RT 622 (2010) Wiring

[SteveandBelinda]

I just purchased a 2010 RT 622 trailer. The trailer has the round 9 pin connector on it. I have a 2014 RT Limited with a Big Bike trailer harness on it, with 5 pin flat connector on it. I have been running this with my Aluma trailer in the past. I notice a lot of people say they are running 4 pin flat or 4 pin square, and this confuses me, and makes me wonder how I should wire the trailer plug, or change the bike plug.
I was told by someone early today that they would not go to 4 pin, because that would eliminate the turn signal working when you have your foot on the brake.

[billybovine]

I looked online and the 2010 owners manual for trailer is not available but the 2011 one is. I will assume the wiring is the same. According to the wiring diagram in the manual. The RT 622 is a 4 wire system. So you can keep the 5 wire on your Spyder. I would cut the current plug off the trailer and install a 5 flat connector but you need to install a simple 3 to 2 converter along with it. Available at any auto parts store.

[SteveandBelinda]

I just called a very reputable dealer, and he told me , that he would not advise going that way, because if I start blowing modules on the trailer, that would cost me several hundreds of dollars for modules.
He suggested buying the conversion kit, to go from 9 pin, to 4 pin. Which mean figuring out how to change plug on bike from 5 to 4 pin.

I looked online and the 2010 owners manual for trailer is not available but the 2011 one is. I will assume the wiring is the same. According to the wiring diagram in the manual. The RT 622 is a 4 wire system. So you can keep the 5 wire on your Spyder. I would cut the current plug off the trailer and install a 5 flat connector but you need to install a simple 3 to 2 converter along with it. Available at any auto parts store.

[jwulf74]

I made my own harness and put in my own relays instead of a module. I even added the missing reverse lights to the trailer (the older 622's had the spot and wiring for them, just no clear/white bulb). The 9 pin on the older trailers had it all...

On my phone now so hard to find, but I have a thread with pics and all the pinouts on both sides

[SpyderAnn01]

I looked online and the 2010 owners manual for trailer is not available but the 2011 one is. I will assume the wiring is the same. According to the wiring diagram in the manual. The RT 622 is a 4 wire system. So you can keep the 5 wire on your Spyder. I would cut the current plug off the trailer and install a 5 flat connector but you need to install a simple 3 to 2 converter along with it. Available at any auto parts store.

Never assume!
In 2011 they disabled the turn signal amber bulb and just had the red flash so his is different.

[SpyderAnn01]

I just called a very reputable dealer, and he told me , that he would not advise going that way, because if I start blowing modules on the trailer, that would cost me several hundreds of dollars for modules.
He suggested buying the conversion kit, to go from 9 pin, to 4 pin. Which mean figuring out how to change plug on bike from 5 to 4 pin.

He is correct you will blow modules without updating the 10 trailer to be compatible with the 14 RT module.

[billybovine]

So if the 2010 is still wired to amber turn signals. That makes it even easier. No 3 to 2 converter needed. Keep using the amber lights. Just cut the plug off the trailer and wire in a flat 5. There is no module in the trailer to blow. So that part of what the dealer said is not true. He likely meant the module in the trailer harness in the Spyder. You maybe did not mention that you have Show Chrome one from big bike parts. I have not heard of much trouble with the Show Chrome module. But the same does apply. So as long as the continuity is good. No loose connections on either the power or ground side of the circuit. You won't have any trouble.

[billybovine]

He is correct you will blow modules without updating the 10 trailer to be compatible with the 14 RT module.

He does not have a 2014 module. Show Chrome harness.

[SteveandBelinda]

Had dealer check VIN, and said there are no campaigns open on the trailer. So I guess it's good.

You might first find out if the recall has been done on your trailer. During the recall, I beleive the turn signals are disabled, though I do not know if the sockets are retained.

[SteveandBelinda]

Now when you say "module", or 2014 module. What are you exactly referring to?

He is correct you will blow modules without updating the 10 trailer to be compatible with the 14 RT module.

[SteveandBelinda]

I would be interested in how you did that, and where can you put the clear bulb?

I made my own harness and put in my own relays instead of a module. I even added the missing reverse lights to the trailer (the older 622's had the spot and wiring for them, just no clear/white bulb). The 9 pin on the older trailers had it all...

On my phone now so hard to find, but I have a thread with pics and all the pinouts on both sides

[jwulf74]

It has been a while, but our 622 had an amber bulb under the clear lens. I just switched the bulb out and I think I had to connect a wire or something on each side as u think they were cut from the factory. I have it all in a post here somewhere but on my work lunch on my phone...

[jwulf74]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...wiring-harness

Starts on post 3 or 4...

[SteveandBelinda]

Thanks. I just spoke to a dealer today and he told me that there was a service bulletin on this subject ( instructions.brp.com ) that shows I need the update kit part # 219-400-637, which has me take off the tongue harness and replace it with one in the kit, install a trailer harness grounding wire, take out all 4 amber light bulbs and put a patch over the socket, then re-install the lamp socket back into the body, and install the bracket with the 9 pin conversion to 4 pin conversion.
I just want to run it the way it originally did, amber turn signal lights, and if possible the backup lights.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...wiring-harness

Starts on post 3 or 4...

[SteveandBelinda]

Got the lights working, but noticed that when I turn the bike key on, or running, there is a huge amount of static coming off the body of the trailer. Enough that once I got done wiring the trailer, there was dust all over the trailer. I also notice that if I turn my forearm over, and put it just above the body, I can feel the hair on my arm stand up.
I am thinking of changing the turn signal (4 Amber) bulbs to LED. May be brighter, and do you know what the bulb number is for the marker bulbs? I may change those also to LED, if is possible. They are not very bright.
Are the turn signal lights , 1157's?
Also, what is the number of the marker light bulbs?

[jwulf74]

Did you ground the trailer lights back to the battery or bike frame? That is how I did mine. With the static it sounds like something isn't maybe grounded solidly.

[SteveandBelinda]

Trailer harness is powered from the battery, and the ground is grounded on the frame where the gas tank bolts to the frame.

Did you ground the trailer lights back to the battery or bike frame? That is how I did mine. With the static it sounds like something isn't maybe grounded solidly.

[trikermutha]

Is the trailer grounded to the frame of the trailer? Or do you have a separate ground to the trailer from the bike?

[SteveandBelinda]

Trailer is grounded through harness on bike. I don't know if they ground the trailer to it's own frame at the factory, but this was suggested to me by Doc Riverside (to run a ground from light in back of trailer to the frame. Just strange you would have to do this.

Is the trailer grounded to the frame of the trailer? Or do you have a separate ground to the trailer from the bike?

[trikermutha]

Trailer is grounded through harness on bike. I don't know if they ground the trailer to it's own frame at the factory, but this was suggested to me by Doc Riverside (to run a ground from light in back of trailer to the frame. Just strange you would have to do this.

I had to put a ground on the trailer due to blowing the modules. They were using the hitch to ground the trailer.. I am wondering about the trailer lights how they are grounded to the trailer. They do have a ground harness kit for the trailers. I thought there was a TSB or something about the trailer grounding..

May sure the trailer is grounded properly too..

[SteveandBelinda]

Thanks. I am going to try towing a bit, the way I have it , and see how it goes. Don't believe it can do anything to the instrument cluster as mentioned before, because I have an "isolated trailer harness" on the bike.

Not that this helps much since you already know about this now. These instructions detail upgrading the trailer. The grounding kit must also be done, to properly accomplish that, you must remove the paint where the ground lug is attached. Also, if you read the instructions, you can see that the amber turn signals are disabled. I suppose if you built your own module like the other guy did it should work.

Others have mentioned the lights run through the cluster and it is possible for the trailer lights to destroy the instrument cluster. Not exactly sure how it is wired and can do this, but that has been posted before.

I would think that if you retained the original amber turn signals, along with the original trailer harness, ensure the proper ground it is installed, then run an aftermarket electronics module capable of running all the lights, it should work. To connect, it may or may not require spicing into the Spyders wire harness. However, possibly, someone offers a plug and play setup for the electronic module as you want it.

Early on I mentioned checking the trailer to ensure this mod for the wiring and disabling the turn signals was not already accomplished. There is some changes made to the main connector of the trailer harness on the 2010 trailers. If the mod has been done, and you want turn signals, you may need to reverse that repinning of the connector.

Checking to verify if the trailer ground kit is installed is an easy visual check. Look underneath for the ground lug as shown in the instructions, and also check for the added bolt to the trailers tongue.

Since you mention having a good dealer, ask him also for a copy of the Spyder / Trailer / Electronics chart that lists the various combinations possible, and what is required to make the trailer of a certain vintage work with a Spyder of a certain model and vintage. Different combinations have different requirements. I was allowed to get this info so I knew what direction to proceed when I setup our 2012 RT622 with our 2014 RTS. All the correct stuff, correctly wired and grounded has worked well, although, we have shared brake / turn signals, which you do not want.

All the best, however you proceed.

These are the wiring mod instructions. The ground install instructions follow that. For me, the ground was accomplished as a recall.

http://instructions.brp.com/content/instruction-sheet/en_CA/e-instruction-details.html#articleNo=kA0a0000000dnvVCAQ&lang=en_ CA&title=ROADSTER%20KIT%20-%20Trailer%20Conversion%20(2010-2012)&rel_part_number=219400637

http://instructions.brp.com/content/...mber=219400537

[billybovine]

I would agree. Don't worry about the cluster. The isolation module will protect it. If there is a grounding issue. That could blow your isolation module. May I suggest the first trip out. Have someone follow you. If the lights flicker at all. That needs to fixed. The module cannot take being turned on and off a couple hundred times a minute.