Belt tension 190 on ground = how much wheel off ground?

I ask this because I’ve searched and read until my eyes are crossed and not found the answer or formula.
I had a new rear tire installed at the dealer and now have a bad belt vibration that can start at 54 mph and continue up to 72 mph (I haven’t tried faster).
I want to go into the dealer on Monday and have them set the belt tension to 190 wog but if they don’t want to do it with the wheel on the ground, I want to be prepared with what tension to ask them to set it at.
I also have printed the bulletin from 2015 to show them.

Thanks everyone

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Originally Posted by Wrongway

I ask this because I’ve searched and read until my eyes are crossed and not found the answer or formula.
I had a new rear tire installed at the dealer and now have a bad belt vibration that can start at 54 mph and continue up to 72 mph (I haven’t tried faster).
I want to go into the dealer on Monday and have them set the belt tension to 190 wog but if they don’t want to do it with the wheel on the ground, I want to be prepared with what tension to ask them to set it at.
I also have printed the bulletin from 2015 to show them.

Thanks everyone

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I doubt very much that they will accommodate you on this .... Dealers follow the BRP manual for settings and repairs ..... However if you get lucky, I have my RT at 160 lbs measured On - the - Ground .... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911

I doubt very much that they will accommodate you on this .... Dealers follow the BRP manual for settings and repairs ..... However if you get lucky, I have my RT at 160 lbs measured On - the - Ground .... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

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Found the same with our local dealer, I also run 160 on the ground. On random times it's get the belt vib but only seems to happen while Cruise Control is on.

I guess I didn’t explain myself very well.
What I’m looking for is a way to translate the belt tension with the wheel on ground to the belt tension with the rear wheel suspended.
So 160 wog = ??? With wheel suspended.

Two things: The belt tension will go to zero if you jack up the cycle enough. If you do this, disconnect the linkage for the air-ride suspension height first, else you will break it. IMHO wheels on the ground is the only sensible place to measure tension.

So this vibration began to occur immediately after a rear tyre change. Alarm bells ring for me.

Why?
You do not have to mess with the adjusters to remove the rear wheel as you can walk the belt off. Then you can remove the axle and then the wheel assembly. Again without messing with the adjusters. Replace the tyre and refit. Refit the wheel assembly. Walk the belt back on, again without messing with the adjusters. So nothing should have changed with the tension.

I would revisit the new tyre and check its mounted correctly and ....gasp....shock ....horror....ensure its balanced.

I would also suggest a Krikit belt tension gauge. Easy to use and it takes only moments to check the belt tension.



PS please enter your ride particulars as it makes a difference when asking for advice. Year and model that is.

Here is how to remove a rear wheel without messing in any way with the adjusters so you can see what im on about.

Good luck. Over to you.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=juVK1ogc1BA

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Originally Posted by Isopedella

So this vibration began to occur immediately after a rear tyre change. Alarm bells ring for me.

Why?
You do not have to mess with the adjusters to remove the rear wheel as you can walk the belt off. Then you can remove the axle and then the wheel assembly. Again without messing with the adjusters. Replace the tyre and refit. Refit the wheel assembly. Walk the belt back on, again without messing with the adjusters. So nothing should have changed with the tension.

I would revisit the new tyre and check its mounted correctly and ....gasp....shock ....horror....ensure its balanced.

I would also suggest a Krikit belt tension gauge. Easy to use and it takes only moments to check the belt tension.



PS please enter your ride particulars as it makes a difference when asking for advice. Year and model that is.

Here is how to remove a rear wheel without messing in any way with the adjusters so you can see what im on about.

Good luck. Over to you.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=juVK1ogc1BA

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Thanks. My ride particulars are in my signature. I do see that the dealer removed the old wheel weights and installed new ones.
I’m actually familiar with the belt vibrations and this isn’t my first Spyder and maybe I’m just noticing it more because I was looking for a vibration (and found it).
I’ll take it into the dealer on Tuesday and get his thoughts. I did notice that although I don’t yet have a Krikit, I’m able to turn the belt to 90 degrees with 1 finger and thumb even with my arthritis.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Isopedella

So this vibration began to occur immediately after a rear tyre change. Alarm bells ring for me.
Why?
You do not have to mess with the adjusters to remove the rear wheel as you can walk the belt off. Then you can remove the axle and then the wheel assembly. Again without messing with the adjusters. Replace the tyre and refit. Refit the wheel assembly. Walk the belt back on, again without messing with the adjusters. So nothing should have changed with the tension.

