My Spyder is in LyMp Mode HELP!

[AY4B]

I removed my Rear tire and took it to get an new one put a now tire. Got it all back together and it is in limp mode. Any Ideas?

[Bob Denman]

Start it up, and take it for a ride... The codes should clear themselves out once you put a bit of distance under the bike.

[AY4B]

Called the Tech at Richardson Powersports and could not get it figured out. It has to do with taking the brakes apart im pretty sure.
The engine light is flashing and it says limp mode on the sreen, also the ABS is solid on as well as the stability system light.

[AY4B]

Start it up, and take it for a ride... The codes should clear themselves out once you put a bit of distance under the bike.

What are you calling a bit of distance? I took it down the street but did not get past the neighbors house testing the brakes and all. everything seemed ok except that it was in limp mode.

[AY4B]

I have the battery disconnected for now. I will reconnect it after an hour or so and take it back out. Ill get it out a few miles this time. Thanks.

[AY4B]

I did have one issue putting the brakes back together. I had put the parking brakes on and that is a NO-NO. the piston was too compressed and I could not get it back on the disc. The tech said our brakes are different because there is something in them that you cant just spread them back open with a screw driver. I finally did what he said to do which was to take the pads off and turn the piston till it went back in. there are 2 holes on the surface of the piston for that very reason.

[SpyderCruiser]

Just for giggles, how is the brake fluid level? In a car when you force the caliper piston in it usually causes the master cylinder reservoir to become overfilled. Then when you apply the brake the fluid gets low again as the caliper piston extends outward to apply pressure on the pads.

Good Luck,
Louie

[AY4B]

Just for giggles, how is the brake fluid level? In a car when you force the caliper piston in it usually causes the master cylinder reservoir to become overfilled. Then when you apply the brake the fluid gets low again as the caliper piston extends outward to apply pressure on the pads.

Good Luck,
Louie

Thanks, Ill go check that now.

[Chupaca]

Having the abs flashing , did you check the sensor and abs alignment to the abs disc..?

[AY4B]

Just got back from a long ride. Still in Limp Home mode. I can get to 57 MPH in 5th gear but it will not auto downshift. I did check the sensor wire. I did not take it off to change the tire but took it off the second time to check and clean. Im going to drive it to Richardson tomorrow in limp mode. They can hook up the Buds system and reset it or tell me if something else is wrong. The brake fluid was full btw. Thanks for the input!

[Bfromla]

No codes just limp mode? Try pushing & holding the mode & set buttons then push in on the blinker. Any active codes should display.


it did on my '13

[GA_Spyderman]

Now, you've got me worried, AY4B. I'm about to reassemble things. Does anyone ever change a rear tire and NOT have issues like this to deal with. Seems like this happens a lot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[AY4B]

Now, you've got me worried, AY4B. I'm about to reassemble things. Does anyone ever change a rear tire and NOT have issues like this to deal with. Seems like this happens a lot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

this is the second time I changed tires and have had problems both times.

[SpyderAnn01]

Now, you've got me worried, AY4B. I'm about to reassemble things. Does anyone ever change a rear tire and NOT have issues like this to deal with. Seems like this happens a lot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We change them all the time and don't have issues. Just don't turn the parking brake on. AY48, you should be able to go any speed in limp mode as long as you keep the rpm's down. Shift way earlier than you normally do, I was able to go 70+ in limp mode on my 13 RT

[GA_Spyderman]

If you're right, I should be good. I didn't turn the parking brake on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[AY4B]

Actually I had the parking brake on only during the first part of jacking it up but once I got further along I realized It needed to be off to get the belt off so from then on I had it off. I know, im a rookie and had to have messed up somewhere along the way. Live and learn, next time It will be much smoother.

[AY4B]

If you're right, I should be good. I didn't turn the parking brake on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I remembered thats why I went to buy a nice set of wheel chocks to make sure it did not go anywhere without the brakes on. I also bought an nice torque wrench to get it torqued to specs. 162 Pounds I think.

[SpyderAnn01]

I remembered thats why I went to buy a nice set of wheel chocks to make sure it did not go anywhere without the brakes on. I also bought an nice torque wrench to get it torqued to specs. 162 Pounds I think.

Look at your manual again, that 162 sounds way too high. You should always use a wheel chock when you jack up your Spyder parking brake on or parking brake off!

[GA_Spyderman]

What do you mean.. wheel chocks? My Spyder is jacked up with all 3 wheels off the ground.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SpyderAnn01]

What do you mean.. wheel chocks? My Spyder is jacked up with all 3 wheels off the ground.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can just lift the rear, if you lift it high enough the wheel will clear the fender.

[Peteoz]

Now, you've got me worried, AY4B. I'm about to reassemble things. Does anyone ever change a rear tire and NOT have issues like this to deal with. Seems like this happens a lot.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had zero problems, Spyderman. After everything was back together, and before I started the Spyder, I applied pressure to the brake for around 5 seconds. This resets everything brake related. I then started it up to check belt alignment, and then took it for a run with no error messages.

