Are Spyders super sensitive to road crown?

[south GA Farm Boy]

So after finally straightening out a trans oil filter issue on our new 2016 leftover SE6 F3L, we are now able to ride it a bit. Aside from the immense difference from a motorcycle, my biggest issue is the constant pulling to the right. It honestly detracts from the enjoyment by about 50%. Ive posted and complained already and most people are saying get a ROLO laser done. The nearest one is about three hours away and if this is just the way these Spyders react to road crowning then i dont want to waste a day and the money just to have it still pull to the right on crowned roads. Ive tried swapping out the right wheel from a spare set i have and its basically the same. On perfectly flat roads its hardly there. But almost all roads here are crowned for rain runoff. I find it hard to believe that this is the way it should handle when on crowned roads.
Is this just the way they are? None of my other vehicles do this. Im just trying to decide if im chasing my tail and this is just the way they are or if i should pursue it a bit.

Go the RT thread and read where I posted things about my new 2016 RT Limited, which is only about 6 weeks old! I have mine Rolo laser aligned twice and it still pulls and the handlebars still shake! Some people at the dealerships want to think this is normal, It is not!! I had a 2013 RT Limited ahead of this 2016, and it was perfect, no pulling, no handlebar shaking etc. So read my thread before you spend all the money I have spend, and no we do not have a lemon law on motorcycles in Georgia! Good luck with your problem!!

[Highwayman2013]

Usually the toe is off a little. We had our 2016 F3L aligned and the toe was good but the fronts were not strait with the rear tire causing a slight crabbing effect. Once laser aligned it is a wonderful ride with no pulling or drifting. How much air are you running in the air bag? We are running about 40 psi.

[JayBros]

Yeah i have an appt with the Palmer store already but its a Can AM dealer and i dont think its the ROLO. Thats the place that's about half hour away. Think its worth a gamble.

The Palmer dealer is listed by the Rolo web site as a Rolo using dealership.

[JayBros]

I suggest you check the tire pressure sticker on the frame under the seat and in your operator's manual. Set them to the manufacturer's recommend presasure as a starting point. Then adjust to suit your riding preference. I second the comments that you may have at least one bad front tire. You may also have a problem with the right brake caliper and pads. Your problem is solvable but working through it is definitely frustrating and is compounded by what the dealership is not doing to help with finding the solution.

[Easy Rider]

I don't know of any vehicle that wouldn't drift off a crowned road when letting go of the steering.

A "real" motorcycle won't.......IF you shift your weight on the seat just slightly toward the center of the road.

In my extremely limited time on a Spyder, I find that it is "sensitive" to every little imperfection in the road......because the 3-point stance causes the drivers seat to "pitch" in a manner that is going to take me a LOT of time to get used to.
It is also hard for me to not react to wind buffeting but my "two wheel" programmed brain doesn't know what to do......so it just feels funny......and essentially doing nothing seems to be the proper reaction to these little shakes.

Things are getting better as the miles accumulate though.

[Spyder_Cowgirl]

We have a few (actually several) really high crowns on some of the backroads around here and I have found with both my 2012 RT and 2016 RT that I have to shift my weight ever so slightly towards the crown. Once that is done, no longer have to fight the tendency to drift with the crown. On a straight flat surface, like a parking lot, both Spyders track true (with or without hands).

So, while an alignment may help your situation ... it may not solve it until you learn where to position yourself in relation to the crown.

All the best .... Ann

[Slowpoke387]

We have a few (actually several) really high crowns on some of the backroads around here and I have found with both my 2012 RT and 2016 RT that I have to shift my weight ever so slightly towards the crown. Once that is done, no longer have to fight the tendency to drift with the crown. On a straight flat surface, like a parking lot, both Spyders track true (with or without hands).

So, while an alignment may help your situation ... it may not solve it until you learn where to position yourself in relation to the crown.

All the best .... Ann

I will have to try that although the logic is lost on me tbh. I can see how this would work on two wheels but on three i cant see how that helps. I hope it does lol, im just the analytical type who likes to know how stuff works. Unfortunately so far the only way to fight the crown for me has been to ride the yellow lines with the left front wheel right on the crown. And i dont like that so i only do it if its a long open road with no oncoming traffic.
Thanks for the tip, def going to try it tonight

[zbunker]

So after finally straightening out a trans oil filter issue on our new 2016 leftover SE6 F3L, we are now able to ride it a bit. Aside from the immense difference from a motorcycle, my biggest issue is the constant pulling to the right. It honestly detracts from the enjoyment by about 50%. Ive posted and complained already and most people are saying get a ROLO laser done. The nearest one is about three hours away and if this is just the way these Spyders react to road crowning then i dont want to waste a day and the money just to have it still pull to the right on crowned roads. Ive tried swapping out the right wheel from a spare set i have and its basically the same. On perfectly flat roads its hardly there. But almost all roads here are crowned for rain runoff. I find it hard to believe that this is the way it should handle when on crowned roads.
Is this just the way they are? None of my other vehicles do this. Im just trying to decide if im chasing my tail and this is just the way they are or if i should pursue it a bit.

Hi
Here's my story. I had a new 2013 RT. Right outta the box, I had steering issues. Toe out was real bad. I was all over the road. A laser alignment cured it. Upgraded to a 2014 RT and found a drift to the right issue. The dealer tried all sorts of stuff. Lazer alignment, swap wheels, I even tried a coupla extra lbs. in the right tire, you name it, all no good.
I took the machine to the guy who did the 2013 RT. Turns out the BUDS system detected the spyder's steering sensor indicated when going straight the sensor said I was steering to the LEFT. The alignment was adjusted to the right. Don't know how he dealer missed that.
Once discovered, problem corrected. The moral, research a good machanic. Even if you gotta ride to get there.
I would suggest an alignment along with a BUDS check.
Good luck
Ron

[marty1096]

awful oem tire on rear. last June my significant other drove my new spyder home as i followed. He was 65 then and has been riding two wheels since 12, escorted funerals for years, rode harleys, gold wings, ducatti's and victory's. I on the other hand rode 2 wheels for only a year when the spyder was purchased... after riding 40 miles home most of it freeway, he told me in no uncertain terms he would never ride my spyder again. it was all over the road...wouldnt go straight......last week was the first time he was on it as a passenger to go pick up his freshly painted victory. he told me even as a passenger he didnt like the feel when turning corners. So...will it follow the crown in the road yes, after 11,000 mile I have to pick a spot in my lane on the freeway where it wont wander or act squirrley and stay there. I noticed this year however the vibration was getting really bad...got worse as the rear tire approached needed replacement. Installed Yokohama S drive tire on rear today and noticeable difference. the only advice I can give your wife is to join "girls on spyders" on FB and read and ask questions and ryde the bike(if necessary just around the neighborhood), the more you ryde the more comfortable it will be....a person riding for you is not going to give you the experience you need to know when someone is telling you some bull**** about your bike....because you will know your bike....every body rides differently. I advise a new spyder rider to ride at least 20 min everyday for 30 days straight then come back and tell me what you think then. trial and error gave me learning experience. We just had an 84 year old grandmother join...I think she would like the group its national and over 3000 women strong...she can ask questions without fear.

[SteveLaoyster]

For those who would like to know more, here is a link to an old thread on laser alignment.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...aser-Alignment

And here also.

http://www.lamonstergarage.com/spyder-laser-alignment/

[Spyder_Cowgirl]

I will have to try that although the logic is lost on me tbh. I can see how this would work on two wheels but on three i cant see how that helps. I hope it does lol, im just the analytical type who likes to know how stuff works. Unfortunately so far the only way to fight the crown for me has been to ride the yellow lines with the left front wheel right on the crown. And i dont like that so i only do it if its a long open road with no oncoming traffic.
Thanks for the tip, def going to try it tonight

