New Integrated Hub Wheel Removal Guidelines

[Peteoz]

Hi Guys and Gals,

Following my successful rear tyre replacement, I was thinking of posting the following detailed guidelines for wheel removal and replacement for dummies, incorporating all I learnt while performing the task. I would be interested to know if you believe this is a good or a bad idea, and if good, are their any major omissions/ errors that stand out? It still needs fine tuning, of course.....

2016 F3 Limited - REAR WHEEL REMOVE & REPLACE FOR DUMMIES


PLEASE NOTE ......THIS R&R PROCESS IS FOR THE F3 WITH THE NEW REAR WHEEL WITH INTEGRATED HUB, IN CONJUNCTION WITH THE YOUTUBE VIDEOS BY FINLESS AND LAMONSTER (both of which are for the old style wheel with removable hub)


Obviously, while I believe these guidelines are relatively complete, I can accept no responsibility for their detailed accuracy. They are intended as a guideline only. Created December 2016......


Some pre commencement observations -
Can Am must use Brian Shaw (aka the World's Strongest Man), to tighten their axle and brake caliper nuts while using judicious amounts of yellow locktite. They are on there very tightly (160ft/lbs +/- 10lbs for the axle). I (and others) have found that a reasonable amount of blue locktite will work just as well when reassembling.
Ensure you have a breaker bar of some kind to release the axle nuts. It is near impossible to break the nuts without one.
You will need 2x36mm spanners for the axle. I used a 36mm spanner and a 36mm 3/4" socket head with a loooong 3/4" breaker bar.
Ensure you have a torque wrench that will get you to at least 150ft/lbs.,


WHEEL REMOVAL -


1. Place F3 in neutral, park brake on.
2. Remove the axle covers, cotter pin and break the axle nut (bloody tight). You will need a 36mm spanner and a 36mm socket with breaker bar or looooong handle for leverage.
3. Remove the rear suspension nut from the shock.
4. Lift Spyder up/down minutely using your preferred lift equipment until there is no pressure on the rear shock and the bolt will slide out fairly easily with just finger pressure (this allows the swing arm to drop when you jack the Spyder up, which allows you access to the top brake caliper bolt as well as making belt removal and reinstallation easier as there should be no need to realign your belt)
5. Lift Spyder further until the rear wheel is barely off the ground and support the rear wheel (just for stability....I slid the edge of a wheel ramp under there.) This will expose the upper brake caliper nut.
6. Break the brake caliper nuts (bloody tight). You will need a socket and extender.
7. Remove the sensor next to the caliper(remember where each shim goes - I had 4, all between the sensor and the caliper mount plate)
8. Turn the Ignition on, turn the park brake off, then ignition off. Cover your ears while it beeps at you for 20 seconds.
9. Avoid touching the brake pedal while the caliper is off as you could create nanny messages when you start the Spyder......which can be fairly easily rectified....... but.....)
10. Take lots of photographs of the pieces of equipment you are about to remove to ensure you can put every shim/washer/piece back in the correct place.
11. Tape up the axle adjusters thoroughly with duct tape on both sides of the swing arm ( around an 8" piece, along the top of the arm, over the back and underneath the arm) so the components don't fall out and to keep the halves and bolt in place to save having to recalibrate after wheel reinstall.....or worse, have the pieces fall into the swing arm.
12. Gradually slide the belt off the rear sprocket. (mine came off easily)
13. Put a cloth inside the wheel to avoid damaging it when the caliper comes off. (Just in case)
14. Remove the brake caliper bolts and the slide the caliper off the disc (tight fit) and bungy to the frame or exhaust to keep the load off it.
15. Remove the rear wheel support and lower the Spyder until the wheel touches the ground.
16. Undo the axle nut completely.
17. Lift Spyder slightly until there is minimal pressure on the wheel/tyre. The axle should just slide out from the left using hand pressure if you have the wheel at the right height.
18. Lift Spyder to maximum and roll the wheel out. You may have to tip the Spyder forward to do this. Be verrrrry careful not to overbalance the Spyder (I nearly did)
19. Remove the metal bushings from each side of the wheel.
20. Remove the disc from the wheel. Bolts are, again, very tight and you need a socket to do this as a spanner will not fit in the recess. Undo the opposing bolts (I.e. Don't just undo in a circle)
21. Turn the wheel over and lay flat (the wheel, not you!) with the sprocket facing you. Pull upwards while wiggling and the sprocket will lift out. Mark the sprocket to wheel position to ensure you don't hide the tyre valve behind a sprocket cross piece when reassembling. Remove the 5 rubber dampers. Check your "O" ring for damage (mine was missing a couple of chunks for some unknown reason.) You will need to go to a bearing shop for replacement as moto shops don't keep "O" rings that size)
22. Take the wheel as is to your tyre guy. Watch the tyre guys expression as he comes face to face with the Spyder wheel with integrated hub for the first time. There will be either a look of consternation, or a look of challenge. They will most likely not be able to balance the tyre as there is a concern that the conical fastener on their balancer may damage the beating in the hub. You could have it static balanced at a bike shop....... or align the tyre dot to the valve (the tyre guys should do this automatically) and remove any existing weights. This has worked for a few on rear tyres. If this doesn't work, some have installed Dyna Beads. Ride-on also works for some, but is disliked by many tyre shops as it is messy when replacing the tyre. The choice is yours, but no responsibility is accepted for your choice.


