Spyder RT anti sway bar

[Black Pig]

I recall reading somewhere this is a half decent upgrade for the F3.

Can anyone advise me on this?

[No 2817]

I recall reading somewhere this is a half decent upgrade for the F3.

Can anyone advise me on this?

That's what I used on my 2016 F3-T. I just drilled out the Bushings to accommodate the larger 5/8" diameter. Or just order the larger bushings. ( cheaper way to go and gets the job done )

Chris

[Black Pig]

Thanks for that Chris, Does this..

s-l1600.jpg

Look like an RT anti sway bar?

Looks more like a GS/RS to me

[loisk]

I have rt take-off on my f3s.
Husband has my old st bajaron swaybar on his f3s.
Sorry I haven't ridden his to compare ...
Oh both have bajaron heim links.

[Highwayman2013]

Thanks for that Chris, Does this..

s-l1600.jpg

Look like an RT anti sway bar?

Looks more like a GS/RS to me

From a pre 2013 RT maybe.

[Pirate looks at --]

I would suggest that you just order an F3 swaybar from BajaRon!

[Chupaca]

From what you can see here the BajaRon bar has improved the handling of all years and models of the spyder. I would recommend it to anyone who wants better handling and rydes a spirited ryde. If you are a very conservative ryder the effect may be much less but regardless you will notice the difference and has made many get more out of their ryde...

[nhoj]

I recall reading somewhere this is a half decent upgrade for the F3.

We added a Ron Bar to my wife's 2015RT and then put that takeoff bar on my F3 using the bushings from the RT as well. Works very well.

[Rattlebars]

I would suggest that you just order an F3 swaybar from BajaRon!

+1
like night and day. >CLICK ME<

[Leland]

+1
like night and day. >CLICK ME<

BajaRon's sway bar was worth the money! Especially considering you get billet aluminum Heim rod ends links. The BRP plastic links look very weak and fragile.
.
I agree with Rattlebars. He wrote up his impression on his website above. He makes some great comments that agree with my observations exactly. Also lowering the foot brake pedal makes the bike much safer and comfortable to ride.

[Black Pig]

I hear what everyone says but the Baja Ron bar is quite an expensive option when you factor in import taxes, handli g fees etch. Whereas an RT bar is just a few quid.

[loisk]

I was driving around Scotland a few years' ago and wishing I was on my spyder - some brilliant roads and scenery.
Could you try the rt bar for a few quid and see how it goes?
Being on the other side of the globe, I hear what you're saying about cost...

[ABQSpyder]

I hear what everyone says but the Baja Ron bar is quite an expensive option when you factor in import taxes, handli g fees etch. Whereas an RT bar is just a few quid.

Spend a few quid and go with the RT bar.

[Rattlebars]

I hear what everyone says but the Baja Ron bar is quite an expensive option when you factor in import taxes, handli g fees etch. Whereas an RT bar is just a few quid.

You do need to get the solid bajaron heim links. I'm of the opinion that they do half the improvement properties.

[Black Pig]

Spend a few quid and go with the RT bar.

Yeah this is what I want to do and found an RT bar advertised, however, it looks like a GS/RS bar to me, so I don't want to import this thing to find it doesn't fit.

The F3 bar has 90 dergree(ish) ends.

This is the one advertised as an RT bar, I don't think so.

[BajaRon]

Yeah this is what I want to do and found an RT bar advertised, however, it looks like a GS/RS bar to me, so I don't want to import this thing to find it doesn't fit.

The F3 bar has 90 dergree(ish) ends.

This is the one advertised as an RT bar, I don't think so.

This bar will not work on your F3 or any other 2013+ Can-Am Spyder. This is a 2008-2012 bar. They will not interchange.

[Black Pig]

Thanks for that Ron, greatly appreciated.

[BajaRon]

Thanks for that Ron, greatly appreciated.