With my background in Software Engineering, I too, am and analytical type. I also rode on two wheels for about 15 years (head on collision in 1993, walked away, kept me out of the wind for almost 20 years). I did not have to break the counter steer habit as it had been too long since on two. It did, however, take a long time to stop grabbing for the clutch and brake. What I do know is that the spyder is VERY sensitive to weight shifts, so moving to the upside of the crown actually works. I actually like to have fun when we are riding on the freeway and have a lane change to do. Normally, one simply steers the spyder (very subtle) to perform the change ... similar to doing so in a car. I no longer do that. For a gradual lane change, I simply lean in the direction I want to go and the spyder "follows" me. I suppose I could also, subconsciously, be giving it some steering input .... but I am more focused on the lean so I don't notice the steering input.

Try it sometime, you will be amazed at how nimble the spyder really is ..... all the best .... Ann

[Slowpoke387]

Def a ton of good info here. This is a generous bunch and we def appreciate it. Ive been riding it here n there getting to know it better while we wait for an alignment in two weeks, and ive been consistently finding that this thing doesn't like to lollygag around in the lower rpm's. And it certainly doesnt like the rpm's to drop so low on decel that it has to downshift on its own. Thats just a herky jerky affair at best. After throwing motorcycle logic on the back burner ive been discovering that you can rip around turns and its not going to bite ya. A big complaint from the wife was how jerky it downshifts on its own. Ive found that its best to manually downshift while its still in the meat of the trailing power. Downshifts are so much smoother. Something to show her tomorrow lol. It just doesnt like to be babied, the harder you ride it the better it gets for the most part.
As far as leaning into the crown i had no luck. No effect at all, at least around town. I'll continue to play around with that after the alignment.
The buds/steering sensor thing is a great suggestion and i will certainly ask the dealer who does the alignment to check that too.
It definitely gets more fun as you get to know what to expect and explore how it reacts. If we can tackle the drifting issue this will be a super fun ride. I just need her to log some miles on it and get more comfortable. Definitely agree with Marty here, the more you ride it the better it gets. Now the wife needs to do it for herself.

[pushrod243]

It definitely grows on you and once you throw away all you know about riding a motorcycle it comes more natural. I love my spyders and feel much more stable riding them with one arm than my FXR. I cant seem to give up the FXR either even though I spend 95% of my riding on 3 wheels. I hope the alignment fixes your drifting....I will be anxiously awaiting your results...

[007james]

This is an interesting Thread I might be able to add a little experience to. I just traded in my 2012 RT Limited with 55,400 miles on the clock, for a new, left over RT Limited SE 6. I had 47,000 miles worth of shaking, wandering , to both right or left, with my 2012, and never had it Laser alligned, because my Dealer said the Factory method of allignment was acceptable, and they would not invest in the ROLO Laser System. After wearing out my first 2 sets of front Kendas on the inside at 12-13,000 miles each, I started using Bridgstone car tires, and increased the pressure from 15 lbs. to 25 lbs. which made a world of difference in handling and on the corners, but they still were wearing on both insides . On tne rear tire, after only getting 8300 miles on the Kenda, I started using the Khumos that gave me 15,000 miles. I was on my third Khumo that had 8000 miles on it when I traded. Now, here is an important point. I finally caved in, and got my 2012 Laser Alligned by Star City Power Sports in Roanoke, Virginia, at 47,000 miles on the clock, and what a difference in handling! My front Bridgestone tires were already worn real badly on the insides, but started correcting immediatly, by wearing normal, but I kept getting DPS Limp Mode Nanny Alerts while the new toe in setting kept fighting the previous wear angle, but after a couple of thousand miles, the DPS check alert quit, and by the time I traded the 2012, it handled great, with no further vibration, shaking, wandering, all because I was too stubborn to get the ROLO Allignment, because my former Dealer didn't recomment doing it. Now, fast forward to my 2016. I had the Laser Alignment done on the 2016 and had the front wheels spun balanced before I took delivery. But I still had a bad vibration between 50-65 MPH. So, my Dealer took it back in, and rechecked the Toe in, and reset it, and it has improved, but the vibration and shaking is still there around 60 MPH. My Dealer test rode it, against another new Demo RT, and said they both feel the same. So, I believe the Dealer has done all they can, so I will live with it . The tires are all Kendra, and are most likely the problem. The fronts have 20 psi and the rear had 30 psi in them. When I replace them, I will replace with the same as I did on my 2012, i.e. Bridgestones in tne front and a Khumo on the rear. The 2016 tracks straight, and handles fairly well, but not as well as my 2012 did, after all of the adjustments and tweaking. Hope this might help those who are still resisting the Laser Alignment. It DID make a world of difference on my Spyders.

