Well my 2012 RSS goes in the shop on Monday for a leaky watter pump comming out the drain hole
How big of a job is this for my dealer and should i expect to see my spyder any time soon?
Im really depressed i wanted to do some riding this weekend the weather here in FLA is beautyful and spyde is going in the shop i hope not for to long what do you all think Thanks Mike.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcaccamise
Have they ordered the part? Is it in stock? How busy is your dealer? Lots to consider.
Hopefully it'll all go smoothly :thumbup:
I had the same thing taken care of over the winter. It was right at 6 days. Dropoff, tear down day, 3 days for parts, and back together in a day.
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Its a pretty involved repair....
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Thanks Guys looks like they will have it for the week hope i get a good pump i have heard of some being replaced up to three times before they got a good pump and seal.
I have the same problem and dropped off my bike at the dealer on Tuesday. The parts are in and it should be done later today. My mechanic said he hasn't seen a waterpump oil leak in two years.
Well guys it turns out that it must be a major job with taking the complete right side of the spyder apart mine was repaired to stop the oil leak and once that was repaired the watter leak side of things turned out to be more extensive so additional parts had to be ordered to stop all leaks, also i had a watter mark in my guages so i had them replace the cluster under warentee and the spyder should be returning home this comming week hooray.
i really miss the little buger in the garage its kind of depressing walking out to the garage without seeing the spyder to look at im ready for it to come home.
Mike
I had a BRP mechanic tell me that I had the same problem. It was going to cost 6-700 dollars to fix and was a pretty involved process. The money was not as big an issue as having the engine torn into. My experience with BRP mechanics working on an engine is not good. Actually it has been quite awful on three separate Rotax engines. So I did some research and found that this weeping is pretty common on the Rotax and there is no long term fix. You should look into that and make your own decision. I did not have mine fixed and I keep a semi close eye on the fluid levels and ride on. Good luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcaccamise
Totally agree, it's very common on this motor. Most of the Aprilia guys don't sweat it unless it REALLY starts to leak quite a bit of oil or coolant.Quote:
Originally Posted by bobnaquin
:thumbup: just had mine done just over a year old. Aargh
From Deep in the Hart of Texas!
My 08 GS with 41,000 has been slightly leaking oil out of that weep hole for over 2 years now, it hasn't gotten any worse and sometimes seems to stop for a while, then I will notice a teaspoon full again. I'm hesitant to let my dealers mechanics tear into it, quite a job and sometimes the repair doesn't last too long I've read. More info is available on the Aprilia forums.
Hi guys the spyder is comming home tomorrow no leaks and some minor warentee work done be glad to have her home.
Mine was leaking more than a few drops infact it had the bottom cover pooled and was leaking out the bottom so i thought it best to have it repaired will see how long it lasts now its time to ride,be safe and enjoy the wint in your face.
Mike
I just wanted to give a big shout out to Central FL Powersports for the great job they have done the leak is repaired
the center console is replaced and the bike runs like a top all parts and labor under warentee thanks guys.
Mike
I just hit 7000 miles on my RT and oil is basically pouring out the water pump weep hole, I lose about 1/2 quart every 50 miles. I'm highly upset about this, I'm out of the warranty and the dealer would not give me a price until they looked at it but stated it was about $135 plus for parts and about 6 hours labor. I've investigated most spyder forums and find this to be common, very common, most average about 7000 miles unless your lucky, the fix only last about as long and it starts sooner after every repair there after. Not happy!!! So I decided to fix this myself, 1st thing was ditch the huge air box and the resonator which is about the same size, kewlmetal filter on the way, 2nd I bypassed the water pump on the engine, took out the shaft, gear ect. blocked of the opening where the water pump shaft was, plugged the weep hole, Davies Craig 9001 electric pump on the way, this should take care of any oil or antifreeze leaks from the weep hole forever. Other things i'm doing for the massive heat this thing puts off is wrapping the front exhaust pipe, remove catalyst and putting in the bypass pipe, a fan on the oil cooler, Juice Box and 2 Brothers Exhaust. With any luck I may be able to ride it one summer without any issues. Will update once it's done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcaccamise
I agree the crew at CFPS in Kissimmee Fl are the best. Justin is a great mechanic and I would not let anyone else touch my Spyder.
