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Ok gang... I'm pretty sure I add oil though the oil dip tube...????
2017 F3-S and the manual talks plenty about checking oil, even changing oil, but does not mention fill point. I need to crawl over the bike a bit more as I've only had it since saturday, but again... You add oil through the same tube as the dip stick right?
Nope ---- where the OIL comes out --- the OIL goes back in ..... Soooooooooooooo yes you have to turn the Spyder over to do this :gaah:.......This is why most owner's take it to the dealer ....................:roflblack::roflblack::roflbla ck: ....Mike :thumbup:
Yep, the filler tube is the way, and way easier than Mikes method...:shocked:
True but the pictures while doing it Mike's way would be epic!Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroPilot
:agree: :D
Actually: I really can't think of all that many folks with 1330s that have ever had to add oil...
Mine hasn't used a drop in over 15,000 miles! :thumbup:
But you might want to check with Ann: she's got about 90,000 miles on hers!
I have 95000 1330 miles and still have not had to add any oilQuote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
:shocked: That's right: you've got a pair of them! :D
:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
[QUOTE=Bob Denman;1173369]:shocked: That's right: you've got a pair of them! :D
:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:[/QUOTE ]......:gaah: :lecturef_smilie: Bob - remember this is Family Friendly site soooooooooooo please keep it clean :2thumbs: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack::roflblack: ............Mike :thumbup:
:opps: A right manly pair they are!! :clap: :2thumbs:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
So I've heard. My oil level is sitting right at the minimum mark right now. I will probably add about 4 or 5 ounces as the difference between min and max is 17 ounces based on some investigation already.
No... I'm not someone you have to worry about over-filling it. :)
There have been some changes made regarding the suggested amount of oil to use...
let me see if I can find it!
EDIT: Found it! :thumbup:
Ok gang... I'm puzzled.
I added maybe 6 ounces to the engine. Went for a ride and came back. Checked oil. It is now sitting above max line. It had been on min line.
So... I broke out the oil vacuum I have and proceeded to suck out oil. Did it twice... I know I took out what I put in or more. Dam oil is still reading above max on stick after idling engine plenty long enough. Will go for short ride tomorrow and see what happens.
I shouldn't speak for you, but I tend to be a little "picky" as well about the oil level, as well as where the belt is tracking on the rear sprocket. Can't seem to get it just perfect. The great thing is that they don't use oil, so as long as I have it a little below the full mark, and above the add mark after a 30 minute run when the oil and engine are hot (and I've let it idle til the fan comes on,,, I guess I'm good. Which reminds me.... the last time I checked the wifes bike oil level was at the full level bead.....where did I put my oil extractor?? ;);)
Quote:
Originally Posted by WackyDan
:D The PERFECT oil level...
So near; yet so far! :shocked:
So i keep taking oil out... And she is still over the max.
Maybe tomorrow I'll get it right.
So... Little update. First, I verified how much oil was left in the quart I added from... I did indeed only add roughly six ounces to the F3.
I ended up sucking even more oil out, running it, riding it, then sucking more out and the same.
I finally got it down to halfway between min and max... rode some more and it seems to wander a bit on the stick, but still mostly middle. Added four ounces because I didn't trust the dip stick now and she is just a bit below max and staying there.
Theory? When I was first checking the oil she wasn't up to full temp - pretty sure I had gone for a short ride and long enough idle. She had shown right on min... Then I added 6 ounces. Then I was over max and kept taking out oil.
I became paranoid as I must have sucked the better part of a quart out before she landed between min and max. At this point I think the factory or dealer overfilled it. Will run it again tomorrow before heading to Maggie Valley to see if anything changes...but will bring a partial quart with me just in case. :banghead:
:clap: Thanks for the detailed update! :2thumbs:
Still feel obliged to check the oil about once every week or so, usually after longer ride or trip. I let it run after pulling into the shade of the garage, while I take the riding gear off, get a drink or check the mailbox, and by then the scavenger pumps have had time to level things out at idle. Usually the fans have cycled on in that time, and I know that levels should be uniform in the sump.