WHEEL REINSTALL -


1. Reinstall the rubber dampers and gently wiggle sprocket back on to wheel as per line up marks, along with greased "O" ring. Make sure it is fully seated.
2. Reinstall the disc (blue locktite) on the wheel. (Ensure you tighten opposing bolts as you go). Use your torque wrench.
3. Reinstall the bushings into the wheel each side.
4. Lift Spyder and slide the wheel back in.
5. Lower Spyder until the wheel axle hole aligns with swing arm holes.
6. Ensure the disc caliper backing plate is in position for the axle to slide through (to save having to remove the wheel after you have installed it because you find a metal backing plate lying on the ground.....don't ask me how I know ����). Hang the plate from the stud on the swing arm while you slide the axle through the wheel, then you can raise the plate to slip the axle through the plate hole.
7. Slide the axle through the swing arm, wheel caliper backing plate and opposing swing arm. (It should slide fairly easily if you have the lift correct).
8. Wedge the wheel as far forward as possible while tightening the axle to ensure you keep your belt tension.
9. Reinstall the axle nuts and tighten to 160 foot/lbs. (you can get away with 150lbs according to the workshop manual).
10. Reinstall the cotter pin and axle covers.
11. Lift the Spyder until the wheel is off the ground to allow access to the upper brake caliper bolt holes.
12. Reinstall the brake caliper over disc (tight fit, make sure the pads are separated in the caliper) and hand tighten the caliper bolts (use loctite).
13. Reinstall the sensor, ensuring shims are in the correct spot, (use loctite.)
14. Slide the belt back on (it helps to rotate the wheel)
15. Lower the Spyder to stability (meaning the wheel is just touching the ground).
16. Remove the axle adjuster tape.
17. Torque the brake caliper bolts.
18. Lower/Lift Spyder until the shock bolt holes align..
19. Insert bolt and tighten nut (use loctite).
20. Press hard on the brake pedal to reset pads and ABS.
21. Lift the Spyder rear wheel off the ground. Release the park brake, select first gear and check belt for movement while the tyre is rotating. Brake and try in reverse. The belt should not move from side to side. If it does, you need belt alignment adjustment. The belt should be 1mm to 5mm gap from the sprocket.
22. Lower the Spyder.
23. Check the tyre pressure.
24. Test ride......hopefully with no nanny messages.


Pete

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thanks Pete - and I am one of those Guys who has stopped balancing the rear wheel........ My last three rear tires were not balanced and I didn't have any issues with tire wear or bearings etc........ Mike

[Peteoz]

Hahaha....I am too, Mike.....although I noticed a bit of vibration once I got up to 70kph on the way back from having my new belt tensioner installed, my belt retensioned and aligned, and a ROLO wheel alignment. I'm wondering if it was simply the wind on the freeway once I got out of the city. It was pretty bloody strong, looking at the trees. The 3700rpm belt vibration was certainly gone though

[armyspydervet]

Thank you. Your instructions, while very detailed, is why people like me will pay people like you to do a task like this for me

[Pirate looks at --]

Hi Guys and Gals,

Following my successful rear tyre replacement, I was thinking of posting the following detailed guidelines for wheel removal and replacement for dummies, incorporating all I learnt while performing the task. I would be interested to know if you believe this is a good or a bad idea, and if good, are their any major omissions/ errors that stand out? It still needs fine tuning, of course.....

2016 F3 Limited - REAR WHEEL REMOVE & REPLACE FOR DUMMIES


PLEASE NOTE ......THIS R&R PROCESS IS FOR THE F3 WITH THE NEW REAR WHEEL WITH INTEGRATED HUB, IN CONJUNCTION WITH THE YOUTUBE VIDEOS BY FINLESS AND LAMONSTER (both of which are for the old style wheel with removable hub)


Obviously, while I believe these guidelines are relatively complete, I can accept no responsibility for their detailed accuracy. They are intended as a guideline only. Created December 2016......


Some pre commencement observations -
Can Am must use Brian Shaw (aka the World's Strongest Man), to tighten their axle and brake caliper nuts while using judicious amounts of yellow locktite. They are on there very tightly (160ft/lbs +/- 10lbs for the axle). I (and others) have found that a reasonable amount of blue locktite will work just as well when reassembling.
Ensure you have a breaker bar of some kind to release the axle nuts. It is near impossible to break the nuts without one.
You will need 2x36mm spanners for the axle. I used a 36mm spanner and a 36mm 3/4" socket head with a loooong 3/4" breaker bar.
Ensure you have a torque wrench that will get you to at least 150ft/lbs.,


WHEEL REMOVAL -


1. Place F3 in neutral, park brake on.
2. Remove the axle covers, cotter pin and break the axle nut (bloody tight). You will need a 36mm spanner and a 36mm socket with breaker bar or looooong handle for leverage.
3. Remove the rear suspension nut from the shock.
4. Lift Spyder up/down minutely using your preferred lift equipment until there is no pressure on the rear shock and the bolt will slide out fairly easily with just finger pressure (this allows the swing arm to drop when you jack the Spyder up, which allows you access to the top brake caliper bolt as well as making belt removal and reinstallation easier as there should be no need to realign your belt)
5. Lift Spyder further until the rear wheel is barely off the ground and support the rear wheel (just for stability....I slid the edge of a wheel ramp under there.) This will expose the upper brake caliper nut.
6. Break the brake caliper nuts (bloody tight). You will need a socket and extender.
7. Remove the sensor next to the caliper(remember where each shim goes - I had 4, all between the sensor and the caliper mount plate)
8. Turn the Ignition on, turn the park brake off, then ignition off. Cover your ears while it beeps at you for 20 seconds.
9. Avoid touching the brake pedal while the caliper is off as you could create nanny messages when you start the Spyder......which can be fairly easily rectified....... but.....)
10. Take lots of photographs of the pieces of equipment you are about to remove to ensure you can put every shim/washer/piece back in the correct place.
11. Tape up the axle adjusters thoroughly with duct tape on both sides of the swing arm ( around an 8" piece, along the top of the arm, over the back and underneath the arm) so the components don't fall out and to keep the halves and bolt in place to save having to recalibrate after wheel reinstall.....or worse, have the pieces fall into the swing arm.
12. Gradually slide the belt off the rear sprocket. (mine came off easily)
13. Put a cloth inside the wheel to avoid damaging it when the caliper comes off. (Just in case)
14. Remove the brake caliper bolts and the slide the caliper off the disc (tight fit) and bungy to the frame or exhaust to keep the load off it.
15. Remove the rear wheel support and lower the Spyder until the wheel touches the ground.
16. Undo the axle nut completely.
17. Lift Spyder slightly until there is minimal pressure on the wheel/tyre. The axle should just slide out from the left using hand pressure if you have the wheel at the right height.
18. Lift Spyder to maximum and roll the wheel out. You may have to tip the Spyder forward to do this. Be verrrrry careful not to overbalance the Spyder (I nearly did)
19. Remove the metal bushings from each side of the wheel.
20. Remove the disc from the wheel. Bolts are, again, very tight and you need a socket to do this as a spanner will not fit in the recess. Undo the opposing bolts (I.e. Don't just undo in a circle)
21. Turn the wheel over and lay flat (the wheel, not you!) with the sprocket facing you. Pull upwards while wiggling and the sprocket will lift out. Mark the sprocket to wheel position to ensure you don't hide the tyre valve behind a sprocket cross piece when reassembling. Remove the 5 rubber dampers. Check your "O" ring for damage (mine was missing a couple of chunks for some unknown reason.) You will need to go to a bearing shop for replacement as moto shops don't keep "O" rings that size)
22. Take the wheel as is to your tyre guy. Watch the tyre guys expression as he comes face to face with the Spyder wheel with integrated hub for the first time. There will be either a look of consternation, or a look of challenge. They will most likely not be able to balance the tyre as there is a concern that the conical fastener on their balancer may damage the beating in the hub. You could have it static balanced at a bike shop....... or align the tyre dot to the valve (the tyre guys should do this automatically) and remove any existing weights. This has worked for a few on rear tyres. If this doesn't work, some have installed Dyna Beads. Ride-on also works for some, but is disliked by many tyre shops as it is messy when replacing the tyre. The choice is yours, but no responsibility is accepted for your choice.


