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Very Active Member
BATTERY LIFE
What have folks been getting in terms of battery life? My 2013 RTL still has the original battery and it shows no sign of dying anytime soon. The gets ridden 6 - 7 months out of the year, roughly 6,500 miles per season. The rest of the time it is hooked up to a battery tender. My voltmeter shows 12.2 volts with the engine off, and 14.5 at idle. So I'm thinking that I'm OK for at least another season, maybe two.
"A Wise Man Once Said, I Should Ask My Wife."
2017 Champagne Metallic RT-S SE-6 Rivco Dual Flag Holders; Slingmods Highway Pegs; (Hate Them) Airhawk Seat Cushion; Show Chrome Black Touring Rack w/ Risers & Touring Windshield; RAM X Mount For TXTAG; TackForm Phone Mount; Lidlox; Magic Mirror Mounts; Guardian Bells; WOLO "Bad Boy" Air Horn; Dual USB Power Outlet With Voltmeter; 12V outlet for misc. stuff; Spyderpops Full View Mirror Turn Signals; Large Brake Pedal; Kott Grilles; Large Mud Flap; BajaRon 3 Piece Sway Bar, Last But Not Least, Kuhmo Rear Rire, Vedrestien Fronts.
2017 RT-S , Brake pedal extender is twice the size of the stock pedal. Champagne Metallic
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Very Active Member
I got 2 years out of the RT's. We rode about 34K in that 2 years. Sounds like you got a Wednesday battery.
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I'm usually pretty happy if I get four full riding Seasons. If it lasts that long: I replace it more for peace of mind; than anything else...
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Very Active Member
I'm thinking 3 years is pretty decent , which is where I am now. If it starts okay in spring
after being winterized, I will leave it in for this years ryding season. I agree with Mr. D, better to do it a
month early than be stuck in some parking lot at dusk with a dead one.
Flatlander, Navy Veteran, Widower
Loved my 2014 RTS SE6 Pearl white
but have a new love now,
my 2017 RTS SE6 Champagne metallic (Champ)
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battery
I am new to spyders but had bikes for years . Usually use the tenders. Have gotten 7 plus on some and only 3 on others. Last year kept one bike on tender all the time. Took a late winter ride. Everything fine. Back on tender. Come spring dead as can be. Your stats sound good but in my experience when they die they go rather quick. You might well get another year or more from this one. From others posts that doesn't seem to be the norm.
I did learn that even the smart tenders will not be able to bring back up a battery if they drop much below 12V. Sorry can't remember the exact number now.
Just my experience your results may vary.
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Battery Life
Missed four years by 30 days, about normal battery life for my bikes. Four years without problems, may have been able to pull a few more months but it is not worth it to me to run that close to batttery failure.
Good Luck
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Think Preventive Maintenance
Originally Posted by oldguyinCT
What have folks been getting in terms of battery life? My 2013 RTL still has the original battery and it shows no sign of dying anytime soon. The gets ridden 6 - 7 months out of the year, roughly 6,500 miles per season. The rest of the time it is hooked up to a battery tender. My voltmeter shows 12.2 volts with the engine off, and 14.5 at idle. So I'm thinking that I'm OK for at least another season, maybe two.
I deal with 12 Volt DC gel cell batteries in the course of normal business and anything that low is living on borrowed time. The only reason that you haven't been stranded is that the tender is peaking out the battery each time before you ride. For your own safety and well being, replace the battery now.
Is it really worth the risk of being stranded?
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Very Active Member
Depends....
I have a 2012 RS which I ryde all year . The kids have killed the battery a couple of times but it has always come back to life. This will be the 5th year and I have seen up to seven that I know of. I also have bare bones electric acc to drag it down....Your good to go another season...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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What I found out on my last bike is that Batteries are much cheaper than alternators. If your battery works, but is going bad, the alternator burns out. You usually find this out hundreds of miles at home and approaching dusk....
Be smart, replace a battery before it dies on the road. I replace mine 4 years at the max
Last edited by PapaHotel; 01-04-2017 at 10:24 PM.
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Very Active Member
Thanks to all for some good advice. I'm thinking a new battery will be my first spring project.
"A Wise Man Once Said, I Should Ask My Wife."
2017 Champagne Metallic RT-S SE-6 Rivco Dual Flag Holders; Slingmods Highway Pegs; (Hate Them) Airhawk Seat Cushion; Show Chrome Black Touring Rack w/ Risers & Touring Windshield; RAM X Mount For TXTAG; TackForm Phone Mount; Lidlox; Magic Mirror Mounts; Guardian Bells; WOLO "Bad Boy" Air Horn; Dual USB Power Outlet With Voltmeter; 12V outlet for misc. stuff; Spyderpops Full View Mirror Turn Signals; Large Brake Pedal; Kott Grilles; Large Mud Flap; BajaRon 3 Piece Sway Bar, Last But Not Least, Kuhmo Rear Rire, Vedrestien Fronts.
2017 RT-S , Brake pedal extender is twice the size of the stock pedal. Champagne Metallic
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Active Member
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Active Member
I have a 2012 RT Limited I bought new in Jan., 2012. I got a full 5 years out of my battery, with 47,000 miles on it. Not bad! I ride year around, and keep a Battery Tender on it only in the Winter cold weather. The battery wend dad and would not take a charge. I had to get AAA to trailer it to a Dealer. [QUOTE=cmungen;1215022]
Originally Posted by oldguyinCT
What have folks been getting in terms of battery life? My 2013 RTL still has the original battery and it shows no sign of dying anytime soon. The gets ridden 6 - 7 months out of the year, roughly 6,500 miles per season. The rest of the time it is hooked up to a battery tender. My voltmeter shows 12.2 volts with the engine off, and 14.5 at idle. So I'm thinking that I'm OK for at least another season, maybe two. [/QUOT Change every 3 years to be statistically safe. They die fast and in all the wrong places.
good luck
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i carry one of those small (the size of a small paperback) Lithium battery packs which are supposed to be able to start your car battery if stuck in a jam.
It is too weak to start my truck (which has TWO on board batteries to start the diesel engine) but just enough to start my bike. I think I paid about $50 for mine. That way if my battery dies when I am at my most vulnerable in the dark on some lonely highway I just hook her up. Start and go directly to my home where I have spare batteries for my bikes.
What I have done, which is invaluable, is connect a couple of leads to my battery and just let them dangle in the frunk (taped off of course). I can get to the leads MUCH easier than the top of the battery in my 2014 RT. These leads work for connecting my charger or even connecting a boost as I used 10 gauge wire ...
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