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I have a 2013 RT-S with original battery. I've always used a tender, I guess that's why I've gotten 5yrs from the battery. I also have voltage guage mounted on the dash and it has always remained at 13.4 - 14 volts. Just yesterday it started bouncing between 12.5 - 13.1 volts and when I started the bike as it was running the screen went white and cycled while running. Suggestions?
Thanks in advance!
Dying battery. Replace it before you are replacing generator parts....you have gotten good life out of it. Better than most.
Ours did the same right before the battery went out. Does the voltage drop below 10v while cranking?
No, it did not go below 10volts.Quote:
Originally Posted by M109Dreamer
All the battery threads support the notion of a dying battery based on age and voltage you've stated.
I just installed a new battery today. But voltage is still about the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by jcthorne
Although it is a new battery I would give it a full charge and go from there. If it does not hold you have developed a drain on the system. something possibly added that runs with the system off or an electrical issue in the wiring. If possible disconnect any additional electrical items and see which one may change the reading...:thumbup:
I replaced the battery on my 2014 yesterday. I did not want it to start acting up and leave me stranded. None of the signs, just time to replace at four years.
I see you replaced yours too. Chupaca gave good advice. :yes:
@taxmyzer If you'd like us to help with this matter, please send us an email at brp.care@brp.com and include your VIN and email address. Best regards, Karine BRPCareQuote:
Originally Posted by taxmyzer
Most likely.Quote:
Originally Posted by jcthorne
Also verify the meter readings with an external meter.
Your meter might be failing.......or there might be a loose connection.
And describing the readings as "about the same" isn't accurate enough.
Specific readings are important.
The new battery MUST be fully charged before considering that anything else might be wrong.
Fully charged, the battery itself should read between 12.7 and 12.9, maybe even a bit more.
With the engine running, it should read at least 13.3 and maybe as much as 14.5.
If you have the lower reading on the volt meter you have in the dash, it will show a lower voltage before you start it. Mine is always around 12-12.1 v before I start but checking at the battery will show 12.7. Once running the meter will show 13.7-13.8 v. So just make sure you're checking it at the battery to get the correct voltage.
If the voltage on the meter drops below 10v when starting it will recycle the display, I guess because all the necessary voltage goes to the starter and the blip just causes it to recycle. Mine did that when my original battery was getting weak. Remember, Spyders take a lot of voltage and amps to start so the battery needs to be in tip top condition or you will see all sorts of issues and possibly even error codes.
I was surprised when BRPCare responded to my post. They asked my vin# if I wanted assistance with my problem, so I responded with the requested information and as yet I have not gotten any emails back. :dontknow::dontknow::dontknow:
BRPcare
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http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/i...quote_icon.png Originally Posted by taxmyzer http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/i...post-right.png
I have a 2013 RT-S with original battery. I've always used a tender, I guess that's why I've gotten 5yrs from the battery. I also have voltage guage mounted on the dash and it has always remained at 13.4 - 14 volts. Just yesterday it started bouncing between 12.5 - 13.1 volts and when I started the bike as it was running the screen went white and cycled while running. Suggestions?
Thanks in advance!
@taxmyzer If you'd like us to help with this matter, please send us an email at brp.care@brp.com and include your VIN and email address. Best regards, Karine BRPCare
Why ask me for information if they don't intend to help?
I thought it was odd that they responded to your post also.
No thanks to BRP. I finally found the problem two bad relays. I ordered replacements from Amazon. The problem was caused by them being loose. They didn't fit tightly so they would move. I had to bend the tabs slightly so they would not move. BRP should come up with better fuse box design. I ordered new relays from Mouser more than 70% cheaper than BRP.
I always had a pretty quick response from BRP when I asked for information.
Glad you got your problem corrected. :thumbup:
Battery is DEAD. Trying to change out but can not locate it. No You Tube for 2015.
Any and all help appreciated.
Bob W
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwebb98
It's under the rider seat--tip the seat forward & you'll see it.
Darrell
No it’s not. For whatever reason, rwebb98 piggybacked onto the original topic. His title of his post asks where is the battery in regards to a 2015 RT series. On that year, the battery is located towards the front. Remove all your “stuff” out of the frunk. Remove or unzip the fabric liner if equipped with one. Notice on the aft wall of the frunk is an acess cover, the battery is behind that. Or, remove the entire frunk assembly, and that allows acess also. If you have an owners manual, it may be explained in that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildrice
Oops--it was dark in the garage & I accidentally flipped the seat on the riding lawn mower:banghead: The riding lawn mower & the Spyder are different--huh:banghead: I find that that a dumb funny on my part:yikes: The battery is directly behind the frunk container on my F3's.Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK
Darrell