[Peteoz]

AY4B,

Here is my task list from my wheel replacement where I experienced no problems. Is there anything that stands out as vastly different to what you did? I have edited the list for the sake of brevity.

Pete

WHEEL REMOVAL -




1. Position your bike lift toward the rear of the chassis bar, being careful not to crush the exhaust springs.
2. Place F3 in neutral, park brake on.


10. Unbolt and remove the sensor next to the caliper(remember where each shim goes - I had 4, all between the sensor and the caliper mount plate)


18. Put a cloth inside the wheel to avoid damaging it when the caliper comes off. (Just in case)


20. Remove the brake caliper bolts and the slide the caliper off the disc (tight fit) and bungy to the frame or exhaust to keep the load off it.
21. Avoid touching the brake pedal while the caliper is off as you could create nanny messages when you start the Spyder......which can be fairly easily rectified....... but.....)




WHEEL REINSTALL -




11. Lift the Spyder until the wheel is off the ground to allow access to the upper brake caliper bolt hole.
12. Separate the pads in the brake caliper and slide the brake caliper over the disc (it's a tight fit, make sure the pads are separated in the caliper) and hand tighten the caliper bolts (use loctite).


14. Reinstall the sensor, ensuring shims are in the correct spot (use loctite.)


16. Slide the belt back on the sprocket (it helps to rotate the wheel)
17. Lower the Spyder to stability (meaning the wheel is just touching the ground).


23. Press hard on the brake pedal with the ignition off to reset the pads and ABS.
25. Lift the Spyder rear wheel off the ground. Select first gear and check belt for movement while the tyre is rotating. Brake and try in reverse. The belt should not move from side to side. If it does, you need a belt alignment adjustment. The belt should be 1mm to 5mm gap from the sprocket.
26. Lower the Spyder.
27. Check the tyre pressure.
28. Test ride......hopefully with no nanny messages.

[AY4B]

Look at your manual again, that 162 sounds way too high. You should always use a wheel chock when you jack up your Spyder parking brake on or parking brake off!

I just checked the service manual. Page 522 on the blow up diagram of the rear wheel, it shows 166 Ft pounds for the rear axle nut.

[AY4B]

AY4B,

Here is my task list from my wheel replacement where I experienced no problems. Is there anything that stands out as vastly different to what you did? I have edited the list for the sake of brevity.

Pete

WHEEL REMOVAL -




1. Position your bike lift toward the rear of the chassis bar, being careful not to crush the exhaust springs.
2. Place F3 in neutral, park brake on.


10. Unbolt and remove the sensor next to the caliper(remember where each shim goes - I had 4, all between the sensor and the caliper mount plate)
I did not remove the sensor, instead i found that if you slide off the rubber gromet that holds the cables to the frame, it gives you more cable play so you have no problem removing the brake caliper.


18. Put a cloth inside the wheel to avoid damaging it when the caliper comes off. (Just in case)

I used painters tape on the wheel instead.


20. Remove the brake caliper bolts and the slide the caliper off the disc (tight fit) and bungy to the frame or exhaust to keep the load off it.
21. Avoid touching the brake pedal while the caliper is off as you could create nanny messages when you start the Spyder......which can be fairly easily rectified....... but.....)

This I think is where I went wrong. The caliper got compressed somehow, I think I may have moved the parking brake cable slightly. Once the caliper gets compressed, you cant just spread it with a screwdriver,or pliers or even a clamp. There is something built into it that prevents that. The tech explained it and he had never had to do this but you have to remove the brake pads, and turn the piston to get it to go back. There are 2 holes for this on the face of the piston. Most probably there is a special tool for this but I used some needle nose pliers to get the job done.






WHEEL REINSTALL -




11. Lift the Spyder until the wheel is off the ground to allow access to the upper brake caliper bolt hole.
12. Separate the pads in the brake caliper and slide the brake caliper over the disc (it's a tight fit, make sure the pads are separated in the caliper) and hand tighten the caliper bolts (use loctite).


14. Reinstall the sensor, ensuring shims are in the correct spot (use loctite.)


16. Slide the belt back on the sprocket (it helps to rotate the wheel)
17. Lower the Spyder to stability (meaning the wheel is just touching the ground).


23. Press hard on the brake pedal with the ignition off to reset the pads and ABS.
25. Lift the Spyder rear wheel off the ground. Select first gear and check belt for movement while the tyre is rotating. Brake and try in reverse. The belt should not move from side to side. If it does, you need a belt alignment adjustment. The belt should be 1mm to 5mm gap from the sprocket.
26. Lower the Spyder.
27. Check the tyre pressure.
28. Test ride......hopefully with no nanny messages.

reply is in your text above

[GA_Spyderman]

Thanks, guys, all good information.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk