ESI 3" and 4" Riser Install
One of the things that I always wished I could change on the Spyder was the pullback on the handlebars. BRP has a 1" riser but all that does is lift the bars strait up, and I wanted mine to raise up and pull back a bit. The other thing was I waited a long time to get my #536 Premiere Edition Spyder and i didn't want to give that up by going to a standard handlebar setup. These risers solved both issues.
I have torture tested these risers on some of the most technical roads in the country with good results. I found by having my bars up and back a bit I have more leverage in the turns and the pressure on my hands that was causing them to go numb is gone. I also have a shoulder problem that shows up right about 200 miles or so into a trip and that's now gone. All and all I'm very happy with this mod and to date I think this is the best mod I've done to my Spyder. For me it is now the perfect Sport Tourer.
About all you are going to get with the stock cables is 4" of rise and about 3" of pullback. This is above stock so remember you already have about a 2" rise now. I found that the 3" riser works best for me. I'm 5' 11" and have pretty long arms so reach is not a problem. I'm running 4" risers now for my trip to Sturgis and then San Diego so I may change my mind on what I like best after this trip. The cables are maxed out at 4" but still work fine. If you have the BRP 1" riser you will have to use the 3" riser if you want these to work.
These pics are a cross of my Spyder and Ron's Spyder. I had already cut my bars before I wrote this so I had to use Ron's Spyder to show you how to do that.
First thing you are going to do is remove the plugs in the ends of your stock bars and remove your grips. I use a screwdriver and a little Windex to get the grip off. Just work the screwdriver around while you're squirting the inside of the grip.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5424_small.JPGhttp://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5425_small.JPG
Now this is the part that can go a bunch of different ways. When Evan installed his 3" risers that had the BRP 1" riser already installed he never had to pull a panel. I'm not sure if that was because they already cut any zipties and made slack in the cables or what but on my Spyder and Ron's I had to move things around a bit.
All I can tell you from here is you may or may not have to reroute your cables to have enough free play to install these risers. I will say that it's a good idea to open it up a bit to see if there is any issues with having enough slack.
First thing I did was pull my gauges. You just pop the top out with a screwdriver.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5426_small.JPG
Next thing I did was pull the the top Y cover and the rubber boot that hides the cables.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5430_small.JPG
Now you can pull the controls off of the bars and check to see how much slack you have.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5431_small.JPGhttp://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5432_small.JPG
The left side riser will have a notch in it for the reservoir. Go ahead and slide it on the stock bar.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5434_small.JPG
At this point you can mark your bar and cut the end off. You can use a hacksaw, sawsall or whatever you like for this. I bought a little pipe cutter and it worked great. Just clean up the end with a file or grinder.
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http://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5440_small.JPG
On the left side you're going to want to run the reverse cable through the hole in the riser.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5436_small.JPGhttp://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5437_small.JPG
You will get a new bar that bolts into the riser, This bar has a slot in it to locate your control housing.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5435_small.JPG
You can install the control housing to the bar making sure the pin on the housing is located in the slot on the new bar.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5441_small.JPG
Install the bar to the riser with the bolt provided. Leave the bolt loose so you can adjust as needed.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5442_small.JPG
Here's where we switch Spyders. Install the clutch reservoir and rotate the riser where you need it and check cables for slack and reroute if need be. Once you're happy with that tighten all the screws and bolts and move on to the throttle side.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5443_small.JPG
Same process on the throttle side. Just make sure all your cables are free when in a full lock. They may be a little tight but as long as you're not stressing them too much you should be fine. The only time you'll be at a full lock in in a parking lot anyway.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5448_small.JPG
I found that the vibration on the bars is just about gone now that I have these risers and I could never see going back to stock. if you did want to go back to stock you can replace the stock bars for about $60 bucks.
Here's what they look like on my Spyder. You can order yours from www.NoMagicNeon.com
http://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5444_small.JPGhttp://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5445_small.JPG
http://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5446_small.JPGhttp://www.spyderlovers.com/risers/CIMG5447_small.JPG
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