Running Trailer Wiring To The Battery on an 14 RT

[SteveandBelinda]

I was just wondering about a trailer wiring question, others may have suggestions about.
I had a 2010 RT with Big Bike Trailer wiring harness on. Now I have 2014 RT, which the battery in now in front. Since the battery was in the middle of the bike on the 2010 and now it is in the front, hot and cold wires are not long enough. I am thinking maybe I should leave the linkable fuse under the seat where it is easy to get to, or should I stuff it in the battery compartment? Thinking under the seat. But my main question is, how to route the hot and cold wire through the front of the bike. I did not want to have to rip off all of the tupperware on the left side, but don't see any other way. I have a bump skid plate, so I can't get up through there to see much of what I am doing either, and should the shielding on the wire be okay with the heat from the engine and the radiator. It's 14 ga wire.
Suggestions.
I just like other people's opinions.

[billybovine]

Make the wires longer of course. Leave the fuse under the seat somewhere or behind a side panel, easy to get at if needed. There is no battery compartment. It is open to the elements behind the front trunk. Take the side panels off. Run the wires along the outer frame brackets to the front. Just follow the OE wires that are already there. Once you get under the cowl. Fish the wires out the battery cover openig. Cut wires to length and crimp ends on. Attach to battery.

[larryd]

On the 1330 there is an easy place to pick up battery voltage on the alternator at the left side of the bike near the center...larryd

[billybovine]

On the 1330 there is an easy place to pick up battery voltage on the alternator at the left side of the bike near the center...larryd

.

That may be a better spot. I am not a fan of adding extra wires directly to the battery terminal if you have another option. Also for ground. You could find a good chassis ground under the seat somewhere.

[JayD]

Eave fuse under seat. Works good for me.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

[Lucky]

I'm sure many will not think my method was a good idea. I taped together, every foot or so about 12 feet of red and black 14G wire and put it in 1/4 split loom. I pulled the battery cover in the trunk, the small cover above the fuses by the diagnostic plug and the side cover on the right in front of the floor boards. The one that just pops off. The rear cover is off to connect the show chrome harness to the tail lights. I use a 4 foot cable tie and some fiberglass electrical fish rods. From the rear, near the right passenger handle is a channel. You can push the rod through and it comes out the top of the area by the pop off panel. Tape on the wire with loom and pull through a bunch. Use the long cable tie and you can go from the pop off panel area to the opening by the diagnostic port. Tape on wire with loom and pull through. From the diagnostic port area, you can get down to the battery with the cable tie. I put my fuse by the battery since it protects all the wire that way. Pull back any excess wire and cable tie it up and out of the way of anything that moves or is hot. Connect to the power leads for the harness.

As an aside, I taped into the trailer connector leads and put in extra waterproof AMP connectors. I connect my additional LEDs for the running/brake lights I added so they are powered by the trailer module, not the Spyder lights. Good luck!

[SteveandBelinda]

Larry,
Where exactly is that and what tupperware has to be taken off?

On the 1330 there is an easy place to pick up battery voltage on the alternator at the left side of the bike near the center...larryd

[SteveandBelinda]

Did you run yours to the front, and if so how did you route it?

Eave fuse under seat. Works good for me.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

[ceyer69]

Here is what I ended up doing. I didn't like the location of the trailer plug under the saddlebag so I made a jumper harness that I can easily plug in when I am pulling the trailer. I did put fuse link under the seat up through access hole so I can get to it if needed. sorry the pics are sideways!

trailer wiring.jpgtrailer plug.jpg

[SteveandBelinda]

Very interesting. I will have to kick that around. I just got one of the connectors too, because the trailer I got has the other half to that, and I couldn't think of anywhere I could mount that type of connector and was going just make then all flats.

Here is what I ended up doing. I didn't like the location of the trailer plug under the saddlebag so I made a jumper harness that I can easily plug in when I am pulling the trailer. I did put fuse link under the seat up through access hole so I can get to it if needed. sorry the pics are sideways!

trailer wiring.jpgtrailer plug.jpg

[larryd]

Larry,
Where exactly is that and what tupperware has to be taken off?

You will need to take off the left side panels...If you have the inner acoustic panels removed you can usually flex the one panel without removing all them...I've done this several times...Many of us with the RT air scoop kits have removed the acoustic panels...

If you PM me I give you a members number that may be able to send you exact pictures...

larryd

[SteveandBelinda]

Larry,
Got my harness installed and rear end back together. I found the alternator and had to solder an extra lenght of wire on to reach the alternator. Now my question, and I think it may be stupid, but here goes anyway. There are not too many places to ground to, seeing that either something is screwing into plastic or there is paint on the metal and can't get a ground. Now here is the stupid question , the easiest place and closest to the end of the grounding wire is to undo one of the bolts that mount the gas tank to the frame, or there is a bolt sticking up on the back left corner of the top of gas tank that I could just put connector on and place a nut one. Check out the added pic and see what you think. SAFETY ALWAYSGas Tank.jpg

You will need to take off the left side panels...If you have the inner acoustic panels removed you can usually flex the one panel without removing all them...I've done this several times...Many of us with the RT air scoop kits have removed the acoustic panels...

If you PM me I give you a members number that may be able to send you exact pictures...

larryd

[Mjhitman]

Here is what I ended up doing. I didn't like the location of the trailer plug under the saddlebag so I made a jumper harness that I can easily plug in when I am pulling the trailer. I did put fuse link under the seat up through access hole so I can get to it if needed. sorry the pics are sideways!

trailer wiring.jpgtrailer plug.jpg

I have run the wiring from the battery back to the rear for the brake controller that I have mounted inside the rear top trunk. I already have the 4 pin flat along with the 2 extra wires for the electric brakes on the Timeout camper.
I don't like the location of the plugs under the saddlebag either. I really like what you have done with the mounting of the plug in the rear of the saddlebag/fender molding. What are you using to secure the jumper you have made to the hitch? Cannot really make out what you have done and also where did you get them? Another question; is that a standard 6-pin round plug that you have mounted in the bottom of your saddlebag?
Thank you for you help!

Mike
2016 RTL

[larryd]

I have run the wiring from the battery back to the rear for the brake controller that I have mounted inside the rear top trunk. I already have the 4 pin flat along with the 2 extra wires for the electric brakes on the Timeout camper.
I don't like the location of the plugs under the saddlebag either. I really like what you have done with the mounting of the plug in the rear of the saddlebag/fender molding. What are you using to secure the jumper you have made to the hitch? Cannot really make out what you have done and also where did you get them? Another question; is that a standard 6-pin round plug that you have mounted in the bottom of your saddlebag?
Thank you for you help!

Mike
2016 RTL

I used a stretchy velcro strap like electricians use to tie wires together...Just wrap it around the left side of the hitch and secure the trailer wiring under it...simple...