Rear Tire Change/Belt alignment/excessive driveline drag

[trikermutha]

[DGoebel]

With 2 to 3 Spyder Guys helping, observing, checking, disassembling, carefully checking every little thing, we know this...
Les had the magic tool to back off the inner wheel bearing keeper Part #160 on the schematic, that bearing, when the inner hub isn't mounted spins properly, feels good like a good bearing should.
When the inner hub is NOT mounted to the wheel, it's bearing spins appropriately, etc, etc. When we mounted the innerhub to the wheel with the spacer, they locked up solid. We used Les' homemade tool to back off that keeper, torqued the innerhub mounting bolts and nuts to half torque, and they spun but much tighter. When we torqued them all the way, NO SPIN, it's as if the spacer tube stretched or something. So we bolt it all back together and we mounted the wheel without belt and brake caliper and it spins a little better maybe. Then we add the belt, add the caliper and it's tight again.... many bad thoughts coursing through my head, but I didn't utter a one.....
We re connect the shock bolt, sensor bolt on the left, manually adjust the tension (Les did this by the twist the belt method first, then we measured it with Jim's Krikit and darned if Les doesn't have a calibrated belt tension checker on the end of his arm...) 2013 belt = 160 and the Krikit said it was 160) now we do the belt alignment (cause I've had this wheel off and on 5 times this weekend) and we seem to have it tracking true.
Jim heads back up 'nort to go home and Les and I head for a tour of Faribault on the way to a nice restaurant and my rear brake is definitely heating up, over heating, now making sounds... We eat lunch, late, and head back to my garage, cool and remove the caliper (wheel does still spin but not like any of my past bikes when up on jacks or stands or lifts) inspect the caliper and open up the brake pads manually, slip it back on and no change.
It's now on a trailer behind my truck, tomorrow's adventure includes driving at the crack of dawn to the nearest dealer to be there when their doors open and see if they can slip my bike in, I then have phone numbers for 2 dealers in northern Iowa, 2 over closer to the Mississippi in Mn and then others points north in the hopes that someone can slip my Spyder in and check out the rear wheel/brake/bearings tomorrow......

[trikermutha]

somehow it sounds like one of the bearings was moved.



TIGHTENING TORQUE Wheel hub bolts 48 N•m (35 lbf•ft)rbs2012-008-003_a HUB BOLTS TIGHTENING SEQUENCE 4. Insert the spacer in the hubuntil it contacts the bearing inner race. rbs2012-008-004_a 5. Press the RHbearing in the hub. 5.1 Apply a thin layer of XPS SYNTHETIC GREASE (P/N 293 550010) all around the bearing outer race. 5.2 Install the assembly on the pressas shown 5.3 Push bearing until the spacer comes in contact with each bearinginner race. REQUIRED TOOLS REAR WHEEL BEARING PUSHER (P/N 529 036 246) (Bothrequired) rbs2012-008-005_a CUTAWAY VIEW 1. Bearing pusher pushing on the RHbearing (in hub) 2. RH bearing 3. Spacer 4. Hub 5. LH bearing (in wheel) 6.Bearing pusher supporting the LH bearing NOTICE Bearing pushers must be in goodcondition and remain in contact with outer and inner bearing races whilepressing.

[DGoebel]

That was my thought, that the wheel bearing somehow moved inward, as that was the only part out of my sight, but that still doesn't make sense how a tire demount remount could affect that bearing., the inner hub and all bits and pieces were stacked on towels and all lubed up where the manual says to before assembly (5 times).

still

If I can find a local service guy to look at it tomorrow (Mon) or Tues morning I'll report back with their findings, otherwise I'm hauling it to Springfield and seeing if Pitbull or Lamonster or someone local down there can fit me in.
I can still have all the farkle's I need installed or evaluated while we're down there.

Hmm, wondering just how many folks have attended spyderfest WITHOUT a working spyder......

[Warlock]

