How do I know the DPS is working?

Hello Everyone I'm new to the Spyder world and just picked up a used 2012 RS SE5. I also ride two wheeled motorcycles and the Spyder is great but is taking me a bit to get used to. Over the weekend I took two rides on two separate days. The first was on Saturday where I rode up a road with some slight twist and turns but mostly it was cruising fairly straight lines around 65 miles per hour and didn't notice anything weird. Then Sunday I decided to take it on a road that I usually ride my V-Rod on that has a lot of tight twists and turns and my max speed rarely goes above 40 MPH. On this second ride I noticed that the Spyder seemed much more difficult to turn. It's like it wanted to keep going straight and I had to muscle it into the tight turns. After doing some research on this site I learned about the DPS system that is supposed to help you in turns. I don't have any warning lights stating there is a problem but is there a way to test the DPS to see if it is working properly? If I sit idle and try and turn the handlebars and start the engine and try and turn the handlebars while not moving will I notice a difference? Thanks in advance for the help.

That's a question Ive been wondering myself.I have noticed that on a twisty road like the Tail of the Dragon my arms get a real workout.When I turn the bars with the motor off its hard but when the motor is on and Im not moving its not much easier,maybe a little.I did read that for 2018 they've been programmed for more assist and I wonder if maybe theyres a reflash for 2017 rt.

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Originally Posted by Macguy

If I sit idle and try and turn the handlebars and start the engine and try and turn the handlebars while not moving will I notice a difference? Thanks in advance for the help.

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Exactly. The DPS systems were redesigned in recent model years. In a 2012 system, the amount of assist DECREASES as speed INCREASES. So, while sitting in your garage with the motor off, turn the handlebars fully back and forth until you get the feel for the effort, then start the motor and do the same thing. As long as you're not sitting on sandpaper-like 50 year old asphalt, you should feel a noticeable reduction in the steering force needed. When out riding, also keep in mind that proper front tire air pressure and the road surface plays a role in how much assist you feel.

The 2012 era systems also reduce the assist - by design - if battery system voltage decreases. It's an electrical system that can draw 20 - 30 amps when working hard. So having a good battery and regular maintenance to keep battery connections clean and tight is a must.

Bottom line though, it's not like your car and wasn't ever meant to be. On the Dragon, or any road like that, your arms will get a workout.

Some things to consider ….. Spyders weigh more than most Mtc's. especially the RT type. Spyders have much wider tires than Mtc's , and even more important - the amount of tire that actually contacts the road surface. Personally I'm glad that it isn't easy to steer, especially at speed. Spyders tend to be a bit " twitchy " until it's characteristics are learned, I think this is a safety factor designed in by the engineers. My understanding of the Spyder concept, is in the designing phase, Bosche had some real problems with getting the Steering System to function in a manner that would not make it so easy, it would tend to over-steer and Trigger the VSS system. But not so hard, that it would actually difficult and very tiresome. I think if it isn't working it would be very very difficult to turn / steer even as you increased speed. Your explanation seems to eliminate that as being the case ….. Mike :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder

... So, while sitting in your garage with the motor off, turn the handlebars fully back and forth until you get the feel for the effort, then start the motor and do the same thing. As long as you're not sitting on sandpaper-like 50 year old asphalt, you should feel a noticeable reduction in the steering force needed.

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There is an easier way. Sit on your Spyder and put a medium amount of force on the handlebars. Just short of moving the wheels. Then, while still applying the same amount of force, start your Spyder. If the DPS is working the handlebars should now move whereas they did not before the DPS kicked in.

I agree that there was not enough assist dialed into the earlier Spyders. They will give you a workout on a road like the Dragon. I have not ridden a 2018 so I don't know if the increased assist is now adequate. But I can agree that the DPS takes a lot of juice to operate. On a road like the Dragon your electrical system needs to be in good shape to handle the load.

