Printable View
I checked my belt tension yesterday with a Crikit II and came up with a reading of 100#. This seemed low to me based on the spec in the e-manual (750 ± 250 newtons). These numbers translate to 169 ± 56 pounds, up in the area where a lot of you say you are running.
Today I looked at the service bulletin, and there the numbers are 450 ± 150 newtons, or 101 ± 34 pounds... which would put me in the ballpark.
After my RTS was retensioned by the dealer, it read about 120-130 on the Krikit...while resting on the ground. I think you are in the right ballpark.
I will probably get flack over my old school technique but someone else mentioned this on here before but I don`t remember who. Anyway grab the sides of the belt between your thumb and pointing finger by the narrow sides in the center between the pullys. Then twist the belt. You should not be able to rotate over 90 deg. but you should be able to get there before the force is to great for your fingers. This is how I set mine and i feel very comfortable with this setup. Just how I do mine, good luck.
I mentioned it, and it seems to be a good check. That is also how mine was after being retensioned. Only about 1/8 turn before it was reset. That also was on the ground, at the same time I checked it withthe Krikit. The best thing to do is to check with a Krikit or a twist right after the dealer tensions it properly, to get a baseline to go from.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stripperking
Scotty, I had a feeling that mine might be on the loose side. I seem to get some vibrational slap, especially under acceleration in fifth gear. I may run mine up into the 130 range and see if that helps. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by NancysToy
Don't quote me on the exact number. It has been a while since I checked. I wouldn't go too low, especially if your dealer set it. They have better equipment to do so...as long as they follow the procedure exactly. On the other hand, if they fail to jack up the Spyder to unload the rear suspension before testing, and fail to take an average of three measurements, they could easily come out too loose. That's why I did the belt twist test to double check. You do not want to be able to twist more than 1/4 turn!Quote:
Originally Posted by sinkhole
The tension on my RT hasn't been changed since new, and I now have 6500 miles on it. I suspect that it has loosened some due to stretch, and figured that it was time to tighten it a bit... and also re-allign it. Mine has always run just about against the inboard flange.
Krikit??? :shocked: Could somebody please enlighten me?? :popcorn:Quote:
Originally Posted by NancysToy
I also think that I might have an alignment thing going on... The belt is over to the left; flush with the pulley.
:dontknow:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Over to the left or or to right??
I set mine an 1/8 inch off the flange,[left] That eliminated most of the belt wine. But because of the way the belt sets up on the pulley :shocked:'
You must check it after you move the Spyder 10/15 feet forward in a strait line.
Or jack up the rear wheel and spin the wheel forward by hand.
Krikit is a belt tension gauge available from NAPA stores. No correlation to the BRP sonic gauge, however...yopu have to find your own base line setting.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
You da MAN! Thanks! :ohyea::2thumbs: A trip to NAPA will be in order once this crappy weather stops... :cus:
Bob, Mine is sitting flush on the left side... opposite the flange.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
The belt tends to wander if turned into a space or backed in .
If you can run it forward [strait] it should move back.
It was explained to me by a guy who manufacturer's belts as to why this happens.
Something about the direction of the cords in the belt:dontknow:
You want the one without the flange, although you can file the flange off. I think it is the KR2, but I can't remember for sure. Can't get to the garage to look, until I do some more shoveling. We were spared the heaviest snow...Battle Creek only got a foot, but the drifts are mean.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Why is the flange an unwanted thing? :shocked:
(Stay out of the drifts! :thumbup:)
You want to measure in the centor of the (wide) belt. The flanged model prevents that. It is for V-belts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Thanks! :thumbup:
The KR2 is flangeless. :2thumbs: