Maintenance feedback.

[tecnodog7]

Hello peoples.

As you all know by now my basic and sometimes annoying question so I'd like to thank you all for being patience with me before I begin.

I have been doing research online about spyder maintenance and I have come along this guy who is amazing. His name is spyder stuff on youtube and going through his videos he goes over alot of stuff. Couple of the stuff which I watched was draining the coolant in the can am and bleeding the brakers.

I also saw the video on how to check the valve clearances and I gave up with with that idea since he almost took half the bike apart. (I'm a computer monkey so I don't do well with hands on things) but with that being said he did mention that the above things should be done at 20,000KM= 13,000 miles exactly what I have.

Any thoughts and recommendation? Also while I am at it are there other things I should get done too? Ordered the oil and stuff from Ron(he's the man poor guy had to deal with me for a few days with the non stop questions) so I'm making a list of all the work I need ( and want to can't wait to rip the bike apart to an extent ) get done.

Also thinking of adding the spyderpop heat management thingy (since i rode in slippers once and it almost gave me a unnecessary tan). Anything better than this or this is the best there is?
http://spyderpops.com/the-air-manage...s-rs-rss-only/

Once again thank you for reading / feedback.

[IGETAROUND]

Hey Tecnodog7,

Your 2009 Can Am Spyder SE5 GS has the correct mileage for antifreeze change and the brake fluids to be changed and the brakes bled until there is pristine clean fluid coming through.

Your owners manual has a complete listing of things that need attention.

You might want to pick up a Green Manual on line to give you a more in depth look @ the nuts and bolts of things. make yourself a list of what you need to do, then systematically go about completing the needed items.

Laser alignment should be right up there on the list of to do things if you haven't had that done.

Keep those RPM's up above 4000 to keep those clutches fully engaged.

Enjoy the journey,

Al in Kazoo

[tecnodog7]

[QUOTE=IGETAROUND;1220013]Hey Tecnodog7,

Laser alignment should be right up there on the list of to do things if you haven't had that done.

Keep those RPM's up above 4000 to keep those clutches fully engaged.

/QUOTE]

Laser alignment . That's the first I've heard of it. Damn it I should have gotten a bike with all the work done on it lol

My friend has a shop that I was going to go and do all the work(the little stuff which didn't look so hard to do myself) there but if there are more things then maybe I should get it outsourced?

I also read another person on the forum doing the 14.5k maintenance and I'm not sure if this is along that alley or not. Many people here have said that they didn't need the valve work done so i'm going to go with their suggestion but I'm just concerned and worried now that if there is a lot then maybe I might be way in over my head.

[ARtraveler]

Don't waste your time or money on valve checks. They are recommended at 14K intervals. The dealers charge $800 extra. I actually did two. One at 14K on one and one at 28K on the other. Neither needed adjusting. $1,600 out the door. I am not planning on doing it on my 2011 until at least 50K. I know there are some dealers out there that charge for the service and don't even turn a screwdriver in the process. DIY--will save you money, but I don't think it is a worthy issue.

[PistonBlown]

Hello peoples.

As you all know by now my basic and sometimes annoying question so I'd like to thank you all for being patience with me before I begin.

I have been doing research online about spyder maintenance and I have come along this guy who is amazing. His name is spyder stuff on youtube and going through his videos he goes over alot of stuff. Couple of the stuff which I watched was draining the coolant in the can am and bleeding the brakers.

I also saw the video on how to check the valve clearances and I gave up with with that idea since he almost took half the bike apart. (I'm a computer monkey so I don't do well with hands on things) but with that being said he did mention that the above things should be done at 20,000KM= 13,000 miles exactly what I have.

Any thoughts and recommendation? Also while I am at it are there other things I should get done too? Ordered the oil and stuff from Ron(he's the man poor guy had to deal with me for a few days with the non stop questions) so I'm making a list of all the work I need ( and want to can't wait to rip the bike apart to an extent ) get done.

Also thinking of adding the spyderpop heat management thingy (since i rode in slippers once and it almost gave me a unnecessary tan). Anything better than this or this is the best there is?
http://spyderpops.com/the-air-manage...s-rs-rss-only/

Once again thank you for reading / feedback.

Agree with akspyderman, don't worry about the valve check at that mileage - I've never heard anyone saying they needed adjustment.

With the clutch and brake fluid it's possible it's already been done due to the age of the Spyder so you could always try bleeding a little and seeing what it looks like - if it is mucky then replace it. It's a relatively simple procedure so worth doing anyway for piece of mind.

In your handbook it probably says you need to do service your Spyder every 5,000km (3,100 miles) . However back in May 2012 they introduced a new service interval that changed this to ever 7,500km (4,600 miles) for all Spyder models. Not sure if you've got details of this revised schedule but I've got a copy of it on my Microsoft OneDrive that can be downloaded:https://1drv.ms/b/s!Am_pH3i-LyXinFJBWxofBqHTcVT5. The services go, roughly speaking, minor (4600 miles) /major (9200 miles). A minor service just being a oil and filter change with a major involving a few other checks. Personally I like to change my oil and filter more often so I do two minor services at 3,100 miles between each major service.

Wheel alignment. Again it's quite possible this has already been done on your Spyder. One way to quickly check is to look at the front tires, if one or both are worn more on the inside or outside then it's likely the alignment is out. Many dealers didn't do a particularly good job of wheel alignment during the initial setup. In addition the Spyder handling is very sensitive to issues at the front-end, I've found you can even feel it if one of the front tires is a different pressure from the other. Because of this it's worth getting done at some point. I got mine done not long after buying my Spyder - it wasn't out by much but it did make quite a difference. I got it done a second time a couple of years later when I noticed one tire beginning to wear unevenly, again wasn't out my much but the alignment sorted the problem. Worth logging a question on here to see who people recommend in your area.

Keep an eye on your rear tire as often wear quickly. A lot of us switch to car tires on the back as we find the Kenda's that come with Spyders manage somehow to mix poor grip with poor wear. There's a few options you can go to and a quick search on this site will bring up quite a few suggestions. It's worth checking what model Spyder the person who's posting has got though - RT requirements tend to be different from us GS/RS riders.

Though I've not fitted it myself as I don't do much city riding (and always wear boots:-)) Spyderpops kit is considered the best fix for the hot right foot issue on our model Spyders. One thing worth checking is the y gasket on the exhaust if the heats really bad. There's a Honda gasket which is better made that people normally use as a replacement, a search on this site should find you the part number if you do need it.

Spark Plugs. If you've still got the standard air-filter then you'll find changing the spark plugs a bit of a mission so it's worth fitting the iridium ones that Ron sells so you don't need to change them so often. Regardless of which spark plug you fit if the plug leads are the original ones (black) then replace them with new leads from Ron when you change the plugs. The original leads have a habit of playing up after they have been touched.

Finally I actually find the Spyder is a nice bike to work on/tinker with.

[tecnodog7]

Thank you for that details answer.

The only thing which concerns me is changing the spark plug because from what I have seen online you need to take off the center (air filter). Most of the stuff beside the alignment was something I wanted to do anyway. Wasn't too sure if I wanted to do the Y gasket but now that you mention it if i'm removing a lot of the stuff then I might as well.

I'm just a bit nervous since I don't usually do hands on stuff and I just don't want to screw something over which will cost me more than getting things done. I will start it off slow, take the panels off and do the oil change and the radiator flush and then move onto the bigger things after I feel a bit confident such as the gasket / spark plugs.

I appreciate all the help and feedback from you guys.

[IGETAROUND]

Thank you for that details answer.

The only thing which concerns me is changing the spark plug because from what I have seen online you need to take off the center (air filter). Most of the stuff beside the alignment was something I wanted to do anyway. Wasn't too sure if I wanted to do the Y gasket but now that you mention it if i'm removing a lot of the stuff then I might as well.

I'm just a bit nervous since I don't usually do hands on stuff and I just don't want to screw something over which will cost me more than getting things done. I will start it off slow, take the panels off and do the oil change and the radiator flush and then move onto the bigger things after I feel a bit confident such as the gasket / spark plugs.

I appreciate all the help and feedback from you guys.

Tecnodog7,

Akspyderman, and Piston blown have you well covered. I have 36K on my 2014 and never had the valve covers off and don't plan on look till at least 50K on the clock.

About those spark plugs, do NOT touch them until you have a new set of plugs and wires IN HAND from Bajaron a site sponsor. Just send him a note on what year, model & transmission type you have and he'll fix you right up!!! The stock wires tend to go completely south once you touch them; hell sometimes when you just look hard @ them!!!

While your @ it might just as well replace your air filter with one from Ron also; they are re cleanable so it will be the last one you ever have to purchase.

Ron can fix you up for oil, filters and all sorts of things; send him a line, outstanding guy to deal with.

Good luck on your wrenching and let us know how it went when you've finally broken your cherry!!!!!!!!!!!

Al in Kazoo

[tecnodog7]

Tecnodog7,

Akspyderman, and Piston blown have you well covered. I have 36K on my 2014 and never had the valve covers off and don't plan on look till at least 50K on the clock.

About those spark plugs, do NOT touch them until you have a new set of plugs and wires IN HAND from Bajaron a site sponsor. Just send him a note on what year, model & transmission type you have and he'll fix you right up!!! The stock wires tend to go completely south once you touch them; hell sometimes when you just look hard @ them!!!

While your @ it might just as well replace your air filter with one from Ron also; they are re cleanable so it will be the last one you ever have to purchase.

Ron can fix you up for oil, filters and all sorts of things; send him a line, outstanding guy to deal with.

Good luck on your wrenching and let us know how it went when you've finally broken your cherry!!!!!!!!!!!

Al in Kazoo

Haha thanks. I've just ordered my oil / kit from Ron so I guess I'll bug him again about the spark plugs and the air filter as well.

[PistonBlown]

Firstly I agree with IGetAround that it's well worth doing the air filter at the same time as the sparks as you'll be removing it anyway.

However looking at this thread it starts off with an oil change, next thing it's sparks, HT leads, air filter, heat kit, alignments....We're giving you a bigger and bigger list of things to do/check/replace for this service:-)

Must admit I ended up removing the stock air filter box and fitting one of JT's air filters just to make maintenance/tinkering easier - though the resulting induction roar was pretty cool as well. No need to got that far this time though:-)

[tecnodog7]

Firstly I agree with IGetAround that it's well worth doing the air filter at the same time as the sparks as you'll be removing it anyway.

However looking at this thread it starts off with an oil change, next thing it's sparks, HT leads, air filter, heat kit, alignments....We're giving you a bigger and bigger list of things to do/check/replace for this service:-)

Must admit I ended up removing the stock air filter box and fitting one of JT's air filters just to make maintenance/tinkering easier - though the resulting induction roar was pretty cool as well. No need to got that far this time though:-)

That's quite alright. I rather have the laundry list of things that needs to be done and as I'm taking the bike apart I might as well get all the thing done at once rather than having to take apart everything all over again. Looking at the JT's air filter now as we speak. LOL

I will start ripping the Tupperware soon and just do it slowly.

[corpssgt]

Im a newbie over here but I see a disturbing trend and want to get clarification. Have any of you guys that do your own maintenance done the valve check and found all was well? I ride a kawasaki concours and it is alarmingly common for every person who takes their bikes to the shop to be told all valves good to go. Meanwhile every person that does their own finds the majority is out of spec. Just curious because I don't like to pay people to not do proper maintenance on a bike. Do these engines just not need the valves adjusted often. Once again no offense to dealers many of them are great but I would just like to hear from individuals that have done the valve check.

[PistonBlown]

Im a newbie over here but I see a disturbing trend and want to get clarification. Have any of you guys that do your own maintenance done the valve check and found all was well? I ride a kawasaki concours and it is alarmingly common for every person who takes their bikes to the shop to be told all valves good to go. Meanwhile every person that does their own finds the majority is out of spec. Just curious because I don't like to pay people to not do proper maintenance on a bike. Do these engines just not need the valves adjusted often. Once again no offense to dealers many of them are great but I would just like to hear from individuals that have done the valve check.

One of the local riders who has a 2008 GS and a 2010 RS has checked his several times and never had to adjust them, both his Spyders are high mileage now - he was the one who recommended to me to leave them:-)

However it's a personal choice so if it makes you nervous then check them out. I'm like that with tires and oil, changing both more frequently than others do.

[tecnodog7]

Im a newbie over here but I see a disturbing trend and want to get clarification. Have any of you guys that do your own maintenance done the valve check and found all was well? I ride a kawasaki concours and it is alarmingly common for every person who takes their bikes to the shop to be told all valves good to go. Meanwhile every person that does their own finds the majority is out of spec. Just curious because I don't like to pay people to not do proper maintenance on a bike. Do these engines just not need the valves adjusted often. Once again no offense to dealers many of them are great but I would just like to hear from individuals that have done the valve check.

You can message akspyderman. He is the one who took the hit for all of us.
"Don't waste your time or money on valve checks. They are recommended at 14K intervals. The dealers charge $800 extra. I actually did two. One at 14K on one and one at 28K on the other. Neither needed adjusting. $1,600 out the door. I am not planning on doing it on my 2011 until at least 50K. I know there are some dealers out there that charge for the service and don't even turn a screwdriver in the process. DIY--will save you money, but I don't think it is a worthy issue"

[corpssgt]

You can message akspyderman. He is the one who took the hit for all of us.
"Don't waste your time or money on valve checks. They are recommended at 14K intervals. The dealers charge $800 extra. I actually did two. One at 14K on one and one at 28K on the other. Neither needed adjusting. $1,600 out the door. I am not planning on doing it on my 2011 until at least 50K. I know there are some dealers out there that charge for the service and don't even turn a screwdriver in the process. DIY--will save you money, but I don't think it is a worthy issue"

Thanks for the reply but it looks like he took his to a dealer. I don't trust dealers to do things like the valve adjustments. Keep in mind this has nothing to do with can am shops. I ride a kawasaki concours. It is a great bike but the shims seem to need replacing every time a person does their own check. If they go to the dealer always the same story nope they are all in spec. It is also an expensive check on that bike to the tune of about $800. Concours riders are cheap by nature so they tend to do a lot of their own maintenance. Hell I change my own tires to save 100 bucks twice a year. I was hoping there would be a number of people who checked their own and came back with the conclusion that they don't seem to go out too often. I will also admit im a bit of a maintenance freak because I used to do it for a living and now I teach it. I would guess my wifes bike will get to 14k this year so next winter I will tear into the project and see where it comes out. The downside of not doing the check is a possibility for a blown motor so I think its probably a worthy issue. Thanks for the replies this forum is a great resource for me.

Side note my wife is a teacher and she will be in school while spyderfest is going on. I told her I was going to take her bike down there and got a pretty mean look from her. Hoping to meet some of you on the road but may not be allowed to.

[vinsanity666]

Yeah, service costs are so high it seems ya gotta learn. My 9,000 mile service was 526. Not too sure what they do other than regular oil change. The dealer told me 1,136 for the 14,000 mile service. Glad I heard about valves. Mine is a 2012 RTL and hope the valves can do a lot better than 14,000.


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[tecnodog7]

My list of things I need to get done.

Things I got from Ron,
Oil
Filter
Spark plugs
Air filter
Spark plug wires.


Debating
JT Air filter -- beside having more room any other benefits
Two brothers exhaust I found online. (Only reason is because I don't know if I need to install a juice box or not)