How fast do rear brakes wear?

[FrankPa]

OK, so I have a dilemma.

My first set of tires and brakes lasted 16,000 miles. (I'm a fairly sedate ryder.)

I am now 3,000 miles down the road (19,000 on the clock) and I have switched to a new, closer dealer. On my way over there for an oil change, my RT-S threw a brake failure code. Turns out that the rear brake (only) is down to the backing and has even scored the rotor.

The (new) dealer said that it's VERY unlikely that a new brake pad could wear down to that extent in 3,000 miles. I agree. Before I accuse my old dealer of not doing the work, I'd like to get opinions from the experts (you folks).

Thanks in advance!!

[SteveLaoyster]

OK, so I have a dilemma.

My first set of tires and brakes lasted 16,000 miles. (I'm a fairly sedate ryder.)

I am now 3,000 miles down the road (19,000 on the clock) and I have switched to a new, closer dealer. On my way over there for an oil change, my RT-S threw a brake failure code. Turns out that the rear brake (only) is down to the backing and has even scored the rotor.

The (new) dealer said that it's VERY unlikely that a new brake pad could wear down to that extent in 3,000 miles. I agree. Before I accuse my old dealer of not doing the work, I'd like to get opinions from the experts (you folks).

Thanks in advance!!

That's why I like to ask to see the old parts. But of course if the dealer is unscrupulous they could show you someone else's parts.

[Chupaca]

But I would be suspect...RT's go through brakes quite quickly and more so the SE models. But if you got 16,000 on the first set there should be no reason for you not to get the same on the second. Or at least close to that. Your ryding style is pretty well set by now....

[Sarge707]

I have 17,000 miles on my 2012 RT sm5 and the rear pads have about 65% pad left? I do not think they changed your pads ? I will check mine again at 25,000 Miles.

[Bfromla]

I waited till 30k & did mine myself. My ryding is solo ryder, very laid back & RELAXED

i do down shift rather than brake for most off ramps & such. I dont thing your previous shop did thework & has now caused you more damage. Address however you want but look at parts at Baja Ron first
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...rs-amp-Helmets

[cyclelover63]

I have a 2012 RTL and my rear brakes had to be replaced at 16,000 miles..I now have original front brakes at 22,000 miles..I asked the tech about it and he said that the RT is set up to use more force on rear brakes if you ride 2 up...He said he could change the ratio of front to back braking if I brought my wife up so we would both be on it.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

That's why I like to ask to see the old parts. But of course if the dealer is unscrupulous they could show you someone else's parts.

........ The first dealer screwed you over ......... even BAJARON who sells brake pads for a living will tell you expect 25,000 +/- on the rear 35,000 +/- on the front avg.......... But this isn't the Biggest scam Dealers have going .... that's the CHECK VALVE ADJUSTMENT for the V-Twin at 14,000 mi. for $ 650 + ......... Mike

[Dudley]

My 2010 RT SM5 had 57,000 on all the brakes when I traded it for the 2014 SE6. Did you get ripped? Only the dealer knows.

[blacklightning]

I just sold my 2014 RT sm6 with 21k miles. I had it serviced just before the sale, and all wheels checked in with about half the pad left.

[BajaRon]

There are things here that I would look at. First, are both rear pads wearing evenly or is one pad shot and the other not? It could be a mechanical issue.

There are some very cheap pads on the market. Some have exotic names like 'Kevlar' which makes them sound cool. But I've had customers go through them very quickly. I had one customer say they could get 3 sets of pads on eBay for the price of one set that I sell. He called me a few months later and said he didn't even get a full 3,000 miles out of the eBay pads. He didn't realize they were wearing so quickly and the rear pads destroyed his rotor.

I'm not saying that no one else sells a good set of pads. Just that many times you do actually get what you pay for.

It could be your parking break needed adjustment and caused the pads to wear quickly on the rear. This should have been done at install.

And, of course, it could be that the dealer didn't change the rear pads. Just saying that this is not the only possibility here.

[Warlock]

I would also look real close to the bolts that holds the pads. They will make a groove in the bolt and will hold the pads against the rotor just enough to wear them rear quick. Some will replace the pads and not install the new bolts. Which they would sell the bolts separately. I've had to take my bolts and polish them smooth again.
David

[oldguyinTX]

19 K on mine. Same for the fronts. Replaced with BajaRon's. WAY better than OEM, I feel that I have much better stopping power.

[Bob Denman]

19 K on mine. Same for the fronts. Replaced with BajaRon's. WAY better than OEM, I feel that I have much better stopping power.

Did you change just the pads, or did you also pop for new rotors?
(At 17,000 miles: I'm at the point where I'd rather change them now at a scheduled service, than pull another riding day off of my calendar...)

[Jeriatric]

OK, so I have a dilemma.

My first set of tires and brakes lasted 16,000 miles. (I'm a fairly sedate ryder.)

I am now 3,000 miles down the road (19,000 on the clock) and I have switched to a new, closer dealer. On my way over there for an oil change, my RT-S threw a brake failure code. Turns out that the rear brake (only) is down to the backing and has even scored the rotor.

The (new) dealer said that it's VERY unlikely that a new brake pad could wear down to that extent in 3,000 miles. I agree. Before I accuse my old dealer of not doing the work, I'd like to get opinions from the experts (you folks).

Thanks in advance!!

30K on my break pads and have about half life left in them.

[AeroPilot]

Putting new pads on does not guarantee a good break job. I appreciate the service and pads that Ron sells, but a little attention to cleaning the bolts and calipers and some caliper grease go a long way to getting good performance and wear from the new pads. If the caliper and mounting bolts have wear or bias to one side from the previous pads, that could accelerate wear on the new pads if not cleaned up or replaced. 6 years is a while on OEM bolts and pins in a corrosive environment even if the original pads went about normal (15-25,000 miles). JMO

[oldguyinTX]

Did you change just the pads, or did you also pop for new rotors?
(At 17,000 miles: I'm at the point where I'd rather change them now at a scheduled service, than pull another riding day off of my calendar...)

Rotors, too. Huge difference. Worth every penny. My dealer had no problem with installing aftermarket parts.

[Bob Denman]

Thanks! I guess that it's time to pile up some new parts...


...And figure out what NOT to tell the Missus!

[FrankPa]

First of all, thank you to everyone who checked in to this post previously with their comments and experiences!

I just came back from the service to repair my Spyder (2011 RT-S with 19,729 miles). All three brakes (and tires) were replaced at 16,489 miles (3240 miles ago, for the mathematically challenged). Now, the front brakes still have 4/32 and 5/32 left on the pads. The back brake was down to the metal backing (MAYBE 1mm left of pad). So, today I had to replace the rear rotor (5.8mm but scored, minimum allowed is 5.5mm) and the rear brake pads. They were replaced with genuine BRP OEM parts my new dealer. (Yes, Baja Ron, I should have ordered them from you, but in light of the sh*tstorm I may be about to raise with BRP, I figured I needed to stay original.)

Here's the issue: The dealer back at 16,489 replaced the pads with EBC FA473 and EBC FA474 pads, NOT BRP. They also never mentioned this to me, although they did note EBC pads on the invoice, I thought this was indicating the material and not the brand. Well, as it turned out, the rears wore down to the metal in 3240 miles AND scored the rotor. I intend to ask the first dealer to refund the parts and labor of the rear brakes and if they refuse, I will elevate to BRP; I'm sure they wouldn't appreciate the use of aftermarket parts without the owner's consent.

Does this seem reasonable to you folks? All opinions appreciated.

By the way, my new dealer just opened and seems to be trying to do a great job...

Thanks!

[Bfromla]

First of all, thank you to everyone who checked in to this post previously with their comments and experiences!

I just came back from the service to repair my Spyder (2011 RT-S with 19,729 miles). All three brakes (and tires) were replaced at 16,489 miles (3240 miles ago, for the mathematically challenged). Now, the front brakes still have 4/32 and 5/32 left on the pads. The back brake was down to the metal backing (MAYBE 1mm left of pad). So, today I had to replace the rear rotor (5.8mm but scored, minimum allowed is 5.5mm) and the rear brake pads. They were replaced with genuine BRP OEM parts my new dealer. (Yes, Baja Ron, I should have ordered them from you, but in light of the sh*tstorm I may be about to raise with BRP, I figured I needed to stay original.)

Here's the issue: The dealer back at 16,489 replaced the pads with EBC FA473 and EBC FA474 pads, NOT BRP. They also never mentioned this to me, although they did note EBC pads on the invoice, I thought this was indicating the material and not the brand. Well, as it turned out, the rears wore down to the metal in 3240 miles AND scored the rotor. I intend to ask the first dealer to refund the parts and labor of the rear brakes and if they refuse, I will elevate to BRP; I'm sure they wouldn't appreciate the use of aftermarket parts without the owner's consent.

Does this seem reasonable to you folks? All opinions appreciated.

By the way, my new dealer just opened and seems to be trying to do a great job...

Thanks!

reasonable but not enough The pads wore out & caused more damage & COSTLY repairs, headache, down time, concerns about other work done to bike,the list goes on! Dont let them slide with reasonable they will keep screwing people over

[Bob Denman]

Wow...
So they snuck in some parts, and didn't think to tell you about it?
I think that I'd be standing on the service manager's desk: explaining exactly what he's going to be doing about this, in a VERY loud voice!

[SpyderSteveFL]

I think EBC makes good stuff but like everyone has a range. I believe Ron sells the EBC stuff. I think these are the cheap organic pads and Ron sells the higher quality fully sintered ones. Probably makes a huge difference and I'm sure Ron can comment more intelligently. But I agree, a dealer shouldn't use aftermarket parts without consent, although we turn around and bitch when dealers refuse to even install non BRP parts like ummm, tires.

Here's the issue: The dealer back at 16,489 replaced the pads with EBC FA473 and EBC FA474 pads, NOT BRP. They also never mentioned this to me, although they did note EBC pads on the invoice, I thought this was indicating the material and not the brand. Well, as it turned out, the rears wore down to the metal in 3240 miles AND scored the rotor. I intend to ask the first dealer to refund the parts and labor of the rear brakes and if they refuse, I will elevate to BRP; I'm sure they wouldn't appreciate the use of aftermarket parts without the owner's consent.
Thanks!

[larryd]

I just check my rear brakes today...Pulled the caliber off...2014 RTS SE with 16000 miles...both rear pads 4/32nds...