[Rogue Hawk]

My Spyder is partial to tiaras. It finds crowns to be to heavy for everyday princess duties.

[IGETAROUND]

Not so much looking to ride with no hands as looking to be able to relax and enjoy he scenery. Cant really do that if youre constantly having to keep the thing going straight. Riding loose and letting it do its thing helps but tell that to my wife. She hates it right now. Doesnt even want to ride it now, and i got it for her, not me. Going to take it out with the higher rear air pressure in a bit to see how that affected it.
Well ive beaten this topic to death, we will ride it more, get an alignment, and check in after some time. Thanks for everyone's input and thoughts.

I don't ride your model; however my ? to you is how many miles have you under your belt on the Spyder. Same ? for the wife. If you have less than 1000 miles give it some time. The sensitivity to steering input of these vehicles is truly amazing!!

As mentioned the front tire pressure needs to be as close to identical side to side as you can make it and I would respectfully suggest you not go above 18 to 20 psi in the front. If you run 25 and up in the back; you will more than likely experience wet road traction issues.

Almost all spyders need a laser alignment; according to the spyder experts less than 1% are properly aligned when delivered to the owners. It does make a marked difference in required corrective input crowned road irrespective.

These are a pleasure to pilot when set up properly; they are a nightmare until then!! The first $ invested in making it yours is to get a ROLO laser alignment by someone who does a lot of them. That would be Ann and Joe Meyer or Spyderpops or the gentleman in Houston (sorry old fart moment on names).

Then get some miles under your belt 1-2 thousand and I believe that you will have a different opinion than you and your spouse currently have. Just MHO

Al in Kazoo with 40 K and counting

After looking at your home state; you might want to take a trip to NESTLE's (sp) in upstate New York, they will treat you right and get your ride "squared away " properly. Some one will come by and spell the shop name properly for you, be patient please.

Al

[crna59]

I am a MSF Instructor here in WA State and I'm constantly switching from 2-wheels to 3-wheels. I have to get a whole different attitude when I jump on the Spyder. I'm still finding myself "fighting" the thing for the first 2-3 miles and then I start relaxing and riding much differently. Doing the weight shift and pressing on the opposite bar helps greatly. I thought it was sensitive to crowns, but it was just me!!

[SpyderSteveFL]

It's not mentioned much but I think zbunker is on the right track. It's called DPS and it is a computer setting. For some reason this is off alot. You need a good tech that really knows how to use BUDS and understands the settings. Have a good shop check DPS FIRST. After you know DPS is good you can check alignment with ROLO - usually if its not needed there is no charge.

[jmatera]

So after finally straightening out a trans oil filter issue on our new 2016 leftover SE6 F3L, we are now able to ride it a bit. Aside from the immense difference from a motorcycle, my biggest issue is the constant pulling to the right. It honestly detracts from the enjoyment by about 50%. Ive posted and complained already and most people are saying get a ROLO laser done. The nearest one is about three hours away and if this is just the way these Spyders react to road crowning then i dont want to waste a day and the money just to have it still pull to the right on crowned roads. Ive tried swapping out the right wheel from a spare set i have and its basically the same. On perfectly flat roads its hardly there. But almost all roads here are crowned for rain runoff. I find it hard to believe that this is the way it should handle when on crowned roads.
Is this just the way they are? None of my other vehicles do this. Im just trying to decide if im chasing my tail and this is just the way they are or if i should pursue it a bit.