With 2 to 3 Spyder Guys helping, observing, checking, disassembling, carefully checking every little thing, we know this...
Les had the magic tool to back off the inner wheel bearing keeper Part #160 on the schematic, that bearing, when the inner hub isn't mounted spins properly, feels good like a good bearing should.
When the inner hub is NOT mounted to the wheel, it's bearing spins appropriately, etc, etc. When we mounted the innerhub to the wheel with the spacer, they locked up solid. We used Les' homemade tool to back off that keeper, torqued the innerhub mounting bolts and nuts to half torque, and they spun but much tighter. When we torqued them all the way, NO SPIN, it's as if the spacer tube stretched or something. So we bolt it all back together and we mounted the wheel without belt and brake caliper and it spins a little better maybe. Then we add the belt, add the caliper and it's tight again.... many bad thoughts coursing through my head, but I didn't utter a one.....
We re connect the shock bolt, sensor bolt on the left, manually adjust the tension (Les did this by the twist the belt method first, then we measured it with Jim's Krikit and darned if Les doesn't have a calibrated belt tension checker on the end of his arm...) 2013 belt = 160 and the Krikit said it was 160) now we do the belt alignment (cause I've had this wheel off and on 5 times this weekend) and we seem to have it tracking true.
Jim heads back up 'nort to go home and Les and I head for a tour of Faribault on the way to a nice restaurant and my rear brake is definitely heating up, over heating, now making sounds... We eat lunch, late, and head back to my garage, cool and remove the caliper (wheel does still spin but not like any of my past bikes when up on jacks or stands or lifts) inspect the caliper and open up the brake pads manually, slip it back on and no change.
It's now on a trailer behind my truck, tomorrow's adventure includes driving at the crack of dawn to the nearest dealer to be there when their doors open and see if they can slip my bike in, I then have phone numbers for 2 dealers in northern Iowa, 2 over closer to the Mississippi in Mn and then others points north in the hopes that someone can slip my Spyder in and check out the rear wheel/brake/bearings tomorrow......

Doesn't make since. I could understand if part 240 was installed wrong. You could have some bad bearings. What you are describing all this locks up even before you use part 240 spacer.
David

[SpyderAnn01]

Why did you remove the hub? We changed two rear tires this week and we just remove the pulley and the rubber Cush drive.

[jcthorne]

Why did you remove the hub? We changed two rear tires this week and we just remove the pulley and the rubber Cush drive.

We
have to remove the brake rotor but not the hub. In the new (2015+) wheels, the hub is not even removable.

[jcthorne]

That was my thought, that the wheel bearing somehow moved inward, as that was the only part out of my sight, but that still doesn't make sense how a tire demount remount could affect that bearing., the inner hub and all bits and pieces were stacked on towels and all lubed up where the manual says to before assembly (5 times).

still

If I can find a local service guy to look at it tomorrow (Mon) or Tues morning I'll report back with their findings, otherwise I'm hauling it to Springfield and seeing if Pitbull or Lamonster or someone local down there can fit me in.
I can still have all the farkle's I need installed or evaluated while we're down there.

Hmm, wondering just how many folks have attended spyderfest WITHOUT a working spyder......

Better call ahead. MOST BRP dealers (like most all motorcycle shops) are closed on Sunday and Monday.

Wish you were closer. I keep those bearings and rear wheel parts in stock. Would be glad to give you a hand.

[DGoebel]

Why did I remove the hub, cause the local tire shop that would mount the tire on the wheel (normally only does cage tires) looked at the Wheel and inner hub assembly and asked me to. They did the install without me having to make a 4 - 6 hour round trip. Alas, when I removed the hub, I kept the hub and spacer together, all bolts, nuts, etc indexed and sorted. And reassembled in the same order disassembled...

SO today, I made two round trips to a dealer about 50 miles away, spyder on trailer, they DID get my spyder into their mechanic 2nd in line no less, he pulled and replaced and reseated the inner hub and wheel bearings, checked the brakes, aligned and tensioned the belt, took it for a 5 mile check ride and thought he'd solved the issue. I took the bike for a check ride of about 1 1/2 miles (it was after 5:30 or so And I still had to trailer it home 50 miles). It seemed to be good. Brought it home, drove around the block, verified the belt alignment, then took it for a longer 4 - 5 mile ride, and the binding sound is back, right at the end of that ride, I putzed around in 1st gear, holding my phone on video record mode to capture the sound, but the bike is packed on the trailer, we're leaving for Spyderfest and I'm calling Pitbull in the morning to see if they can look at it Wednesday, Thursday or Friday, if not I'm gonna trailer it right back home after getting some tricled's safety bundle installed on Thursday and enjoying 4 days of not working, and time off with my wife, once it is fixed we know we'll have plenty of GREAT SPYDER RIDES Ahead.... with a new tire no less....

[Warlock]

Why did I remove the hub, cause the local tire shop that would mount the tire on the wheel (normally only does cage tires) looked at the Wheel and inner hub assembly and asked me to. They did the install without me having to make a 4 - 6 hour round trip. Alas, when I removed the hub, I kept the hub and spacer together, all bolts, nuts, etc indexed and sorted. And reassembled in the same order disassembled...

