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Thread: 1330 Cam Sensor

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    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Default 1330 Cam Sensor

    Anybody tackled this yet? Looks pretty straightforward to me.

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    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Cam Sensor ordered. We will see what we will see!

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    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Default Easy

    On our Alaska trip, Dave had one fail. Went to the dealer, none in stock. There was a motor on a stand as a display, and the tech boosted that one, put it on Dave's bike, and off we went!!
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    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cptjam View Post
    On our Alaska trip, Dave had one fail. Went to the dealer, none in stock. There was a motor on a stand as a display, and the tech boosted that one, put it on Dave's bike, and off we went!!
    .
    .
    I was hoping that BUDS wouldn't need hooked up just to replace the sensor. Buddy has a '16 F3T with that problem. If this works, I will order one to leave in the on byke tools. Same sensor fits every 1330, so it will be a spare for both bykes.

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    Just out curiosity what "error code" comes up, so I know what to look out for.

    Chris

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    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by No 2817 View Post
    Just out curiosity what "error code" comes up, so I know what to look out for.

    Chris
    Spyder Diagnostic Codes - P0340
    Error on camshaft
    position sensor signal

    Disconnected sensor
    Blown fuse
    Defective CAPS,
    damaged circuit wires,
    damaged connector or
    damaged ECM output pins.
    Trigger wheel missing
    or in incorrect position
    on intake camshaft

    Make sure sensor
    connector is fully inserted.
    Measure voltage between
    harness connector CAPS-3
    and ground (expected
    value: 11 to 13 volts).
    Measure resistance from
    connector: ECMA-E2 to CAPS-2
    (expected value: < 2 ohms).
    Measure resistance from
    connector: ECMA-D4 to CAPS-1
    (expected value: < 2 ohms).

    We should have it in a couple of days. We will see then.


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    Default Cam sensor

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys View Post
    Cam Sensor ordered. We will see what we will see!
    Doc would you please post the part number for the cam sensor for the 1330 engine and where you obtained it.
    Thanks

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    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steamer View Post
    Doc would you please post the part number for the cam sensor for the 1330 engine and where you obtained it.
    Thanks
    http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oempa...40/valve-train
    .
    Item #28. Same part all 1330's, all years.

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    Very Active Member SteveLaoyster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys View Post
    http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oempa...40/valve-train
    .
    Item #28. Same part all 1330's, all years.
    Item 29 you mean? Comes with a new o ring?
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveLaoyster View Post
    Item 29 you mean? Comes with a new o ring?
    Sorry, yeah #29. Not sure about the O ring. Should be getting it in the net day or two....

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    Why doesn't your friend with the 16 take it to the dealer for warranty repair?

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    Thank you for supplying this information. Once again, this site is invaluable.

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    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    Why doesn't your friend with the 16 take it to the dealer for warranty repair?
    .
    His desuctable is $50, which is the cost of the part. Since it's our first one, the install is free. He did not want to drag it up there and wait 3 weeks for the same money.

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    OK, we got the sensor in and installed. Code did not clear so off to the dealer...will advise when we find out what is going on.

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    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys View Post
    OK, we got the sensor in and installed. Code did not clear so off to the dealer...will advise when we find out what is going on.
    Check the wiring. An open circuit to the sensor will give the same code. Crankshaft position sensor is a possible cause also. The wheel on the camshaft may be kapooie.

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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    Check the wiring. An open circuit to the sensor will give the same code. Crankshaft position sensor is a possible cause also. The wheel on the camshaft may be kapooie.
    We were kinda wondering that also. I felt in the hole with my little finger and it appeared the reticulater ring was not square with the hole.

    Byke is less than 6 months' old. Problem started when both battery cables came loose. Was not prepped correctly. Overfilled with oil also. That was the first problem. Now this. He is not a happy camper at this point. I'm thinking that the loose connection caused a surge, which could have caused all manner of problems.

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    Alright, like Paul Harvey says, Here is the rest of the story. When a cam sensor goes bad, the byke has to be hooked up to B.U.D.S. to be calibrated. So, it looks like this will not be a "on the road" repair. Good to know.

    And, BTW, the reason this one went bad was due to the cables not being tightened when it was prepped. I personally took the negative off with my fingers. And it wasn't anything the ryder did. He didn't even know how to get to the battery. Even on a new byke, I would suggest checking the battery cables.
    Last edited by Roadster Renovations; 05-17-2017 at 01:36 PM.

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    Thanks for the update... is everything pretty much nailed back into place now?
    Did any other issues pop up?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Thanks for the update... is everything pretty much nailed back into place now?
    Did any other issues pop up?
    Nothing else so far. This is the second incident he has had concerning the prep. First one they overfilled the oil.

