Belt alignment

I have viewed lots of videos on belt alignment ,and no one mentions looking for clearance for the belt on the front pulley. I get a burnt belt smell ,and the belt is tight to the front left flange .I cannot move the belt over as the rear pulley has 2mm clearance on the right flange .The owners manual says belt should never be against a front flange .To me the motor has to go to the left,or the rear wheel has to go to the right .
The bike is a 2018 RTL with close to 10000 km,and has been to the dealer several times for belt related problems .:banghead:

I would agree that something is out of whack. Have you opened a case with BRP?

As you likely know from reading your owners guide, the 2018 per the manual, the belt is not allowed to touch either front flange. Not sure where the 2mm you mention came from.

On the 2014 RT series, the owners guide allowed the belt to contact one pulley flange, but required a bit of math and measuring to validate the belt tracking position. With little effort, I was able to get our 2014 belt to track essentially on the center of the front pulley and have no belt rub on the rear pulley flange.

Either your shop is not accomplishing the task correctly, possibly your engine is not aligned properly, or if you installed a tensione, maybe the tensior is guiding the belt into poor alignment.

If it matters, no tensioning device on our 2014 and runs the lower belt tension per the TSB to avoid vibrations.

Papanorm is in the bulls-eye. Have your dealer open a case with BRP. Should they give you gas about doing so, contact BRP Care yourself at brp.care@brp.com, explain the situation and ask them to open a case for you.

When I brought my F3 down to 125 on the cricket vibration went away and its exactly in the center of the front sprocket and against the right side in the rear. Center on the front sprocket means even pressure on the shaft.

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Originally Posted by papanorm

I would agree that something is out of whack. Have you opened a case with BRP?

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Yes i have a open case file.

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Originally Posted by PMK

As you likely know from reading your owners guide, the 2018 per the manual, the belt is not allowed to touch either front flange. Not sure where the 2mm you mention came from.

On the 2014 RT series, the owners guide allowed the belt to contact one pulley flange, but required a bit of math and measuring to validate the belt tracking position. With little effort, I was able to get our 2014 belt to track essentially on the center of the front pulley and have no belt rub on the rear pulley flange.

Either your shop is not accomplishing the task correctly, possibly your engine is not aligned properly, or if you installed a tensione, maybe the tensior is guiding the belt into poor alignment.

If it matters, no tensioning device on our 2014 and runs the lower belt tension per the TSB to avoid vibrations.

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The 2mm is the rear pulley . And i see no way to get the belt in the middle of the front pulley. The tension is 220 lbs.

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Originally Posted by stmike 1800

The 2mm is the rear pulley . And i see no way to get the belt in the middle of the front pulley. The tension is 220 lbs.

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Understand 2mm is rear pulley flange to belt. Why is it not viable to run say 3mm and move the belt inboard on the front pulley?

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Originally Posted by Sarge707

When I brought my F3 down to 125 on the cricket vibration went away and its exactly in the center of the front sprocket and against the right side in the rear. Center on the front sprocket means even pressure on the shaft.

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Where on the belt do we place the Krikit device?

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Originally Posted by cdakers

Where on the belt do we place the Krikit device?

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In the middle and there is a video showing exactly how to use it. I don't have it but you can search. You should research what tension your particular model is supposed to have - Many including the F3 have been lowered WAY down ? Again you may have to search?

First of all, your dealer has your belt tension WAY too tight. In June 2015 BRP issued a technical service tip revising the belt tensions. (TST61Y014S05) The new belt tension for RTs was set at 630N +/- 100N. That equates to 120-165 LBS. There are many dealers who either don't read or don't remember the proper belt tension. Secondly, and sadly, there are dealers who are not competent enough to be able to properly align and tension drive belts. I have first-hand experience in dealing with idiot, supposedly trained mechanics whose messes I have had to clean up. Good luck with yours. I would keep dealing with BRP to get your bike adjusted correctly either by the dealer you're doing business with or another dealer.

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Originally Posted by PMK

Understand 2mm is rear pulley flange to belt. Why is it not viable to run say 3mm and move the belt inboard on the front pulley?

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Please explain how ? If i move the rear of the belt to the left will not the front also go left ?

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Originally Posted by stmike 1800

Please explain how ? If i move the rear of the belt to the left will not the front also go left ?

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No.
You mentioned the belt is tracking against the left flange of the forward pulley. You desire to move the belt to the right. Therefore, the rear axle must be ever so slightly realigned to point the rear wheel to the right. This will slightly walk the belt left on the rear pulley and to the right on the front pulley. The adjustment will be to turn the right side adjuster clockwise and no adjustment on the left.

Currently the rear axle and countershaft are aligned with the rear wheel pointed left slightly, routing the belt to the left on the front.

I do tend to agree the tension is pretty high but that’s between you and the dealer, and the service bulletin.

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Originally Posted by PMK

No.
You mentioned the belt is tracking against the left flange of the forward pulley. You desire to move the belt to the right. Therefore, the rear axle must be ever so slightly realigned to point the rear wheel to the right. This will slightly walk the belt left on the rear pulley and to the right on the front pulley. The adjustment will be to turn the right side adjuster clockwise and no adjustment on the left.

