Smoothspyder vs Roadster Renovations Belt Tensioners

[Y Rider]

I have a 2011 RT Limited with a Smoothspyder belt tensioner installed. I have had it on for a few years now and it seems to help reduce belt vibrations. This device is designed to place tension on the bottom of the belt. I now see that Roadster Renovations has a belt tensioner that is designed to place tension on the top of the belt. I was just wondering if tensioning the top of the belt would have better results than the bottom of the belt. Has any tried using both types or have thoughts on which method would be better? Would using both be a bad idea?

[Devious56]

Yes, I have a 2015 RT Limited, and took my Smooth Spyder tensioner off, after trying the one from Roadster Renovations. Doc Humphreys unit puts pressure on the top of the belt, weighs a lot less, and puts less pressure on the belt. And I think, it works a lot better. I've had it on almost 5,000 miles now and it still looks like new.

David VonStein

[Bob Denman]

Doc's tensioner uses a dual-bearing setup in the roller; do you know what's inside the SmoothSpyder version?

BRP's tensioner uses only a single bearing...

[Cleg]

Yes, I have a 2015 RT Limited, and took my Smooth Spyder tensioner off, after trying the one from Roadster Renovations. Doc Humphreys unit puts pressure on the top of the belt, weighs a lot less, and puts less pressure on the belt. And I think, it works a lot better. I've had it on almost 5,000 miles now and it still looks like new.

David VonStein

As I recall, Doc's tensioner requires a part from BRP. Am I correct or is there a newer version then the one I ordered?

[Roadster Renovations]

As I recall, Doc's tensioner requires a part from BRP. Am I correct or is there a newer version then the one I ordered?

.
.
I hate wasting parts. When we realized that the BRP idler might be an issue since it only had one small bearing, we did not want the folks that had bought the RTBK adaptor to be left out and having to start from scratch. So, we actually ended up with 6 total adaptions including the original one. This way, no matter if it's a RT or F3, whether you have part of the kit and want to upgrade or want to upgrade the existing one, we have a kit that covers every situation.

You must view this page with a big computer. It will not display correctly on a smart phone. Read the captions and it should help you to decide what you need.

http://dochumphreys.wixsite.com/road...amper-products

I am waiting until the end of the season and then plan on doing a vibration damper mileage rollcall. We have 2500 miles on the F3 and 3500 miles on the RT. So far...

[Y Rider]

Doc's tensioner uses a dual-bearing setup in the roller; do you know what's inside the SmoothSpyder version?

BRP's tensioner uses only a single bearing...

I don't know if the Smoothspyder tensioner has dual bearings but it seems to turn smoothly and doesn't add much noise to the ride except for the noise from the roller on the top of the ribbed belt. I was just wondering if anyone performed any tests to prove one method was better than the other.

[PMK]

Doc's tensioner uses a dual-bearing setup in the roller; do you know what's inside the SmoothSpyder version?

BRP's tensioner uses only a single bearing...

When I was researching tensioners years ago, prior to the BRP tensioner / damper as they call it, and prior to Roadster Renovations, the SmoothSpyder was my main focus.

In the literature from SmoothSpyder, and obviously apparent from their photos, the SmoothYder utilizes a roller and tensioning device, that is probably sourced from a company that designs and builds belt tensioning devices. The means to allow this tensioner to fit the Spyder is the design and production by SmoothSpyder.

The SmoothSpyder roller and even the tensioning arm and spring almost appear the same as the one on our Ford van.

I have had that tensioner on the Ford van begin to squeal at over 160,000 miles. The Ford van roller is made from steel. The diameter is reasonably sized, but not small, and there is one bearing. The larger roller is needed for two reasons, first the roller rpm is reduced, second the route of the belt, requires the larger diameter to lessen bending the belt around a tight radius which would cause premature belt failure.

None of the Spyder tensioners / dampers wrap the belt around the roller as in the van or automotive applications.

[Devious56]

I don't know if the Smoothspyder tensioner has dual bearings but it seems to turn smoothly and doesn't add much noise to the ride except for the noise from the roller on the top of the ribbed belt. I was just wondering if anyone performed any tests to prove one method was better than the other.

This is my humble opinion, formed from having the Smooth Spyder tensioner on my RT for about 11,000 miles, and now have had Roadster Renovations on for close to 4,500 miles. The SS unit is a true belt tensioner, very similar to what is being used on todays cars, quite robust in construction, and not too long ago, SS commented that they may have overbuilt the tensioner when they designed it. The RR unit is more of a harmonic balancer, and puts very little pressure on the top of the belt, but seems to work better in the overall performance of the Spyder, in my case, getting rid of vibrations that I wasn't aware were there. Both units, in my case, show no appreciable wear in the mileage I've put on them. Hope this help somewhat, but feel free to PM me if there is anything specific I can help you will.

David VonStein

[bmwlarry]

Doc
I have checked what is avail and am confused. I have bought the BRP plastic arm as well as your RT adapter for the 15 RT. I have not installed anything yet. I assume the right kit to buy is the kit #2-RT. Is this correct?
Larry

.
.
I hate wasting parts. When we realized that the BRP idler might be an issue since it only had one small bearing, we did not want the folks that had bought the RTBK adaptor to be left out and having to start from scratch. So, we actually ended up with 6 total adaptions including the original one. This way, no matter if it's a RT or F3, whether you have part of the kit and want to upgrade or want to upgrade the existing one, we have a kit that covers every situation.

You must view this page with a big computer. It will not display correctly on a smart phone. Read the captions and it should help you to decide what you need.

http://dochumphreys.wixsite.com/road...amper-products

I am waiting until the end of the season and then plan on doing a vibration damper mileage rollcall. We have 2500 miles on the F3 and 3500 miles on the RT. So far...

[papanorm]

I want to chime in with my Smooth Spyder experience on my 2016 F3 LTD. I ordered and installed a SmoothSpyder when my bike was new. The vibrations were awful. I worked with Jim to test these for the new model. I can report that about 80% vibrations were eliminated, except for some in the 65 to 70 mph range. Kudos to Jim for developing a high quality product designed to last the life of your bike.
My revelation came when I got rid of all the Kenda's and discovered 99% of the vibration gone while reducing the tensioner from 11lbs. To 10 lbs.

[ravseren]

I have both on my 2012 RTS SE5 Ltd and I am VERY HAPPY!
Ravseren

[Roadster Renovations]

Doc
I have checked what is avail and am confused. I have bought the BRP plastic arm as well as your RT adapter for the 15 RT. I have not installed anything yet. I assume the right kit to buy is the kit #2-RT. Is this correct?
Larry

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No, if you have the BRP unit and the RTBK unit and wish to upgrade you just need a kit #1 RT. You will use all of the BRP and RTBK parts minus the plastic arm and their pulley. Make sure you use the new bolt and shim for the kit #1. Do not reuse their nut and bolt.