2012 RT SE5 stalling in idle

[ahh-cool]

I brought the bike into the shop to replace the exhaust gaskets. It was running great after they did the job. Did a 300 mile trip and then I had problems with shifting and stalling out.
Replaced the 2 little vacuum hoses on the L/H side and it shifts good but still stalls out at idle. It seams to run fine at high RPM. I was thinking fuel filter but figured if the fuel filter is clogged it would not run high RPM. What else should I look for.

I have replaced the air filter with JT's air filter kit. Removed the catalytic converter and wrapped the pipes.
When I check for codes it does not show any
Stefan

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hey Stefan.
Having done those mods myself - JT's air filter and Cat removal - it's not typical that they cause stalling at idle. That's still a text book symptom of a vacuum leak. You've addressed one of the three most common sources. The other two are the rubber boots that mount the throttle bodies, and the purge valve sticking open.

You'll want to give those boots a good visual inspection for cracks and ensure that the screw clamps that hold the throttle bodies are tight. Purge valves sometimes mechanically fail internally and allow a vacuum leak because they don't close when required. Typically, performing a canisterectomy eliminates that problem and all future ones. Do a forum search. Or as a quick check, you can cut the clamp off and plug the line to see if the problem goes away. Leave the valve hooked up electrically though or you'll generate a code. To remove the canister, you'll need to move the fuel filter around and out of the way, anyway, so it's always a good opportunity to replace it and be done with it for another five years.

On a side note, removing both the air box for JT's air filter and removing the Cat on the 2012, takes the fuel injection system right to the limit of being able to compensate for the mixture leaning out. So in the future, if you should get a check engine light, along with a lean code for bank 1 or 2, that's probably because there's no more adjustment left for the fuel trim. That's how I ended up installing the Power Commander myself. It solves the problem, but it's just another 500 bucks.

Good Luck. Report back.

Edit: So, as long as we're spending your money for you, if you're still running the original plugs and wires, time for them to go, too. It got really hot in there over the years and the OEM wires are crap to begin with. Not a typical reason for stalling at idle but eliminates a potential issue. Go with BajaRon.

[ahh-cool]

Hey Stefan.
Having done those mods myself - JT's air filter and Cat removal - it's not typical that they cause stalling at idle. That's still a text book symptom of a vacuum leak. You've addressed one of the three most common sources. The other two are the rubber boots that mount the throttle bodies, and the purge valve sticking open.

You'll want to give those boots a good visual inspection for cracks and ensure that the screw clamps that hold the throttle bodies are tight. Purge valves sometimes mechanically fail internally and allow a vacuum leak because they don't close when required. Typically, performing a canisterectomy eliminates that problem and all future ones. Do a forum search. Or as a quick check, you can cut the clamp off and plug the line to see if the problem goes away. Leave the valve hooked up electrically though or you'll generate a code. To remove the canister, you'll need to move the fuel filter around and out of the way, anyway, so it's always a good opportunity to replace it and be done with it for another five years.

On a side note, removing both the air box for JT's air filter and removing the Cat on the 2012, takes the fuel injection system right to the limit of being able to compensate for the mixture leaning out. So in the future, if you should get a check engine light, along with a lean code for bank 1 or 2, that's probably because there's no more adjustment left for the fuel trim. That's how I ended up installing the Power Commander myself. It solves the problem, but it's just another 500 bucks.

Good Luck. Report back.

Edit: So, as long as we're spending your money for you, if you're still running the original plugs and wires, time for them to go, too. It got really hot in there over the years and the OEM wires are crap to begin with. Not a typical reason for stalling at idle but eliminates a potential issue. Go with BajaRon.

I did the canisterectomy also. I will check the purge valve if it's still on there. I don't remember what I did when I did it 2 years ago. As for the plugs and wires, I went to remove the plugs today to check and couldn't get the wires off. I will order new and when they come in I will replace them. I will look for another vacuum leak. I'm assuming I can look for leaks with wd40 spraying it on the hoses and gaskets and if I get a positive change in RPM that would be the leak
Any other ideas?

[Bob Denman]

Just for grins & giggles: try running some Sea-Foam in the fuel, and see if it makes a difference.
(I'm thinking a bad tank of gas!)

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I have no experience using WD40 for that. Sounds like it should work in theory. The challenge might be keeping the motor running at idle speed long enough to do the checks. Plug wires wise - that's what they do - melt themselves onto the plug and you have to destroy them to remove them. Seafoam never hurts, either.

[GOZFST]

Seafoam cured the stalling at idle on my 08GS.

[quasi]

start it up and throttle it just enough to keep it running. spray wd40 around the vac hoses and throttle bodies. if there is a vac leak the wd40 will smooth it for a few seconds, it should anyway. its a good way to pinpoint a vac leak.

[ahh-cool]

I put some cleaner in the tank a month ago when I first had a problem, before I found the vacuum leaks.
Yesterday I started it up and it kept sputtering and shutting off.
I started to drive it and it ran like crap.
As soon as it warmed up it started to run good. I did some errands and then shut it off for a couple of hours.
When I turned it back on it ran good.
This morning I started it up and let it idle and no problems.
I'm guessing the nanny had to clear itself