Transmission filter 1330

Has anyone taken the trans. filter apart to see how much it is full of metal/junk ? and how far can you go over the 28K maintenance time.....

28000 is a good run
why would you want to stretch it?

....and if you can't document it was replaced and something happens, not good....

Don't know of anyone who has taken thier filter apart and there are not that many up to that mileage...you could be the first. I have gone into the fuel filter and after 40,000 miles using many brands of 91 gasoline found nothing in the filter. We have seen engine oil filter colapse and the new ones are caged in mesh but don't know if it was from debris or going too far over the suggested oil change mileage. Considering you are still using the same oil as the engine, clutch and transmission and the engine oil filter is the first to filter, that filter will probably be clean at 28,000 but for the cost (if you do it yourself) worth changing. The cost of things that could fail if that filter stops working will be a lot more. :thumbup:

We have done it once on the RT already and will need to do it again in about 8k. Here is a video if you need it. Pretty simple. You do not need BUDS to burp the system.

http://dochumphreys.wixsite.com/roadster/install

Just scroll down to the filter change....

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Originally Posted by ofdave

28000 is a good run
why would you want to stretch it?

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I intend to change it, just curious if anyone found metal in the filter. Always took filter part on aircraft engines to check for foreign matter........

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Originally Posted by Chupaca

Don't know of anyone who has taken thier filter apart and there are not that many up to that mileage...you could be the first. I have gone into the fuel filter and after 40,000 miles using many brands of 91 gasoline found nothing in the filter. We have seen engine oil filter colapse and the new ones are caged in mesh but don't know if it was from debris or going too far over the suggested oil change mileage. Considering you are still using the same oil as the engine, clutch and transmission and the engine oil filter is the first to filter, that filter will probably be clean at 28,000 but for the cost (if you do it yourself) worth changing. The cost of things that could fail if that filter stops working will be a lot more. :thumbup:

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Oil filter collapses (as far as I know) have been caused by (1) installing the filter backwards so the oil has nowhere to go (probably very rare). Or (2), the poor quality OEM filters in the 2008-Mid-Year 2012 Spyder models (not so uncommon). Again, to my knowledge, this was not an issues with clogging but rather a deodorization of the poor quality filter medium used in the early OEM filters, coupled with the fact that there was no internal reinforcing structure as is found in every other filter that I know of. This was most prevalent in filters left in place well beyond the 4,500 mile recommended service interval or well over 1 year without being serviced. But not in every case.

To my knowledge, this was only true with the OEM BRP filters from 2008-mid-year 2012. No aftermarket or post Mid-Year 2012 OEM BRP filters have suffered this fate (other than the backwards installed filters)

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Originally Posted by manxman

I intend to change it, just curious if anyone found metal in the filter. Always took filter part on aircraft engines to check for foreign matter........

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I am hoping that someone will take one of these filters apart. I do not want to destroy a new one to find out as they are too expensive for that. I get asked all the time if there is an actual filtration medium in this filter, or if it is just a wire mesh. I would like to know myself.

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Originally Posted by BajaRon

Oil filter collapses (as far as I know) have been caused by (1) installing the filter backwards so the oil has nowhere to go (probably very rare). Or (2), the poor quality OEM filters in the 2008-Mid-Year 2012 Spyder models (not so uncommon). Again, to my knowledge, this was not an issues with clogging but rather a deodorization of the poor quality filter medium used in the early OEM filters, coupled with the fact that there was no internal reinforcing structure as is found in every other filter that I know of. This was most prevalent in filters left in place well beyond the 4,500 mile recommended service interval or well over 1 year without being serviced. But not in every case.

To my knowledge, this was only true with the OEM BRP filters from 2008-mid-year 2012. No aftermarket or post Mid-Year 2012 OEM BRP filters have suffered this fate (other than the backwards installed filters)



I am hoping that someone will take one of these filters apart. I do not want to destroy a new one to find out as they are too expensive for that. I get asked all the time if there is an actual filtration medium in this filter, or if it is just a wire mesh. I would like to know myself.

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I will take mine apart and report back of any findings. In fact I must order one from you....

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Originally Posted by manxman

I will take mine apart and report back of any findings. In fact I must order one from you....

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No problem. I can ship it out to you today. I will be VERY interested in your findings. You are doing everyone a service.

Thanks! :thumbup:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/i...cons/icon1.png One reason why I like to change oil myself..

I like to change the oil myself, and have a chance to look over things as well as get the proper 5 qts oil back in after the change for the 1330 SE6.

Changed the wifes F3T a couple of weeks ago at 10,000 miles, and was pleased with how easy the access was to all of the plugs and filter. With my 15 RT I was reminded yesterday how much tupperware and the lower shields required as well as my highway pegs. Since I also was changing the HCM filter at 29,000 it gave me a chance to get everything opened up and clean out the bugs, rocks and highway debris that somehow accumulate back in the crevices. Ill make sure I have check the oil after its up to temperature to get the remaining 8-10 oz of oil to account for the HCM.