WHEEL REINSTALL -


1. Reinstall the rubber dampers and gently wiggle sprocket back on to wheel as per line up marks, along with greased "O" ring. Make sure it is fully seated.
2. Reinstall the disc (blue locktite) on the wheel. (Ensure you tighten opposing bolts as you go). Use your torque wrench.
3. Reinstall the bushings into the wheel each side.
4. Lift Spyder and slide the wheel back in.
5. Lower Spyder until the wheel axle hole aligns with swing arm holes.
6. Ensure the disc caliper backing plate is in position for the axle to slide through (to save having to remove the wheel after you have installed it because you find a metal backing plate lying on the ground.....don't ask me how I know ����). Hang the plate from the stud on the swing arm while you slide the axle through the wheel, then you can raise the plate to slip the axle through the plate hole.
7. Slide the axle through the swing arm, wheel caliper backing plate and opposing swing arm. (It should slide fairly easily if you have the lift correct).
8. Wedge the wheel as far forward as possible while tightening the axle to ensure you keep your belt tension.
9. Reinstall the axle nuts and tighten to 160 foot/lbs. (you can get away with 150lbs according to the workshop manual).
10. Reinstall the cotter pin and axle covers.
11. Lift the Spyder until the wheel is off the ground to allow access to the upper brake caliper bolt holes.
12. Reinstall the brake caliper over disc (tight fit, make sure the pads are separated in the caliper) and hand tighten the caliper bolts (use loctite).
13. Reinstall the sensor, ensuring shims are in the correct spot, (use loctite.)
14. Slide the belt back on (it helps to rotate the wheel)
15. Lower the Spyder to stability (meaning the wheel is just touching the ground).
16. Remove the axle adjuster tape.
17. Torque the brake caliper bolts.
18. Lower/Lift Spyder until the shock bolt holes align..
19. Insert bolt and tighten nut (use loctite).
20. Press hard on the brake pedal to reset pads and ABS.
21. Lift the Spyder rear wheel off the ground. Release the park brake, select first gear and check belt for movement while the tyre is rotating. Brake and try in reverse. The belt should not move from side to side. If it does, you need belt alignment adjustment. The belt should be 1mm to 5mm gap from the sprocket.
22. Lower the Spyder.
23. Check the tyre pressure.
24. Test ride......hopefully with no nanny messages.


Pete

You have way too much time on your hands! Merry Christmas! It must be nice celebrating Christmas in the Summer!

[billybovine]

Why did you remove the brake disk? I don't see the point.

My Spyder has the removable hub, but I do not remove it just to change a tire. That is just wasted time and effort. So not really any different.

[Peteoz]

Why did you remove the brake disk? I don't see the point.

My Spyder has the removable hub, but I do not remove it just to change a tire. That is just wasted time and effort. So not really any different.

Thanks Billy. Do you change your own tyres? If you do, I agree there is probably no need.

However, I took the disk off because I was taking the wheel to a tyre shop and didn't want the risk of it being damaged in some way, as well as figuring it might make it easier for them to balance. It is also the way that Finless Bob and others do it, and since it only adds around 10 minutes to the process, I figured it was better to be safe than sorry.

Pete

[Peteoz]

Thank you. Your instructions, while very detailed, is why people like me will pay people like you to do a task like this for me

Thanks Chris.....not as detailed or time consuming as it may appear.....just a few voice activated notes while performing the work and then transposed to text. A little text fine tuning at the end, and voila!

Pete

[Peteoz]

You have way too much time on your hands! Merry Christmas! It must be nice celebrating Christmas in the Summer!

Hours of sweat and toil, Pirate.....well, not really, just voice notes ....and yes, it's great to spend Christmas in the pool with a beer or two.....

[billybovine]

I take the rear wheel off myself and get the tire switched at a local car tire shop. Buy the tire from them sometimes. Depends on if they can get the tire I want to put on next. They cannot balance it but they put beads in the last time for me. The first time I changed a rear tire. Went to a motorcycle shop, about 40 minutes away to get the tire changed. At the last second I put all the wheel parts in the truck before I left. Good thing I did because he did have a dynamic balancer that would work but the hub had to be reassemble to the wheel first to fit his balancer. Since then I have not taken anything off the rear wheel except for the sprocket and outer spacers. Not a problem.