Comfort Impossible for a RSS?

[cmbspyderrss]

Newly hatched 2014 Spyder RSS SE5 Owner here. After breaking the Pesky Search button I am more confused than ever. So, I have a few statements, background and of course questions.

First, I know and knew before I bought the RSS that it is not a RT or ST in the comfort arena. I bought it to hang off it from time to time and No not like a knee dragger. I would like to be a little more Trike like comfortable when it is straight on the way home. I can want right?

I am 6’-1” and 205lbs without riding gear. I had back surgery a few years ago and had to stop riding to heal. On my RSS in standard comfortable riding mode if I move back an inch in the seat and straighten up a little my arms have about 3in before they are fully locked out. Hope that make sense. The width and angle of the stock bar is actually perfect for me. I have a problem with pressure points that slowly numb the hiney and move up to my shoulders and neck. I did a very wallet draining session with one of my HD’s in new Corbin and Le Pera seats, goofy gel pads, HB risers, pegs, floor boards, windshields you name it. All with little to No gain just to find a little more comfort.
During my research, I found that the risers for the RSS are 1” higher and no other sizes available. Not much of a difference but some is better than none. I wish the HB was more snowmobile as you could go blind with the amount of 4 bolt risers available. I like the XBAR (I think that is what it is called) where you can adjust almost any angle but on the RSS I don’t see me spending that kinda $$ for possibly no gain. I also came to the conclusion that i will get an Ultimate Seat with Drivers back rest regardless as the stocker has zero grip and when I get off the seat the hump does nothing but interfere. I will then do Highway pegs. There will be no 2 up riding for me on this bike so don’t need to worry about that part.

So, the question is if you were striving for a little more comfort would you do the following in order?
1. Seat
2. Riser
3. HW Pegs
Or…
1. Riser
2. Seat
3. HW Pegs
Any other ideas, manufactures, links to products or other search buttons I can break would be appreciated.

[bmccaffrey]

Going right direction with seat exchange. I have the ultimate on my RS wishing would have went Russel day long. Ultimate is still good.

Switch bars out from ST or RT 13 and newer will work. Floorboards and you are ready to rock. Which i have on mine plus more.

Hope this helps

[ARtraveler]

Bars & seat. Being tall, you need the bars higher. The 1" riser does absolutely nothing.

I had both an 08 and 09 GS/then RS. $6K worth of mods did not make them comfortable for me. I quickly traded my 08 for a Premier Edition RT when they came out in 2010. Been an RT person ever since.

[IGETAROUND]

Going right direction with seat exchange. I have the ultimate on my RS wishing would have went Russel day long. Ultimate is still good.

Switch bars out from ST or RT 13 and newer will work. Floorboards and you are ready to rock. Which i have on mine plus more.

Definitely Seat first, Russel Day Long would be my choice. then change to the RT take off bars from someone who has upgrades to the tri axis bars.

Floor boards, Seal boards give you the most move around space. All toll~ $ 2000.00 later you should have achieved comfort. What is it worth to you???

[Dan-Am]

The risers and seat go hand in hand, meaning that changing either alone is not ideal. The seat will be designed for an upright sitting position, which won't be there until you do the risers/bars. I did the adjustable risers first and noticed immediately how uncomfortable the stock seat was, as it was made for the forward-leaning RS S position. Fortunately, the RDL seat arrived quickly and all was well
Pegs, if needed, last, because they won't feel right until your seating position is more upright. Just my findings....
Dan

[Buckeye Bleau]

I had some similar discomfort to yours and was on the verge of getting a new seat and still may.

I was going to physical therapy for a neck nerve issue and in conversation I mentioned this to the physical therapist, her comment was I can help you with that, I was all in.

She set me up with an exercise routine to strengthen my gluteus (butt muscles), I have only been at it for about a month and a half but it has already made a difference. Previously after about an hour, even with highway pegs and sheepskin, which both help I have to get off after about 90 minutes max, now that is not an issue, though a longer test has not been available yet, but for $25 per month I am all in for now.

Joe

[Chupaca]

seating was GS/RS/RSS were the leaning forward sport rydes. Then they came up with the RT full up seating so naturally they made the ST somewhere in between . Then the F3 total crusier harley type. But your on the right track for what your looking for. I am 6'1" 185 with back and leg problems and love my RS. Added the Comfort seat and can ryde all day.

