Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 64
  1. #1
    Very Active Member Ex-Rocket's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Marion, Arkansas
    Posts
    869

    Default Questions regarding trailer hitch & module for 2015 RTS

    I just purchased a used trailer and now I have to find a trailer hitch & module. The trailer which is an Aluma Motorcycle trailer, 2004 year model and has a 4 prong plug, I believe he said. I don't have the trailer in my procession as yet or I would try to describe it. Which is best, BRP, Show Chrome, etc? I read several posts that the BRP module got fried for whatever reason, specifically not properly grounded. Are there other modules out there that are better and less likely to get fried? All suggestions welcome. Let the suggestions begin. Thanks to all
    2015 RTS SE6 Purchased March 2015

  2. #2
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Mitchell, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    4,132

    Default

    If you are correct and the trailer is a 4 wire. (No amber turns signal lights) You can go either way, BRP or Show Chrome.

    If you choose the BRP hitch. It comes as a complete kit. Wiring harness (isolated and converted 5 to 4), hitch and mud flap, etc. The plug on the BRP harness will be a square 4 and the trailer will be likely a flat 4. So you will need to cut one off and change it or make an adapter.

    If you choose to go with the Show Chrome hitch. You will need to buy the parts that go together. You need the hitch, mud flap and wiring harness. The wiring harness from Show Chrome ends in 5 bare wires, no plug. It is isolated but not converted. So you will also need to buy a converter. Commonly referred to as a 3 to 2 converter. Also a matching plug to your trailer.

    Blowing out modules problem. Usually that is caused by faulty wiring in the trailer. Bad connection not a short and quite often that bad connection is on the ground side.

    2013 ST LIMITED BLACK CURRANT
    Lugg & Roll trailer
    Show Chrome Hitch.
    Gorilla Alarm
    Sena SM10 Bluetooth Dongle, with homemade harness
    USB power outlet.
    3 button garage door opener.

  3. #3
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Spring City,Utah
    Posts
    1,416

    Default

    Check with Pierre at Spydertv.net. He has a really nice hitch that won't move on you after you use it for a bit. He may also be able to suggest some wiring solutions for you.

    Happy TRAils/NSD
    Paul

    2012 RT L
    AMA
    TRA
    PGR
    Rhino Riders Plate #83
    Venturers #78
    Venture Riders
    TOI

  4. #4
    Active Member LJspydee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Casa GrandeAZ/formally WaterlooIA
    Posts
    136

    Default

    A module from an auto parts store works also for about $25.
    2013 Silverado 2500HD Duramax
    2007 PT Cruiser
    2010 Outlander Max 650XT
    2015 RTS SE6 Intense Red Pearl
    2014 35' Keystone Fuzion Impact Toyhauler
    Ultimate Seats passenger backrest, Adjustable wind deflectors, Minitrailer USA trailer, Can Am driver backrest, Corbin passenger armrests, after market hitch, DIY bump skid, LED turn indicaters, cup holders, frunk decal stripes, DIY GPS mount, DIY Gopro dash mount, aux 12v & USB outlets, DIY belt rock shield, BajaRon swaybar, frunk 12v outlet

  5. #5
    Very Active Member IGETAROUND's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Kalamazoo, Mi
    Posts
    1,208

    Default tailer hitch and module

    The wiring harness from Show Chrome ends in 5 bare wires, no plug. It is isolated but not converted. So you will also need to buy a converter. Commonly referred to as a 3 to 2 converter. Also a matching plug to your trailer.

    Billybovine,

    What do you mean when you say it (the wiring harness) is isolated but not converted???
    Al in Kazoo
    All the great movements in the world began with a cup of coffee!


    2014 RS SM 5


    My mods: trailer hitch, outlets for GPS and I-touch to listen to music with. Mad Stad 22 in touring windshield, clear protective wrap on side panels and behind steering head, neoprene grip cushions, Bead rider seat cushion, Smooth Spyder backrest, Day Long seat, Time out trailer, Garmin 660.

  6. #6
    Active Member fencepost's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Thorn Hill, TN
    Posts
    435

    Default

    Contact Lewis @ Electrical Connection, he is a site Sponsor, he is working on a wiring kit now.
    SpYderman

  7. #7
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    3,578

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IGETAROUND View Post
    The wiring harness from Show Chrome ends in 5 bare wires, no plug. It is isolated but not converted. So you will also need to buy a converter. Commonly referred to as a 3 to 2 converter. Also a matching plug to your trailer.