No problem. I have been following this thread for awhile. I try not to post because you're doing your research and I think it a bit tacky to try and market my product stuff in a thread. But I do a lot of International sales. And I know how it is to get the wrong thing. Just didn't want you to make a costly and frustrating mistake. It's easily done. I hate learning the hard way and I assume that goes for everyone else.

You are doing your diligent research and I applaud you for that. A quick trigger is not always the wisest way to go.

By the way. The 2008-2012 bars (as pictured in your post) will look identical. You would need to know the diameter to verify RS or RT application. Same goes for the 2013-2018 bars. They will also look identical. You will need to know the diameter to know if it is the correct bar (RT).

Many assume that because the OEM RT bar is 5/8" diameter. And my F3 bar kit is also 5/8" diameter. That they will provide similar results. But there are 3 parameters which make up a sway bar's characteristics. Diameter being only 1. My bar kit is made of a different, higher strength spring steel than the stock bars. So the same diameter will provide a stronger sway bar. Arm length is also a factor. So you can't go simply by diameter to determine the end result when comparing sway bars.

[Black Pig]

Funnily enough I had just tracked down a website from one of the UK distributors that give the parts list for all of the Spyders with the stock numbers and prices.

So your post confirmed what I was looking at simultaneously.

Saved me a few quid there, thanks ever so much.

[pauly1]

Steel is steel and has a modulus of elasticity of 30,000,000 psi (29 to 30.5M). High strength steel changes the yield point, or strength, not the spring constant. The lever arm will change the response of the bars as well as the angle of attachment. The RT bar improves stiffness by about 40% over the stock F3 bar (nearly half again stiffer). I personally don't like to get too stiff otherwise one loses the "independent" front suspension.

A 2014 or newer RT bar with the mounting blocks will fit on an F3. A new RT sway bar from BRP was about $65 USD a few years ago. I also installed steel heimlink joints to replace the stock plastic links: they don't look as classy as the billet aluminum ones, but they are functional. I used a 5/16 male and female heimjoint end and adjusted the length to meet the OEM plastic length.

Wayne

[Black Pig]

Top answer, cheers for that..

[BajaRon]

Steel is steel and has a modulus of elasticity of 30,000,000 psi (29 to 30.5M). High strength steel changes the yield point, or strength, not the spring constant. The lever arm will change the response of the bars as well as the angle of attachment. The RT bar improves stiffness by about 40% over the stock F3 bar (nearly half again stiffer). I personally don't like to get too stiff otherwise one loses the "independent" front suspension.

A 2014 or newer RT bar with the mounting blocks will fit on an F3. A new RT sway bar from BRP was about $65 USD a few years ago. I also installed steel heimlink joints to replace the stock plastic links: they don't look as classy as the billet aluminum ones, but they are functional. I used a 5/16 male and female heimjoint end and adjusted the length to meet the OEM plastic length.

Wayne

Steel is not steel. Otherwise, everything steel would react the same. There are different metallurgical alloys (combination of differing amounts of different elements) which produce different characteristics used for different purposes. Not all steel is spring steel, just to name one difference. And not all spring steel is the same either.

It is not uncommon to find 2 springs of the same diameter which function very differently. Ink pen springs are an easy example. Though they may be of the same diameter with the same number of coils. One may be much easier to compress than another. Some springs will lose their ability to resist compression or extension more easily and fail to return to their original length sooner than others as well.

But the real question here is: Will the OEM RT mod give comparable handling improvement when compared to the BajaRon bar kit? And the answer is no. Though the OEM RT bar mod does produce noticeable improvement. It is not comparable to the improvement you will get from the BajaRon bar. Believe me, if it were anywhere near the same I would quit producing the bar kit for these model Spyders.

There have been a number of F3/RS/RSS/ST customers who started out with the OEM RT bar mod, who have since replaced them with my bar kit. They report a noticeable improvement.