SO today, I made two round trips to a dealer about 50 miles away, spyder on trailer, they DID get my spyder into their mechanic 2nd in line no less, he pulled and replaced and reseated the inner hub and wheel bearings, checked the brakes, aligned and tensioned the belt, took it for a 5 mile check ride and thought he'd solved the issue. I took the bike for a check ride of about 1 1/2 miles (it was after 5:30 or so And I still had to trailer it home 50 miles). It seemed to be good. Brought it home, drove around the block, verified the belt alignment, then took it for a longer 4 - 5 mile ride, and the binding sound is back, right at the end of that ride, I putzed around in 1st gear, holding my phone on video record mode to capture the sound, but the bike is packed on the trailer, we're leaving for Spyderfest and I'm calling Pitbull in the morning to see if they can look at it Wednesday, Thursday or Friday, if not I'm gonna trailer it right back home after getting some tricled's safety bundle installed on Thursday and enjoying 4 days of not working, and time off with my wife, once it is fixed we know we'll have plenty of GREAT SPYDER RIDES Ahead.... with a new tire no less....

Pitbull should be able to fix you up.
David

[trikermutha]

That don't sound too good..Good Luck

[DGoebel]

We'll we are OVERJOYED to have got the bike down here to SF, Pit Bull Powersports Service guys, Paul, Jason, and Sean (I think) got us in on Wed, and Again Thursday (after we had TricLED's Ultimate Safety Bundle + installed at Vendor Village ) and we ALL thought we had the issue resolved, but on our drive to our lodging (closer to the Fairgrounds) after PBPs closed the sound returned.

Spoke tonight to one of the BRP factory reps here at SF and he's going to try to get the BRP tech's down here with him to check out the bike.....

FIRST and FOREMOST, I am VERY Happy with the attention and service efforts Pit Bull folks have put in on our behalf as walk-in customer's, with NO appointment, no past history, and during what must be the busiest time of their year. Pit Bull has valiantly and doggedly tried to stop the sound and its lessened and taken longer to occur, so we're hoping to see if the BRP tech's can find something different.

I consider us blessed that we could get the Ultimate Safety Bundle + installed this morning by TricLED, and of course, my wife Sharon found several of their organizers for the Frunk, Trunk, and SaddleBags, and I got their Multi-mount Spyder dash Bracket with 3 ball mounts.

We enjoyed a nice BBQ sandwich and beans at the AmLegion tonight and have met many, many nice Spyder folks ( a Whole group that rode up from Mexico).
Rain or not, Bike Gremlins or not, we're have a wonderful experience!

[PW2013STL]

Glad to hear that you and Sharon are having a good time. I hope the BRP techs find the issue. You will have to fill me in when you get home.

Les

[PapaHotel]

BRP reps are here? Are they at the vendor village or lurking elsewhere? I have one issue on my RT I would love to discuss with them.



Hope you get the rear end "right!" See you on the 'morrow.

[pegasus1300]

Les, Please, I'm going through the above mentioned steps but belt tension is something I can't check yet. Heading to the local Harley dealer to see if they have a belt tension tester.

I did follow Bob's video and several other tips mentioned explicitly, but had a hard time keeping the right rear tension adjuster cap tight to the swing arm, seems ever time I tightened the nut it would slide back, and I'd have to push on the tire to tighten it back up.......
But all in all, I've now done rear tire and an oil change solo first time... wheeeeeeee

I also found that when I did it Bob's method I could not get the right cap to stay tight until I tightened the axle up from the right side. Try that.

[DGoebel]

Seems like it became a compound issue, though I had taped the Adjuster/Swing Arm caps to the swing arms, and I really, really followed all the suggestions and FB's video, somehow my rear axle was canted enough to cause the rotor to drag on the pads on the front inboard and rear outboard pads. This caused the excessive friction, caused the rotor to heat up excessively, then either when it cooled or was cooled it warped.
It's possible the canting happened when a local Can-Am shop "aligned" the belt and replaced the bearings to try and fix the original issue. done Deal, won't go back there, Past is Past, should've known it might not be fixed by their expert marine engine repair guy......

Once the Pit Bull Powersports folks (with or without the assistance of the BRP Tech Reps) properly aligned the rear axle, belt tension, and belt tracking, the warped rotor was just off enough to take about 5 miles to warm up enough to start making noises. After replacing the rotor, I was able to ride it (all of 10.6 miles down in Springfield at Spyderfest) before the Monsoon's hit again. Both my wife and I rode around town and never heard a peep out of it.

BEST Spyderfest EVER! (My first, and I got all the farkles I wanted in advance installed professionally, got SQUARED AWAY, by Joe and Ann, got a lot of great deals, and sage advice, and met a lot of nice new folks. We're already planning on Spyders in the Ozarks and next years Spyderfest, They can ONLY get better!

[Bob Denman]

Glad to hear that it is all sorted out, and you're back up, and "on three"!