-
Originally Posted by Chupaca
Hold the throttle open and shift. Don't let up or it will stumble. ..
Thank you, I appreciate that.
-
Boy, you guys are awesome. I am a newbie on a motorcycle. Thank you. I realize that I shift from 3000 to 3500 rpms. I was taking it as a consideration of driving a stick shift on a car. I definitely will test it at the 4000rpms. I will make sure that I will shift "+" when I hit around the 3500 to 4000 rpms. Besides, it actually does run smooth when I do this. When I release my throttle and then shift "+" I did felt the hesitation.
Anyways, thank you gentleman. Let me know if I am right or not. Guidance from the wise is greatly appreciated.
-
Guidance from the wise is greatly appreciated.[/QUOTE]
lol........
-
-
Active Member
Just wondering, do you hold the paddle in until it shifts or give it a quick tap? I had an RSS SE5 that
used to "stumble" if you held the paddle in a little too long, this happened after I mastered not throttling off
to change gear lolol
We now have His and Hers Spyders.
Current Spyder, 2015 F3 Steel Black, Passenger Backrest, Blue Ridge Screen with Xcreen Extention, Akrapovic Muffler, Attitude Handlebars, Blades front rims, RT Swaybar,
Her Spyder 2011 Magnesium RSS Sportrack and Backrest, Comfort Seat, Grip Puppies, 3.5 inch Riser Bars, Wespyd Signature Swaybar. Hindle Muffler, Godiva Screen, Hiway Pegs Can Am Panniers
Previous Spyders
2013 ST SM5
2011 RSS
2010 RS
-
Originally Posted by Colin
Just wondering, do you hold the paddle in until it shifts or give it a quick tap? I had an RSS SE5 that
used to "stumble" if you held the paddle in a little too long, this happened after I mastered not throttling off
to change gear lolol
A quick "snap". Tested my theory again today, 2500-3500 vs 4000. 4000 was again the winner. My thoughts
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Road-Kill
I've noticed in the roughly 700 miles on my new Spyder that when I upshift (+) there is a 1/2 second loss of engine power. This loss causes my head slightly lean forward then flip back. This does not occur when downshifting (-). Not sounding prissy but I'm new to Spyders and don't have much experience with this and want to know if its normal.
I've had this identical problem shifting into 2nd gear (only) on my 2015 F3's SE6. I can't explain it but since I've had the ECM update from Monster Fuel the problem has disappeared. It is an annoying problem causing the rider to lurch forward & then snapped back again after the power returns. Might wanna try the ECM upgrade--I really like it performance wise plus my 2nd gear shift delay has disappeared.
Darrell
2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Road-Kill
I've noticed in the roughly 700 miles on my new Spyder that when I upshift (+) there is a 1/2 second loss of engine power. This loss causes my head slightly lean forward then flip back. This does not occur when downshifting (-). Not sounding prissy but I'm new to Spyders and don't have much experience with this and want to know if its normal.
I had this same delay shifting into 2nd gear 2015 F3's SE6. At the same time I upgraded the ECM & a few other things. problem was solved. then I wanted to see if my oil & trans magnetic oil drain plugs had any metal filings allowing 2 quarts of oil to drain by in the process--both drain plugs were clean--free of any metal filings.. After I replaced 1 quart of Oil I used the recommended oil level procedure of letting it idle for 2 fan cycles after a warm up ride & checked the oil level 2 min later to compensate for the dry sump oil return & had the dipstick show full.
Upon completing this recommended oil level check procedure my 2nd gear delay returned. Then I went back to my old procedure of filling the oil to the full level after the engine cooled down a bit. This required me to add one (1) more quart of oil to reach the full dot level. Retesting the 2nd gear shift delay disappeared again. I'm not blowing oil out of the exhaust or dipstick tube. My initial oil change/filter required a full 6 quarts of oil.
