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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
I might be wrong... but didn't their 2010 setup originally include back-up lights?
It might have. There is no user manual for the 2010 trailer on the BRP website. The earliest is for the 2011 trailer and it shows the trailer as being only a 4 wire system, hence combined turn/stop lights and no backup lights.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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The operative part of that quote is, "should probably have".
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Active Member
Ok this may sound stupid but who is Pierre? Secondly I used to pull a trailer behind my Victory it was a 5 flat, I've just retired it back to 4 flat I hope my new 2016 RT Limited will work properly with the BRP wiring set up. If not I will have to try something different.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by michrick
Ok this may sound stupid but who is Pierre? Secondly I used to pull a trailer behind my Victory it was a 5 flat, I've just retired it back to 4 flat I hope my new 2016 RT Limited will work properly with the BRP wiring set up. If not I will have to try something different.
You shouldn't have any issues with the trailer connected to the RT. You'll need to get or make a 4 square to 4 flat adapter. The easiest way is to cut the 4 flat in two and tape one half above the other and plug it in!
Pierre is SpyderTV. I don't remember what his accessories business name is and I can't find a link right off the bat. He's in Canada.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Active Member
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Very Active Member
trailer hitch OEM or aftermarket
However with a computer controlled cycle you must have electrical isolation to prevent arching into the computer.
I'm confused; where is all the electrical arching coming from with a trailer?????
Al
All the great movements in the world began with a cup of coffee!
2018 F3-T
My mods: Can am Trailer hitch, USB and 12 volt power outlets, Gustason windshield, Bead rider seat cushion, battery harness for electric gear and battery tender, Time out trailer.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by IGETAROUND
However with a computer controlled cycle you must have electrical isolation to prevent arching into the computer.
I'm confused; where is all the electrical arching coming from with a trailer?????
Al
You probably already know this but I read this as a case of the words not conveying the intended meaning. I think he's referring to surges. Apparently the earlier Can Am isolators were sensitive to surges in the ground circuit of the trailer lights if the ground path, or part of it, was made through the tongue and hitch ball contact.
I don't know how vulnerable systems are on other bikes like the Goldwing, but I maintain we need to be careful with the Spyder. The turn signal power comes directly from the cluster with no fuse or other protection in the circuit. If you connect trailer light wiring directly to the bike turn signal wiring you create the possibility of mucking up the cluster. If the turn signal wires on the trailer short out you could, maybe, damage the cluster. That would be a multi hundred dollar repair. You also could strand yourself in the middle of the dessert, or city, or wherever if your cluster goes south. An isolator only pulls enough current from the turn signal wires to activate a relay which sends power from the battery to the trailer lights. If you have a disaster with the trailer wiring the isolator prevents damaging the bike circuits. As for brake and tail lights a short in the trailer won't kill the fuse protecting your bike lights if you have an isolator in the circuit.
The isolator is insurance against unknown failure modes and restricts trailer electrical disasters to the trailer.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by IGETAROUND
However with a computer controlled cycle you must have electrical isolation to prevent arching into the computer.
I'm confused; where is all the electrical arching coming from with a trailer?????
Al
I will try one more time. If the wiring on the trailer should be come frayed and arc to ground, this is called electrical noise. This is what shorts out components in the converter on a Spyder. The idea is to open the circuit fuse and not take out the the circuit. The isolator I use is powered directly from the battery with a master fuse, and each trailer wire has a fuse. THIS IS TOTAL ISOLATION! This is about the best I can do for those of you that do not have an electronic background or just trying to up your thread count.
If I can't fix it, I will fix it so no one can fix it. Sypder Loco!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
You probably already know this but I read this as a case of the words not conveying the intended meaning. I think he's referring to surges. Apparently the earlier Can Am isolators were sensitive to surges in the ground circuit of the trailer lights if the ground path, or part of it, was made through the tongue and hitch ball contact.
I don't know how vulnerable systems are on other bikes like the Goldwing, but I maintain we need to be careful with the Spyder. The turn signal power comes directly from the cluster with no fuse or other protection in the circuit. If you connect trailer light wiring directly to the bike turn signal wiring you create the possibility of mucking up the cluster. If the turn signal wires on the trailer short out you could, maybe, damage the cluster. That would be a multi hundred dollar repair. You also could strand yourself in the middle of the dessert, or city, or wherever if your cluster goes south. An isolator only pulls enough current from the turn signal wires to activate a relay which sends power from the battery to the trailer lights. If you have a disaster with the trailer wiring the isolator prevents damaging the bike circuits. As for brake and tail lights a short in the trailer won't kill the fuse protecting your bike lights if you have an isolator in the circuit.
