-
Stuck in Gear
I have a new 2016 RS (manual transmission) that so far has never been on the road (only 15 miles on odometer). I went to take it out this weekend and couldn't get the gears to change. Sometimes I could get it in 1st, but then couldn't shift or even get back to neutral. If I shut the engine, it frees up. When the engine is off, it shifts fine. I know I can get a shop to pick it up and repair under warranty, but I spoke to Can-Am and they refused to pay to have it picked up (do they think I can drive it in only 1 gear- which one?). Any DIY ideas??
-
Very Active Member
Check the clutch fluid level.
You have free roadside assitance with your warranty. Call them and have them tow it to your dealer.
2018 F3 LIMITED
-
Very Active Member
Bummer...
Start with a check on the oil level... start the engine and let it warm up this will let the clutch plates lubricate if stuck
check the clutch fluid level in the resivoir master cylinder
Although it is strange on such a new model with little use but you never know.
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
-
I have this EXACT same problem with my new-to-me '11 RT (well is sounds exactly the same).
The problem is that the clutch is "dragging"; that is, not dis-engaging completely.
I found that it will shift OK when moving; enough so that I didn't even notice it on either of my test rides.
With the engine on, it is impossible to find neutral but with a LOT of effort it will change gears standing still.
When moving, no problem.
On mine, there is a LOT of free play in the clutch lever before noticing any resistance; there should be almost NONE.
I suppose this could be caused by low clutch fluid but took mine to the shop because if the fluid IS low the reason needs to be discovered and fixed.
P.S. If your clutch lever is nice and firm from the very beginning of the throw, it might be a case of thick oil and running it long enough to get it HOT might help. Then the new clutch might need some "break-in time". It is pretty common for wet clutches to drag a bit when cold......even on older bikes.
Last edited by Easy Rider; 05-22-2017 at 10:13 AM.
-
Active Member
I had this problem on my 2016 and it was the clutch master cylinder. Naturally when it pooped it gunked up the slave cylinder as well. Both were covered under warranty.
-
It's the gunk in your Clutch Master Cylinder (For the 2011 RT...) have you ever changed the fluid?
For the 2016 RD: Could your clutch fluid need to be bled? (Do you see any air bubbles?)
-
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
It's the gunk in your Clutch Master Cylinder (For the 2011 RT...) have you ever changed the fluid?
I just bought it from a dealer a week ago.
It only has 5K miles on it......so I doubt it.
If they actually do something to fix the problem, that should include a fluid change.
If not, I will be finding a different shop.
-
-
Is it only first gear giving you the problem? Would fluid level be affecting all gears? Anyway, if you can get it into 1st, does it shift fine into 2nd and beyond? If the dealer is not far, you might be able to ride it there using 2nd gear and above, and since it's a manual, just clutch in when you need instead of finding neutral at stops.
Last edited by asp125; 05-28-2017 at 11:56 AM.
When life throws you curves, aim for the apex
Current stable: 09 Thruxton / 09 FZ6
Sold List: 97 Ninja500R, 03 SV650K3, 01 Ducati 750Sport Dark, 73 CB350/4, 03 F650GSA, 08 Gixxer600, 03 Gixxer600, 91 VFR750F, 09 KLX250, 06 Thruxton 900, 08 Spyder RS , 12 Street TripleR, 15 RC390, 02 VFR800, 09 KLX250S, 10 F650GS
JLohPhotos
... Motorcycles are kind of like Baskin Robbins... You're looking at 31 flavors of ice cream, don't you kind of want to know what they all taste like?...
-
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|