This is not the procedure most spyder owners would recommend but it really did solve my 2nd gear shift delay problem. At 1st I thought it was the ECM reflash upgrade but it was just the result of performing 2 procedures at the same time. The higher level oil solved the shift delay problem on my F3's.
Darrell
2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black
-
Originally Posted by Wildrice
I had this same delay shifting into 2nd gear 2015 F3's SE6. At the same time I upgraded the ECM & a few other things. problem was solved. then I wanted to see if my oil & trans magnetic oil drain plugs had any metal filings allowing 2 quarts of oil to drain by in the process--both drain plugs were clean--free of any metal filings.. After I replaced 1 quart of Oil I used the recommended oil level procedure of letting it idle for 2 fan cycles after a warm up ride & checked the oil level 2 min later to compensate for the dry sump oil return & had the dipstick show full.
Upon completing this recommended oil level check procedure my 2nd gear delay returned. Then I went back to my old procedure of filling the oil to the full level after the engine cooled down a bit. This required me to add one (1) more quart of oil to reach the full dot level. Retesting the 2nd gear shift delay disappeared again. I'm not blowing oil out of the exhaust or dipstick tube. My initial oil change/filter required a full 6 quarts of oil.
This is not the procedure most spyder owners would recommend but it really did solve my 2nd gear shift delay problem. At 1st I thought it was the ECM reflash upgrade but it was just the result of performing 2 procedures at the same time. The higher level oil solved the shift delay problem on my F3's.
Darrell
In the last 9 months of buying my new F3s and completing 18,000 miles this is what I found.
Shifting from 1st to 2nd around 2500 RPM while "slowing" accelerating is the best way to shift. (out of 1st)
Oil level can not be "topped off" because as I found out it will flow up and out of the filler tube and smoke.
I "think" its just the bikes personality and unsolvable but since I have had no other issues I'm happy.
Thanks for the PM.....your knowledge is noted.
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Road-Kill
Oil level can not be "topped off" because as I found out it will flow up and out of the filler tube and smoke.
I "think" its just the bikes personality and unsolvable but since I have had no other issues I'm happy.
Thanks for the PM.....your knowledge is noted.
I'm beginning to believe that several Spyders do have their own personality. Everyone on this forum does an oil change/filter using 5 quarts of oil. I need 6 quarts of oil & that doesn't even bring the oil level near the very top bubble on the oil dipstick. But as you've said--as long as it works-I'm happy.
Darrell
2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black
-
2013 RTL vs 2013 F3T Shifting
Since we're discussing shifting, I'm still trying to find the sweet rpm shift point. I've got a little over 2K miles on it and I think I'm getting there. However is it common to hear it when it makes the shift? Sometimes I can a clunk sound when I am either up or down shifting. It almost sounds like when shifting from neutral to 1st on the RTL only not as bad. Maybe it's more pronounced because I don't have all the tupperware. Oil level is OK by the way.
-
Very Active Member
SHIFTING
-
-
Very Active Member
HUH !
Originally Posted by Road-Kill
Drag racing?
Damn....We are talking about normal every day riding.
YOU are talking about " normal everyday riding " ....... my reference to " Drag Racing " was for informational purposes , I believe that " Knowledge " is important. Annnnnnnnd the question about " how fast are Spyders " has been asked about a Gazillion times here ..... PS my Drag Racing was done on certified sanctioned Racing tracks ....... Mike
-
Originally Posted by ussoldier
That is a good question. I notice that when I held the throttle and punch the (+) than the transmission is smooth. Since, I have a Semi-automatic should I just let up the throttle than shift or should I just hold the throttle and punch the (+)?
If you are not aware of this "sticky" on the "Spyder General Discussion Thread" you might want to check it out. It would have told you not to roll off the throttle when shifting.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Spyder-owners
-
Very Active Member
Last edited by Wildrice; 10-25-2017 at 10:28 PM.
2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black
-
Very Active Member
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|