I have the same model with the exception of it being manual. As mentioned above it will decrease as the speed increases to keep from oversteering to easily. I do ryde aggresively and mostly in the mountains and well orver the posted cornering speeds and it does get heavy but then the nanny kicks in and takes a bit of the fun out of the ryde. Have found ways to fool the nanny but only with the manual....try the above and let us know....:thumbup:

Thanks all, I will give all the suggestions here a try to tonight when I get home from work and post my finding.

All good advice above. You could also parking lot test your unit to see how the DPS kicks in. If the "nanny" kicks in on tight turns, your system is working. :yes:

OK so i tried turning the wheels while the engine was off then once again while it was on and thought I could feel a bit of a difference. Then I left it running and turned the wheels side to side then shut of the engine while still turning the wheels side to side and I could definitely feel the DPS shutting down and it was much more difficult so it looks like it is all working as it should. Thank you for the suggestions everyone.

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Originally Posted by BajaRon

There is an easier way. Sit on your Spyder and put a medium amount of force on the handlebars. Just short of moving the wheels. Then, while still applying the same amount of force, start your Spyder. If the DPS is working the handlebars should now move whereas they did not before the DPS kicked in.

I agree that there was not enough assist dialed into the earlier Spyders. They will give you a workout on a road like the Dragon. I have not ridden a 2018 so I don't know if the increased assist is now adequate. But I can agree that the DPS takes a lot of juice to operate. On a road like the Dragon your electrical system needs to be in good shape to handle the load.

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I tried this with my 2014 RT and discovered there is no difference in the steering effort between running and not. Makes no sense. Wouldn't there be a fault if the dps isn't working?

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Originally Posted by UtahPete

I tried this with my 2014 RT and discovered there is no difference in the steering effort between running and not. Makes no sense. Wouldn't there be a fault if the dps isn't working?

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Doesn't the DPS run off the same motor as the windshield up / down adjuster? If my windshield motor is working fine, shouldn't the DPS also?

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Originally Posted by UtahPete

Doesn't the DPS run off the same motor as the windshield up / down adjuster? If my windshield motor is working fine, shouldn't the DPS also?

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Hey Pete. That would be the Parking Brake motor, not DPS, that is controlled by the same electronic module as the windshield motor. You'll find the fuse for your DPS motor in the left fuse box - 40A. You can check that if you want, but I would suspect a fault would be generated if that was a problem. I like Macguy's second method the best - start with your Spyder's engine running and turn the handlebars back and forth. Then while turning them, hit the kill switch. You should feel an abrupt increase in effort. But again, the surface matters in how obvious the change will be. A finished concrete garage floor would make it easier to feel rather than asphalt. And if you come away thinking that it's not working, the first order of business would be battery connection cleaning.

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Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder

Hey Pete. That would be the Parking Brake motor, not DPS, that is controlled by the same electronic module as the windshield motor. You'll find the fuse for your DPS motor in the left fuse box - 40A. You can check that if you want, but I would suspect a fault would be generated if that was a problem. I like Macguy's second method the best - start with your Spyder's engine running and turn the handlebars back and forth. Then while turning them, hit the kill switch. You should feel an abrupt increase in effort. But again, the surface matters in how obvious the change will be. A finished concrete garage floor would make it easier to feel rather than asphalt. And if you come away thinking that it's not working, the first order of business would be battery connection cleaning.

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Thanks for clarifying that for me. I tried the method you suggest and I didn't notice any difference in steering effort between running and not. I guess the next thing I should do is check the fuse and then the battery connections.

I still don't understand why I'm not seeing a fault code, though, if the DPS is malfunctioning for whatever reason.

Are both Spyders doing the same thing?

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Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder

Are both Spyders doing the same thing?

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Good question. I'll check them both and post the results.

I have found DPS would not react unless the Spyder is rolling...eg; with the engine running and the park break off roll the Spyder forward or back (only a little) I find the steering will turn with very little effort (DPS doing it's job)....
This has been the case with my old 08.GS ... 14.STS ... and now my 17. F3s Daytona....
I believe the DPS is intended to assist with slow speed manoeuvres (such as parking ect)
I don't think the DPS was intended to be used whilst stationery, as this would put undue stress on the steering components...

