Stuck in Gear

[BernieB627]

I have a new 2016 RS (manual transmission) that so far has never been on the road (only 15 miles on odometer). I went to take it out this weekend and couldn't get the gears to change. Sometimes I could get it in 1st, but then couldn't shift or even get back to neutral. If I shut the engine, it frees up. When the engine is off, it shifts fine. I know I can get a shop to pick it up and repair under warranty, but I spoke to Can-Am and they refused to pay to have it picked up (do they think I can drive it in only 1 gear- which one?). Any DIY ideas??

[billybovine]

Check the clutch fluid level.

You have free roadside assitance with your warranty. Call them and have them tow it to your dealer.

[Chupaca]

Start with a check on the oil level... start the engine and let it warm up this will let the clutch plates lubricate if stuck
check the clutch fluid level in the resivoir master cylinder
Although it is strange on such a new model with little use but you never know.

[Easy Rider]

I have this EXACT same problem with my new-to-me '11 RT (well is sounds exactly the same).
The problem is that the clutch is "dragging"; that is, not dis-engaging completely.

I found that it will shift OK when moving; enough so that I didn't even notice it on either of my test rides.
With the engine on, it is impossible to find neutral but with a LOT of effort it will change gears standing still.
When moving, no problem.

On mine, there is a LOT of free play in the clutch lever before noticing any resistance; there should be almost NONE.

I suppose this could be caused by low clutch fluid but took mine to the shop because if the fluid IS low the reason needs to be discovered and fixed.

P.S. If your clutch lever is nice and firm from the very beginning of the throw, it might be a case of thick oil and running it long enough to get it HOT might help. Then the new clutch might need some "break-in time". It is pretty common for wet clutches to drag a bit when cold......even on older bikes.

[dieselengine9]

I had this problem on my 2016 and it was the clutch master cylinder. Naturally when it pooped it gunked up the slave cylinder as well. Both were covered under warranty.

[Bob Denman]

It's the gunk in your Clutch Master Cylinder (For the 2011 RT...) have you ever changed the fluid?
For the 2016 RD: Could your clutch fluid need to be bled? (Do you see any air bubbles?)

[Easy Rider]

It's the gunk in your Clutch Master Cylinder (For the 2011 RT...) have you ever changed the fluid?

I just bought it from a dealer a week ago.
It only has 5K miles on it......so I doubt it.

If they actually do something to fix the problem, that should include a fluid change.
If not, I will be finding a different shop.

[Bob Denman]

Check the fluid: it's the easiest thing to look at first!

[asp125]

Is it only first gear giving you the problem? Would fluid level be affecting all gears? Anyway, if you can get it into 1st, does it shift fine into 2nd and beyond? If the dealer is not far, you might be able to ride it there using 2nd gear and above, and since it's a manual, just clutch in when you need instead of finding neutral at stops.

[Easy Rider]

Check the fluid: it's the easiest thing to look at first!

Well yes but just topping up the fluid is NEVER the right "fix" for hydraulic brakes or clutches.......unless maybe they were worked on recently.
A low level for the brakes might just be a sign that the pads are worn out.