    Billybovine,

    What do you mean when you say it (the wiring harness) is isolated but not converted???
    Al in Kazoo
    The isolator is a module that uses the turn/stop/tail light power as a trigger to send power to the trailer lights which comes directly from the battery. This isolates the trailer wiring from the bike wiring so any shorts or other problems with the trailer lights will not affect the bike lights. On the Spyder the turn signal power comes from the cluster with no fuse or other protection. A short in the trailer wiring, if it were connected directly to the bike wiring, could MAYBE, stress maybe, cause problems with the cluster. That is potentially about an $800 problem.

    The wiring on the Spyder is 5 wire, i.e., left signal, right signal, brake signal, tail light signal, and ground. That means separate turn and brake lights, i.e., amber turn and red brake lights. A four wire system has left turn/brake signal, right turn/brake signal, tail light signal, and ground. That means the same red light is used for turn and brake. A converter takes the 5 wire signal and converts it into a 4 wire signal.
    Last edited by IdahoMtnSpyder; 01-10-2017 at 08:53 PM.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis handlebars, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, Lamont's NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, trailer wiring module and harness, high mount brake light and turn signals, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  8. #8
    Active Member Haze's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Carnegie, PA
    Posts
    172

    Default Trailer Module

    Here is a posting that shows how to replace the BRP Module if it fails. He ultimately changed from Hopkins Module to a Curt unit with success.
    See the https://myspyderstuff.wordpress.com/2014/12/14/2013-spyder-st-hitch-converter-replacement/ link for a detailed description of that first replacement.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Mitchell, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    4,132

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    The isolator is a module that uses the turn/stop/tail light power as a trigger to send power to the trailer lights which comes directly from the battery. This isolates the trailer wiring from the bike wiring so any shorts or other problems with the trailer lights will not affect the bike lights. On the Spyder the turn signal power comes from the cluster with no fuse or other protection. A short in the trailer wiring, if it were connected directly to the bike wiring, could MAYBE, stress maybe, cause problems with the cluster. That is potentially about an $800 problem.

    The wiring on the Spyder is 5 wire, i.e., left signal, right signal, brake signal, tail light signal, and ground. That means separate turn and brake lights, i.e., amber turn and red brake lights. A four wire system has left turn/brake signal, right turn/brake signal, tail light signal, and ground. That means the same red light is used for turn and brake. A converter takes the 5 wire signal and converts it into a 4 wire signal.
    .

    Good explanation but I have to disagree about the risk to the cluster. Power for the turn signals and hazard lights are provided by and protected by 2 different fuses. The fuses are where they should be between the positive source and the first device in the circuit (cluster).

    2013 ST LIMITED BLACK CURRANT
    Lugg & Roll trailer
    Show Chrome Hitch.
    Gorilla Alarm
    Sena SM10 Bluetooth Dongle, with homemade harness
    USB power outlet.
    3 button garage door opener.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    3,578

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    .

    Good explanation but I have to disagree about the risk to the cluster. Power for the turn signals and hazard lights are provided by and protected by 2 different fuses. The fuses are where they should be between the positive source and the first device in the circuit (cluster).
    You're right. What I meant is there is no fuse between the cluster and turn signals. I have no idea how detrimental to the cluster a short to ground, or a hot wire back feeding into the turn signal lead, might be. I sure wouldn't want to depend on the fuse ahead of the cluster to provide protection in that case. It's quite possible the cluster electronics are made rugged enough to tolerate such a fault, but we don't know. Hence my strong recommendation an isolator be used.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis handlebars, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, Lamont's NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, trailer wiring module and harness, high mount brake light and turn signals, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  11. #11
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Mitchell, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    4,132

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    You're right. What I meant is there is no fuse between the cluster and turn signals. I have no idea how detrimental to the cluster a short to ground, or a hot wire back feeding into the turn signal lead, might be. I sure wouldn't want to depend on the fuse ahead of the cluster to provide protection in that case. It's quite possible the cluster electronics are made rugged enough to tolerate such a fault, but we don't know. Hence my strong recommendation an isolator be used.
    The turn signal circuit is protected by a 15 amp fuse and the hazard lights are protected by a 10 amp fuse. At least 2013 models are. I would be very surprised the cluster cannot take a momentary load exceeding that.

