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1330 Cam Sensor
Anybody tackled this yet? Looks pretty straightforward to me.
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Cam Sensor ordered. We will see what we will see!
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Easy
On our Alaska trip, Dave had one fail. Went to the dealer, none in stock. There was a motor on a stand as a display, and the tech boosted that one, put it on Dave's bike, and off we went!!
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Originally Posted by cptjam
On our Alaska trip, Dave had one fail. Went to the dealer, none in stock. There was a motor on a stand as a display, and the tech boosted that one, put it on Dave's bike, and off we went!!
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I was hoping that BUDS wouldn't need hooked up just to replace the sensor. Buddy has a '16 F3T with that problem. If this works, I will order one to leave in the on byke tools. Same sensor fits every 1330, so it will be a spare for both bykes.
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Just out curiosity what "error code" comes up, so I know what to look out for.
Chris
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by No 2817
Just out curiosity what "error code" comes up, so I know what to look out for.
Chris
Spyder Diagnostic Codes - P0340
Error on camshaft
position sensor signal
Disconnected sensor
Blown fuse
Defective CAPS,
damaged circuit wires,
damaged connector or
damaged ECM output pins.
Trigger wheel missing
or in incorrect position
on intake camshaft
Make sure sensor
connector is fully inserted.
Measure voltage between
harness connector CAPS-3
and ground (expected
value: 11 to 13 volts).
Measure resistance from
connector: ECMA-E2 to CAPS-2
(expected value: < 2 ohms).
Measure resistance from
connector: ECMA-D4 to CAPS-1
(expected value: < 2 ohms).
We should have it in a couple of days. We will see then.
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Cam sensor
Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys
Cam Sensor ordered. We will see what we will see!
Doc would you please post the part number for the cam sensor for the 1330 engine and where you obtained it.
Thanks
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Originally Posted by Steamer
Doc would you please post the part number for the cam sensor for the 1330 engine and where you obtained it.
Thanks
http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oempa...40/valve-train
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Item #28. Same part all 1330's, all years.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys
Item 29 you mean? Comes with a new o ring?
AKA Jud Smales, Four Year Spyder Ryder!
"Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati"
The Critter 2016 RT-S
Cat Bypass from Lamonster
BajaRon Sway Bar
Hella dual horns with relay
BRP Hitch with trailer module
Foam Grips
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Originally Posted by SteveLaoyster
Item 29 you mean? Comes with a new o ring?
Sorry, yeah #29. Not sure about the O ring. Should be getting it in the net day or two....
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Why doesn't your friend with the 16 take it to the dealer for warranty repair?
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Thank you for supplying this information. Once again, this site is invaluable.
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Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01
Why doesn't your friend with the 16 take it to the dealer for warranty repair?
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His desuctable is $50, which is the cost of the part. Since it's our first one, the install is free. He did not want to drag it up there and wait 3 weeks for the same money.
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Very Active Member
OK, we got the sensor in and installed. Code did not clear so off to the dealer...will advise when we find out what is going on.
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Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys
OK, we got the sensor in and installed. Code did not clear so off to the dealer...will advise when we find out what is going on.
Check the wiring. An open circuit to the sensor will give the same code. Crankshaft position sensor is a possible cause also. The wheel on the camshaft may be kapooie.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
Check the wiring. An open circuit to the sensor will give the same code. Crankshaft position sensor is a possible cause also. The wheel on the camshaft may be kapooie.
We were kinda wondering that also. I felt in the hole with my little finger and it appeared the reticulater ring was not square with the hole.
Byke is less than 6 months' old. Problem started when both battery cables came loose. Was not prepped correctly. Overfilled with oil also. That was the first problem. Now this. He is not a happy camper at this point. I'm thinking that the loose connection caused a surge, which could have caused all manner of problems.
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Alright, like Paul Harvey says, Here is the rest of the story. When a cam sensor goes bad, the byke has to be hooked up to B.U.D.S. to be calibrated. So, it looks like this will not be a "on the road" repair. Good to know.
And, BTW, the reason this one went bad was due to the cables not being tightened when it was prepped. I personally took the negative off with my fingers. And it wasn't anything the ryder did. He didn't even know how to get to the battery. Even on a new byke, I would suggest checking the battery cables.
Last edited by Roadster Renovations; 05-17-2017 at 01:36 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Thanks for the update... is everything pretty much nailed back into place now?
Did any other issues pop up?
Nothing else so far. This is the second incident he has had concerning the prep. First one they overfilled the oil.
And, before you ask the dealers' name, for personal reasons I will not say. Very disappointed with them though. We sent two referrals to them that purchased and they overfilled both of them, causing them to pee oil out of the fill tube.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys
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His desuctable is $50, which is the cost of the part. Since it's our first one, the install is free. He did not want to drag it up there and wait 3 weeks for the same money.
