HELP -About to leave for East TN and Spyder won't start

[armyspydervet]

Just got my Spyder back from the dealer after six weeks because they couldn't figure out why my top case was not working. Picked it up Friday and everything worked great. Got it home, washed it and put it in garage. Went to start it and when I turn the key everything lights up like normal. Go to hit the mode button...nothing. Go to release the parking brake nothing. Go to hit start...just one faint click. But everything else is on. I checked battery connections and they all seem fine. I'm going to put it on a tender tonight, but could it really be the battery?

Any ideas? I missed homecoming because it was in the shop. Don't really want to miss this event too.

[ingramsail]

Check the kill switch maybe.

[Centurion]

It sounds like an electrical issue. The Battery Tender might help but I would be concerned about heading out on a trip with a bad battery. You might want to have it tested prior to leaving. Good luck and hope you get the issue resolved.

[armyspydervet]

Check the kill switch maybe.

No. Kill switch is on. This won't go past the mode screen.

[armyspydervet]

It sounds like an electrical issue. The Battery Tender might help but I would be concerned about heading out on a trip with a bad battery. You might want to have it tested prior to leaving. Good luck and hope you get the issue resolved.

I hope it's just the battery. I could replace that tomorrow. Don't leave until Wednesday.

[trikermutha]

Not sure if your F3 has the feature but did you press the eco button first to clear the screen . Just throwing that out there..

Or check the connections at the battery first.

[akspyderman]

It is sounding like a battery issue to me. Dealer had it for six weeks--I am willing to bet that it was not put on a battery tender during that time. I am guessing you battery was near discharge. They probably had to jump start it to get things going--when you were to pick it up.

A tender usually will not input more charge into the battery--it is a battery maintainer. A battery charger should be used to get your battery up to par. Since this is a new F3, any problems should be on their dime.

[armyspydervet]

It is sounding like a battery issue to me. Dealer had it for six weeks--I am willing to bet that it was not put on a battery tender during that time. I am guessing you battery was near discharge. They probably had to jump start it to get things going--when you were to pick it up.

A tender usually will not input more charge into the battery--it is a battery maintainer. A battery charger should be used to get your battery up to par. Since this is a new F3, any problems should be on their dime.

Thank you. Im using a "speed charge" see picture. I've used it before I dead battery. So you think everything else would boot up fine and it still be the battery? All the lights work, screen comes on. Just won't go past the press the mode button screen and I can't disengage the parking brake. If I could just get it started, I'd get it to another dealer. I never want to go back to Coleman Powersports in Woodbridge, VA again.IMG_1165.jpgIMG_1164.jpg

[Ex-Rocket]

Did you try jump starting it from like your car? Remember to not have your car running if you try to jump your Spyder off. Worth a try.

[Chupaca]

Hook it up to a jumper, if your car do not start the engine. If you can not get it started then it is more than likely not the battery. I'm sure you tried all the step on the brake, kill switch etc. If the battery lost that much after ryding home you have a serious drain from something they may have done fixing the trunk issue...

[SPYD3R]

i had the same issue last year at this time... replaced battery... replaced alternator... still the battery kept loosing it's juice...
come to find out it was the GROUNDING STRAP from the alternator to the chassic.... it was replaced in July of 2016 with a heavy duty copper strap, and i haven't had a problem since....
hope this helps...
Dan P
SPYD3R

[armyspydervet]

Just tried to jump start. No go

[nealperkins]

So why do you need to have the car off if jump starting? Thanks.

[bscrive]

The amps that the car's alternator is producing may be too much for the Spyder to handle. With the car off then you are just using the battery power.

[DGoebel]

I recently had the same symptoms as the OP, ended up being a bad kill switch, determined by brute force, and the shops computers. IF the tech truly leaned with extra pressure on the kill switch it would start.. But it would routinely fail to start, yet light all the lights, gauges, etc. What I noticed initially that things weren't right was that when turning the key on, I never got the Read the Safety warning press the Mode button to start screen, it just went to the main dash screen immediately.

By the way, I had local Autozone test the battery just to be sure, had it out of the bike on a charger and battery tender overnight, symptoms were still the same, New Kill switch in the new Right Hand Switch console(?) housing and works great with the same battery. Tech said he'd never seen one go bad.

[armyspydervet]

I recently had the same symptoms as the OP, ended up being a bad kill switch, determined by brute force, and the shops computers. IF the tech truly leaned with extra pressure on the kill switch it would start.. But it would routinely fail to start, yet light all the lights, gauges, etc. What I noticed initially that things weren't right was that when turning the key on, I never got the Read the Safety warning press the Mode button to start screen, it just went to the main dash screen immediately.

By the way, I had local Autozone test the battery just to be sure, had it out of the bike on a charger and battery tender overnight, symptoms were still the same, New Kill switch in the new Right Hand Switch console(?) housing and works great with the same battery. Tech said he'd never seen one go bad.

Mine goes to the mode button screen and won't allow me past it. Nor can I get the parking brake to disengage.

[DGoebel]

The parking brake wouldn't release on mine either, AND it was stuck in Reverse, I ended up (on my RT) going down and removing the parking brake cable in order to move the bike( was a 2013 RTL though, could be different, but my battery checked out fine, yet no starting..... Starts fine since the kill switch module replacement.

[Bob Denman]

Chris,
I know that you've got no time to fool with another problem... but I'd be at the dealership this morning, and standing on the Service Manager's desk about 7 seconds after they open up...
They did this to your bike: they owe you a VERY prompt resolution!

[Trbayth]

Hope they're open on Mondays. A lot of powersports dealers aren't.

[Bob Denman]

Call the owner of the Dealership at home, and explain that you have an "unacceptable situation" happening, and they have to take care of it NOW!

[unclejay]

Battery Tender brand devices will most definitely recharge a badly-discharged battery, they don't just 'maintain'. It will take overnight, though.

[UtahPete]

Mine goes to the mode button screen and won't allow me past it. Nor can I get the parking brake to disengage.

Sure sounds like a fault in the kill switch circuit to me. If it's a new bike it should still be under the BRP roadside assistance program. You could have it towed to a BRP dealer and let them deal with it.

[quasi]

i'm guessing you kicked a fuse or relay. just washed it and now it has a no start issue. water in the controls.

[armyspydervet]

Spent all day trouble shooting. Turns out that the top case has a brake light and the lid has a switch that tell the spyder display that the door is opened and closed. If it's open, it sends a warning to the console. I started disconnecting all my LED lights in the front and working my back to the rear. have TricLED saddle bag run-turn-brake light, and those lights for whatever reason, Were not talking nice to the canbus once the topcase was installed. Never had a problem with the lights until the top case was installed. As soon as I disconnected the LED lights, everything went back to normal. Plug them back in, the bike is on the fritz again. They won't be going back on until I can get the LEDs professionally installed.

[akspyderman]

Spent all day trouble shooting. Turns out that the top case has a brake light and the lid has a switch that tell the spyder display that the door is opened and closed. If it's open, it sends a warning to the console. I started disconnecting all my LED lights in the front and working my back to the rear. have TricLED saddle bag run-turn-brake light, and those lights for whatever reason, Were not talking nice to the canbus once the topcase was installed. Never had a problem with the lights until the top case was installed. As soon as I disconnected the TricLED lights, everything went back to normal. Plug them back in, the bike is on the fritz again. They won't be going back on until I can get TricLED to install them and check for themselves.

Glad you figured out a temporary fix. Please keep us posted.