    2013 ST LIMITED BLACK CURRANT
    Lugg & Roll trailer
    Show Chrome Hitch.
    Gorilla Alarm
    Sena SM10 Bluetooth Dongle, with homemade harness
    USB power outlet.
    3 button garage door opener.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    3,578

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    The turn signal circuit is protected by a 15 amp fuse and the hazard lights are protected by a 10 amp fuse. At least 2013 models are. I would be very surprised the cluster cannot take a momentary load exceeding that.
    ST must be different from the RT. I sure don't see any kind of fuse between the cluster and turn signal lamps on the 2013 RT wiring diagram. Only thing between the cluster and turn signal lamps are wires and connectors.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis handlebars, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, Lamont's NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, trailer wiring module and harness, high mount brake light and turn signals, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  13. #13
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Mitchell, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    4,132

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    ST must be different from the RT. I sure don't see any kind of fuse between the cluster and turn signal lamps on the 2013 RT wiring diagram. Only thing between the cluster and turn signal lamps are wires and connectors.
    .

    Of course there is no fuse between the cluster and the lights. That would be the wrong place for the fuse. That would leave the cluster unprotected in case of short between it and the fuse. The fuse is where it should be on a negative ground system. Between the positive source and the cluster. As mentioned a couple posts above. In case of the 2013 RT and ST that is the 15 amp fuse F1 in the Left Fuse Box. I also took another look at the hazard lights. The switch is on another fuse but that is signal voltage for the cluster and not power for the lights.

    2013 ST LIMITED BLACK CURRANT
    Lugg & Roll trailer
    Show Chrome Hitch.
    Gorilla Alarm
    Sena SM10 Bluetooth Dongle, with homemade harness
    USB power outlet.
    3 button garage door opener.

  14. #14
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Kansas City North, MO
    Posts
    61

    Default Hitch & harness

    We have the same bike you have (2015 RT-S) and an Aluma trailer (2010 year), I installed these with the greatest of ease, and works perfectly !

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  15. #15
    Very Active Member Ex-Rocket's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Marion, Arkansas
    Posts
    869

    Default

    ok, finally took possession of the Aluma trailer and took a few pictures of the power connector that is on the trailer. Do they make a pigtail or convertor to go from the trailer connector to the trailer hitch connector? I haven't purchased the Trailer hitch as yet and trying to figure what trailer hitch to go with, either the Show Chrome or the BRP OEM trailer hitch. Those that have the Show Chrome or BRP, please chime in. Is one better made than the other? Here are the pictures of the power connector on the trailer.
    IMG_0969.jpgIMG_0967.jpgIMG_0968.jpgIMG_0966.jpg
    2015 RTS SE6 Purchased March 2015

  16. #16
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    3,578

    Default

    The trailer has amber turn signal lights, right?

    Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis handlebars, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, Lamont's NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, trailer wiring module and harness, high mount brake light and turn signals, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  17. #17
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Mitchell, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    4,132

    Default

    Well that does not look like a 4 prong plug to me. So same question as IdahoMtnSpyder. Does the trailer have working amber turn signal lights?

    2013 ST LIMITED BLACK CURRANT
    Lugg & Roll trailer
    Show Chrome Hitch.
    Gorilla Alarm
    Sena SM10 Bluetooth Dongle, with homemade harness
    USB power outlet.
    3 button garage door opener.

  18. #18
    Very Active Member Ex-Rocket's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Marion, Arkansas
    Posts
    869

    Default

    I was only going by what the seller of the trailer was telling me. Sorry the plug is a 5 prong female connector. The trailer does not have amber turn signal lights. The trailer has 2 rear facing brake lights and some running light on top of the fenders. So in reality, one for ground, one for running lights, one for brake lights and one for turn signals?? Am I correct in stating that? But how is one to determine what wire is for each.
    2015 RTS SE6 Purchased March 2015

  19. #19
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    3,578

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ex-Rocket View Post
    I was only going by what the seller of the trailer was telling me. Sorry the plug is a 5 prong female connector. The trailer does not have amber turn signal lights. The trailer has 2 rear facing brake lights and some running light on top of the fenders. So in reality, one for ground, one for running lights, one for brake lights and one for turn signals?? Am I correct in stating that? But how is one to determine what wire is for each.
    Almost. One would be ground, one is tail/running lights, one is left brake/turn light, and fourth is right brake/turn light. Your best bet is to cut off the current connector and splice on a 4 wire connector that matches the wiring on the hitch you buy. Didn't we discuss this in an earlier post? I'll have to look.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis handlebars, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, Lamont's NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, trailer wiring module and harness, high mount brake light and turn signals, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  20. #20
    Very Active Member Ex-Rocket's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Marion, Arkansas
    Posts
    869

    Default

    Update. I went ahead and purchased the BRP trailer hitch and module. I just thought that the BRP just looked to be better made. I had the trailer hitch installed today and the power connector is a square 4 pin connector. Does anybody know what the pin outs on the Trailer hitch are? There is one male pin connector and the other 3 are female.