Glad things worked out for you.
The thing is since this is a reacuring problem and BRP admits to so i believe i have heard this repair is still warenteed even if the bikes warentee is out mine was under warentee so no problem and it is running great but i would still enquire as to weather this problem could be taken care of in the future for anyone that has come upon this problem.
At this point im a happy camper and yes they do take care of us at CFPS even to the extent of pickup and delivery.
Mike
ask the dealer for a loaner sometimes they do when you are there on warrenty work.I had the same problems on my 2012 rt se5 ltd.oil leak/coolant leak/purge valve/02 senors/water pump/engine light coming on due to cheap gas with only 4000 km so I know how you feel....
Well, slowly putting her back together, I gutted my cat and got it welded shut and put that back on (how I did it is in another post), did this to save money so no bypass pipe . She's a little louder but not much, gutting cat made little difference in that area but a lot less heat. The oil cooler fan I wired to the radiator fan so they come on together and all works well, I used a SPAL 4" fan mounted towards the bottom of the cooler. I think maybe my thermostat comes on a little late, hit 8 bars during idle then temp dropped to 1 bar so new pump is working great, it's installed between the tank and the the motors water pump housing. Had the low oil light/pressure problem code P0524 quick search on here cleared up that worry. Wrapped the exhaust pipes, all but where the welds are (I seen on here that those spots could rust so decided to avert more problems) and its much cooler! Waiting on Kewlmetal air filter and will test all my mods on the road to be sure all is ok, but so far so good.
That's a very interesting idea/setup bypassing the mechanical pump that way. Did you happen to take any pics along the way you could post up?Quote:
Originally Posted by rarerockmusic
I really like it when someone's not afraid to think outside the box to get things done! Nice job!.
Doug
I have a pic of where the pump is now, I didn't take any of how I blocked off the original pump, planned on it but once I get busy I forget to stop. I used a bolt, and 2 washers, washers just the right size to fit each side enough to block off the seals, then JB weld to seal it up. Guessing now I should have used alumaloy or something but hopefully the JB holds, should be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewNJ
This does sound like a good way to get around the leaky pump seals my concern is jb welding the block off plate and screws may cause further problems in the future if u need to remove the pump housing and bolts?
The electric watter pump should handle your cooling issues and less the oil leak u should be good to go for a while,
i hope this mod works well for u :ani29: on.
Mike
I agree. This certainly does give me something to think about if I ever have to pull the water pump apart myself. :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by mcaccamise
Well I tried the water pump in 2 locations, 1st from the tank to the top of the old pump, didn't care for the initial over heat every time so I moved it in between the thermostat and the larger port on the engine pump housing, With the pump going from the tank when the thermostat opened temp went to 1-3 bars. Now intial idle does the same but when the thermostat opens temps drop to 3 or 4 during idle, no road test yet to see if the over heat is averted while riding due to my new issue, now I have the P0524 problem low oil\engine light\limp mode, had it off after doing the 3-4k idle for a minute but now it's back with a vengeance, so guess I'm looking at a oil pressure switch now. Kewlmetal air filter is on back order and no date insight for that and of course I already took the air box off. Summers passing by again and another one without a decent ride on the Spyder. Guess I got the sourest lemon of the bunch. I can't keep count of the issues I've had. BRP will be getting a call tomorrow or a nice letter, I'm about done with this RT.
Pump housing wasn't modified, only where the shaft and seals were. Pump housing needs to stay due to a water jacket behind it leading directly into the engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcaccamise
After looking at diagrams and the Spyder I figured out the best place for the new water pump. What I'm doing now is running the bypass hose from the thermostat into a tee connector a 3/4 x 3/4 x 1 which will be placed just after the fill tank, just past that is where the pump will go (where I had it the first time) then use another adapter 3/4 x 1 to go from the pump to the lower inlet of the original water pump, then place a 3/4 heater block of cap where the tank line went into the original pump. A perfect bypass. Then on to the other issues, I'll beat this thing before it beats me....