my 2016 f3t
Paul
I had the RonBar on my GS and Have it on the RT- Really needed on both. 8,000, miles on my F3 and I see no great need for it on the F3 as I Do Not mind a slight lean when I can use my forward Legs to counteract the lean. But if you riding 2 up a lot I would recommend it and it does help a lot with highway stability if your a Long Distance driver!
2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.
Sea Doo GTI-SE 90 Jet Ski!!
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Originally Posted by Sarge707
I had the RonBar on my GS and Have it on the RT- Really needed on both. 8,000, miles on my F3 and I see no great need for it on the F3 as I Do Not mind a slight lean when I can use my forward Legs to counteract the lean. But if you riding 2 up a lot I would recommend it and it does help a lot with highway stability if your a Long Distance driver!
Well, I never ride 2 up and I'm not a long distance rider (at least not yet). I really have nothing to compare my F3-T's performance in the turns to, but I have noticed that:
a) it seems to track better/stabilize at higher speeds (ie- 55mph and up), and
b) cars and two wheelers handle the twisties at faster speeds than I do, but then again I'm a new ryder.
I ride on a lot of country rural roads at 40-50mph and these roads generally don't get repaved very often. Not that there are potholes, but they have a lot of swales and un-evenness to them in general, and I find that the F3 seems to find every crack and crevice. When it rolls to the outside in curves, it can get a bit scary if the curve's pavement is uneven (especially in an off-camber curve). Was just wondering whether the BJR swaybar might help with this.
Thanks.
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MOgang Member
Originally Posted by newbert
When it rolls to the outside in curves, it can get a bit scary if the curve's pavement is uneven (especially in an off-camber curve). Was just wondering whether the BJR swaybar might help with this.
Thanks.
The RonBar stiffens up the suspension so the Spyder doesn't roll to the outside in curves. Once it's installed, you have a whole new ride.
Joy
Very Happy Ryder... '09 Phantom and a '15 F3-S
If you don't slow down, they can't catch you..
If you don't give up, they can't win.
What a long strange journey its been.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by newbert
Well, I never ride 2 up and I'm not a long distance rider (at least not yet). I really have nothing to compare my F3-T's performance in the turns to, but I have noticed that:
a) it seems to track better/stabilize at higher speeds (ie- 55mph and up), and
b) cars and two wheelers handle the twisties at faster speeds than I do, but then again I'm a new ryder.
I ride on a lot of country rural roads at 40-50mph and these roads generally don't get repaved very often. Not that there are potholes, but they have a lot of swales and un-evenness to them in general, and I find that the F3 seems to find every crack and crevice. When it rolls to the outside in curves, it can get a bit scary if the curve's pavement is uneven (especially in an off-camber curve). Was just wondering whether the BJR swaybar might help with this.
Thanks.
Same boat here. We mainly ride country roads (40-50mph) which are imperfect and experience the exact same thing. I think the type of roads you ride will really determine the type of ride you can expect. One handed relaxed riding is a thing of the past now. Can never actually sit back and relax, take your eyes off the road to admire the view for a sec and it just goes wherever the imperfections take it. No death grip either lol. With more miles it has been manageable and you do sort of get used to it. Highway is awesome. Nice flat roads which are rare here are also awesome. Crowned roads still affect it tremendously. Ive found that riding as high up on the crown as possible takes a lot of the load off of the right side, but yeah lefthand off camber turns really get ya leaning to counteract the forces.
Hoping the new front shocks and sway bar install helps. Ordering the shocks today, already have the sway bar waiting. I'll let you know with a before and after comparo if youre interested.
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Originally Posted by Slowpoke387
Same boat here. We mainly ride country roads (40-50mph) which are imperfect and experience the exact same thing. I think the type of roads you ride will really determine the type of ride you can expect. One handed relaxed riding is a thing of the past now. Can never actually sit back and relax, take your eyes off the road to admire the view for a sec and it just goes wherever the imperfections take it. No death grip either lol. With more miles it has been manageable and you do sort of get used to it. Highway is awesome. Nice flat roads which are rare here are also awesome. Crowned roads still affect it tremendously. Ive found that riding as high up on the crown as possible takes a lot of the load off of the right side, but yeah lefthand off camber turns really get ya leaning to counteract the forces.
Hoping the new front shocks and sway bar install helps. Ordering the shocks today, already have the sway bar waiting. I'll let you know with a before and after comparo if youre interested.
Yes! I'm definitely interested. Thanks!
What model are you ryding, and what shocks are you ordering?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Slowpoke387
Same boat here. We mainly ride country roads (40-50mph) which are imperfect and experience the exact same thing. I think the type of roads you ride will really determine the type of ride you can expect. One handed relaxed riding is a thing of the past now. Can never actually sit back and relax, take your eyes off the road to admire the view for a sec and it just goes wherever the imperfections take it. No death grip either lol. With more miles it has been manageable and you do sort of get used to it. Highway is awesome. Nice flat roads which are rare here are also awesome. Crowned roads still affect it tremendously. Ive found that riding as high up on the crown as possible takes a lot of the load off of the right side, but yeah lefthand off camber turns really get ya leaning to counteract the forces.
Hoping the new front shocks and sway bar install helps. Ordering the shocks today, already have the sway bar waiting. I'll let you know with a before and after comparo if youre interested.
What you are describing really sounds more like an alignment issue. Have you had a correctly done laser alignment? I can ride one handed and very relaxed for long distances on my F3. It does not dart or wander. Something is up with your bike.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by jcthorne
What you are describing really sounds more like an alignment issue. Have you had a correctly done laser alignment? I can ride one handed and very relaxed for long distances on my F3. It does not dart or wander. Something is up with your bike.
F3L here.
How are the roads where you are? Are they 40-50mph crowned type?
Actually ive had the laser alignment done lol. Everyone and i mean everyone has told me that its me and that i must be causing it somehow with a death grip or leaning incorrectly or with too much handlebar input. Ive addressed all of that and have come to the conclusion that its just irregular/crowned roads that just really affect these machines. Highways and flat roads are just perfect. Maybe the Kenda's affect it too. After we do the shocks/sway bar we will re-assess and change the tires if things dont improve. The best i can describe it is if you've ever driven a late model sport car with really wide low profile front tires. The way they just grab every imperfection and want to go with it. Also its really tough to hold a line through a longer sweeping turn without constantly having to adjust the steering. Kind of scary lol.
Not trying to hijack the thread. Just thought maybe more heads are better than one and the situation seems SO similar.
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Very Active Member
FYI, my stock 2015 F3S tracked very nicely going down the road, but everyone on this forum seemed to think that getting a laser alignment was the thing to do because factory settings are outta whack 9 out of 10 times. Got Squared Away to look her over at the Deadwood Rally and, sure 'nuf, the left wheel was about 1/4" off. Now, she still tracks nicely, but she just corners like a dream.
BTW, I am, for the most part, a touring style rider, not a "sport rider", but if I had to list the items I would put on a new bike, that sway bar would be right at the top. YMMV!!!!
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Very Active Member
Newbert, it costs a couple of hundred bucks. That's enough procrastinating. Just put it on, see how it goes and if it doesn't work for you put your old one back on and sell the Ronbar. You'll get plenty of takers. It works brilliantly for me on our rough county roads in keeping the F3-L planted in curves and also on the straights.
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Originally Posted by Peteoz
Newbert, it costs a couple of hundred bucks. That's enough procrastinating . Just put it on, see how it goes and if it doesn't work for you put your old one back on and sell the Ronbar. You'll get plenty of takers. It works brilliantly for me on our rough county roads in keeping the F3-L planted in curves and also on the straights.
Pete
Yeah, well if I was a DIYer, your suggestion would make sense. However, let's just say that I'm "mechanically challenged", so trying things out to see how it goes costs me in labor costs. As a result, do I over-analyze before deciding? - Yeah, probably.
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Active Member
Considering we have the same issues ill be the test mule for ya lol. I already bought mine, just waiting on the shocks. I think doing both is going to help. Prob be at least a week before they go on though.
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Active Member
I ordered a swaybar from Ron too.
Mine shipped out today so I'll have it on by Saturday. I'm looking forward to seeing the difference..!
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Active Member
Originally Posted by newbert
Yeah, well if I was a DIYer, your suggestion would make sense. However, let's just say that I'm "mechanically challenged", so trying things out to see how it goes costs me in labor costs. As a result, do I over-analyze before deciding? - Yeah, probably.
Same here, shop wants $135 to put it on so swapping back means another $135, thought the swaybar was $288 last time I looked. So for me, swapping out doesn't make much sense.
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Very Active Member
Sway bar has NOTHING to do with leaning!!!
That is the physics of centrifigal force - PERIOD!
If anything you would need to lean more because you'll be able to corner FASTER - ergo more force.
AJ
Originally Posted by newbert
Still mulling over adding the BJR swaybar to my 2016 F3-T. I asked this question in another thread, but I think that it may have been buried, so I'm repeating it here:
Given the same radius turn, taken at the same speed, under the same circumstances, would a Spyder with the BajaRon sway bar installed require less leaning into the turn by the rider, than a "stock" Spyder without the BajaRon sway bar would (because the Spyder will dip/roll less to the outside)?
If so, would that mean that you could theoretically take the turn at a higher speed with the BajaRon sway bar, if you lean into the turn the same amount as without the swaybar? (I hope that my meaning is clear....)
Thanks!
2014 RT-S
Akrapovic Exhaust & Cat Bypass
Bajaron Sway Bar w/links / Sena SM-10/Garmin 660
Comfort Seat w Adjustable Backrest
Decals by Purple Harley / Magic Strobe
Kuryakyn Black Widow Pegs Rivco Highway Brackets
Rivco Trunk Mounted Double Flag Holder
FOBO / Spyder Cuff / XM Radio w MC Antenna
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Active Member
Originally Posted by PaladinLV
Sway bar has NOTHING to do with leaning!!!
That is the physics of centrifigal force - PERIOD!
If anything you would need to lean more because you'll be able to corner FASTER - ergo more force.
AJ
Think by leaning it was meant as the bike wont dip down as much on the outside of turns, at the same speed as without the bar. Apples to apples. Hopefully resulting in less upsetting of the suspension. Big time annoying trait.
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Originally Posted by PaladinLV
Sway bar has NOTHING to do with leaning!!!
That is the physics of centrifigal force - PERIOD!
If anything you would need to lean more because you'll be able to corner FASTER - ergo more force.
AJ
Well, I guess that's what I don't understand. Excessive roll in a curve is counter-balanced by my leaning into the curve, right? So, if the new sway bar reduces this roll, wouldn't I need to lean into the curve less (assuming the same given speed)? Or, thought of in a different way -- lean into the curve the same amount, while being able to corner faster.
I'm trying to minimize the amount of leaning I have to do.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by newbert
Well, I guess that's what I don't understand. Excessive roll in a curve is counter-balanced by my leaning into the curve, right? So, if the new sway bar reduces this roll, wouldn't I need to lean into the curve less (assuming the same given speed)? Or, thought of in a different way -- lean into the curve the same amount, while being able to corner faster.
I'm trying to minimize the amount of leaning I have to do.
All things being equal meaning same corner, same speed, i would def expect to lean a bit less due to hopefully less "dipping down" on the outside. Its why im changing out the shocks too. Hoping to firm up the compression a bit so that the chassis stays more level under a load (turns) or at least slow down the process of the tilt lol. The roads are really crowned here so the whole bike dips down to the right big time in left turns. You will always need to lean though. I get what you mean, just a little less effort.
Last edited by Slowpoke387; 07-17-2017 at 06:53 PM.
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Originally Posted by newbert
Still mulling over adding the BJR swaybar to my 2016 F3-T. I asked this question in another thread, but I think that it may have been buried, so I'm repeating it here:
Given the same radius turn, taken at the same speed, under the same circumstances, would a Spyder with the BajaRon sway bar installed require less leaning into the turn by the rider, than a "stock" Spyder without the BajaRon sway bar would (because the Spyder will dip/roll less to the outside)?
If so, would that mean that you could theoretically take the turn at a higher speed with the BajaRon sway bar, if you lean into the turn the same amount as without the swaybar? (I hope that my meaning is clear....)
Thanks!
The short answer is YES, you would require less leaning to take the turn at a given speed......
And that means that the short answer to your 'if so' question is also YES, but for both, there is quite a lot of that centrifugal force & physics stuff coming into play & really, you could spend days discussing the why's & wherefore's & most of us still wouldn't clearly understand exactly what was happening or how it applied here... hey, many of the World's experts in these fields (automotive suspension design AND physics) still argue about exactly what's going on!!
But the end result is that, if all other things remained equal, a BajaRon bar equipped Spyder will allow the rider to take a given corner with less leaning than that needed on a Non-BajaRon equipped Spyder - and it sounds to me like that's really the crux of what you're after, isn't it?!?
Go for it, I sincerely doubt you'll regret it!
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