I resist posting replies like this because it comes off as a tacky sales pitch. I am sincere when I say that if the OEM RT bar is the way you want to go, that is absolutely fine with me. It certainly is less expensive and will give you the noticeable improvement others have reported. My only purpose here is to set the record straight so that people can make an informed decision.

And though it is true that you can have a 'Too Stiff' sway bar. In all the years I've been producing these suspension components. I have never received a complaint that my bars were too stiff.

My wish is that each person has all the information necessary so that they are thrilled with whatever they decide to do. It's all about enjoying the ride and the machine and doing it your way. My products are not the only option. They are just another option.

[monkeyboymorton]

The RT bar gets another vote from me. Got one for free from a fellow member whilst on holiday in Florida. Makes a big difference compared to stock.

I didn't feel a need to change the plastic end links - the exact same part is on the RT so if they are good enough for a bike with +25% more weight (passenger factored in) they are fine on my F3 solo.

So if you can find one for next to nothing (from an RT owner who has upgraded) go for it.

I'm not saying the Ron Bar won't be better, I'm sure it is, but it all comes down to a cost-benefit analysis. £0 vs £3-£400 = no brainer!!

Are you a member on the ukspyderweb facebook site? If so put up a message on there and see if any RT owners have one lying around. Might also be worth trying 158 / OHG to see if they've fitted a Ron Bar for someone and have one lying around.

[pauly1]

Steel is not steel. Otherwise, everything steel would react the same. There are different metallurgical alloys (combination of differing amounts of different elements) used for different purposes. It is not uncommon to find 2 springs of the same diameter which function very differently. Ink pen springs are an easy example. Though they may be of the same diameter material with similar number of coils. One may be much easier to compress than another. Some springs will lose their ability to resist compression or extension more easily and fail to return to their original length sooner than others as well. ...

First, I respect that you sell excellent products. However, the spring in steel is an engineering property call Modulus of Elasticity, closely associated with Young's modulus. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elastic_modulus). What changes in high strength steels is the yield stress of the material. Dead soft AISI 1018 cold rolled steel and AISI A2 tool steel hardened to 62 Rc both have the same spring constant. If a material is stressed below their yield stress, it will return to the starting position; if stressed beyond the yield limit, it will take on a permanent set, e.g., bend. Hardened steel, and high strength steel, have higher yield stress than does common steels but they flex at the same spring constant (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/y...us-d_773.htmlZ). The pen springs is an excellent example.

Given the same diameter wire and coil dimensions, the only difference being one is harder or of a high strength steel alloy, they will have similar compression values (wt/unit displacement) until the lower strength material begins to deform. The higher strength material will return to its original length, and furthermore, could have been displaced (compressed) more without damage.

Respectfully,
Wayne

[StickerPatch]

First, I respect that you sell excellent products. However, the spring in steel is an engineering property call Modulus of Elasticity, closely associated with Young's modulus. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elastic_modulus). What changes in high strength steels is the yield stress of the material. Dead soft AISI 1018 cold rolled steel and AISI A2 tool steel hardened to 62 Rc both have the same spring constant. If a material is stressed below their yield stress, it will return to the starting position; if stressed beyond the yield limit, it will take on a permanent set, e.g., bend. Hardened steel, and high strength steel, have higher yield stress than does common steels but they flex at the same spring constant (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/y...us-d_773.htmlZ). The pen springs is an excellent example.

Given the same diameter wire and coil dimensions, the only difference being one is harder or of a high strength steel alloy, they will have similar compression values (wt/unit displacement) until the lower strength material begins to deform. The higher strength material will return to its original length, and furthermore, could have been displaced (compressed) more without damage.

Respectfully,
Wayne

I think the one thing you are missing that Baja Ron mentioned is "alloyed"...you are correct about steel being steel but when you start alloying steel..i.e. mild steel and chrome moly steel you have very different steels..I used to build off road cars and for years the industry felt mild steel was OK..you look now and all you see is chrome moly period..I could take it further but won't..