Downshifting questions .... good or bad practices??
Have been reading many other posts with suggestions about 'best' shifting practices to be followed. As a new owner of a 2017 F3L, I have been trying to 'learn' where my ryde feels best when slowing up. My background has been several sports cars over time, and a 250 Suzuki 'Hustler' 35 years ago, where manual downshifting and keeping revs up (moderately) was a long-standing habit. My 2017 F3L SE6 can do all the necessary downshifting by itself and, at first, I let it do its own thing. However, as I become more accustomed to it, and with my riding becoming faster as the miles progress, I seem to sense that the automatic downshifting takes place later and slower than I would instinctively do manually. The old sports car debate used to be - which do you want to wear out first: your clutch or your brakes? Aggressive down-shifters would gamble on their clutch; others just braked harder and more often.
My point with my new F3 is: left to myself, I'm inclined to approach my stops and slow-downs by twitching my left index finger and run down through the gears more so than by braking. So far, it works very smoothly, my brake pedal only comes into play very late, and by then I'm already down to 3rd or 2nd, without waiting for the computer. Usually, though, I let the computer do the final downshift to 1st. I find the computer-guided 'slows' to be rather late, and more jerky, especially that last downshift or two. Looking for experienced commentary on my technique; maybe I'll still have original brakes long after doing work on clutch or auto-shift paddle? Critical advice welcome; my feelings won't be hurt. I'm trying to learn from your experiences.
BRAKING USING ENGINE ANNNNNNNNND TRANSMISSION
:gaah:.... This will cause a STIR ... transmissions and clutches cost waaaay more than Brake pads ..... I know ,I know these parts T's & C's ... are made a lot better than they used to be ( but so are the Pads !!! ) .... This being said - do I use the T & C for engine braking ... sometimes but not often.... Racers use them Alllllllllllllllllll the time ...but they allllllllllso don't pay for Parts and Labor. Basically I see NO benefit to use them on a regular basis instead of your brakes ........ jmho & I'm sticking to it :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:............. Mike :thumbup:
Transmission failed during downshift!
Just started on a 1000 mile loop to the Skyline Dr and The Blueridge (from Ohio) and we got 300 miles into our journey and our 2015 ST Limited downshifted (automatically) on a tight uphill corner and 'popped out of gear'?? Left us totally stranded in Maryland (we thought we were in West Virginia!). BRP Roadside offered $200 for towing but towing company wanted $500 to nearest dealer 100 miles away! Display indicated that it was shifting into reverse and 1st gear, but absolutely no 'clunk' and the engine would rev to the moon (no error codes and yes, the drive belt is perfectly intact). Bought the '15 ST new and it has 6000 miles on it.
WELLLLLLL NOW THAT YOU MENTION IT
Quote:
Originally Posted by
bushrat
IF, as some seem to suggest, engine braking is essentially a bad practice, it seems to me that BOTH the auto down-shift and I are doing precisely the same thing - perhaps just at different times/rev counts. The SE6 automatically brings itself down from upper gears when the rider slows; I do exactly the same thing, only I tell it 'when', rather than waiting for the computer. The number of downshifts is the same in either case; I don't add anything to the shift-change count. There is no added wear from use. Perhaps there could be additional strain because I'm not supposedly as 'shift smart' as the computer. BUT, is the supposed strain on the engine/tranny that much different when using the power plant as a brake as opposed to when you use it to take off? That was the real essence of my question. I'm not doing 'jack rabbit' high rev rubber-burning starts; nor am I doing abrupt, jerky, high rev downshifts or over-taxing the system. I try to downshift smoothly without having the tach needle jump excitedly all over the place. I simply choose to do it slightly in advance of where the computer would. It's kind of the reverse of ignoring the built-in eco-mode up-shift system, which many seem to dislike and ignore. To me, shifting, accelerating/decelerating (without making believe I'm on a race track or chasing a medal) is half the fun of ryding; just like a winding road. And maybe just a little bit of me choosing to 'free shift' rather than be computer controlled. What goes up must come down, and if we can be smart enough to know when to gear up, can we not also be smart enough to be able to gear down? To each his own poison.
Dear Mr. Bushrat : I noticed two things .... #1, you didn't Thank or Like ...any of the answers given and they covered Everything you just stated above............. and #2. You asked for Opinions ................ So my question is - What did you expect ?????? ................... Mike :thumbup:
WELLLLLLL NOW THAT YOU MENTION IT
Quote:
Originally Posted by
asp125
On looooooong downhills, like from the top of Pikes Peak, there are signs reminding motorists to use lower gears than ride the brakes. How does the SE work at holding a gear? Does it require you to ride the brakes or do you manually force a downshift? In which case you are using engine braking and clutch.
Not Pikes Peak .... but Mt Washington in NH ..... myself and " IGETAROUND " Al Faust , did it .... He had a manual ST .. I had an SE - RT ...... I had no problems with either the trans or brakes... We had to stop and let His brakes cool off , if memory serves me ........ maybe He'll chime in ....... Mike :thumbup:
Gear Brake is your answer
Rigsby...adding a gear brake will signal cagers behind to the fact you are slowing down even before applying your brakes.