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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by billybovine
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Good explanation but I have to disagree about the risk to the cluster. Power for the turn signals and hazard lights are provided by and protected by 2 different fuses. The fuses are where they should be between the positive source and the first device in the circuit (cluster).
You're right. What I meant is there is no fuse between the cluster and turn signals. I have no idea how detrimental to the cluster a short to ground, or a hot wire back feeding into the turn signal lead, might be. I sure wouldn't want to depend on the fuse ahead of the cluster to provide protection in that case. It's quite possible the cluster electronics are made rugged enough to tolerate such a fault, but we don't know. Hence my strong recommendation an isolator be used.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
You're right. What I meant is there is no fuse between the cluster and turn signals. I have no idea how detrimental to the cluster a short to ground, or a hot wire back feeding into the turn signal lead, might be. I sure wouldn't want to depend on the fuse ahead of the cluster to provide protection in that case. It's quite possible the cluster electronics are made rugged enough to tolerate such a fault, but we don't know. Hence my strong recommendation an isolator be used.
The turn signal circuit is protected by a 15 amp fuse and the hazard lights are protected by a 10 amp fuse. At least 2013 models are. I would be very surprised the cluster cannot take a momentary load exceeding that.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by billybovine
The turn signal circuit is protected by a 15 amp fuse and the hazard lights are protected by a 10 amp fuse. At least 2013 models are. I would be very surprised the cluster cannot take a momentary load exceeding that.
ST must be different from the RT. I sure don't see any kind of fuse between the cluster and turn signal lamps on the 2013 RT wiring diagram. Only thing between the cluster and turn signal lamps are wires and connectors.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
ST must be different from the RT. I sure don't see any kind of fuse between the cluster and turn signal lamps on the 2013 RT wiring diagram. Only thing between the cluster and turn signal lamps are wires and connectors.
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Of course there is no fuse between the cluster and the lights. That would be the wrong place for the fuse. That would leave the cluster unprotected in case of short between it and the fuse. The fuse is where it should be on a negative ground system. Between the positive source and the cluster. As mentioned a couple posts above. In case of the 2013 RT and ST that is the 15 amp fuse F1 in the Left Fuse Box. I also took another look at the hazard lights. The switch is on another fuse but that is signal voltage for the cluster and not power for the lights.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Hitch & harness
We have the same bike you have (2015 RT-S) and an Aluma trailer (2010 year), I installed these with the greatest of ease, and works perfectly !
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Very Active Member
ok, finally took possession of the Aluma trailer and took a few pictures of the power connector that is on the trailer. Do they make a pigtail or convertor to go from the trailer connector to the trailer hitch connector? I haven't purchased the Trailer hitch as yet and trying to figure what trailer hitch to go with, either the Show Chrome or the BRP OEM trailer hitch. Those that have the Show Chrome or BRP, please chime in. Is one better made than the other? Here are the pictures of the power connector on the trailer.
IMG_0969.jpgIMG_0967.jpgIMG_0968.jpgIMG_0966.jpg
2017 F3 Limited in Intense Red Pearl
2008 Triumph Rocket (SOLD)
2002 Honda VTX 1800 C ( SOLD)
2014 Triumph Thunderbird Commander
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