Did you find the bolt number for the 2015/17 F3S?
thanks
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There you go again, now you’re down to name calling, you jumped in on a thread that we had going concerning failed sprockets I’m trying to gather data to send to BRP to address an issue that affects all F3 owners, you included and you’ve had nothing to contribute other than negative comments. So let it go, sit back and hope the info I’m gathering will help you and others!:doorag::doorag::doorag:
Guys, if we bicker enough in this thread it will get pulled, we will be doing a disservice to any fellow ryders that come in after this. Please don't offend someone and if you get offended by someone, don't let them bait you.
2017
https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/cam/57d2c01487a8660e6845ba4a/drive-system-rear-all-models
Item # 40.
2015
https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemp...ve-system-rear
#4 and #9
I didn't look up the 2016, but it looks like the only difference is flange bolt vs. bolt and washer.
cmarsala - please see post #134 and advise. (hint:ignore the fools - don't dignify their posts with acknowledgement as it only serves to encourage them.)
CMARSALA;
if you install a 'tie wire', obviously you'll need to drill a hole in the bolt head and the sprocket... if yours fails (i hope it doesn't), and your dealer sees the 'wire', i'm willing to bet your warantee is cancelled on the spot.... also, the bolt does nothing other than stop the sprocket from migrating off the shaft... it has nothing to do with the sprocket failing..... jmho
Dan P
SPYD3R
Just checked both of our 2015 F3SE’s from sprocket with approximately 12,000 miles AND my wife’s bike has the dreaded rust. My bike, however, is clean. We use our spiders mostly for touring and my wife is a moderate rider. We do not pull a trailer and we do not ride two up. I am more aggressive. Not crazy, but definitely like to “burn fuel” once in a while. Yet my bike has no rust.
Will need to fix my wife’s bike, but do I replace mine even if there is not rust?
Did BRP address this issue with improved parts?
Really appreciate this forum and in particular this thread.
Any advice?
I'm curious on your two 2015 F3SE's if they both have the same part number on the sprocket? Also when they were build at the factory. Could it be that there is a range of Spyders that where made with a different manufactures part? Also check your S/N to see if they are close to the same.
Went down the serial #, build train of thought after my first failure. Unfortunately the responses I received from people showed a wide range of serial numbers and model years. Mine is a early 2015 F3s SE6 (I think it was the first retail delivery in FL) but we are seeing the issue with 2016's and 2017's as well.
CJ JAX
Thanks cmarsala - that's 100% of rusty pulley bolts (2 out of 2 reported here :cheers:) that tightened when re-torqued. Same old cause with same old result - failure probably due to 'inadequate clamping force' at the factory and/or inappropriate materials.
BRP = :chat: :rolleyes: - Spyders riders = :banghead: :shocked:
Checked mine today and found gray dust on the pulley but it wasn't red.
I'll be calling my dealer tomorrow and ask him if he has changed any yet or what his thoughts are.
The last four digits on mine 2131 too
I was talking to a very knowledgeable retired machinist the other day and he expressed his surprise that the splines were not tapered. He said that in most of these type applications, they will taper the splines for a more secure fit.
Is it safe to re-torque (Turn the bolt an extra half inch or whatever IF Needed ) without actually Putting a New Bolt On?
My New Sprocket won't be here till Monday.
I don't think that is a TTY (torque to yield) bolt, so you should be OK for a few days. Might reapply loctite. If it was TTY bolt they actually stretch when put in the first time, become work hardened, and then hold an exact clamping force. The torque procedure is to torque them to a specific torque, then rotate the bolt a specific number of degrees. With this bolt just having a set torque with no additional rotation it is not a TTY bolt, so you should be good.
The local shop checked the shaft and said that it was within specs. They will be installing a new sprocket ending in part number 2134. This is the second replacement sprocket. (Original failed - 28,000 miles, first replacement failed - 6000 miles later). I put on about 24,000 mile a year. I would hate to think that every 6000 miles I would have to replace the sprocket (each repair takes about 2-3 weeks)
2 - 3 WEEKS....?????????
mine was done in 4 days... took her in on a Tuesday, rode off on Friday....
my dealer just ordered a bunch (3 or so) to have on hand... inform your dealer to do the same...
best of luck, and hope this is the VERY LAST ONE you'll ever need to replace....
Dan P
SPYD3R
Got my Spyder back today after having the sprocket replaced. Old part # was 2131. New part # on work order is 2134. But when I pulled the cover to check there were no numbers on the sprocket. Just an X on the edge at 180 degrees and one at 360 degrees.