My seat's stuck - new twist

[OverHillAndDale]

Since it's too cold to clean my garage today I decided to install my Doc Humphrey's adapter and belt tensioner. Step 1 - raise your seat.

Well, the key wouldn't START to budge to release the seat. I twisted as hard as I dared while pushing the seat to the left, right, forward, back, lifting, pressing down etc. No good.

I read all the forum entries on releasing a stuck seat, and eventually managed to get where I could see the cable and latch. Still no good - pressing with a screwdriver with all the might I dared use the latch wouldn't budge. I even managed to get the screwdriver on the latch itself (not on the cable) and still it wouldn't start to budge.

I lifted the front of the seat with ratchet straps as far as I could and I can see the bold that holds the seat to the latch, but with only 3/4 of and inch or so working space I can't figure out a way to cut the bolt. I used the straps to put more pressure on the latch/bolt hoping something would break free but I stopped after a point because I didn't want to damage the seat. I bent a coat hanger tip into a hook and got it around the bolt, but .. couldn't figure out what was next. Jiggling the bolt with the coat hanger did nothing.

Any brilliant ideas? Any kind of a tool that can cut steel in a tiny place? (my working space is 3/4 wide, about 6 inches inside between the bike and seat). A dremmel won't fit in that space, and the bit would come in at the wrong angle.

[beefybudds]

What about a sawzall with a steel cutting blade?
Or just buy the blade and use a visegrip on the end and cut by hand.

[OverHillAndDale]

What about a sawzall with a steel cutting blade?
Or just buy the blade and use a visegrip on the end and cut by hand.

Well, great minds must think alike because I just tried that, then came in a saw your suggestion. And, it worked.

I wrapped the sawsall in a rag so I wouldn't damage the paint, but I still have one spot that will need touching up. I got the blade in and managed to saw the bolt in half. The cable is still locked, but the latch mechanism moves easily, so I don't know why I couldn't get that to work earlier.

I'm hoping the cable is a warranty repair. I'm going to have to decide whether to do without the security of the seat bolt, or buy a new one and hope I don't face this again.

[Mazo EMS2]

Rather than ever deal with that again, why not just remove the two bolts that hold the latch mechanism in place, and just tuck the latch underneath? That's what I did. No more turning the key to open the seat. All the parts are still there and functional, should I ever want to re-install it. Only takes a minute

[Chupaca]

Never seen anyone go that far...Many have added a secondary manual cable hidden under the panels and others, as already mentioned , just pull the pin and don't worry about it. Glad you got it done with minimal damage...

[OverHillAndDale]

I'm in luck, my bykes under my extended warranty until August of this year, so the frozen cable SHOULD be covered by warranty. Of course that means I've got to find the time to get the byke to the shop.

I'm a bit concerned that since I have an Ultimate seat instead of stock that they will blame the seat on the stuck cable, but I'll face that fight if/when it becomes necessary.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I'm in luck, my bykes under my extended warranty until August of this year, so the frozen cable SHOULD be covered by warranty. Of course that means I've got to find the time to get the byke to the shop.

I'm a bit concerned that since I have an Ultimate seat instead of stock that they will blame the seat on the stuck cable, but I'll face that fight if/when it becomes necessary.

From what you have said on this, it sounds like the cable has come off the ignition switch ( not un-common )...This would have nothing to do with the " Ultimate seat "...... After they fix this , I think you should re-place the bolt because it prevents the entire seat from sliding forward and contacting the Glove box ..... The seat and Staples will scratch the paint....... I wired my seat latch 97% open, so it will just catch .... but not lock....I can still pull my seat open without difficulty...... You may want to re-move the GAS shock from the seat and replace it with a solid rod that you put up manually when you raise the seat ..... Mike

[OverHillAndDale]

I ordered a new bolt already since I had to cut the previous bolt in half!


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[finless]

Remove the passenger backrest and unbolt the seat at the hinge.
Now you should be able to move the seat all around and better get to the seat pin.

Bob

[Spyderideron]

I have this fear every time I am on a trip, pull up to the gas pump, and turn the key. It appears my fear is not unfounded.

[JayD]

I had the same problem after I switched to a Corbin seat. I justed removed the bolt when I finally got the latch to release. There is really nothing under the seat that anybody would want.

[Jetfixer]

From what you have said on this, it sounds like the cable has come off the ignition switch ( not un-common )...This would have nothing to do with the " Ultimate seat "...... After they fix this , I think you should re-place the bolt because it prevents the entire seat from sliding forward and contacting the Glove box ..... The seat and Staples will scratch the paint....... I wired my seat latch 97% open, so it will just catch .... but not lock....I can still pull my seat open without difficulty...... You may want to re-move the GAS shock from the seat and replace it with a solid rod that you put up manually when you raise the seat ..... Mike

Keep in mind that you can also grind off the barbed end of the bolt so that it still functions to keep the seat from moving forward, but cannot lock.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Keep in mind that you can also grind off the barbed end of the bolt so that it still functions to keep the seat from moving forward, but cannot lock.

Yes you can .....but if you sell your Spyder the buyer might not be happy ..... By wiring the Latch open you can un-wire it easily for free .......... Mike

[PMK]

Keep in mind that you can also grind off the barbed end of the bolt so that it still functions to keep the seat from moving forward, but cannot lock.