Just for my curiousity I pried apart the old HCM filter and was pleased to see a pretty robust media as well as stainless screen. Thanks to BajaRon for the filters and o-ring kits I should be good for the Fall riding season and many more seasons I hope!http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...584070&thumb=1



The mileage was at 29,481, and no there were no large metal on the stainless screen. The gray media looked dark, but I assume that was simply very fine wear particles. My oil analysis showed good oil properties with only a slight degradation to the recommended viscosity.

Thanks for the filter picture; I hope mine looked as good when it was changed on schedule about 6,100 miles ago. Since the engine and transmission share the same oil I would doubt that one would see any significant metal on the trans filter screen because the oil filter and clutch cover plug magnet probably would have caught it first. If one has switched to Gold or Dimple plugs there would be a second magnet to catch steel filings, an even better trapping situation.

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Originally Posted by Roadster Renovations

We have done it once on the RT already and will need to do it again in about 8k. Here is a video if you need it. Pretty simple. You do not need BUDS to burp the system.

http://dochumphreys.wixsite.com/roadster/install

Just scroll down to the filter change....

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Doc, Thanks for the video on changing out the HCM filter. It was a motivator to change the HCM filters and now after having changed two on the RTs , I will have to order some more from BajaRon so I can get ready for the wifes F3T.

She is coming up on 20,000 so one more oil change this Fall, and then we will change it out along with the 28,000 mile oil change next year. It looks like there is a cover over the HCM on the F3, but less tupperware to remove, so hopefully its a quick change.

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Originally Posted by AeroPilot

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/i...cons/icon1.png One reason why I like to change oil myself..

I like to change the oil myself, and have a chance to look over things as well as get the proper 5 qts oil back in after the change for the 1330 SE6.

Changed the wifes F3T a couple of weeks ago at 10,000 miles, and was pleased with how easy the access was to all of the plugs and filter. With my 15 RT I was reminded yesterday how much tupperware and the lower shields required as well as my highway pegs. Since I also was changing the HCM filter at 29,000 it gave me a chance to get everything opened up and clean out the bugs, rocks and highway debris that somehow accumulate back in the crevices. Ill make sure I have check the oil after its up to temperature to get the remaining 8-10 oz of oil to account for the HCM.

Just for my curiousity I pried apart the old HCM filter and was pleased to see a pretty robust media as well as stainless screen. Thanks to BajaRon for the filters and o-ring kits I should be good for the Fall riding season and many more seasons I hope!http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...584070&thumb=1



The mileage was at 29,481, and no there were no large metal on the stainless screen. The gray media looked dark, but I assume that was simply very fine wear particles. My oil analysis showed good oil properties with only a slight degradation to the recommended viscosity.

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Nice oil report, what oil are you using?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BajaRon

Oil filter collapses (as far as I know) have been caused by (1) installing the filter backwards so the oil has nowhere to go (probably very rare). Or (2), the poor quality OEM filters in the 2008-Mid-Year 2012 Spyder models (not so uncommon). Again, to my knowledge, this was not an issues with clogging but rather a deodorization of the poor quality filter medium used in the early OEM filters, coupled with the fact that there was no internal reinforcing structure as is found in every other filter that I know of. This was most prevalent in filters left in place well beyond the 4,500 mile recommended service interval or well over 1 year without being serviced. But not in every case.

To my knowledge, this was only true with the OEM BRP filters from 2008-mid-year 2012. No aftermarket or post Mid-Year 2012 OEM BRP filters have suffered this fate (other than the backwards installed filters)



I am hoping that someone will take one of these filters apart. I do not want to destroy a new one to find out as they are too expensive for that. I get asked all the time if there is an actual filtration medium in this filter, or if it is just a wire mesh. I would like to know myself.

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I cut mine in half as I too was curious. There is indeed a filter media in there. Flat panel. I did not find any metal shavings but it was dirty. To my untrained eye, looked like wear bits from clutch material, not metal.

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Originally Posted by Highwayman2013

Nice oil report, what oil are you using?

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Been running the Rotella T6 full synthetic on the 1300 RT and F3T. I try to change oil around the _5,000 and 10,000 interval marks... just easier to keep track of.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roadster Renovations

We have done it once on the RT already and will need to do it again in about 8k. Here is a video if you need it. Pretty simple. You do not need BUDS to burp the system.

http://dochumphreys.wixsite.com/roadster/install

Just scroll down to the filter change....

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It says video not found

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Originally Posted by jcthorne

I cut mine in half as I too was curious. There is indeed a filter media in there. Flat panel. I did not find any metal shavings but it was dirty. To my untrained eye, looked like wear bits from clutch material, not metal.

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I am glad someone has done this. Customers have asked me what is inside these 1330 trans filters. I did not want to cut a new one open to find out.

Of course the clutch is a wear item so having some material trapped in the filter is expected.

Thanks for the info!