I've noticed this too. My Spyder is definitely affected by roads that are banked or crown a little more than others it's because of the wide stance. I've had my spyder for a year now and ride every weekend, it didn't take long to used to it. I try to ride to the left more and it makes a difference.

[Slowpoke387]

I've noticed this too. My Spyder is definitely affected by roads that are banked or crown a little more than others it's because of the wide stance. I've had my spyder for a year now and ride every weekend, it didn't take long to used to it. I try to ride to the left more and it makes a difference.

This def does help, ive been experimenting with that. The advice here is correct for the most part, the more you ride it and get used to things, the better it feels. We're just hoping to dial it in a bit better and then just enjoy it. Corbin heated seat, taller windscreen, and cell phone mount are all in the works.

[PMK]

The road crown can make it pull, but usually there is an easy to find sweet spot that works.

If you are at all mechanical, get two yardsticks and 4 bricks or similar. Place the yardsticks against the tires while resting the yardsticks on bricks.

Using two tape measures, with a person on the spyder, check the toe in or toe out. With a person on the seat, it should be about 3/16".

Our 14 has never been laser aligned. Done similar to what I described. Oem was pretty screwed up and handling was not good. With the setting above she runs very true and will go hands off at well above highway speed limits.

How does the bike feel in a constant radius corner. Do you notice any tendency to tuck or dart around, especially to the inside of the curve?

I thought before I suggested having the steering sensor nulled while they had the Spyder. Being an electric power assist, if it thinks you are trying to turnit will. However, based on how you describe no issues on flat ground, that may be ok.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Even new Ford pickups need getting used to. My brother bought a 2017 F-250. It has steering by wire. He felt it suddenly pull to the side on two occasions. He thought the steering was screwy and took it in to get it fixed. Turned out the computer was just compensating for the crown in the road! All he had to do was get used to how it works!

[Slowpoke387]

The road crown can make it pull, but usually there is an easy to find sweet spot that works.

If you are at all mechanical, get two yardsticks and 4 bricks or similar. Place the yardsticks against the tires while resting the yardsticks on bricks.

Using two tape measures, with a person on the spyder, check the toe in or toe out. With a person on the seat, it should be about 3/16".

Our 14 has never been laser aligned. Done similar to what I described. Oem was pretty screwed up and handling was not good. With the setting above she runs very true and will go hands off at well above highway speed limits.

How does the bike feel in a constant radius corner. Do you notice any tendency to tuck or dart around, especially to the inside of the curve?

I thought before I suggested having the steering sensor nulled while they had the Spyder. Being an electric power assist, if it thinks you are trying to turnit will. However, based on how you describe no issues on flat ground, that may be ok.

So to answer your question, if its a right hand sweeper it feels great. Relieves the constant pressure needed on the right bar to keep it straight. I love right hand sweepers right now lol. Left hand sweepers really push it to the right, which I'm sort of expecting due to these things not leaning over like a bike. Slight darting but my gut tells me that its just me getting used to it.

[Spyder 42]

FWIW, SWMBO's RTL was hard to manage in the curves. It tracked straight on flat surfaces so I was st a loss. A Lazer alignment showed that the left wheel was dead on but the right was toed out by 1/4". Best $100 spent on the RTL.

[Slowpoke387]

FWIW, SWMBO's RTL was hard to manage in the curves. It tracked straight on flat surfaces so I was st a loss. A Lazer alignment showed that the left wheel was dead on but the right was toed out by 1/4". Best $100 spent on the RTL.

Very interesting. Well it goes in on Friday so I'm hoping they find something similar. nothing worse than being told its normal and its me lol. Cant wait.