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Thread: New Hitch

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  1. #1
    2010 RTS-SE, Orbital Blue
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    If you plan on manufacturing and distributing your hitch, it might not hurt to see if you can talk to someone at Bushtec orCorbin. Back in the day, they both manufactured frame type hitches for the GS.

  2. #2
    Blazing Member fastfraser's Avatar
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    Google how to install A CB on a Spyder you will find a couple of videos that show you how to remove the rear . 4 bolts under the seat and one bolt on each side unplug three or four plugs and it comes off as one unit .
    Happy Owner






  3. #3
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    Default Here's the thing....

    As I always recommend...if your going to go into these machines you need a good shop manual . It will show you all you need to know and make it easier to see things before hand. Would be nice to see one...have often watched how that swingarm ball bounces around when following along...
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    As I always recommend...if your going to go into these machines you need a good shop manual . It will show you all you need to know and make it easier to see things before hand. Would be nice to see one...have often watched how that swingarm ball bounces around when following along...
    Good advice. I'm going to download the manual before I get started this morning. The trailer take a hell of a beating with the existing hitch. I had to make some emergency repairs on the road last season.

  5. #5
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    With the manual it's quite easy to get the back plastic off as it's all one piece. After removing all the side panels six bolts and a few wire connections and it lifts right off. The other good news is that there are a couple unused threaded holes at the back of the frame that make a good attachment point for the upper mounts for the hitch. If I knew where they were in advance the rear assy. would not have to come off. Time to fab up an upper mount and put the rear back together so I can see how much room I have for the rest of it.

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    The best of luck to you!
    We're waiting to hear what happens next...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by fjray View Post
    With the manual it's quite easy to get the back plastic off as it's all one piece. After removing all the side panels six bolts and a few wire connections and it lifts right off. The other good news is that there are a couple unused threaded holes at the back of the frame that make a good attachment point for the upper mounts for the hitch. If I knew where they were in advance the rear assy. would not have to come off. Time to fab up an upper mount and put the rear back together so I can see how much room I have for the rest of it.
    As someone that has a little experience in fabricating, not sure if you have figured on the swing arm travel. It is pretty substantial in relationship to the frame (about 5-7 inches). That is one of the reasons most manufacturers use the swing arm to attach to. Not sure if there are enough hardened points under the tupperware to hold that the way you want it to.

    The tongue on the trailer is going to move up and down with the suspension. Not sure how well that will tow, but cagers do that all the time. You may be on to something there. Will be interesting to see how it turns out/how well it works.

    Best of luck!!

  8. #8
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    The Spyder is the only one that uses the swing arm. The rest use a frame mount like any car or truck. That way the trailer tongue is isolated from road shock and it takes the added unsprung weight off the shock.

    As far as the suspension travel I plan on keeping it wide enough to clear the swing arm. Still a fair bit of backyard engineering to do but finding a good hard point for the vertical mount was a key to success. Waiting for paint to dry while I go plow more snow.
    Last edited by fjray; 01-01-2017 at 03:52 PM.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default FRAME HITCH ... VS. SWING ARM HITCH

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys View Post
    As someone that has a little experience in fabricating, not sure if you have figured on the swing arm travel. It is pretty substantial in relationship to the frame (about 5-7 inches). That is one of the reasons most manufacturers use the swing arm to attach to. Not sure if there are enough hardened points under the tupperware to hold that the way you want it to.

    The tongue on the trailer is going to move up and down with the suspension. Not sure how well that will tow, but cagers do that all the time. You may be on to something there. Will be interesting to see how it turns out/how well it works.

    Best of luck!!
    ..... I loooooove DIY'ers ..... and not to throw water on this ..... But you do realize that any EXCESSIVE movement of the trailer tongue ( up & down ) means the rear wheel must be LEAVING THE GROUND in order for this to occur. Because the rear wheel is attached to the swing arm !!!!! ..... and when you think about it the rear of the Spyder is what goes up and down on the rear suspension. The Spyder is not a Moto-cross bike ...... if you are riding around with the rear tire bouncing on the pavement .... imho something is wrong .....Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 01-01-2017 at 05:42 PM.

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