First Idler Kit Failure?

[Roadster Renovations]

I received a phone call yesterday while on our ryde to Grand Isle from a gentleman from Canada vacationing in Arizona that had what I believe is the first BRP idler failure at about 2500 miles. I decided that I would post this across all available media as a heads' up for everyone. He explained that he was on a ryde on his RT and had been using the BRP idler kit with our adapter, which had worked perfectly up to that point, when he noticed the vibration was back like before the install. He pulled over and checked for anything loose on the byke and couldn't find anything, so he returned to where he was staying and took the panels off to get to the idler and found that the slight play in the pulley wheel was now (1/4"-3/8"). I did not ask him if he had torn it down further to see what actually had failed, but I suspect the inner bearings wore out. We talked a bit more and he ordered the upgrade kit 1 for the RT from us so that all he had to replace was the arm and pulley. So, those of you that are running the idler from BRP, if it starts failing you will probably notice the vibrations back. You may also get a high pitched whine from the bearing failure. I hope that the rest of them last longer than this mans' did, but we have the fix for it when/if they do.
Since he is a member here, perhaps he can take a moment and disassemble the pulley and let us know what failed.

[ArachnidRyder]

I'm not the person who had the failure, but I am using the BRP idler on a 2012 RT in AZ. My install still seems to be functioning, but there is a greatly increased whine compared to when it first went on. It's been on for a few hundred miles and only gotten louder in the recent much hotter weather. Heat has been in the nineties the last few days, so that could be a factor. It may be time to switch it out with the new and improved model, but I'll likely wait a bit before ordering since pulling the Tupperware isn't my favorite activity.

[Bob Denman]

Doc,
Thanks for alerting us to this, and let's hope that "it is the exception; and not the rule..."

[Roadster Renovations]

I'm not the person who had the failure, but I am using the BRP idler on a 2012 RT in AZ. My install still seems to be functioning, but there is a greatly increased whine compared to when it first went on. It's been on for a few hundred miles and only gotten louder in the recent much hotter weather. Heat has been in the nineties the last few days, so that could be a factor. It may be time to switch it out with the new and improved model, but I'll likely wait a bit before ordering since pulling the Tupperware isn't my favorite activity.

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Since it's low mileage, that whine is probably the outer ribbed belt. And ours will probably have the same sound. Don't know why they make an outer ribbed belt like that. There really is no advantage. I saw a brand new Indian at the dealer yesterday and it had an outer ribbed belt also. On cages they will sometimes put outer ribs in to reduce the chance of cracks forming in serpentine belts, but for these Kevlar belts, not needed or they would be on the RT's and F3's, too..

Hope yours lasts longer......

[ArachnidRyder]

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Since it's low mileage, that whine is probably the outer ribbed belt. And ours will probably have the same sound.

Yep, it's always had the whine, but it has seemed much louder the last few days. Could be my imagination though. I won't worry about it unless the belt vibration returns.

[fantabstic]

I got my kit about 400 miles ago and have a whine at 31-42 MPH. Didn't know what it was at first. NOW I do!! Another $40.00 to BRP?

[Michaelscs]

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Since it's low mileage, that whine is probably the outer ribbed belt. And ours will probably have the same sound. Don't know why they make an outer ribbed belt like that. There really is no advantage. I saw a brand new Indian at the dealer yesterday and it had an outer ribbed belt also. On cages they will sometimes put outer ribs in to reduce the chance of cracks forming in serpentine belts, but for these Kevlar belts, not needed or they would be on the RT's and F3's, too..

Hope yours lasts longer......

I'm not sure if it would apply to a Spyder, but on some motorcycles and snowmobiles it's used for additional cooling of the clutches.

[Chupaca]

For letting everyone know of this possible issue. Great customer service is an asset to ones success. You also have a solution which is even better than just warning of the problem....

[Bob Denman]

I'm not sure if it would apply it a Spyder, but on some motorcycles and snowmobiles it's used for additional cooling of the clutches.

It also reduces the amount of energy wasted, to "bend" the belt around the sheaves... or sprockets!

[jroberts650]

I'm not the person who had the failure, but I am using the BRP idler on a 2012 RT in AZ. My install still seems to be functioning, but there is a greatly increased whine compared to when it first went on. It's been on for a few hundred miles and only gotten louder in the recent much hotter weather. Heat has been in the nineties the last few days, so that could be a factor. It may be time to switch it out with the new and improved model, but I'll likely wait a bit before ordering since pulling the Tupperware isn't my favorite activity.

This is exactly why I removed mine. It started off with a very faint whine but after putting a couple hundred miles on it, the whine got much louder. I would rather put up with the vibration than the whine. I have a BRP idler with 200 miles on it if anyone wants to take it off my hands.

[Bob Denman]

Would Doc's replacement idler wheel (with his much-improved bearing setup), bolt onto it?

[xpeschon]

Would Doc's replacement idler wheel (with his much-improved bearing setup), bolt onto it?

That's a great question, if that's the case and it will I may have to get the replacement idler wheel. Lets wait for Doc to reply he will know..

[Ex-Rocket]

I received a phone call yesterday while on our ryde to Grand Isle from a gentleman from Canada vacationing in Arizona that had what I believe is the first BRP idler failure at about 2500 miles. I decided that I would post this across all available media as a heads' up for everyone. He explained that he was on a ryde on his RT and had been using the BRP idler kit with our adapter, which had worked perfectly up to that point, when he noticed the vibration was back like before the install. He pulled over and checked for anything loose on the byke and couldn't find anything, so he returned to where he was staying and took the panels off to get to the idler and found that the slight play in the pulley wheel was now (1/4"-3/8"). I did not ask him if he had torn it down further to see what actually had failed, but I suspect the inner bearings wore out. We talked a bit more and he ordered the upgrade kit 1 for the RT from us so that all he had to replace was the arm and pulley. So, those of you that are running the idler from BRP, if it starts failing you will probably notice the vibrations back. You may also get a high pitched whine from the bearing failure. I hope that the rest of them last longer than this mans' did, but we have the fix for it when/if they do.
Since he is a member here, perhaps he can take a moment and disassemble the pulley and let us know what failed.