    But here is the hard part. There is 5 wires coming out from the Aluma trailer. I got an extra wire I guess. The color of the wires coming out of the trailer wiring are, RED, YELLOW, WHITE, GREEN & BROWN. How is the best way to figure what color wire is doing what? The trailer has a 5 pin round connector now but I'd figure I'll just cut that off and buy a 4 pin connector that will match up with the trailer hitch connector and solder or splice the wires. Where can I buy the 4 pin square connector at any auto parts store?
    2015 RTS SE6 Purchased March 2015

  21. #21
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Mitchell, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    4,132

    Default

    Here is a source for the square 4 connector. https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-11147975-Pole-Square-Set/dp/B004BE60ZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484777405&sr=8-1&keywords=hopkins+4+pole+square+connector

    White wire should be ground.
    Brown wire should be tail/running lights
    Green wire should be right turn/brake
    Yellow wire should be left turn/brake

    The red wire should not be used.

    2013 ST LIMITED BLACK CURRANT
    Lugg & Roll trailer
    Show Chrome Hitch.
    Gorilla Alarm
    Sena SM10 Bluetooth Dongle, with homemade harness
    USB power outlet.
    3 button garage door opener.

  22. #22
    Active Member JayD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Cumming, Ga
    Posts
    154

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ex-Rocket View Post
    I just purchased a used trailer and now I have to findtrailer hitch & module. The trailer which is an Aluma Motorcycle trailer, 2004 year model and has a 4 prong plug, I believe he said. I don't have the trailer in my procession as yet or I would try to describe it. Which is best, BRP, Show Chrome, etc? I read several posts that the BRP module got fried for whatever reason, specifically not properly grounded. Are there other modules out there that are better and less likely to get fried? All suggestions welcome. Let the suggestions begin. Thanks to all

    I have same trailer. Go with BRP hitch and Show Chrome wiring harness. You can easily install wiring harness. The BRP harness doesn't like trailers other than theirs. Show Chrome wires direct to battery so you aren't messing with nanny.
    2014 Spyder RTS

    Tri Axis Handlebars
    Big Bike Trailer Harness
    Rivco Front Bumper (Black)
    Rivco Highway Pegs
    Corbin Seat
    Garmin GPS
    Trailer Hitch
    Aluma XL Trailer
    Stainless Grill Covers
    Cupholder
    Spring Stiffeners

  23. #23
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    3,578

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JayD View Post
    I have same trailer. Go with BRP hitch and Show Chrome wiring harness. You can easily install wiring harness. The BRP harness doesn't like trailers other than theirs. Show Chrome wires direct to battery so you aren't messing with nanny.
    BRP harness has nothing to do with nanny. In fact, it draws power for the trailer lights direct from the battery just like the Show Chrome one does. The difference is the wire from the battery is already in the connector for the trailer adapter and is fed by a 10 amp fuse in the fuse box.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis handlebars, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, Lamont's NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, trailer wiring module and harness, high mount brake light and turn signals, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  24. #24
    Very Active Member Ex-Rocket's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Marion, Arkansas
    Posts
    869

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    Here is a source for the square 4 connector. https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-11147975-Pole-Square-Set/dp/B004BE60ZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484777405&sr=8-1&keywords=hopkins+4+pole+square+connector

    White wire should be ground.
    Brown wire should be tail/running lights
    Green wire should be right turn/brake
    Yellow wire should be left turn/brake

    The red wire should not be used.
    Thanks Billy
    2015 RTS SE6 Purchased March 2015

  25. #25
    Very Active Member Ex-Rocket's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Marion, Arkansas
    Posts
    869

    Default

    Does anybody know what pins are what , on the square 4 pole connector of the trailer hitch? One is a male and the other 3 are female.
    2015 RTS SE6 Purchased March 2015

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •