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I know I've asked quite a few questions, but can you pull codes on a 2010 RSS by pressing the mode/start/blinker cancel buttons? When mine are pressed, I just get the options to change to kilometers and Celsius. I know it has brake codes that won't reset.
EDIT: I wound up taking it to a stealership. It was the only way to clear the codes. 2 hours and $333 later, it's doing ok. I still have to address the low rpm 1st gear transmission shudder. Onwards and upwards.
From notes:
Retrieving codes
2010 RS:
1. Turn Ignition key to "ON"
2. Push the "MODE" button to display total hours screen. Start engine and run until check engine light (or other fault indication) is displayed.
3. Press and hold "MODE" button while pushing the "High Beam Flash" button rapidly five times (within 2 seconds).
4. The active faults will be displayed or "No Active Fault Code" will be shown.
5. If you do not get a message, you didn't get the flash beams sequence done during the allotted time. Try again.
6. Jot the code-number down and check the list in the manual to determine your problem. Share this with your mechanic.
2013 ST:
While running;
Press & hold mode & setting buttons;
then push the blinker cancel.
Thank you! I got a OC 1282 (Low pressure). It won't reset (new brakes, bled the lines and the antolock unit). Next step is testing the fluid. It won't reset. This spyder had this issue when I picked it up.
Good luck. Could also just be bad sensor (loose wire?) wherever it's located.
2010 Spyder RSS multiple codes arrrggg!! Me again!!
Sooo... I only had code OC1282 (Brake pressure). I took it for a short ride and got limp mode "V55 check DPS. I pulled the codes and now I have C0051 and D2545. From my research here, it could be a power issue. I found the battery to have loose terminals. It also tested to be bad. I have replaced the battery.
1. Can I clear the codes without BUDS?
2. I was told by a dealer that the RSS models were "Electrically troubled". Is this true? They acted like they don't want to touch an RSS model.
Thanks again.
Once battery & connections good a test run should clear Inactive codes, when everything checks out. If something comes back will be active code & stay till whatever is fixed Might have an actual issue additional to the false from battery.
New battery. Went for a test ride. Got a new code. Yay me. Now we have 4.
OC1282 (brake pressure)
C0051 (steering angle)
P2545 (speed sensor)
U0122 (communication loss).
We'll have to visit a stealership now. U honestly believe this all comes from the battery (except for the brake code). Thank for all the help. You guys have been amazing.
Did you put it on a charger and top the charge off? And how long of a ride did you take it for?
Update??
I edited with an update. :)
I wound up taking it to a stealership. It was the only way to clear the codes. 2 hours and $333 later, it's doing ok. I still have to address the low rpm 1st gear transmission shudder. Onwards and upwards.
Ever had a tune up on the old girl? Plugs, wires, ect?
I know the OP probably has it figured out by now, but for other’s sake, on my 2010 RS, I also must hold the manual headlight switch on the back of the RH grip. So that + mode + flash 5 times.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bfromla