Currently the rear axle and countershaft are aligned with the rear wheel pointed left slightly, routing the belt to the left on the front.

I do tend to agree the tension is pretty high but that’s between you and the dealer, and the service bulletin.

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I was thinking the same thing last night .It is cold and raining here for the next while, winter is coming. First chance i get i will give it a try.
Thanks for the post .

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Originally Posted by stmike 1800

I was thinking the same thing last night .It is cold and raining here for the next while, winter is coming. First chance i get i will give it a try.
Thanks for the post .

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Consider, the belt has ever so slightly seated itself into the current track, so it may be difficult to not have it jump into a new position that is too much. May be easier to make a calculated adjustment then ride and see. Say 1/8 turn. If it needs more after say 15 miles, and you must roll to a stop going straight and forward to see accurately where it tracks, then adjust again.

Additionally, possibly the most difficult part is to ensure the axle and adjusters do not shift when the axle nut is tightened. This gives people fits.

Got the belt right were i wanted it , middle front pulley ,just off flange on the rear and 160 lbs .Now i need a long ride to make sure it stays there ,and no vibrations. Thanks guys for the help.:thumbup:

BTW this is with a new belt.

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Originally Posted by stmike 1800

Got the belt right were i wanted it , middle front pulley ,just off flange on the rear and 160 lbs .Now i need a long ride to make sure it stays there ,and no vibrations. Thanks guys for the help.:thumbup:

BTW this is with a new belt.

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I certainly like seeing the lower belt tension. We run just over 140.

Guessing you sorted out the left side tensions, the right side tracks, and found the rear pulley kind of steers the belt where you want it on the front. A bit oversimplifying it but kind of how it is.

Thank you for the update. Please let us know how it responds. I think what you did was the right thing but we need to know the results. Thanks.....

Hope to get some miles on the bike soon,but the weather does not look good .

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Originally Posted by stmike 1800

Hope to get some miles on the bike soon,but the weather does not look good .

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If it tracks well- I would go down to 130 + - as my F3 runs real good with the lower tension and less pressure on the front sprocket and bearings- They did the bulletin for a Reason?

Guys,
I am having the same problem. Belt riding on left flange. Have tried everything you guys said to do. I can not get it to move away from the left side of the front pulley. Had it to dealer and they tried to adjust it. Picked it up today and still rubbing left side of pulley. What am I doing wrong. Adjusted the right adjuster clockwise to the point the belt was half way in middle of rear sprocket. still the belt rides on the left hand flange. Now if you rotate the wheel in reverse the belt is perfect on the front pulley.. Getting frustrated. Any help would be appreciated.

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Originally Posted by Mowerman

Guys,
I am having the same problem. Belt riding on left flange. Have tried everything you guys said to do. I can not get it to move away from the left side of the front pulley. Had it to dealer and they tried to adjust it. Picked it up today and still rubbing left side of pulley. What am I doing wrong. Adjusted the right adjuster clockwise to the point the belt was half way in middle of rear sprocket. still the belt rides on the left hand flange. Now if you rotate the wheel in reverse the belt is perfect on the front pulley.. Getting frustrated. Any help would be appreciated.

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Sometimes, the belt has settled into a kind of happy worn spot. Make an adjustment based on proven technique and go ride, even if you do not have it perfect yet. Then make small tweaks if needed, and let it dial in over a bit of miles.

However, most likely, the reason you are having difficulty is the garbage adjusters on a Spyder, and how unless you have a method to tighten and torque the axle, everything moves and you never find belt nirvana.

I put the wrench on the axle nuts and give it a good rap with a dead plow hammer . You have to get no slack in the adjusters ,keep hitting the axle nut as you tighten the axle.

Winter is here to cold and wet to go for a good ride .Will be putting the spyder away till spring , time to get the sled out and make sure it is ready for the winter .

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Originally Posted by stmike 1800

I put the wrench on the axle nuts and give it a good rap with a dead plow hammer . You have to get no slack in the adjusters ,keep hitting the axle nut as you tighten the axle.

Winter is here to cold and wet to go for a good ride .Will be putting the spyder away till spring , time to get the sled out and make sure it is ready for the winter .

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Yes, the adjusters are horrible in this application. Various methods to ensure consistantly positioning the wheel. Everyone using a hammer or similar needs to consider, the adjusters themselves, buried inside the swingarm arm low cost cast aluminum and probably not strong. Therefore as you settle the axle in place, don’t attack merely position.

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Originally Posted by PMK

Yes, the adjusters are horrible in this application. Various methods to ensure consistantly positioning the wheel. Everyone using a hammer or similar needs to consider, the adjusters themselves, buried inside the swingarm arm low cost cast aluminum and probably not strong. Therefore as you settle the axle in place, don’t attack merely position.

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I use a rubber mallet to rap on the axle wrench just enough to tighten the adjusters. Usually doesn't take much. Then simi-tighten the axle and recheck adjusters to make sure they are tight. While tightening and torquing the axle, I check the adjusters a couple of times just to make sure all is OK. This works for me.....