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BajaRon installed his new anti-sway bar on my 2011 RS-S and No more hard leaning in the turns, No more getting pushed around when passing a large trucks on the highway, and it makes my Spyder easyer to ride over all. Instead of spending $800.00 to $1,300.00 for shocks the BajaRon anti-sway bar is under $200.00 and it works.
Mike
:congrats:
Now the rest of us are waiting for his RT offering... :bbq::bbq:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Bob
If the RT works as good as mine you will very happy. He puts a lot of time into R & D and comes up with great product. It does not stop the nanny from doing it's job, if you push it into a hard corner to fast the nanny will slow you down keeping all three tires on the ground.
Mike
It is amazing what a good Sway Bar will do. People ask me all the time, 'What will I get if I put your Sway Bar on my Spyder?'. It is hard to really give a true picture of what happens to your Spyder when you install one of these sway bars. Fortunatly, or unfortunately, you really have to ride it to get the full effect.
We can talk all day about flatter cornering, keeping both front wheels firmly on the pavement, better control and feel in a turn, etc. But all of this is intellectual data. I see people walk away scratching their head, maybe discussing it with their passenger or friend, not really sure whether or not the sway bar is something they would appreciate.
Yet, when an owner installs a sway bar and rides it down some twisties or in strong cross winds or passes a few semi's at freeways speed, they come back with this huge smile and it's such a great feeling because I can see on their face that they now know exactly what that sway bar is doing.
The funny thing to watch is how they then struggle to accurately describe to others, the very things that had them scratching their head before the install.
Sales are fine and I will admit I love developing and selling product. But customer satisfaction is something that you just can't put a value on. That satisfied look is priceless! :ohyea::ohyea:
We're all just trying to figure out how we're going to explain what's going to happen, to the Missus! :shocked: :roflblack: :thumbup:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaRon
How difficult is the install?
Not a bad job. Remove trunk, disconnect wires, disconnect cable for trunk lid and four bolts to remove the trunk. Then remove old anti-sway bar, install new one and making sure the new one is centered to the frame. BajaRon did mine at Lamonster BBQ, I help him do it. It's the best mod that I did to my 2011 Spyder RS-S SE5. It's makes it easier to ride on winding roads and on the highway. To bad your are not closer to my house, so you could test ride mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by major911
Mike
With a 2011 RT and Elka shocks, will I feel a difference with the new sway bar?Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaRon
When I installed Ron's sway bar on my RS, I noticed the improvement in the handling on the FIRST corner. I went through the 90 degree corner at the light 1/4 mile from home and was instantly aware of how much more responsive the bike was.
An RT with Elka's will see some improvement particularly in extreme curves, swerving, and at faster speeds, but likely not as effective as on an RS. I have been using an Evo swaybar on my RT and the benefit is minor because that bar is the same size as the oem bar.Quote:
Originally Posted by brodyson
The new RT swaybars such as the Aussie and BajaRon's bar have increased bar size and should be significantly more effective.
:popcorn:
Many people have fitted these without removing the trunk completely. If you have some ramps so you can work under the Spyder you can remove the lower bolts and lever the trunk up enough to install (I am told - I have a GS)Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeinGA
I just purchased the sway bar last friday and it got here monday! wednesday night and i've got everything but the skid plate back on. i can't wait to give it try tomorrow! first time taking off the frunk was a little scary but i've had worse. i will definitely start a thread tomorrow to let everyone know how it goes.
:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:Quote:
Originally Posted by serf
I only got to take it out for gas but it was a lot more solid in the round a bout and corners I hit. I will definitely give a bit more of a review tomorrow when I take it to work with me and hit the country afterwards.Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaRon
As far as install it took me about four times longer to get the trunk and old bar off than to put the new bar and frunk back on. I have never taken my spyder apart before so I was a bit nervous... that being said it was pretty simple and at times an illustration might have helped but it wasn't that bad. Did give me an excuse to buy new tools :ohyea:
I'm thinking I'll wait for the next event and have Ron install mine...:yikes:Quote:
Originally Posted by serf
I would definitely recommend Ron's anti sway bar to anyone. After a four hour drive out in the country the spyder stayed flat in the twisties and improved control. If you are looking at improving the handling in the turned and are on the fence between a bar or shocks...the bar definitely works with at a fraction of the price of high end shocks. I really can't believe the difference the bar has made.
The install wasn't to bad. Just take your time and read through the instructions before you start. Having the right tools makes a huge difference. A professional grade ratchet and sockets really helps.
This was typed on my phone so some errors are likely.
Yes, I installed my Evo bar this way. Easy. Didn't bother with a ramp either.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrb
agree with martin when i installed mine all i did was put on trolley jack and undid a couple of bolts put a wedge in and presto old one out and new one in opps also i forgot what size are the bars thickness i mean cheersQuote:
Originally Posted by mrb
We didn't have to take the trunk off to put the sway bar on Cindi's RS...Learned that the first time when we put the EVO swaybar on mine...Ron...Nice product by the way.