    And, before you ask the dealers' name, for personal reasons I will not say. Very disappointed with them though. We sent two referrals to them that purchased and they overfilled both of them, causing them to pee oil out of the fill tube.

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    I wouldn't have asked that question...
    As much as they SEEM to deserve a good kick in the guts: they're not here to defend themselves...
    Last edited by Bob Denman; 05-17-2017 at 05:35 PM.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys View Post
    .
    His desuctable is $50, which is the cost of the part. Since it's our first one, the install is free. He did not want to drag it up there and wait 3 weeks for the same money.
    So to repeat SpyderAnne's question why didn't you go to the dealer. #1 this is a prep problem,ergo dealer's problem.#2 this is a bike barely six months out of the showroom,doesn't it have the full factory warranty? I wasn't aware there was any deductible on that. Unless I am missing something ( not impossible or improbable) there should have been no question about all this being on Dealer/BRP

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    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus1300 View Post
    So to repeat SpyderAnne's question why didn't you go to the dealer. #1 this is a prep problem,ergo dealer's problem.#2 this is a bike barely six months out of the showroom,doesn't it have the full factory warranty? I wasn't aware there was any deductible on that. Unless I am missing something ( not impossible or improbable) there should have been no question about all this being on Dealer/BRP
    .
    He was not charged as the part was covered. The dealer would not cover towing and it was too far for the towing coverage to work, plus he didn't trust them people. He did not want to wait the month for it to get looked at. If I had known that programming would be needed, it would have been stupid for me to suggest replacement. The guy is very happy, does not feel like he lost money, and since we changed his oil at the same time and I changed the sensor for free, it wasn't that big a deal.

    The real issue here is that it should not have been an issue in the first place if the dealer was doing their job. I'm telling you, you burn people and they are very reluctant to come back to you. The dealers need to realize that.

    And, on the bright side, anyone else that is thinking of changing theirs will now realize that it must be B.U.D.S. calibrated. Not wasted time at all IMHO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys View Post
    The real issue here is that it should not have been an issue in the first place if the dealer was doing their job. I'm telling you, you burn people and they are very reluctant to come back to you. The dealers need to realize that.
    The main problem is that BRP allows dealers who "burn people" to skate. One/many may not return to the dealer that burned them; but you do search out a dealer for your Spyder. That's the crux of the problem-they are the only game in town, and that position breeds a degree of smugness from the top down. A new version of "take it or leave it". Some have left for other rides; but most just endure the Spyder culture.
    The ONLY way this "attitude" changes is for real competition to enter the marketplace. So far, there have only been rumors of future products.
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    Quote Originally Posted by cptjam View Post
    On our Alaska trip, Dave had one fail. Went to the dealer, none in stock. There was a motor on a stand as a display, and the tech boosted that one, put it on Dave's bike, and off we went!!
    Too bad you guys weren't aware of having to use B.U.D.S. for calibration when that part was replaced. It would have saved a lot of time on this thread. At least we know now what is required.

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    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
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    Default 16 F3T cam position sensor replaced; No B.U.D.S Required and all is good

    Quote Originally Posted by Roadster Renovations View Post
    Too bad you guys weren't aware of having to use B.U.D.S. for calibration when that part was replaced. It would have saved a lot of time on this thread. At least we know now what is required.


    101_0015.jpgWifes F3T got the Limp Home Screen a little over a week ago, and when she got home (35 miles commute) pulled up the PO340 code - bad camshaft position sensor. Did search on computer and saw this thread so we check 3 dealers and scheduled an appointment the earliest was 3 weeks out. Since my wife loves her commute on the F3 she was not a happy camper! Also we had several trips planned, and this was adding to the discord. To paraphrase- Unhappy Wife: Unhappy Life!!

    Anticipating that the BUDS calibration would be needed and that the part would have to be ordered anyway, we stewed, but ordered the part anyway from our local dealer, and hoped that the diagnosis and repair would go smooth. We like the local tech and didn't want to "LIMP" the hundred plus miles to Denver and maybe still be waiting on a fix.

    Parts man Ashton, called Tuesday and said the cam sensor was in along with the Oring I ordered just in case. Turns out the sensor comes with an ORing in place, so that was not needed. I talked with Service Manager and Tech Isaac, and he said try the sensor, and if the PO 340 Code doesn't go away, they would try to fit me in for a BUDS hookup to resolve the full diagnostic report.

    It took me about an hour to wiggle the little sensor out of the recess in upper rear right side of engine, but was able to get the new one in and snapped in place. Fired the F3T up and eased down the drive with the Limp Mode showing for about 10 seconds and then IT WENT AWAY, and my 2 mile test ride was free of codes and running smooth. My wife rode to work today, so if she rolls in this evening with a smile on her face we are good to go on our planned rides this fall. Shout out to Ashton, Desmond and Isaac at Fremont Motorsports for their communication and help!!
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