I just put a set of the 10th anniversary headlights on my 2014 RT.
Riding this morning I noticed that the low beam / hi beam shutter is moving when I hit dips in the road.
Does anyone know if the shutter can be tighten down a bit???
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I just put a set of the 10th anniversary headlights on my 2014 RT.
Riding this morning I noticed that the low beam / hi beam shutter is moving when I hit dips in the road.
Does anyone know if the shutter can be tighten down a bit???
Honestly I prefer running the high beams during the daytime. I know it may be technically illegal, but the shutter movements cause a flickering appearance which is what I believe your noticing. The flickering goes away on high beam mode. Then when it starts to get dark, I just lower the beams which don't appear to flicker at night.
Yes the flickering of the shutter is what I'd like to eliminate.
Riding in the dark is my concern as I don't want to appear that I'm flashing my "brights" to oncoming traffic.
I had this problem on my 2012 RT but no problem with my current 2014 RT with the OEM lamps...
As for riding with the hi beams on, I have LED bulbs which are quite bright and prefer not to subject oncoming drivers to them...
Two separate issues--IMO. On low beams, the shutter tends to bounce on uneven roads--giving the appearance of flashing lights.
When I had my LED's installed, the mechanic over tightened the right hand side and made that shutter stick in the "high beam" mode. Since I drive with high beams in the daylight, not an issue. No night driving here during riding season--I don't care for three AM rides. :roflblack::roflblack:
The fix for me was for them to loosen the right side. Now--back to normal. I have both high and low beams.
This is interesting .... quite awhile back , I had this same conversation with Billy Bovine .....and I'm 99.999% sure He said the Shutter is locked at Low setting AND High setting.....So there cannot be ANY bounce .....I wasn't convinced :dontknow: ..... Mike :thumbup:......................MAYBE He will chime in on this :clap:
I don't think it's locked. There's a solenoid that pulls the shutter out of the way for high beam. Otherwise there is a spring that holds it in low beam position. If bouncing is heavy enough then the bounce apparently can move the shutter against the spring pressure.
Don't know about the "locked" thing. When we had our RS and GS, spouse used to ride behind me. When low beams were on, it did appear the lights were flashing (and in a bluish color). The road was quite uneven. If the shutters are "locked," then IMO--the uneven roads are the cause of the flickering of the lights. Either way, the low beams do seem to flash. :dontknow:
I have just finished installing Lamonster LED headlights in my wife's 2018 RT. When checking the lights I noticed the shutter on the right light is not working. It may not have been earlier, I don't know. Anyway, what can be over tightened? What should I check for? I hear the solenoid in the left light and not the right.
You have to stuff a bunch of wiring under the dust cap. Could I have the mechanism jammed? :helpsmilie:
:lecturef_smilie:Technically it's still a bit of debate. Minimally simple headlight is required, high beam in daylight is recommended & only illegal at & after dusk, at certain distances in front or behind another vehicle or oncoming traffic. & some states have gaps including the grassy medians where oncoming traffic is not directly effected. Point being know the laws of your State & use as basis when traveling:thumbup::clap: (disclaimer: no legal representation intended , just experience & intruction from authorities :shocked:)
What is this shutter thing and does my F3L have it?
It might not be the shutter bouncing. You must remember they are projector headlights and have a sharp light cut-off line. A lot of vehicle these days also have projector headlights and you will notice as they approach you that it looks like they are flashing their lights. But they are not. This is most likely what you are seeing.
:agree: The light has a very definitive horizontal line. When your vehicle hits a bump, that line will bounce up and down. I had the same lights on my Can Am Commander. When running off road I had to always warn anyone ahead of me that the bumps would make it look like I was flashing my lights. Just the way they are..... Jim
The headlight bulb has one filament. So, there is no bright and dim filament. Just a one filament bulb in one light fixture. To get the low and high beam effect, the light assembly has a metal "eye lid" which is held down by a spring to cover half of the bulb projector for low beam. If you activate the high beam, a solenoid pulls the eye lid up for high beam.
It is my understanding that all US Spyders use this system. Probably made for BRP by Valeo Sylvania.
The general consensus here is that I have jammed the mechanism when I installed aftermarket LED bulbs from Lamonster. Lots of additional wiring to stuff in with the modification. Very likely the problem I'm having.
Low's on my 18 rtlt appear to bounce up and down like a horny jack rabbit. Hate em!
Firstly, I'm down under in Australia, I recently purchased my first Spyder being a 2014 SE6 RT. On any of the Spyders here there is no Fog lamp switch, and I've noticed that when running "down here at least" our low beam is always on, our low beams are actually the lower pair of lights which as stated in previous posts have a very destinct cut off line. If I switch to high beam, the low beams are switched off and the upper pair of lights come on. I have no idea if our lights here have a shutter which moves or not. I love the spread of the low beams, but high beam doesnt have as good a spread and is more like a spot. I would love when switching on high beam for the low beam to stay on as well. I havent attempted yet but when I replace my current bulbs with LED's I've ordered am going to find the wires which powers the low and high respectivly and bridge with a diode from the high beam wire to the low so that when I switch on high beam the low stays on but when on low beam the diode will prevent high beam from energizing, I have done this diode trick on other bikes i've owned in the past and it certainly made night riding better with much more light to see with. I've also have noticed the little spots where parker lights would be are empty so thinking while I have the housings out see if I can rig up parker lights. I'm hoping that the more experienced here can throw any suggestions or advice my way. Attached picture shows the empty spots where I assume parker lights would be.
Many thanks in advance
Marc
Marc, our Australian Spyders don't have the shutter arrangement that North American Spyders do, but rather have the lo-beam lights where their fog lights are; and our Hi-beams are single filament globes in the large upper light housings, as you've already noticed. If you want to keep all four lights on with high beam, check out Pogo's 4-Eyes light conversion on OzSpyderRyders.com :thumbup:
Cheers mate, will check it out, but was hoping the diode idea may work without tripping the CANBUS