So to repeat SpyderAnne's question why didn't you go to the dealer. #1 this is a prep problem,ergo dealer's problem.#2 this is a bike barely six months out of the showroom,doesn't it have the full factory warranty? I wasn't aware there was any deductible on that. Unless I am missing something ( not impossible or improbable) there should have been no question about all this being on Dealer/BRP
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
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Originally Posted by pegasus1300
So to repeat SpyderAnne's question why didn't you go to the dealer. #1 this is a prep problem,ergo dealer's problem.#2 this is a bike barely six months out of the showroom,doesn't it have the full factory warranty? I wasn't aware there was any deductible on that. Unless I am missing something ( not impossible or improbable) there should have been no question about all this being on Dealer/BRP
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He was not charged as the part was covered. The dealer would not cover towing and it was too far for the towing coverage to work, plus he didn't trust them people. He did not want to wait the month for it to get looked at. If I had known that programming would be needed, it would have been stupid for me to suggest replacement. The guy is very happy, does not feel like he lost money, and since we changed his oil at the same time and I changed the sensor for free, it wasn't that big a deal.
The real issue here is that it should not have been an issue in the first place if the dealer was doing their job. I'm telling you, you burn people and they are very reluctant to come back to you. The dealers need to realize that.
And, on the bright side, anyone else that is thinking of changing theirs will now realize that it must be B.U.D.S. calibrated. Not wasted time at all IMHO.
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Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys
The real issue here is that it should not have been an issue in the first place if the dealer was doing their job. I'm telling you, you burn people and they are very reluctant to come back to you. The dealers need to realize that.
The main problem is that BRP allows dealers who "burn people" to skate. One/many may not return to the dealer that burned them; but you do search out a dealer for your Spyder. That's the crux of the problem-they are the only game in town, and that position breeds a degree of smugness from the top down. A new version of "take it or leave it". Some have left for other rides; but most just endure the Spyder culture.
The ONLY way this "attitude" changes is for real competition to enter the marketplace. So far, there have only been rumors of future products.
Mike.
2021 Marsala Red Metallic RT Limited
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Originally Posted by cptjam
On our Alaska trip, Dave had one fail. Went to the dealer, none in stock. There was a motor on a stand as a display, and the tech boosted that one, put it on Dave's bike, and off we went!!
Too bad you guys weren't aware of having to use B.U.D.S. for calibration when that part was replaced. It would have saved a lot of time on this thread. At least we know now what is required.
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16 F3T cam position sensor replaced; No B.U.D.S Required and all is good
Originally Posted by Roadster Renovations
Too bad you guys weren't aware of having to use B.U.D.S. for calibration when that part was replaced. It would have saved a lot of time on this thread. At least we know now what is required.
101_0015.jpgWifes F3T got the Limp Home Screen a little over a week ago, and when she got home (35 miles commute) pulled up the PO340 code - bad camshaft position sensor. Did search on computer and saw this thread so we check 3 dealers and scheduled an appointment the earliest was 3 weeks out. Since my wife loves her commute on the F3 she was not a happy camper! Also we had several trips planned, and this was adding to the discord. To paraphrase- Unhappy Wife: Unhappy Life!!
Anticipating that the BUDS calibration would be needed and that the part would have to be ordered anyway, we stewed, but ordered the part anyway from our local dealer, and hoped that the diagnosis and repair would go smooth. We like the local tech and didn't want to "LIMP" the hundred plus miles to Denver and maybe still be waiting on a fix.
Parts man Ashton, called Tuesday and said the cam sensor was in along with the Oring I ordered just in case. Turns out the sensor comes with an ORing in place, so that was not needed. I talked with Service Manager and Tech Isaac, and he said try the sensor, and if the PO 340 Code doesn't go away, they would try to fit me in for a BUDS hookup to resolve the full diagnostic report.
It took me about an hour to wiggle the little sensor out of the recess in upper rear right side of engine, but was able to get the new one in and snapped in place. Fired the F3T up and eased down the drive with the Limp Mode showing for about 10 seconds and then IT WENT AWAY, and my 2 mile test ride was free of codes and running smooth. My wife rode to work today, so if she rolls in this evening with a smile on her face we are good to go on our planned rides this fall. Shout out to Ashton, Desmond and Isaac at Fremont Motorsports for their communication and help!!
07 Shadows, Aero, Spirit gone but not forgotten
03 Harley Sportster, 07 RK moved on
11 RT- 76,000 mi, 15 RT-S- 44,000 mi, traded for current 15 base RT and 16 F3T
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