+1 No need to remove the trunk. nojokeQuote:
Originally Posted by Neez
For me, I looked it over carefully and found removing the trunk to be the easiest way to go about the project. :2thumbs:
No jacking or lifting necessary. Interestingly enough, I discovered one of the two lower frunk mounting bolts was missing. :yikes:
Major props to Baja Ron for a quality product!!!! :yes:
I have my stock shocks set at 5 for handling but it makes for a very bumpy ride. Would adding the sway bar allow me to back the shocks off to 4 and still have the stability but with a little softer ride?Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeinGA
Just took the plunge and placed my order. Figured this many riders can't be wrong. Fingers crossed
With the sway bar installed you should be able to drop your shock springs down 1 or 2 notches and recover a smoother ride. It will also return the suspension to the proper ride height.Quote:
Originally Posted by major911
You need to just get one of his swaybars, they are great , so easy to instill on a RT , my wife could do it. REALLY.Only 6 body screws,and 6 bolts on the swaybay,And wow what a safer ride ,no being tossed around by the wind ,big trucks, ect, like going from a suv to a porsche,now think about that, sometimes it felt very top heave in the corners, but now its like a porsche on rails,im sure if you dont like the way it rides after installed , on of the RT owners will buy it from you in heart beat.Ride on ron
I ride mostly two up so I left the setting at 5. All I can say try setting 4, but before doing that find a road with some hard turns and run it at 5. Then set your shocks to 4 and rerun the same section of road. I hope this helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by major911
Mike
I installed mine in under an hour removing the frunk. I find it more comfortable to work better for centering and a good chance to grease the front end.
Removing the Frunk on an RS isn't all that difficult and really does afford an easier access to both the sway bar install and greasing the A-Arms. It looks much more intimidating that it really is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chupaca
Wish there was a nice how to video in the DYI forum for installing this anti sway bar without removing the trunk or at least a video of how to remove the trunk. :sour:Quote:
Originally Posted by sabunim5
Ron can we get the new sway bar for the RSS in red now?
Ron, can you explain the difference between your bar and the stock bar? What is it about yours that makes such a huge difference in the handling?Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaRon
Will the BajaRon sway bar help the 2013 rss spyder turn better or leave it alone?;)
The sway bar will create a bigger improvement than the shocks did.Quote:
Originally Posted by brodyson
GET IT---YOU WILL NOT REGRET ITQuote:
Originally Posted by ssmcclub
ok thankyou;););)Quote:
Originally Posted by frenchek
Wow! Not sure how I missed this post but they say; 'Better late than never!'. (Not sure that's always true)Quote:
Originally Posted by major911
The sway bar is simply a spring. Springs come in all different shapes and sizes, depending on the purpose. In my opinion, the stock sway bar is way too weak. It simply cannot handle the forces imposed on it.
There are several ways to make a sway bar stronger. Size, dimensions and steel compound are the major factors.
For normal driving, optimum handling means all 3 tires will lose traction at the same time. To get this you'd need to push your Spyder to the extreme limit which very few will ever do. But equal traction (front to back) in turns gives you maximum performance whether or not you ever brake a wheel loose. I know it sounds scary to have all 3 wheels brake loose at the same time but it really is a very mild, expected and controllable event. Your not really going from 100% traction to Zero. You don't go spinning off into oblivion. You simply begin to fade to the outside of the curve. This will usually occur at apex so you've got a lot of pavement to play with and just backing off on the power slightly brings everything back.
Like I said, very few will ever encounter this and if you do, you're most likely looking for it to begin with.
If the sway bar is too weak the front wheels lose traction first and 'Wash Out'. This happens much sooner than the 1st scenario given above. If the sway bar is too stiff, the rear wheel loses traction first causing the rear end to 'Kick-Out'.
Generally, the safest of all is for the front wheels to lose traction first which causes the rider to slow down to maintain control. However, there is some overall stability and rider control sacrificed, so you have to decide which way you want to go.
For the average driver, the worst situation is for the rear wheel to kick out which requires quick and correct reaction to maintain control. Though for a skilled driver in a race track environment, this may be exactly what you want.
If the manufacturer's goal is to keep cornering speeds low, then you want a weak sway bar. The vehicle is safe but the feeling is somewhat vague and uncertain compared to riding with a stiffer sway bar, especially if you are trying to go fast. The rider simply adjusts to riding curves at lower speeds.
Universal feedback that I get regarding the sway bar upgrade are;
Increased control in curves, crosswinds and when riding near large trucks on the freeway
Increased overall stability
Overall, better, more accurate steering
Easier steering in curves
Increased confidence and safety
Increased stability and control in 'Evasive' maneuvers
Increases the 'Fun Factor'
The other interesting comment I get is; 'I didn't think I needed this bar because I was quite happy with the way my Spyder handled stock. But I just didn't know what I was missing. I'm very glad I installed the bar.'
Hope this answers your long overdue question...
Like they say on that radio talk show, "Major Dittos!!!"Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaRon