Radiator Plug

Doing a coolant flush and change on my V-Twin RS. The drain plug on the radiator seemed overly tight when I loosened it to drain the coolant. Reinstalled finger tight and then 1/4 turn with a ratchet. Filled with coolant and had a small leak. Torqued plug to spec with torque wrench. Still had small leak. Decided to remove plug and change the rubber o-ring. When loosening the plug the small leak instantly became a large leak. The area where the drain plug threads mounts into the body of the radiator cracked.

As far as I know they coolant hasn't ever been changed and the drain plug was factory applied.

Ordered a new radiator and prayed it was not on back order. Good news is its not :)

Makes me wonder if this is a common issue with the Spyder? Anybody here of this before?

I'm not an ace mechanic, I'm a pretty good parts changer and I've done maintenance type work on many an automotive type vehicle and have never seen an issue like this.

this is a not uncommon problem that I was alerted to by my dealer. If you can remove your currant radiator,take it down to a radiator shop and have the plug soldered in. The taps are just a press fit and when you try to unscrew the plug it disturbs the press fit and leaks.Worst case it comes out. Have the radiator shop solder in the tap and you'll not have any more problems.

That makes me feel better. I was pretty sure I hadn't done anything incorrectly. Too late to solder the old one since the new one is already shipped. Wonder if I should have the new one soldered before I install it for piece of mind?

Almost since day one, this is been a problem. The way to drain the radiator, is to remove the bottom hose.
Never try to loosen the drain plug.

Has been a problem with the early models and most were recommeded to drain the radiator from the lower hose. Haven't heard of anyone here having the issue for some time. :gaah:

I took mine in for that service and the dealer told me they don't even try any more to remove the plug but always remove the bottom hose.Mine is a 2012.

I'm changing the plugs and wires next with Baja Ron stuff. Anything I should know about removing the plugs that's a common issue? I've watched several videos on it. Airbox is out, plug wires are off. Typically I would remove old plugs, apply paste, screw in finger tight, 1/4 turn with ratchet, done. Will it be that simple on the Spyder? Just wondering after the coolant issue.

New radiator is one thing. New cylinder is quite another :)

there is no issue with the coolant you just need to change it every so often. I don't remember the interval now but it is in you owner's manual

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Originally Posted by pegasus1300

there is no issue with the coolant you just need to change it every so often. I don't remember the interval now but it is in you owner's manual

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Right, the issue is with the hardware.....radiator drain plug. I like to adhere to the maintenance schedule. That's why I'm doing all these things. Proper maintenance is my attempt to avoid brake downs and costly repairs. So far that hasn't worked. 2 days ago I had a perfectly rideable bike. Today I have a broken radiator and it cost $300 to replace it. Simply because I loosened the drain plug. :)

Just want to make sure I don't have to dig deeper into the pockets before this maintenance cycle is over.

Thanks for your help by the way.

I didn't want to deal with the factory air box again so I removed the whole thing and replaced it with JT's air filter kit.Much easier reassembly. I also put the muffler on the airbox and it is almost as quiet as the stock.

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Originally Posted by Rob Rodriguez

I'm changing the plugs and wires next with Baja Ron stuff. Anything I should know about removing the plugs that's a common issue? I've watched several videos on it. Airbox is out, plug wires are off. Typically I would remove old plugs, apply paste, screw in finger tight, 1/4 turn with ratchet, done. Will it be that simple on the Spyder? Just wondering after the coolant issue.

New radiator is one thing. New cylinder is quite another :)

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The apply paste, you mean anti-seize?:lecturef_smilie: Ron has informed us no to on the newer iridium plugs they do not get as hot & the anti-seize will act as a insulatior. The plug grease between plug & wire is ok, not on the threads of plug to engine. :thumbup:

That at may just be the 1330? Ask Ron to be sure!
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Model-Spyders

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Originally Posted by Bfromla

The apply paste, you mean anti-seize?:lecturef_smilie: Ron has informed us no to on the newer iridium plugs they do not get as hot & the anti-seize will act as a insulatior. The plug grease between plug & wire is ok, not on the threads of plug to engine. :thumbup:

That at may just be the 1330? Ask Ron to be sure!
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Model-Spyders

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He provides thermal paste in the kit. That's different than never seize. He recommends the paste. the 1330 has no plugs.

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Originally Posted by Rob Rodriguez

He provides thermal paste in the kit. That's different than never seize. He recommends the paste. the 1330 has no plugs.

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You mean wires.

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Originally Posted by Highwayman2013

You mean wires.

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Sorry, my bad.

The first diesel Spyder.

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Originally Posted by oldgoat

The first diesel Spyder.

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Now I would go for that! :thumbup:

Diesel with a Turbo!