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  1. #1
    Active Member SpyderCruiser's Avatar
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    Thumbs down ACS Compressor lasts only 6,300 miles?

    2015 RTL 6,300 miles and dealer confirmed compressor is bad. How long do these usually last? I can tell you it sucks at night when it doesn't work, my low beam headlights were in the trees and every single cage was flashing me on the way home. Had no way to fill it manually, only take the compressor on long trips. It rides like crap without air in that bag too.


    I guess dealers do not stock these and had to order it. The dealer claims the newer ones last longer then the older design, could not prove it to me! The message manual show up in the ACS display when it is inoperable.

    First time it has been to the dealer except for the first $300 oil change.
    2015 RTL , Red

  2. #2
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    I know of 2010 RT-S bikes, that still have theirs running just fine: I'm sorry to hear that you got a defective one.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
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    Check out YouTube. Search for Spyder Compressor. There are a couple of videos there with options.
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  4. #4
    Active Member almosthere's Avatar
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    Default mine too

    My '15 RT-S lost it's compressor in Valcourt luckily NC Performance was able to change it out while we were there. Not sure if it ever worked correctly from day one. Now when I move the square down the scale on the display( mine too started saying "manual" too on and off) we can actually feel the bike settling lower at each setting. Also we can now hear it airing up when we move the square up again. Neither of these would happen before the compressor replacement.

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    The mech at my local dealer said it's usually an air leak that does in a compressor. When I had to get a new one under warranty he replaced the air bag as well.
    2016 F3 Limited
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  6. #6
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highwayman2013 View Post
    The mech at my local dealer said it's usually an air leak that does in a compressor. When I had to get a new one under warranty he replaced the air bag as well.
    That is exactly what I would suggested. I would also consider putting in our Rock Guard while they have it down. Rocks collect around the bottom of the swing arm and will wear a hole in the bag, eventually blowing the compressor. Only way you can find the leak is to pull the airbag and bench test it. After the second compressor failed on our RT (due to the airbag) I bought a Viair 98C, pulled the air bag and streamed 4oz of green slime in it, put the rock guard on and then all back together. That was early 2015. About 25k miles ago. Everything still working perfectly. On a $75 dollar compressor. Here are some link to videos that show part of the repair and the second link is for the Rock Guard.



    http://dochumphreys.wixsite.com/roadster/products


    http://dochumphreys.wixsite.com/roadster/install

  7. #7
    RT-S PE#0801 timeless's Avatar
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    Default 25000 miles at failure

    Mine failed at 25K miles so I changed it out to the unit others on this forum have used for under $100 total!!!!

    Took the OEM unit apart and found a stuck brush, the unit now works just fine so I use it as a portable tire inflater!!!!!!!!!



  8. #8
    Active Member SpyderCruiser's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the information. First thing I thought was a bad air bag. But if it is filled with 60 lbs. air it holds fine. The dealer confirmed it was the compressor. Seems mine may have never worked properly since new, never felt the bike raise up when the button was pushed. Usually kept it at the middle setting.

    Doc, thanks for the video and the source for a different compressor. If I ever let the best run out will use that replacement compressor.
    2015 RTL , Red

  9. #9
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderCruiser View Post
    Thanks for all the information. First thing I thought was a bad air bag. But if it is filled with 60 lbs. air it holds fine. The dealer confirmed it was the compressor. Seems mine may have never worked properly since new, never felt the bike raise up when the button was pushed. Usually kept it at the middle setting.

    Doc, thanks for the video and the source for a different compressor. If I ever let the best run out will use that replacement compressor.
    Hope that fixes it! Took two compressors from the dealer and then a 6 week delay in ryding time for me to take matters into my own hands.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member oldguyinTX's Avatar
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    I'm on my second bag and third compressor. After the second one failed, they ordered the third one, installed it, and guess what? It was DEFECTIVE! My dealer was at least as P.O.'d as I was. He tested the third one before installing it, and so far, so good.
    "A Wise Man Once Said, I Should Ask My Wife."
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  11. #11
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    Hi,

    It's easy to fix it,,, more difficult to take out part...., I fix mine, with electric spray cleaner, air compressor.... It's motor with two carbon parts, who rub against the rotor...and one of them, got lot of fine dust and some rust...so he stop moving and stop touching the rotor...After cleaning, the two parts moving fine in there place...i put the cover on it and put 12v...and is still alive,,,, and saving 380$.
    P1410454.jpgP1410460.jpgOn the second picture you could the the gap between the right magnet and the rotor
    Last edited by Mickay; 06-19-2017 at 06:17 PM.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Buckeye Bleau's Avatar
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    Mine failed at 22,000 miles plus or minus. The dealer fixed it under warranty.
    Last fall I heard it getting very loud, the dealer said he can do nothing until it fails, that was last fall, the first ride this year it died.

    Joe
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  13. #13
    Active Member SpyderCruiser's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Mickay,

    Thank you for your post and video. I have taken these little PM motors apart all the time and fixed them like you do. The motor in my windlass failed last year. It failed because the magnets became unglued from the metal case and rubbed against the armature jamming it so it would not turn.

    I am a little concerned because I see your magnets stuck to your armature and not the case. Were there metal clips holding the magnets in the case? Did you glue the magnets back into the case? If you depend on just the magnets strength to hold them in the case, they will move when the armature is magnetized and you may have a repeat failure.

    Thanks,
    Louie


    Quote Originally Posted by Mickay View Post
    Hi,

    It's easy to fix it,,, more difficult to take out part...., I fix mine, with electric spray cleaner, air compressor.... It's motor with two carbon parts, who rub against the rotor...and one of them, got lot of fine dust and some rust...so he stop moving and stop touching the rotor...After cleaning, the two parts moving fine in there place...i put the cover on it and put 12v...and is still alive,,,, and saving 380$.
    P1410454.jpgP1410460.jpgOn the second picture you could the the gap between the right magnet and the rotor
    2015 RTL , Red

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