Since we ride on a Corbin, and the latch pin is removed, this is a great idea. Not sure if needed for us, but I will get a hex bolt and modify as needed.

[Jetfixer]

Yes you can .....but if you sell your Spyder the buyer might not be happy ..... By wiring the Latch open you can un-wire it easily for free .......... Mike

Wait a minute. People actually sell these things? I thought they were like Golden Retrievers at a shelter. You adopt them for life.

[JayD]

Buyer might not be happy if he can't open his seat .

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[OverHillAndDale]

A corroded cable isn't covered under warranty (so much for the BEST extended warranty). Bike is garage kept and other than washing and the occasional ryde in the rain my bike has had limited exposure to water. Latch is bent but that's being blamed on the Ultimate seat.

So I'm trying to decide if I want to just leave the seat unlatched like so many of you already are and if I should just buy parts and do this myself.

In the meantime, 3 new brake pads (at 15k miles?)

So, $2k for extended warranty and extended service, and I'm still out as much as $800.

[finless]

Replacing the cable is not easy. The entire top fairing has to come off to get to the key switch and hook up the new cable.

Watch my video on installing the tri-axis handlebars as this will be about what you have to do.

Bob

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

A corroded cable isn't covered under warranty (so much for the BEST extended warranty). Bike is garage kept and other than washing and the occasional ryde in the rain my bike has had limited exposure to water. Latch is bent but that's being blamed on the Ultimate seat.

So I'm trying to decide if I want to just leave the seat unlatched like so many of you already are and if I should just buy parts and do this myself.

In the meantime, 3 new brake pads (at 15k miles?)

So, $2k for extended warranty and extended service, and I'm still out as much as $800.

.I made a separate cable that attached to the OEM seat Latch and ran forward alongside / under the panel and exited into the area under the right front headlight and was accessible after you opened the FRUNK. It was hidden and secure. I also did a similar cable that worked for folks that had a GAS DOOR. If interested in more details ... PM me ....... PS, DO NOT remove the post ... it prevents the seat from sliding forward ( and it will ) and then scratch the glove box paint ....... Mike

[trikerbiker645]

Easier yet just tie strap the latch back in the open position, so all you do is get off and open it up. Dont have to turn the switch ever again to open the seat......AND no I'm not afraid of anyone pissing with my gas cap or fuel. safe riding

[JonYiong]

I made a separate cable that attached to the OEM seat Latch and ran forward alongside / under the panel and exited into the area under the right front headlight and was accessible after you opened the FRUNK. It was hidden and secure. I also did a similar cable that worked for folks that had a GAS DOOR. If interested in more details ... PM me ....... PS, DO NOT remove the post ... it prevents the seat from sliding forward ( and it will ) and then scratch the glove box paint ....... Mike

Hi Mike, can you show me the way you done it. I like your idea.
Thanks in advance...Cheers

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I made a separate cable that attached to the OEM seat Latch and ran forward alongside / under the panel and exited into the area under the right front headlight and was accessible after you opened the FRUNK. It was hidden and secure. I also did a similar cable that worked for folks that had a GAS DOOR. If interested in more details ... PM me ....... PS, DO NOT remove the post ... it prevents the seat from sliding forward ( and it will ) and then scratch the glove box paint ....... Mike

Hi Mike, can you show me the way you done it. I like your idea.
Thanks in advance...Cheers

.......... Jon you are fortunate I happen to re-visit this thread .... The Spyder I did this on was an RT .... so I will have to look at the RS/ST to see if it's similar ...... if so I'll get back to you ...... Mike

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Since Jon asked - and He doesn't have an RT .... this is still doable , start by removing the latch assembly by in-bolting (10mm) it ( so you can work on it ). The re-lease cable can be routed two ways - either around the right side of the AIR BOX or ( I like this ) under the AIR BOX ....they both exit by the radiator bottle ..... you can leave the pull piece under the black plastic cover or not ...whatever you want .........Home Depot sells thin wire cable 1/16 get 3 ft.... if you go under the Air Box don't get the plastic covered type it will melt....... I used a steel rivet as a Ferrule ( take out the Mandrel ) which you crimp unto one end ...... Where the OEM cable attaches to the Latch , you will attach your cable there also ( the ferrule should be on backwards - you crimp onto the wire not the ferrule ) ..... fishing this cable is going to be difficult if you go under the Air Box, - Use a 3 ft piece of 12ga elec wire ( it's easy to bend but stiff enough to maneuver ). use this temp wire to pull through a string and use that to pull through your NEW cable ..... attach something to the end so you can grab it and pull it ..... Wa-La ............ Mike

[JonYiong]

Hi Mike, thank you for your quick response.
Would you able to provide pictures or videos on how to do it...Cheers

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hi Mike, thank you for your quick response.
Would you able to provide pictures or videos on how to do it...Cheers

Well I have an RT ..... I never did an ST or RS and they aren't the same ...... that's why I got so wordy in my explanation ...... I forgot to mention the right side panel below the top panel will have to come off so you can see what's down there and have bright flashlites