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This video details the instructions for changing the height of the pedal without modifying the rod or changing the position of either pegs or boards. This mod will work on any F3, will allow up to a 2 position change in either direction (From P3 to either P4 or P5 or back to P2 or P1). You also will be able to adjust the height in 1/2" increments so you can get the height you want.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkEYgid7RDE
Thanks for addressing this important issue, but I could not find a link to a video in the post nor on your website.
the picture in his post is the videoQuote:
Originally Posted by mtnspdr
click the arrow in the middle of the pic
http://roadsterrenovations.infoQuote:
Originally Posted by mtnspdr
Go to the contact section and drop us an email using BP Mod as subject line and we will give you information for pricing and availability.
A little update. I brought my Daytona home in November 2016 with the UFit set at 3. After ryding part of last year I finally decided to buy the rod for position #4 so I could stretch out better. After I had rode for a while I wondered if position # 5 would be even more comfortable, but I didn't want to buy the rod and then not like the position.
After the initial installation of dropping the brake pedal down with the BP Mod, I decided to put the byke back up on the lift and move the pegs to position 5. Once there, I took it for a test ryde and didn't like it as much. Seems I was having to stretch my legs a little too much. I decided that I would ryde it for a bit before changing back. Yesterday, I made a short 20 mile ryde and noticed that if I came forward slightly on the seat I settled farther down into it and my legs were no longer having to reach as much. Today, I discovered what a difference in cornering it made. By being slightly lower, it was easier to lean into the curves and take them much quicker. Can't say for sure until warm weather gets here whether I'll stay at 5 or return to 4, but I love being able to have that option as well as a perfectly positioned pedal.
did mine using the kit from Roadster Renovations.
not a bad job to do-took me over an hour though as I was fiddling to find the right place for the pedal.
Don't have a lift so I did the lay on the floor method. There is limited room next to the muffler for your hands (mine anyway) so after you get the hang of things it might be easier to assemble the parts to the brake rod and then bolt all that to the actuator arm. On my third go at this I found that to make sense. When you get yours, watch the video first.
Wound up with the pedal a little more than an inch lower than stock
Between the included directions and the You Tube video you get all the info you need.
Did not move the peg from position 3, I think. Whatever came with the bike.
If you try to get it too flat (the brake pedal) it winds up where it doesn't do the job.
Now I can use the brake without lifting my foot from the peg and without arching my foot up to a place it was not meant to bend.
All you need is in the kit including locktite (and it's blue, not the atomic kind BRP uses)
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gotten this kit?
Wondering how you like it?
does a great job for me
It takes a while on this stuff, Dave....
Ordered this kit and received it in 2 days!
I did the install and I would say it took about an hour give or take. I did it by myself and it was not really difficult at all. Did not have a lift so drove the rear up on a Rhinoramp to give a little more clearance. I have the Lamonster Performance Muffler installed so the cat was not a hindrance. Plenty of room to work. Love the position of the pedal now. I don't get cramps having to lift and then arch my dang foot just to put on the brake. I still have to cut the excess off for a cleaner look but then again.
Noticed today at Roadster Renovations has a new version of this kit that adjusts pedal height only. Lower in price ($139 as I recall) but still too much for what it is.
Sorry that you think so. We tried mass producing them with a plasma table, but due to the "kerf" slight distortion on the edge, they then would not fit into the mill straight for all the holes to be drilled. So they are being done old school with a jig and a band saw. Not only do we have to cut both L brackets out, but all of those holes need to line up perfectly. The sandwich piece also requires precision holes that match. And the rod tether needs to be cut, formed, then the holes drilled. Then powdercoated. We will continue to offer these, but I don't see a price change.Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryinWI
How much lower is the pedal with the new kit? What does the other kit offer that the new one does not?
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryinWI
have you ever developed a project with many hours of time into development and testing?
How much time goes into sourcing material, developing good installation instructions, and getting the product shipped?
And is the research and development time to be done only for practice without any recouping of those costs?
And shipping costs. while not outrageous, are included. No consideration of that?
Why do people who've never done it have all the answers?
Kit #1 - First one adjusts exactly as much as the Kit #2. In 1/4" increments. The difference between each kit is that with kit #1 you can also move your pegs or boards 2 positions forward or backward as well as changing the pedal height. It does require the excess to be cut off. With the kit #2 you might (depending on your final pedal height) you might get one position moved and will not need any cutting.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetwater
The reason for kit #2 is that some people don't have the metal cutting tools. This is basically plug and play.
OK thank you..
Have you looked into having them laser cut? You could cut the part and the holes all at once. They shape of the bracket should nest quite nicely and not leave much scrap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadster Renovations