Lil worried

So FYI day after Christmas I dropped my spyder off @ dealer to find small oil drip Ive been seeing. (Really small, just drips & not much extra oil usage)report on bike so far:Both valve covers and the intake boot has a crack :yikes: :hun::dontknow:
very well should be warranty by all means, all engine wrk done by same tech @ dealer on record & on time. Only @40,727 m with extended warranty till 2019
My ryding style is very laid back & NO rush, comfortable & way I enjoy it. So my question is what else would do this? I did have a coolant leak
back in 16 found to be a bad hose clamp @ thermostat. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...89-Hose-clamps
Was fixed on warranty & been fine till now. This may put a damper on next season :chill: anyone with similar problems please share advice. Thanks in advance :2thumbs:

Poor or damaged gasket? I had a valve check service done (my last on 998's). The tech did not replace the gasket. It developed a leak. Dealer had to re do the job in the spring--on their dime. :thumbup:

I do not see a crack , ( not that I am sitting right above the engine ) but it does look like the hard gasket is either broken , chipped , or the housing is loose ( loose I mean , not tightened enough to hold back head pressure ) did the dealer , give you the cracked valves or part idea ? from your photos , the engine looks solid.... just my thinking

Yep looks like a leak. Get it done as soon as you can, the new riding season is in a few months. See if the Dealer will come and pick up the Spyder to repair.

The valve cover gaskets went on my 2013 RTL. Dealer said BRP would not cover it. I called BRP, got a case number, called the dealer back, gave them the case number & presto, new valve cover gaskets. The old gaskets were super hard and would just crumble in your hand. It was eventually decided that this was related to the recurring heat issues with the 2013 RT's.

Been there and done that. Dealers sometimes DO NOT like to deal with Father BRP. My thought is ALWAYS ASK and then Push the issue. Sometimes it PAYS OFF. :pray::pray::pray::pray: :pray::pray:Little Blue

Not sure it pertains to this but BRP has had a lot of issues with intake boots (intake boots being the ones that hold the carb or throttle body to the engine) failing on their Ski-Doo snowmobiles. Not sure its entirely BRP's fault but.......ethanol in fuel is being blamed for eating the boot material from the inside out. Owners don't realize they have an issue until the boot has completely failed.

Many variables in these cases. Mostly the temp changes and ryding styles. Fuel and additives on the boots. If you get no help would be a good time to check valves and replace the valve cover gaskets $12.99 ea. and easy enough to do the boots at the same time $30.99 ea. (cheapcycleparts.com). Those valve cover gaskets are reusable on engines that have regular adjustments but I always changed them on engines with longer intervals cause they would usually fail shortly after. Worth checking with BRP :thumbup:

:clap:THX everyone :2thumbs: FYI the pics were from my tech at the dealer, nojoke not getting any fuss from dealer, they have always been understanding & helpful :firstplace: that's Bradford Marine Texarkana by the way. Today we had few phone conversations, & a paperwork search confirming the status of extended warranty, looking lil better for now. I don't dare say much else (& jinx it) till I do know more. Least I do have spare two wheels to appease my need, & it's close to 50k miles on it so maybe It will round off just at right time for its service. :ohyea:

The other debate: Stay with the blended oil or go ahead & step up to full synthetic?:dontknow:

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Originally Posted by Bfromla

:clap:THX everyone :2thumbs: FYI the pics were from my tech at the dealer, nojoke not getting any fuss from dealer, they have always been understanding & helpful :firstplace: that's Bradford Marine Texarkana by the way. Today we had few phone conversations, & a paperwork search confirming the status of extended warranty, looking lil better for now. I don't dare say much else (& jinx it) till I do know more. Least I do have spare two wheels to appease my need, & it's close to 50k miles on it so maybe It will round off just at right time for its service. :ohyea:

The other debate: Stay with the blended oil or go ahead & step up to full synthetic?:dontknow:

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If you are talking about the Blended oil BRP sells, pricewise my Valvoline full syn " 4 T-stroke " in 10/40 is actually way cheaper .......... and performance wise about 3x's better quality ....there is no Blended oil that can match Full Syn no matter what brand ........ Mike :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911

If you are talking about the Blended oil BRP sells, pricewise my Valvoline full syn " 4 T-stroke " in 10/40 is actually way cheaper .......... and performance wise about 3x's better quality ....there is no Blended oil that can match Full Syn no matter what brand ........ Mike :thumbup:

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I agree. We typically offer a full synthetic oil change for MUCH less than the dealer charges for low quality XPS blended oil change. I also think the K&N/HiFlo filters are far better made and filter better than the rotax filters. The condition of the 'used' filters that come out are vastly different.

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Originally Posted by oldguyinCT

The valve cover gaskets went on my 2013 RTL. Dealer said BRP would not cover it. I called BRP, got a case number, called the dealer back, gave them the case number & presto, new valve cover gaskets. The old gaskets were super hard and would just crumble in your hand. It was eventually decided that this was related to the recurring heat issues with the 2013 RT's.

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And very well may be what is happening to mine too. :dontknow: Talked with dealer today trying to get idea of what caused problem so I could avoid in future. Ended up confusing a tech that said it looked like high mileage. I quickly stopped him there because it's under 50k miles. Like I stated I did have a coolant leak a year ago, & was fixed rather quickly after it showed. I do get more miles per year than most at the moment but even then I don't abuse it :shocked: .
so for now the update is :
In process, not bad considering the holiday interruption. I'm feeling less worried anyway & hope to have solid positive report to share soon enough :thumbup:

Yikes! I noticed a oil leak under my spyder and need to check it out as well.:yikes:

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Originally Posted by AY4B

Yikes! I noticed a oil leak under my spyder and need to check it out as well.:yikes:

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:thumbup::lecturef_smilie: FYI mine was very small stayed as drips from what I could see on floor
i missed it for an unknown time frame & when I did see first drips I laid down some cardboard this was lil over a weeks worth of daily rotating it around to see fresh drips & location. I barely had much change in the monthly consumption in what the 998 eats. My tech said the underside was quite nasty however. :shocked:

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Originally Posted by Bfromla

:thumbup::lecturef_smilie: FYI mine was very small stayed as drips from what I could see on floor
i missed it for an unknown time frame & when I did see first drips I laid down some cardboard this was lil over a weeks worth of daily rotating it around to see fresh drips & location. I barely had much change in the monthly consumption in what the 998 eats. My tech said the underside was quite nasty however. :shocked:

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I use Gold plugs with crush washers. I wonder if they were not torqued enough last time I did an oil change. Ill have to get a closer look on the next change. The oil filter covers may also be the culprit.

THANKS again everyone :cheers::clap: & FYI update: :doorag::yes::yes::yes: spyder fixed ,the parts had developed dry rot (possibly from ethanol?:dontknow:) & were all replaced under extended warranty.
I just got home with it ,they even gave it a bath :ohyea: New battery coming up nxt.

Thanks for the final update. Glad it was resolved for you.

I had a 1969 Norton Commando, bought it new in 1970. The only oil leak was from the primary chain case. It wasn't until I became a Norton dealer that I found out that on the early Commandos they had made the hole the mounting stud screwed into too shallow. Since it stuck out too far you could not get the cap nut tight enough to seal the case. I went out to mine and drilled the hole about a quarter inch deeper,threaded it and presto no more leak.