The isolator is insurance against unknown failure modes and restricts trailer electrical disasters to the trailer.
Thank you, Bill...
If I can't fix it, I will fix it so no one can fix it. Sypder Loco!
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Active Member
I would hope the BRP product would avoid that happening my Yamaha Venture and Victory Cross Country used the happy isolator, no issues plulling the same trailer. If the BRP product dosent prevent any back feed what reason would we use it? I just purchased a 2016 leftover RT Limited and I'm waiting on the BRP hitch and plug and play electrical to come in now I'm on the fence as to what to do
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Active Member
Last thing I want to do is burn up the Peter, sounds to me that BRP is trying you make you buy a RT622 or a Freedom trailer?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by michrick
I would hope the BRP product would avoid that happening my Yamaha Venture and Victory Cross Country used the happy isolator, no issues plulling the same trailer. If the BRP product dosent prevent any back feed what reason would we use it? I just purchased a 2016 leftover RT Limited and I'm waiting on the BRP hitch and plug and play electrical to come in now I'm on the fence as to what to do
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BRP uses the Hoppy Circuit Guardian isolator.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Active Member
Great so I should be all set
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
.
It has an automatic self reset function. A short in the trailer is not going to cause any harm to the unit. The fuse will blow protecting it. Fix the short and replace the fuse no harm done.
In the cases that people have complained that they have burnt out their isolator and it has been blamed on the trailer wiring. The fuse is still intact. The problem is not a short. The problem is a bad intermittent connection. It does not matter if it is a BRP trailer or aftermarket. It can happen on the ground or the power side of the circuit. The electronics in the isolator cannot stand up to being turned on and off hundreds of times per second as the trailer bounces down the road. You have probably followed a trailer down the road with its' lights flickering. That's what kills the isolator module.
Last edited by billybovine; 03-13-2017 at 12:16 PM.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by michrick
Ok this may sound stupid but who is Pierre? Secondly I used to pull a trailer behind my Victory it was a 5 flat, I've just retired it back to 4 flat I hope my new 2016 RT Limited will work properly with the BRP wiring set up. If not I will have to try something different.
His accessory outlet is www.canamspyderaccessories.com.
Pierre is SpyderTV.net and Can Am Spyder Accessories. They are in Canada but he comes down here to many of the Spyder events. He was at Red Rocks last year and I think he is coming back again this year.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Wiring harness 2015 freedom trailer
Originally Posted by pegasus1300
His accessory outlet is www.canamspyderaccessories.com.
Pierre is SpyderTV.net and Can Am Spyder Accessories. They are in Canada but he comes down here to many of the Spyder events. He was at Red Rocks last year and I think he is coming back again this year.
Hitch and control module on its way from BRP ... Hitch will be no problem .. Little worried about the wiring .. Going to attempt myself .. And videos ? Installation manuals out there ? I have a 2015 RTS trailer is a 2015 Freedom trailer
Send links !!!
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Intructions ... not so good
Originally Posted by Blackie312001
Hitch and control module on its way from BRP ... Hitch will be no problem .. Little worried about the wiring .. Going to attempt myself .. And videos ? Installation manuals out there ? I have a 2015 RTS trailer is a 2015 Freedom trailer
Send links !!!
Hitch n module just arrived .. whoa instructions look horrible !!
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BRP trailer hitch n control module
Originally Posted by Blackie312001
Hitch n module just arrived .. whoa instructions look horrible !!
Installed my hitch n control module on my 2015 RTS
Not difficult at all ... 2.5 hrs and I had never removed Tupperware before .
Whew !! Lol
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Active Member
Hitch
I bought an aftermarket hitch off eBay for my 2011 RT Limited, bolted on exactly like the OEM hitch and was removable like the OEM hitch, cost half the price. Also bought an aftermarket tail light converter and wired it to OEM connectors from Tricled so it was all plug and play NO splicing (hate cutting into the harness). Wired it to a standard 4 pin to hook up to a Harbor Freight Tag Along Trailer and no problems, I did have to change the lights on the trailer to LED's.
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