[Sarge707]

I had the risers and Ultimate on my 09 GS BUT my best upgrade was trading it in with 35,000 miles for my 2015 F3?

[cmbspyderrss]

Wow! Way too many multi quotes to use to say thank you all and you are very helpful.

I am looking for the PN on the ST or RT 13 and newer handlebars. A few sites seem to call out different numbers Left and right that you have to refer to in the manual which of course i don't have. Anyone have a PN handy so i can order a set. Much appreciated.

[blacklightning]

Going right direction with seat exchange. I have the ultimate on my RS wishing would have went Russel day long. Ultimate is still good.

Switch bars out from ST or RT 13 and newer will work. Floorboards and you are ready to rock. Which i have on mine plus more.

Hope this helps

That is the direction that I would go. For me, I would search for floorboards that will lower your feet by a couple of inches.

[cmbspyderrss]

Found some more info. I am a visual learner and figured they were like regular handlebars just with bigger risers and possible kickback. Yeah? No! Looked at mine and said WTF. From what i can see on the blow up i need the PN's below. Look right as i will be reusing some of my parts? The cost from these people doesn't seem out of line or at least what i paid for custom bars on bikes before.

http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/2013-can-am-spyder-rt-rts-se5-sm5-steering-assembly.html

Location	Part Description
10	HANDLEBAR (RT-STD)
	Part Number: 709400891 Required per assembly: 1	$115.00
20	HANDLEBAR CENTRAL COVER
	Part Number: 709400579 Required per assembly: 1	$11.45
50	LH STEERING COVER. SE5 ELECTRONIC
	Part Number: 709400577 Required per assembly: 1	$11.45
60	RH STEERING COVER
	Part Number: 709400578 Required per assembly: 1	$11.45
190	HEX. FORMING SCREW M5 X 16
	Part Number: 210251680 Required per assembly: 4	$3.12
	Total	$152.47

[WA5VHU]

I turned my 2013 RS into somewhat of an RT wannabe and it made a world of difference to my comfort and I don't think I gave up any performance, other that the extra weight of side and top boxes. I could still outrun my wife's 2014 RT no problem.

You can't put handlebar risers on a 2013 or later, you swap out for ST or RT handlebars or get the Tri-Axis adjustable handlebars as there are no "bars" in these handlebars.

I put RT handlebars on mine and the numb hands problem disappeared, added floorboards so no more numb feet & legs, got the BRP comfort seat which made my butt much happier (Russell Day-Long prolly better!), all these items were bought from the classifieds on this forum. I you don't see what you are looking for listed just put out a want to buy. Some folks here have upgraded/changed their trikes and still have the old parts on-hand.


02-20170611_142405 (Medium).jpg

[bmccaffrey]

Go to advance search and type in handlebar swap. You will see article by hchays

Tells you step by step and also gives you part numbers

[cmbspyderrss]

I turned my 2013 RS into somewhat of an RT wannabe and it made a world of difference to my comfort and I don't think I gave up any performance, other that the extra weight of side and top boxes. I could still outrun my wife's 2014 RT no problem.

You can't put handlebar risers on a 2013 or later, you swap out for ST or RT handlebars or get the Tri-Axis adjustable handlebars as there are no "bars" in these handlebars.

I put RT handlebars on mine and the numb hands problem disappeared, added floorboards so no more numb feet & legs, got the BRP comfort seat which made my butt much happier (Russell Day-Long prolly better!), all these items were bought from the classifieds on this forum. I you don't see what you are looking for listed just put out a want to buy. Some folks here have upgraded/changed their trikes and still have the old parts on-hand.

That turned out great. Thanks for sharing your experiences and mods. I was on the fence in regards to should i get the ST or RT bars but i think with my height i will go with RT. How tall are you and is your avatar your riding position?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I don't remember who did it ( might be " quasi " ) but a member here put ' dog bone " style risers on the newer style ( 12 - up ) RS - RSS - ST stock handelbars . The risers were from the sno-mobiler's " RSI " brand sold @ DennisKirk.com ( they have different sizes for about $75.00 ) .... maybe someone here will remember who did this .???? ..... Mike

[WA5VHU]

That turned out great. Thanks for sharing your experiences and mods. I was on the fence in regards to should i get the ST or RT bars but i think with my height i will go with RT. How tall are you and is your avatar your riding position?