In good light I can get a good reading on the oil level and it will be just below the FULL bead on the stick, but still a feeling that it is ready for the next ride.
The only time I need to adjust is after an oil change, if I wasn't using new (full) bottles for the 5 quarts going back in. (I use a gallon jug plus one more quart)
FOR the 1330 SE6
Mine uses oil and we all know they do prior to the 1330. The main things is when you measure it. I think they like to have the operation temp at the point the fan/fans come on. We mostly measure after a long ryde but glad you found the right level.....now you know and for you it will stay there till the next change. Remember if the dealer does it you need to recheck....:lecturef_smilie:
I was wondering about the oil deal , one of our riders mentioned not unusual too add 4 too 8 oz.s after about 1000 .mile ride I have put 8 in , 4 in , and around 7 in at different times of riding , so I wonder if the compression , with the high r.p.m. down shift and up shift causes the oil too drop ?
Let the fans cycle a few times so that you know you are at the correct temp. I have an oil change on my F3 probably in a few weeks (3k service) and I plan on adding 5 qts. with the filter change and checking it stone cold without running. Then starting it up and going to warm up and checking it then. In theory, this will give me a cold location and a hot location on the DS. I would do it now, but not sure it has the right amount of oil in it. I'll try to post a couple of pictures of both levels on the DS...
I would run it for at least 60 seconds or until you have oil pressure (which should be less than 60 seconds). Otherwise you'll have voids in the system that would normally be filled by oil at all times. 60 seconds will not heat the oil any significant amount and you won't have any empty spaces throwing off your COLD measurement.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys
This past month, it was time to do my annual oil change on my 2015 F3S Spyder. When I had bought the trike, the selling dealer had done the oil and tire change because the trike had 6k miles on it. I had looked at Lamonster's video several times along with some others and had even bought a 36mm wrench to make removal of the oil filter canister top simple.
What I found in the original poster's dilemma is that with the various places that Can-Am devised for holding oil for the 1330 Rotax, getting an accurate reading and determining just how much to put in can be a real pain in the neck. I personally prefer to have my oil levels on my motorcycles right in the middle between min and max so as to not get blowby into the recirculating systems of these machines. What I encountered with my 1330 is that determining what the precise fill level is is not as simple as it appears? I seemed to have gone up to the Max bump on the dipstick and possibly a millimeter more and I was not comfortable with the condition. So, I pulled the clutch-side drain plug, measured the oil that came out which was about 910ml and then added back in about half that amount with more fresh oil to get the oil level to show half way up the min-max on the dipstick. What a great machine with such a convoluted scheme for oil changes. It is no wonder that dealerships are routinely overfilling these things because they may not have gotten out the maximum amount of oil at drain time and therefore can tend to overfill if they follow BRP's updated fill suggestions. Coupled with that issue is the fact that the oil plumbing is relatively complex and requires a petroleum engineer to properly refill these things:gaah:
I must say thanks to BajaRon as well for suggesting the cold temp test procedure of running the engine to get any of the oil galleries full of oil before checking the oil level cold. BTW, while changing out my oil, I replaced the stock oil bolts with Gold Plugs that give me much greater confidence moving forward in not stripping out the bolts and additionally having a magnetic pickup for the "crankcase" bolt.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt. Bob
I keep an oil/auto fluid vac in the garage. Typically use it for changing oil in my lawn equipment. That made removing oil from the dip tube far easier than cracking one of the drain plugs.
The lesson i learned is, once it is overfilled, even if by a tiny amount (which likely won't hurt anything), you have to remove quite a bit of oil to get her to register properly on the dip again. That meant sucking out some oil... Going for a spirited ride... Coming back, checking oil... sucking out more, going for another ride... Etc. Was a pain, but I'm happy to say I got it right on my first oil change.
Mike,Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Your disgusting--that's what I really like about you:clap:.
Darrell