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  1. #1
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    Default Brake Pad Thickness

    I have a 2012 RTL which I bought used with about 8,000 miles and which now has about 18,500 miles. Yesterday I removed the front wheels to check the brake pads, they are about 1/8"-3/16" thick. Qusetion is, is it time to replace? I don't know if they are the orginal pads or not? What is everyone thinking on the min thickness of pads?

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default BRAKE PADS

    The OEM pads have grooves cut down the middle ( after-market EBC like Bajaron's don't ) if you can still see the line you have pad left ....... Ron has often said people ( and especially dealers ) will change pads way before their time ..... I have 28,000 on my RT and still have Pad ....... Mike

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    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Minimum thickness is 1 mm. That's not much, but they are not very thick to start with.

    You need to check the rear inside brake pad first. It's going to wear out long before the fronts will.

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    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Default Thx Bob!

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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    Minimum thickness is 1 mm. That's not much, but they are not very thick to start with.

    You need to check the rear inside brake pad first. It's going to wear out long before the fronts will.
    1 mm. is .040" (approximately)
    If you have at least 1/8" left: (.125"); you're still good to go!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    1 mm. is .040" (approximately)
    If you have at least 1/8" left: (.125"); you're still good to go!
    He must ensure the thickness does not include the backing plate.

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    Thanks guys, looks like I am OK on the front, didn't check the rear but will do in next day or so. Again thanks

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default MM =

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    1 mm. is .040" (approximately)
    If you have at least 1/8" left: (.125"); you're still good to go!
    And 1/8 - .125 = 3.175mm ....... Mike

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    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  10. #10
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default PAD THICKNESS

    I just measured a set of EBC - REAR pads and they 4mm ( =/- a hair ) new ..... I would imagine the OEM's are the same .....Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 02-01-2017 at 01:23 PM.

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    So since his pads measure 3.175 mm right now: he's got enough left on the fronts to relax...
    But the pads on the rear DO wear out a lot quicker!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default There you go....

    All of the above.. just remember the rears go first, Se5/6 go faster and mileage does not apply here do to ryding style and trans type....
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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default BRAKE PAD WEAR

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    So since his pads measure 3.175 mm right now: he's got enough left on the fronts to relax...
    But the pads on the rear DO wear out a lot quicker!
    In reality Brake Pads wear very slowly ( normally ) start to finish 3mm = about 30,000 miles as a safe estimate. I'm at 29,000 and I know from measuring them my fronts are fine ..... I do need to check my rears again...... I did look at them 4,000 miles ago and they weren't close ........ I've read here about Dealers telling people that they need PADS at 10 to 12,000 miles ...... I have serious DOUBTS those people are being told the truth.... Being at least able to do some of the maintenance on the Spyder is going to save you a TON of money. Right now I figure I haven't spent a any money for gas, oil, insurance, registration, etc. ........The generous people on this site have helped me frequently in saving my money ......Thank you ......... Mike

  14. #14
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Information tidbits.

    1mm is the wear limit (as reported by several here)

    1mm is about 3/4 the width of a dime. (Not much)

    Brake pad wear slows down as the pad gets thinner. The 2nd half of the pad will last much longer than the 1st 1/2. Most people replace them with more than 1/2 the mileage left.

    The 2008-2012 BRP brake system will typically wear 2 sets of rear pads to every set of front pads.

    The 2013+ Brembo brake system Spyders (a much improved system) wear the front and rear pads pretty evenly.

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    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post

    The 2008-2012 BRP brake system will typically wear 2 sets of rear pads to every set of front pads.

    The 2013+ Brembo brake system Spyders (a much improved system) wear the front and rear pads pretty evenly.
    .

    That's not my experience. I have changed the pads on my 2013 ST with Brembo brakes, once. The rears where worn out. The front looked like they were only half worn out, but I changed them anyway.

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  16. #16
    Very Active Member IGETAROUND's Avatar
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    Default Brake Pad Thickness

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    The OEM pads have grooves cut down the middle ( after-market EBC like Bajaron's don't ) if you can still see the line you have pad left ....... Ron has often said people ( and especially dealers ) will change pads way before their time ..... I have 28,000 on my RT and still have Pad ....... Mike
    But Mike, You never use your brakes; only your right wrist!!!

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  17. #17
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default BRAKING

    Quote Originally Posted by IGETAROUND View Post
    But Mike, You never use your brakes; only your right wrist!!!

    Al
    ....... plus I don't use down shifting either ........ Mike

  18. #18
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    I just got a quote from Malcom Motorsport for a 14,000 mile service is a thousand and change. Having my 10,000 mile service and it was 526. Is this normal for a 2012 rt?


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    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    I have a 2011 RTS , I have a little over 53,000 miles. I have to change my rear pads every spring. I average 12 to 14,000 miles on rear pads. I am still on my original front pads. Bruce

  20. #20
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default REAR PADS

    Quote Originally Posted by safecracker View Post
    I have a 2011 RTS , I have a little over 53,000 miles. I have to change my rear pads every spring. I average 12 to 14,000 miles on rear pads. I am still on my original front pads. Bruce
    Bruce, it sounds like you are doing your own work......... so I think you know what the Pads are supposed to look like ............ 14,000 on the rears ???? I think they are dragging ........... I agree that the fronts last a lot longer , but not ....4 X longer ..... jmho .... Mike

  21. #21
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    .

    That's not my experience. I have changed the pads on my 2013 ST with Brembo brakes, once. The rears where worn out. The front looked like they were only half worn out, but I changed them anyway.
    It depends on how you ride, how much weight you carry, pull a trailer, flatland vs mountains, etc. My statements were not universal. Just what I see the most of.
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  22. #22
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    When I changed my brake pads at a little over 26000,the fronts still had 1.5 mm,but since I was there I changed them. The rears were within a Nat's hair of being metal to metal. I don't think I could have waited another week. It has always been my habit to use my transmission to slow down. I do ride hard.

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  23. #23
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    I also downshift to help slow down. I actuall downshift two gears at a time. It sounds like Mike, whose opinion I trust, is saying that not downshifting when slowing down prolongs brake life. So which method of slowing down prolongs brake life? Downshifting to use the engine to help slow down, or just using the brakes to slow down and then downshifting to the proper gear when getting ready to accelerate again?

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  24. #24
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default downshifting

    Quote Originally Posted by Bam Bam and Pebbles View Post
    I also downshift to help slow down. I actuall downshift two gears at a time. It sounds like Mike, whose opinion I trust, is saying that not downshifting when slowing down prolongs brake life. So which method of slowing down prolongs brake life? Downshifting to use the engine to help slow down, or just using the brakes to slow down and then downshifting to the proper gear when getting ready to accelerate again?
    No that's not why I said that ...... I don't use the transmission because, that and the clutch are expensive to repair/replace ...... Mike

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    Tan fo. (Southern for 10-4,and there is a story behind that)

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