I am 5/ 8" but have short legs, 29" inseam, and a tall torso. The RS fit me perfectly after all my mods.

That avatar is actually my wife on my Spyder, I took the picture and just love it with the blurred background. We were in a big parking lot and she was practicing for her drivers license test - she used my RS as it was more agile than her 2014 RT-L. She is 5' 3" and I don't think I have a profile picture of me on my Spyder so I don't know what my riding position was.

I sold my Spyder so I can't take any new pictures.

[sealfloorboards]

Newly hatched 2014 Spyder RSS SE5 Owner here. After breaking the Pesky Search button I am more confused than ever. So, I have a few statements, background and of course questions.

First, I know and knew before I bought the RSS that it is not a RT or ST in the comfort arena. I bought it to hang off it from time to time and No not like a knee dragger. I would like to be a little more Trike like comfortable when it is straight on the way home. I can want right?

I am 6’-1” and 205lbs without riding gear. I had back surgery a few years ago and had to stop riding to heal. On my RSS in standard comfortable riding mode if I move back an inch in the seat and straighten up a little my arms have about 3in before they are fully locked out. Hope that make sense. The width and angle of the stock bar is actually perfect for me. I have a problem with pressure points that slowly numb the hiney and move up to my shoulders and neck. I did a very wallet draining session with one of my HD’s in new Corbin and Le Pera seats, goofy gel pads, HB risers, pegs, floor boards, windshields you name it. All with little to No gain just to find a little more comfort.
During my research, I found that the risers for the RSS are 1” higher and no other sizes available. Not much of a difference but some is better than none. I wish the HB was more snowmobile as you could go blind with the amount of 4 bolt risers available. I like the XBAR (I think that is what it is called) where you can adjust almost any angle but on the RSS I don’t see me spending that kinda $$ for possibly no gain. I also came to the conclusion that i will get an Ultimate Seat with Drivers back rest regardless as the stocker has zero grip and when I get off the seat the hump does nothing but interfere. I will then do Highway pegs. There will be no 2 up riding for me on this bike so don’t need to worry about that part.

So, the question is if you were striving for a little more comfort would you do the following in order?
1. Seat
2. Riser
3. HW Pegs
Or…
1. Riser
2. Seat
3. HW Pegs
Any other ideas, manufactures, links to products or other search buttons I can break would be appreciated.

Go to sealfloorboards.com and see what I did to my yellow and black, 2009 RS SE5.
I put a 24" windshield on, a 5" Hillybar riser on and invented the first ever Spyder Floorboard. I ended up with an amazingly comfortable ride for this gimped up old man. The Floorboards reach far enough forward to become Hwy Pegs. Looked almost like an F3 in my seating position. I could then...Ride in comfort.
John

[r1100rider]

Newly hatched 2014 Spyder RSS SE5 Owner here. After breaking the Pesky Search button I am more confused than ever. So, I have a few statements, background and of course questions.

First, I know and knew before I bought the RSS that it is not a RT or ST in the comfort arena. I bought it to hang off it from time to time and No not like a knee dragger. I would like to be a little more Trike like comfortable when it is straight on the way home. I can want right?

I am 6’-1” and 205lbs without riding gear. I had back surgery a few years ago and had to stop riding to heal. On my RSS in standard comfortable riding mode if I move back an inch in the seat and straighten up a little my arms have about 3in before they are fully locked out. Hope that make sense. The width and angle of the stock bar is actually perfect for me. I have a problem with pressure points that slowly numb the hiney and move up to my shoulders and neck. I did a very wallet draining session with one of my HD’s in new Corbin and Le Pera seats, goofy gel pads, HB risers, pegs, floor boards, windshields you name it. All with little to No gain just to find a little more comfort.
During my research, I found that the risers for the RSS are 1” higher and no other sizes available. Not much of a difference but some is better than none. I wish the HB was more snowmobile as you could go blind with the amount of 4 bolt risers available. I like the XBAR (I think that is what it is called) where you can adjust almost any angle but on the RSS I don’t see me spending that kinda $$ for possibly no gain. I also came to the conclusion that i will get an Ultimate Seat with Drivers back rest regardless as the stocker has zero grip and when I get off the seat the hump does nothing but interfere. I will then do Highway pegs. There will be no 2 up riding for me on this bike so don’t need to worry about that part.