Doc, Just how many tested miles have you logged with your arm & pulley arrangement?

[xpeschon]

I know DOC is a vender or sponsor here but I can not find his link to his site.. Joe

[eddieshep999]

I know DOC is a vender or sponsor here but I can not find his link to his site.. Joe

Try this link

http://dochumphreys.wixsite.com/roadster

Can be found on the home page of this website under the sponsors list

Roadster Renovations

[Jeriatric]

For letting everyone know of this possible issue. Great customer service is an asset to ones success. You also have a solution which is even better than just warning of the problem....

Agree

[Roadster Renovations]

Doc, Just how many tested miles have you logged with your arm & pulley arrangement?

We have about 1500 miles on the RT and about 800 on the F3. No increased play or noise. That is probably because the bearings are 30% bigger and there are two instead of one.

[xpeschon]

Try this link

http://dochumphreys.wixsite.com/roadster

Can be found on the home page of this website under the sponsors list

Roadster Renovations

Thank you it worked perfect... Joe

[Roadster Renovations]

Would Doc's replacement idler wheel (with his much-improved bearing setup), bolt onto it?

In the case of an RT arm and pulley upgrade, that would be a kit #1 for the RT. However, any pulley will whine some the outer ribbed belt. A smooth outer belt doesn't do that. Here is the link:

http://dochumphreys.wixsite.com/road...amper-products

[xpeschon]

DOC I just ordered from your site the Idler Pulley Arm for the F-3, Item number: UVBD.1-F3. I watched your videos on the install and how you explained the added 2 inches from the BRP one. I currently am running the BRP one so all I needed was your Idler Pulley Arm and I understand how to install it on the BRP metal mount so should be no problem. You talked a lot about the tension on the ROLLER itself,, now when I receive my Pulley will in already have the correct tension where the Roller gets mounted onto the arm and will it be already set up for the F3? I think in your video you mentioned that it would be.. Just asking. You should see an order for a Joseph Peschon Waynesville MO. I paid via a credit card and not the paypal option. Thank you. PS: There appears to be nothing wrong with the BRP one that is on my spYder however when I installed it a few months back I really didn't notice much of a difference in the whole vibrations piece and I believe after seeing your video its possible the added 2 inches will place the roller where it needs to go..

[Roadster Renovations]

DOC I just ordered from your site the Idler Pulley Arm for the F-3, Item number: UVBD.1-F3. I watched your videos on the install and how you explained the added 2 inches from the BRP one. I currently am running the BRP one so all I needed was your Idler Pulley Arm and I understand how to install it on the BRP metal mount so should be no problem. You talked a lot about the tension on the ROLLER itself,, now when I receive my Pulley will in already have the correct tension where the Roller gets mounted onto the arm and will it be already set up for the F3? I think in your video you mentioned that it would be.. Just asking. You should see an order for a Joseph Peschon Waynesville MO. I paid via a credit card and not the paypal option. Thank you. PS: There appears to be nothing wrong with the BRP one that is on my spYder however when I installed it a few months back I really didn't notice much of a difference in the whole vibrations piece and I believe after seeing your video its possible the added 2 inches will place the roller where it needs to go..

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Actually, we modified that original video and adjusted the length to the same amount. We had clearance issues with some models, so we made it uniform. This information is in the comments section of the video. I will hold up sending yours until we make sure you still want it.

[Ex-Rocket]

We have about 1500 miles on the RT and about 800 on the F3. No increased play or noise. That is probably because the bearings are 30% bigger and there are two instead of one.

Will the nylon pulley that has the 2 bearings that you sell, fit on the BRP belt tensioner arm?

[Roadster Renovations]

Will the nylon pulley that has the 2 bearings that you sell, fit on the BRP belt tensioner arm?

That is a very good question, and unfortunately, the way the arm is made, it will not. The bolt is in a recessed area and the other side has a flange on it. If you were to cut the flange off to accommodate the full width of the pulley, you would not have enough material due to the recessed area for it to have any longevity of holding up. I though about giving it a try, but with liabilities, I needed to make a product as totally indestructible as possible. That is why we red lock tite AND use all torsional lock nuts. The configuration of the way the arm and pulley are put together allows for a very small amount of side load on the bearings. You will not get that from a plastic arm. Here is a video that explains that.

[honda]

I ran the idler for about 2500 miles and was very good when new. Vibration was back at same speeds as before install. Most weather was in the 80s and 90s. The play was 1/8 to to 1/4 inch (SORRY DOC IF I MISLEAD YOU).I will probably take it to the dealer and show them. Will keep everyone posted

[Roadster Renovations]

I ran the idler for about 2500 miles and was very good when new. Vibration was back at same speeds as before install. Most weather was in the 80s and 90s. The play was 1/8 to to 1/4 inch (SORRY DOC IF I MISLEAD YOU).I will probably take it to the dealer and show them. Will keep everyone posted

1/4"inch is too much play IMHO! Don't feel bad, several ryders have pulled them.
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Your upgrade kit is on the way. I think she sent it priority. Might want to check the belt tension and alignment also.