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The issue is that the OP had the dealer do this change, ISO, and the BRP guidelines have the wrench release the adjusters etc rather than just walking the belt off. They then put it all back together and set the adjusters for the specified BRP alignment and tension. Anything you do personally gets over-ridden, unfortunately. That’s why things have possibly changed with the tension……and they will not let the Spyder leave the workshop if it is not to BRP spec…..believe me, I’ve tried….hard :mad:

Pete

This week I got my sprocket done and before at 140 pd cricket I had No vibration until 75+ NOW after the adjustment I,m at 180 Cric and getting that annoying vibration I never had at 65-67 mph. I will drop it to at least 160 or lower and send the vibration higher.

Anybody know the answer to the original question? 160 with wheel on the ground equals ? with wheel in the air?

Nobody came up with an answer Bunson. After much investigation I’m guessing the on the ground is about 20 pounds more than in the air.

So just to update.
I took it into the dealer this morning and asked them to reduce the belt tension due to the vibration.
The lowest they would go is 900 newtons or 202 pounds. It is much better. Still a slight vibration under certain conditions but better than it was.
I got to talk with the technician when he brought the spyder out and based on the 2015 tst bulletin that I showed him, he said he will be willing to adjust it as low as 800 newtons but told me to try it for a week as see how it is.
Of course he said that he was completely unaware of the bulletin despite the fact that he’s been working on spyders at the same dealership since 2008.

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Originally Posted by Wrongway

Nobody came up with an answer Bunson. After much investigation I’m guessing the on the ground is about 20 pounds more than in the air.

So just to update.
I took it into the dealer this morning and asked them to reduce the belt tension due to the vibration.
The lowest they would go is 900 newtons or 202 pounds. It is much better. Still a slight vibration under certain conditions but better than it was.
I got to talk with the technician when he brought the spyder out and based on the 2015 tst bulletin that I showed him, he said he will be willing to adjust it as low as 800 newtons but told me to try it for a week as see how it is.
Of course he said that he was completely unaware of the bulletin despite the fact that he’s been working on spyders at the same dealership since 2008.

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I did mine today 2015 F3 after they did the sprocket. I adjusted it to 140 in the air and its 160 on the ground. Thats with the krikic which you should purchase.

I imagine that the below procedures may have been different for earlier Spyder years, but for those with a 2020+ Spyder, here is what the 2020+ Service Manual page 189 says:

PS: I removed the part that says to use expensive ultrasonic BRP Belt Tension Meter (P/N 529 036 115).

Just wanted to add a couple things. Yesterday I lowered my tension again to about 125 in the air after running bike to adjust. This equaled 140-145 on the ground. Roughly 20 pound difference with bike only 2 inches lifted. If you just start and NOT touch the throttle when adjusting the bike it won,t go into vss faults. Also , when I put thje bike down after adjustment it made a screaching sound when moving forward and back in garage? 3 hours later I went back and moved it out and in garage and ALL was fine. I think right after the jacked up adjustment this may occur. My belt is now in the middle in front and 2-3mm from the back sprocket inner wall. This is back where I was before the Sprocket replacement and there is no vibration through 75mph and I rarely go over that in CT.

I ran mine with its ass in the air and adjusted the alignment on the rear pulley.
Had the front wheels chocked :thumbup: .....and ran in gear on the idle.

I did get a fault code. :yikes:

Nanny must have picked up the front wheels were not turning as normal. And threw a code. I asked about it on here, take it for a ride and it will clear itself was suggested.

Sure enough it cleared between the shed and my front gate. :2thumbs:

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Originally Posted by Isopedella

I ran mine with its ass in the air and adjusted the alignment on the rear pulley.
Had the front wheels chocked :thumbup: .....and ran in gear on the idle.

I did get a fault code. :yikes:

Nanny must have picked up the front wheels were not turning as normal. And threw a code. I asked about it on here, take it for a ride and it will clear itself was suggested.

Sure enough it cleared between the shed and my front gate. :2thumbs:

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Mine does not throw a code when doing that. Mine is a 2020 though.

Mine also and it's a 2012

My thinking was if you don,t give it any throttle the computer thinks its standing still? Couple years ago I adjusted it and gave it a little throttle and it threw the code-which cleared. Mine has the clutch.

I dont think I operated the throttle at all. Just started it and let it run. Key, buttons, brake and starter. But it turned out all good in the end.