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Originally Posted by Ccol

I have found DPS would not react unless the Spyder is rolling. I believe the DPS is intended to assist with slow speed manoeuvres (such as parking ect) I don't think the DPS was intended to be used whilst stationery, as this would put undue stress on the steering components...

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That appeals to my logical mind. Thanks.

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Originally Posted by Ccol

I have found DPS would not react unless the Spyder is rolling...eg; with the engine running and the park break off roll the Spyder forward or back (only a little) I find the steering will turn with very little effort (DPS doing it's job)....
This has been the case with my old 08.GS ... 14.STS ... and now my 17. F3s Daytona....
I believe the DPS is intended to assist with slow speed manoeuvres (such as parking ect)
I don't think the DPS was intended to be used whilst stationery, as this would put undue stress on the steering components...

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You are correct.

Well, Pete, I am sorry if I caused you any undue frustration. I have a Spyder in my garage, that definitively proves to me every day, that DPS works wonderfully when you're not moving at all. That's when you need it the most. I don't recall seeing any information, over the years, that indicates that the 2012 is any different than other model years (except for 2018) or different than Spyders shipped to Australia. But, I don't have a whole library of shop manuals, either. It's possible....or maybe mine is just special. (kidding) The explanation out of my manual doesn't address standing still, but it does address how the level of assist varies with speed.

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Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder

Well, Pete, I am sorry if I caused you any undue frustration. I have a Spyder in my garage, that definitively proves to me every day, that DPS works wonderfully when you're not moving at all. That's when you need it the most. I don't recall seeing any information, over the years, that indicates that the 2012 is any different than other model years (except for 2018) or different than Spyders shipped to Australia. But, I don't have a whole library of shop manuals, either. It's possible....or maybe mine is just special. (kidding) The explanation out of my manual doesn't address standing still, but it does address how the level of assist varies with speed.

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You haven't caused me any frustration at all. I appreciate the input. I intend to test both Spyders standing still to see if they both feel the same. If they do, it's a pretty good indication they have both failed (without any faults displayed), or the DPS indeed does not kick in at standstill.

Either way, it's a learning experience and I appreciate your input.

Hi Dave here
Glad you found out that your DPS is working, Mine went south last April, I got a scrolling message on the dash
saying DPS Failure it was like steering a power steering car with the belt missing that runs the power steering pump
hard to steer. but no limp mode, off to the dealer $1500.00 later it is just fine but I thought the repair cost was borderline
theft. BRP was no help as my Spyder is a 2008 GS, it had 19K at the time. Now it has about 6K more and is trouble free.
I am also a rider of 2 wheels and have been for many many years and I can tell you a motorcycle in the twisties is much easier
to ride in windy hilly roads at much higher speeds but I figure if I slow down and enjoy the view more the steering on the Spyder
is just fine....

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Originally Posted by Macguy

Hello Everyone I'm new to the Spyder world and just picked up a used 2012 RS SE5. I also ride two wheeled motorcycles and the Spyder is great but is taking me a bit to get used to. Over the weekend I took two rides on two separate days. The first was on Saturday where I rode up a road with some slight twist and turns but mostly it was cruising fairly straight lines around 65 miles per hour and didn't notice anything weird. Then Sunday I decided to take it on a road that I usually ride my V-Rod on that has a lot of tight twists and turns and my max speed rarely goes above 40 MPH. On this second ride I noticed that the Spyder seemed much more difficult to turn. It's like it wanted to keep going straight and I had to muscle it into the tight turns. After doing some research on this site I learned about the DPS system that is supposed to help you in turns. I don't have any warning lights stating there is a problem but is there a way to test the DPS to see if it is working properly? If I sit idle and try and turn the handlebars and start the engine and try and turn the handlebars while not moving will I notice a difference? Thanks in advance for the help.

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