When we went from our 2010 RT to our 2016 RT I noticed a big difference in the suspension. So, is it really worth it to go from stock shocks on the 2016 RT, to after market shocks? Fox, Elka...? What say you?
Printable View
When we went from our 2010 RT to our 2016 RT I noticed a big difference in the suspension. So, is it really worth it to go from stock shocks on the 2016 RT, to after market shocks? Fox, Elka...? What say you?
On my 2010 RT: I went with Elka shocks, and Ron's anti-swaybar. It transformed the bike's ability to bend into a turn... :2thumbs:
On my 2014: I only added Ron's preload adjusters, and was actaully about to buy a bar... but I traded it in! :D
Do they need some help? It completely depends upon how you like to ride. :thumbup:
on both mt 13 and 14 rt's i couldn't believe the difference with the elka shocks when i put them on
Mostly on your ryding style and how well it performs for you. Casual/normal ryding they are set up pretty well but for the more intense ryders they will lack/limit your handling in the backroad twisties. Get a good amount of ryding and miles and then see by changing parts progressively. Start with a good laser alignment, then the BajaRon sway bar and hiem joints and finally deal with the shocks be it stiffeners or replacement...:thumbup:
IMHO, the most noticeable improvement in handling from stock will be a better SWAY BAR ie from Ron at BajaRon ..... this not to say that a premium Shock Spring set-up won't be an improvement ....but imho ( :lecturef_smilie:).... 90% of the people who get them don't have ability to set them up to achieve optimum value ...... and when you put a passenger on, do you want to start the testing process all over ...... best of luck on this ..... Mike :thumbup:
I rode the hills of Arkansas and decided there was too much front end dive in the curves, so went with the Elka shocks. I even adjusted them to a fairly hard level and see a great difference. I did not feel my bike needed laser alignment as it tracks true and straight. I also did not get the sway-bar and am very happy with the performance of my 2014 RT Limited.
On my 2008 GS the Baja bar was a dramatic improvement, but I never switched shocks. Then on my 2014 RT I got a Baja bar and felt it was a minor improvement. Then after long consultations with the guys at PitBull power I bought the Elka stage 2 shocks and that was a dramatic improvement in every way and under all riding conditions. Straights, sweepers, tight corners, everything. Huge difference and well worth the money. :thumbup:
Definitely get a BajaRon bar then if you still feel you need more try his shock adjusters. You can save a ton of money that way.
:agree: :clap: :2thumbs:
This is certainly a good way to start!
guess it depends what you are looking for in your ride.
I found the baja rons sway bar and the shock adjusters worked pretty well ,without spending 700 bucks on front shocks
I agree.
I already had BajaRon's swaybar installed, but before we made our recent big trip, I installed BajaRon's spring adjusters.
Put them to the test over 6,000 miles and they made all the difference we needed in improved handling.
Well worth the money IMHO :D
I own both a 2011 and a 2014 RT. There is a noticeable difference in the plushness of the ride between the 14 and the 11. I have done nothing to upgrade the shocks on either machine. They work fine for our use. :yes:
You have to upgrade the shocks. There is a major improvement in quality. Even the metal and manufacturing is better. Stock shocks look like they came off a go-cart. PLUS.... you can adjust the spring as you see fit.
I took some picture of my install here.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ocks-Installed
I think they make a much bigger improvement than the anti sway bar, but it is necessary too! :)
Installed Ron's sway bar first and noticed a great improvement in handling. Added Elka shocks later and did not notice much improvement.
Absolutely worth it Elka all the way
I agree that the stock shock should have been a bit more but I have a slightly different question.
Which shock Fox Podium OR Elka? I think I am leaning towards the Elka since they build the shock to your weight and riding style. However, There seems to be several who went with the Fox option and I am curious what swayed you to go this route? I believe the Fox shock is about $100 more. I am no shock expert but have had after market shocks on most all my bikes and cars. The best shock I had on a bike was a Penske Shock.
Thanks in advance
:agree: I also upgraded to Elka Stage 2 front shocks. Made the front end more stable and did not dip as described above. Now the bike tracks through the curve instead of a dive, correct, dive, correct through the curve. May be my riding style, but I would recommend the upgrade if you are experiencing what Lisa and I are describing.
I decided to get the Elkas, should have them soon and looking to see how they change the ride. Thanks
i'll bet youre now as confused as i am. our '15 leans quite a bit 2 up.
my wife would rather i slow down than spend more money. i would like to try
rons spring adjusters but if the front end is raised , ive been told you need
to realign. for now, we slow down.:)
ps. i put on rons bar right after i got it.
Ron's anti-sway bar and Doc's spring stiffeners worked wonders. Thanks to the both of younojoke
do the fox shocks have spring adjusters on the bottom or just the usual
4 or 5 step preload? if anyone as some good used ones i might be interested.
does the bottom preload keep the stock height?just trying to get some more
info. between the foglamps laying here and some shocks it would be a good
time to try frunk removal.:bowdown:
The adjusters are not so much to raise the front of your Spyder as to maintain the factory height. Your Spyder is aligned at a particular front end ride height. Let's say 6" from nose to ground for sake of illustration. So 6" is always going to be the ideal position for your front suspension. There is a relatively small window of suspension travel where this perfect alignment is maintained. As you move outside of this 'Ideal' ride height. Not only will your alignment be compromised. But handling is also negatively affected.
Let's say that when you load your Spyder (luggage, rider(s), etc) you lose 2" of ride height and your ideal 6" is now down to 4". Not only are you more susceptible to pavement strikes (entering steep driveway approaches, speed bumps, etc.) But your alignment and handling are compromised. What the shock adjusters do is give you the ability to return your Spyder to the original ride height of 6". They accomplish this by increasing the spring support which give the added advantages of reducing sway and dive, essentially giving you additional ground clearance when you need it most.
Slowing down is fine and everyone should ride in a manner that suits them best. But adding something to control the additional weight and loading makes the Spyder safer, easier to handle and increases your confidence in the machine and the ride more enjoyable. Especially in those rare emergency situations.