So, the question is if you were striving for a little more comfort would you do the following in order?
1. Seat
2. Riser
3. HW Pegs
Or…
1. Riser
2. Seat
3. HW Pegs
Any other ideas, manufactures, links to products or other search buttons I can break would be appreciated.

I lowered and set back my foot pegs and it helped a lot im tall also the change moved my knees enough that they were in the scooped part of the [tank] so i wasnt spread so much at my hips it helped a lot

[asp125]

You have a 13, so the ST bar option is a no-brainer. I wish the ST bars would retrofit to the earlier ones though, it looks more factory than the old "cut bar" risers or the heli-bar riser blocks.

I swapped out the stock seat for a comfort seat, that lowered me an inch and moved my butt back an inch. Adding heli-bar risers raised it an inch and moved it back 4.5in. Now it rides like an ST.

[cmbspyderrss]

I want to say thanks again to everyone who replied with opinions, experiences etc. I appreciate it very much.

I ordered the RT Handlebars last night and will square away that part. Talked to Russell and will be ordering a Day Long seat once i can get pictures of my riding position with the new bars.

[Dan-Am]

I want to say thanks again to everyone who replied with opinions, experiences etc. I appreciate it very much.

I ordered the RT Handlebars last night and will square away that part. Talked to Russell and will be ordering a Day Long long seat once i can get pictures of my riding position with the new bars.

Did you order an extra long seat?
J/K, you're going to love the Russell!

20170202_111520.jpg

[cmbspyderrss]

Did you order an extra long seat?
J/K, you're going to love the Russell!

20170202_111520.jpg

Ha Ha. I was writing on my first cup of coffee. Corrected.

Really like the looks of your seat.

[ARtraveler]

I turned my 2013 RS into somewhat of an RT wannabe and it made a world of difference to my comfort and I don't think I gave up any performance, other that the extra weight of side and top boxes. I could still outrun my wife's 2014 RT no problem.

You can't put handlebar risers on a 2013 or later, you swap out for ST or RT handlebars or get the Tri-Axis adjustable handlebars as there are no "bars" in these handlebars.

I put RT handlebars on mine and the numb hands problem disappeared, added floorboards so no more numb feet & legs, got the BRP comfort seat which made my butt much happier (Russell Day-Long prolly better!), all these items were bought from the classifieds on this forum. I you don't see what you are looking for listed just put out a want to buy. Some folks here have upgraded/changed their trikes and still have the old parts on-hand.


02-20170611_142405 (Medium).jpg

Very nice looking RS. Similar to what I did with mine. Glad you mentioned that it is now bars only (2013 and later) instead of risers. For the buzzing, we installed the handlebar weights that were available from BRP the first couple years.

[sealfloorboards]

Take a look at my seal floorboards. They were designed for the RS and where the first floor boards ever designed for a spider. You will find yourself sitting straighter and have tons more leg room and will be able to ride longer distances without cramping up. Getting, on and off is also much easier. Check out my seal floorboards website and see what I did with my 2009 RS. It became extremely comfortable to ride. Seal floorboards was the first and still the best floorboard on the market.
Ride in comfort,
John

[cmbspyderrss]

Installing some RT bars on my Spyder and in the final stages but now my ignition doesn't work.

I think i went to far trying to figure out how to get the ignition tumbler off and took off the bottom cover. After i did this i realized you could just undo the Frunk and Seat cables and unbolt it. I have 12.58v at the battery, no blown fuses, when the key is in it releases the Frunk and Seat but does initialize.

When putting on the bottom cover it is keyed so you can't put it up side down and i 100% made sure the white plastic gear engaged the gear on the tumbler. The zinc looking gear on the tumbler moves in and out of the tumbler about 1/4 in. Because of that i made sure it was en-gauging the white gear. The steering lock pin seems to be in the non en-gauged position as it has some distance to go before hitting the lock bar.

Not sure what i did wrong but any help would be appreciated.

Ignition Switch 1.jpgIgnition Switch 2.jpgIgnition Switch 3.jpgIgnition Switch 4.jpg