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Has anyone looked into fitting better adjusters into our frames? You’d think there has to be one that fits that pushes AND pulls without simply getting loose. Having to bang on the wheel, and tighten the axle nuts 20 times cause it messes up the alignment seems nuts to me.
As an addition to above: thoughts on drilling the end of the axle for a cotter pin? That single jam nut gives me the creeps.
2016 f3s
The belt provides the tension to keep the adjusters from being loose. With the axle nut loose the belt tension should hold for you to adjust.
All Spyders have holes for a cotter pin on the end of the axle. At least every one I have seen from 2008 to 2018. Perhaps yours is turned where you cannot see the holes?
I thought all the axles were drilled for a cotter pin? my 2012 rts is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetwater
If you spray some lube onto the axle shaft washer and nut, it will not change position when tightening.
I just had the axle out this weekend and there was no hole...Kinda surprised me. I will try lube next time. I only had luck when I tightened it from the left side and just held the right nut stationary till really snug. Better to adjust the belt with weight on the wheel?
I tightened mine up sitting on the ground, never moved.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetwater
Try lowering your tire back to the ground while the axle is still loose. That pushes the axle forward against the adjusters allowing you to tighten the axle easily. Finless Bob deserves credit for this hint. A little grease helps too.
When I do axle adjustments I get the axle snug enough so it won't move easily, but still loose enough so the adjusters will pull it. You have to start with a 'Too Loose' condition. But if you are careful and don't over adjust the tensioners, it works great. The axle stays where you put it during adjustment. Then you lower the Spyder to the ground and tighten the axle nut the rest of the way.
I found that leaving the axle nut completely loose just invites the small amount of movement which throws everything off when you attempt to tighten the axle nut.
Works for me anyway!
I think it's interesting that BRP doesn't use the same type of Adjusters they already have on their Snow-mobiles :banghead: .... Every Snow-mobile I ever worked on had the Adjusters you are asking about ...... Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetwater
Yeah, their axle adjuster system is pure crap. Harley has a much better and easier system, and probably cheaper to produce. Which leads me to suspect that BRP designed their system to suck you back into the dealership by necessitating specialty tools and knowledge. :p
I've kicked the idea around but haven't gotten really serious about it. I may try to figure something out in the next few weeks. I need to change the rear tire.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetwater
The experiences noted here vary. In fact, I had no trouble at all with the 2013 RT I had but had one h*** of a time with my 2014 getting the belt aligned. What I had happen was as I was tightening the right nut the friction of it against the frame moved the axle backward causing the belt to track to the outside. Even a lubed washer between the nut and swing arm didn't prevent the movement. I finally solved the problem by wedging a 2" thick wedge between the right side of the tire and the swing arm so the tire could not move.
Read my saga here: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...gnment-Problem
:agree::agree::agree: I totally agree in what you are saying, if you had adjusters that when you turn them in or out and was attached to the adjustment bolt there would be NO slop on the shaft. That would be awesome:yes::yes: in my book!! Not to mention the job would be easier, OMG:clap::clap:!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetwater
BRP already makes a better system - but they only use them on their snow-mobiles ..( maybe on the four wheelers also but I have no info on that ) ......... Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by KX5062
I just looked at a few parts diagrams for Ski Doos. The system there is better in that the adjusting bolt goes through a captured nut so it will not move but the adjusting is done by the bolt pushing against the axle with belt tension holding the axle tight against the bolt. So the same problem could exist even if that arrangement on was used the Spyder in that the axle still could move away from the adjuster when the axle nut is tightened. What is needed is a way to keep the axle from moving either direction while the nut is being tightened.Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
I would not be lubing nuts & washers. Torque for bolts/nuts is usually specified with dry condition bolts/nuts. Lubing a bolt & nut requires you to reduce the torque when you are tightening the bolt/nut or you may over tension the bolt/nut.
I take it you haven't gone through the belt alignment process yet! When you do you very well may find yourself saying, "To hell with the rules! I gotta do something to get the damn thing to track right!!!!!" :banghead::banghead: BTW, I did not lube the nuts, just the washers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckhard
One thing I learned last week while aligning the belt on my RTS is to run the tire in reverse. I had the front wheels strapped to ramps and the rear lifted by a floor jack. What I finally figured out is that the belt needs to be run forward, reverse, and forward again before checking the tracking. You do this by actually running the bike. I took mine through all six gears up to 2800 engine rpm. The speedo doesn't work when the front tires aren't turning. If the belt is running against the flange and you tighten the right adjuster and turn the wheel forward only the belt won't move. By running it in reverse the belt will move to the outside and then when you run it forward the belt will move to its most comfortable position. Back and forth, back and forth, forces the belt to run where it really wants to run for the adjuster settings at that point.
My frustration level dropped significantly when I saw that happening.
Oh, running the bike in gear with the front wheels locked down is not a problem. You will see all sorts of unhappy responses from Nanny about brake failure, limp home, and I don't recall what all. But once you're on the ground and all wheels turning together the codes clear out.
I have spent many hours trying to get my 2015 RTS aligned. I finally got it but it was a battle. I have a thought but haven't tried it yet. What if you took a steel rod and ran it through the axle bolt and held each end tight with a ratchet strap. I don't think you would need much tension on the straps just enough to keep the adjusters tight. Has anyone tried this by chance? Do you see any issues with doing this?
Same kind of adjusters on my Suzuki. I use duct tape to hold them tight to the swingarm on the Suzuki and the Can Am.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetwater
I considered doing that exact same thing, except with a threaded rod somehow. I can't figure out anyplace to get a good solid anchor on the swing arm to pull hard on the rod. I'm not sure a ratchet strap would do the trick because regardless how tight you pull it there will probably a minuscule amount of stretch in the strap, and if the axle moves the least little bit while tightening the nut it throws the tracking off. And finding room between the swing arm and muffler to grab the end of the rod would be a challenge.Quote:
Originally Posted by wrb3004
I think the best solution is lube under the washer, start the bike, and run the tire forward and backward.
I talked to the service manager at the local dealership the other day about my travails. He understood and sympathized indicating they have a lot of trouble many times getting the tracking just right. When I said I finally got it he said, "You did good!"
Okay, so while I had time I replaced the Kumho which got me 23,500 miles (and some life still left) with a new General, and while I was at it put on Docs AeRyde bag protector. Thanks to all and the suggestion to remove the Schrader core helped get the bag and support nested nicely. Also looked at the rear brake pads and cleaned them up. There was still more than half of the outer pad, but since I had new ones on the shelf I replaced them with a little Disk Brake Quiet to boot. Then since I was reassembling I thought I'd tweak the belt alignment before torquing the axle back. It was close, so I just turned an eighth turn clockwise on the right adjuster and tightened her up an took it round the block.
WHAAAA??? Now the belt was out towards the outside---you dummy, you went the wrong way. Its heck getting old:banghead:. Well loosen it back up, back off a quarter turn, make sure the adjuster caps are tight and also used the wooden wedge between the swingarm and the front of the tire on the right side to hold it forward while I torqued it to 130 ft-lbs (reduced 20% for a lubed washer and nut) and took it for a ride and now just right. Just to put the caps on, cable guide holder back and ready to RYDE, RYDE, RYDE!!:yes:
Does turning adjustment bolt Clockwise move the axel to the rear?
:agree: Worked for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Highwayman2013
Yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by redqweb