Replace Left Control Pod

[Spyder_Cowgirl]

Have searched for this, cannot find. How long does it take to replace the left control pod?

Background, it appears that the PTT button is not functioning properly unless I am standing still .... cannot reliably transmit when moving, but can receive just fine. The right turn signal also sticks badly, so BRP is thinking I have a bad unit and wants it replaced (before agreeing to replace the CB). Would like to know how long I will be stuck at the dealer while they do this switch assembly.

Thanks ..... Ann

[trikermutha]

I think they replace the whole assembly. Shouldn't take long once they get the part.

[finless]

If they have the part this is a 30 minute job easy...

Bob

[Bob Denman]

30 minutes? Just enough time for a cup of coffee and a doughnut!

[Chupaca]

should not take long...remove a few panels get to the main harness clip a few zip ties . Now it could depend on the dealer but a quick call to the service dept and they should be able to tell you how long.

[Spyder_Cowgirl]

should not take long...remove a few panels get to the main harness clip a few zip ties . Now it could depend on the dealer but a quick call to the service dept and they should be able to tell you how long.

I wish it were that easy; maybe this mechanic doesn't know what he is doing. Says the steering column is in the way and the plug won't fit through the hole. Sigh, almost 2 hours in and I am not sure he is even half done yet.


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[Spyder_Cowgirl]

If they have the part this is a 30 minute job easy...

Bob

Have you have done a video of this, Bob?


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[Chupaca]

My shop manual will not open but anyone with a green manual can check the flat rate for you. That would be what brp estimates for that job...

[Spyder_Cowgirl]

My shop manual will not open but anyone with a green manual can check the flat rate for you. That would be what brp estimates for that job...

I checked mine before I left; 1.6, but I think that is under perfect conditions and the dealer can tack on a multiplier based on actual time used.


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[finless]

If he had the proper tools, he should have removed the pins from the connector with the PIN tool, fed the wires down the hole, and put the connector back on.

Bob

[pegasus1300]

If he had the proper tools, he should have removed the pins from the connector with the PIN tool, fed the wires down the hole, and put the connector back on.

Bob

That sounds like a nifty tool to have. Where would one find such a tool Bob?

[finless]

That sounds like a nifty tool to have. Where would one find such a tool Bob?

The company that makes the connector also has the pin crimp and insertion/removal tool.

I forget which connector this is on the grip wire end but as I recall it is the Delphi.

For the Delphi connectors if you look in the connector you will see a large rectangular hold for each pin. Or if it's the male side you will see thepins sticking out. Just above each of these is a small rectangular hole. Believe it or not you don't need the tool they sell for $30. A paper clip will work. You push in on the wire from the backside to release pressure on the locking tab. Then in the front push the paper clip in and at the same time pull on the wire and out come the pin

If it is the other connectors (with the yellow rubber seals like the mirrors have) for that you need the tool. I will look it up when I am home.

Bob

[finless]

Most of the connectors on the Spyder are the GT150.

Here is where you stick the paper clip to remove pins.

[IGETAROUND]

Have been into both sides on mine; 2 hours is not only accurate but doable for a non BRP trained mechanic; assuming the parts are available

Al

[pegasus1300]

Bob thank you so much for your rapid and thorough response.

Sorry to hijack the thread,now back to the OP's problem.

[Spyder_Cowgirl]

Probably took about 2.5 to 3 hours and it looked like he had to take a boat load of parts off just to get to the connector. Control module works fine and steering is still centered (was worried because it looked like the handle bars actually were taken off). Anyway, did a walk around and checked all the lights for BOTH controls. Since all seemed good, we took the long way home and tried out the CB -- it is still toast (as we figured, but we have to play along since this is all on BRP under warranty). Get home and can't lift the seat to gas up .... could not reach the latch with any of our tools, so called dealer and told him I was on my way back. Now, keep in mind, it was by now almost 3PM and the wind was predicted to be sustained 25 to 30 mph with gusts to 50 m[h by this time (dealer is about 30 minutes away). Soooooo .... made it there since most of the wind was at my back and show them the seat will not lift -- then ask for a ride home because hubby is otherwise occupied and cannot come get me. Thankfully, they did provide a lift home (one of the owners .... so, that was nice) -- at least I didn't have to ride home in that awful head wind that was, truthfully, by this time sustained about 35 mph.

Called when home, says on the way back together ... latch was bent and jammed, he says. So they took one off a showroom model to fix it.

Next morning call bright and early to make sure it is ready; back to the dealer. Get out of car and try the seat ... WON'T LIFT. Go inside and get service mgr; he shows me, yes it will .... BUT, .... he is turning the key the WRONG WAY!! Well, so now we know the cables are swapped and probably were to start with (that is why it would not open in the first place; although the bent latch didn't help). I am not waiting around for them to swap cables ... they will have the bike in a few weeks anyway to replace the CB (they can swap them then). So, now everything is backwards for the "push down" key release. This makes it difficult to fuel because I can no longer pull up to the pump, shut the motor off with the "kill" switch while leaving the key on, and press down then turn towards the gas pump symbol (I like this as I can monitor the fuel gauge and slow my fill when it gets close to the top). Now, I actually have to turn the bike off to push the key in and towards the luggage symbol. At least the frunk latch still works .... but %^&*(*&*(&^&*( could it have gone any worse?

So there's my RANT!

All the best .... Ann

[Bob Denman]

Wow... I'd say that it sounds like a "comedy of errors"; but it doesn't seem all that funny...
Hang in there! They WILL get it right!

[Windjamer]

seen folks replying with "taptalk" is that a cellphone app?

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

This makes it difficult to fuel because I can no longer pull up to the pump, shut the motor off with the "kill" switch while leaving the key on, and press down then turn towards the gas pump symbol (I like this as I can monitor the fuel gauge and slow my fill when it gets close to the top). Now, I actually have to turn the bike off to push the key in and towards the luggage symbol.

No you don't. The key will unlock in both directions without turning the motor off.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

seen folks replying with "taptalk" is that a cellphone app?

Android and iPhone, phones and tablets.

[Jeriatric]

If he had the proper tools, he should have removed the pins from the connector with the PIN tool, fed the wires down the hole, and put the connector back on.

Bob

Bob, you are old school. All they teach these kids today is remove and replace. Unless, they are motivated from within and have a burning desire to be good at their craft. And that, is very rare these days. Sadly!


Once again......just the facts